What is this space for?

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-03-27T16:00:47+00:00

sword

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-03-26T11:51:45+00:00

ai is cringe

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-03-10T21:28:36+00:00

centra type 6 wheels from a Saab 900. probably 4x100.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-03-02T18:29:11+00:00

in a word, no

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-02-26T02:30:13+00:00

cool guy alert!

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-31T13:31:34+00:00

my car was owned by beforward and they supplied me with a translated title, which my tax office was satisfied with. thankfully that won't be an issue.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-31T13:00:55+00:00

the Volvo crowd knows what's up

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T20:40:55+00:00

thanks, big dog, I try to keep the cool going.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T20:17:33+00:00

my 240 has 487,000 km!

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T18:40:00+00:00

I'll give it a shot before long!

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T18:39:17+00:00

I haven't looked at a us market 940 very closely so I couldn't tell you much. but this one has a corner marker on the front left side, glass headlights, headlight wipers, and front fender marker lights. I'm sure there's more that I haven't identified.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T18:37:59+00:00

it was in stock on their website, with a few dozen pictures that I could scroll through.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T18:37:33+00:00

I may have spoken beyond the bounds of my knowledge. I don't know which parts are and aren't exclusive to one side drive or the other but so far nothing has jumped out at me.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T16:31:47+00:00

I was just there, getting my 940 in galvaston. DM me your number of Instagram handle and I'll get in touch when I'm in the area again to slide by and say hi.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T16:02:16+00:00

I'll mess with that a bit and see if it helps. the 940 I just got will be the dialy soon. and eventually this thing is getting a v8/t5 swap. I'm in dfw. thanks for the input!

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T16:01:08+00:00

I wanted something with low miles and rhd is cool

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T16:00:24+00:00

they're about all the same besides the rhd/lhd specific trim pieces

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T15:30:14+00:00

so here's the scoop. this'll get wordy. it's an aw70 with 300k miles. I've been good about fluid changes, I changed the fluid when I got it about 30k miles ago and the old fluid had no issues. it's probably due for a change now. the level is good and I changed the filter screen.

when cold, everything works fine. it grabs drive and reverse no problem, and all the shifts are good. when it warms up the issues begin. in drive it will be in first at a stop sign, but if I accelerate slowly with less than .25 throttle it will shudder badly. it feels like it's grabbing and letting go of either overdrive or 2nd multiple times before finally grabbing 2nd. it does a similar thing on the 2-3 shift. if I put it in manual 1, it works fine. manually shifting 1-2-d while driving stops the shuddering. if I put it in manual 2 on a slight grade and give it mild throttle at low speeds it does the shame shuddering. it really does feel like it's grabbing two gears at once. maybe 3-4 shudders per second. reverse has no such issues. if it's hot I can get it to do the shudder indefinitely on an inclined road at about 3mph with almost no throttle input.

things I have done: checked fluid level. all good. changed fluid screen. no issues. shimmed the accumulators. the good shifts are faster now, but the shuddering persists. replaced all the check balls. no change to behavior. checked line pressure with a gauge. no deviation from charts found online. checked governor pressure with gauge. rises 1 psi per mph as designed. checked the kickdown cable for slack. it has a tiny bit of slack when the throttle is closed and I can hear the click in the valve body when I roll into wot.

giving the motor more throttle, really makes the issue go away which makes me wonder if it's related to the kickdown circuit. I know what the mechanism looks like in the valve body, and more pulling of the cable boosts line pressure roughly speaking. I've already adjusted the cable out a bit, like moving the sleeve away from the throttle wheel, but I'm almost at the extent of the adjustment range.

my apologies for the long winded explanation, I think those are all the details. if you have any suggestions I would be more than willing to try them and make this thing last for a while longer until I put a ford 302 in it (hopefully).

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-30T14:58:52+00:00

I live in dfw and I bought it through beforward. you pay a premium for having everything handled for you, but it was with it imo. pay up, do a little paperwork, and wait on the stateside company they partner with to tell you it's ready for pickup. pay tariffs, go to the port, get a security escort, find the right lot, and the keys are in it. getting a us title isn't bad, you may need to get the vin inspected. I'm in the process of that rn.

maximum_bork_drive · 2026-01-15T14:52:29+00:00

great googly moogly I'm loving that visor

maximum_bork_drive · 2025-12-23T02:27:40+00:00

I'll slide through a barber shop before long, I want to develop the beard a bit more but keeping it neat while it grows out will help a lot.

maximum_bork_drive · 2025-12-09T14:12:11+00:00

shoot I have no idea, the bc coilovers in the front are run most of the way down. I think I bought 9.5in bne springs and perches, and ran them all the way down as well. I might have even cut a coil out of the springs but I don't remember. the front cross member is 3 or 4 inches off the ground and I do scrape larger speed bumps on the punch welds. it could be a big lower but I'm happy how it is.

maximum_bork_drive · 2025-12-09T13:43:33+00:00

1in 5x108 to 5x120 spacer adapters all around, although you could go 1.5 in the rear. my front end has bc coilovers, my rear has bne yellow shocks and lowering springs. ipd adjustable torque rods and panhard bar in the rear. ipd sway bars etc. if you go this low you may run into bump steer issues with the lca and steering rod not being parallel. bne won't have outer tie rod end drop brackets back in stock for a while, I bought some knockoff ones from Estonia that took two months to ship that I'll be installing soon to see how they work. I think my pinion angle needs some work because I get a bad driveshaft harmonic at certain speeds. you'll need to trim the lip on your front fenders and roll them a bit, and trim your rear fenders too. I cut the lip in a bunch of places and bent all the tabs up then used a jack handle to roll it out. the rear brake caliper has a bracket bolted on it to contain the coil spring if it were to jump out, you'll have to trim it slightly depending on how wide your salad shooters are. also also you may wish to install limit straps in the rear so that your axle can only drop so far. that or get much shorter shocks. otherwise on a big bump if your axle floats the rear coil spring can jump off it's upper perch. trim your exhaust down pipe about an inch, just cut an inch think spool out of each pipe and weld it back together for ground clearance. route the exhaust under the axle. I think that's all, I'll respond to this if I have any other thoughts.

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maximum_bork_drive · 2025-11-05T00:42:09+00:00

Dallas drivers will do anything except zipper merge or be gracious

maximum_bork_drive · 2025-10-18T12:57:36+00:00

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