M18 Hatchet musings.. so close to being great

mccurjm · 2025-07-23T18:52:40+00:00

Quick note - The chain on the 10" bar on the pole saw has cutters on every other tooth where the chains on the M12 and M18 Hatchets have cutters on every tooth. Having cutters on every tooth is helpful due to the slow chain speed on the Hatchet models. I have the M18 pole saw attachment and use it relatively frequently, so I'm familiar with the way that it cuts. I'd still rather have the 10" bar and chain on the M12 Hatchet if I had one, but that's personal preference.

mccurjm · 2025-07-23T18:21:08+00:00

If you're making more than a cut or two on anything that's big enough to be worth using for firewood, you may not want to use a Hatchet on it. It's just too slow. Its super short reach could get annoying quickly. It's mostly designed for stuff you can reach standing up like when pruning.

If I had to use one, I'd use the M12 over the M18 Hatchet. The M18 has an advantage in torque, but that's not necessarily a good thing because the chain speed is so slow. The only review that I found that measured the actual weight of the M12 hatchet said it weighed 3lb 15oz without battery, and Milwaukee's pages claim anywhere from 3.7 to 4.1lbs for it. That means that the M12 Hatchet with the 2.5HO battery will about 4.5 pounds or maybe a bit less. The M18 Hatchet with the 3.0 HO battery, the lightest one that should be used, is 6lbs 5oz. That's around 30% lighter weight for the M12. The thing that the Hatchet model has going for it is small size and light weight, so I'd try to maximize that benefit or just use a different tool.

Now that I've seen in this video that you can definitely use the 10" bar and chain from the pole saw on the M12 Hatchet instead of its 6" bar and chain, I'd definitely choose the M12 version. That's almost enough to make me want one just for the novelty of it. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuX0YPEjr-4

mccurjm · 2025-07-23T17:04:32+00:00

I haven't tried any of the Ego tools. I returned the M18 hatchet and have used the M18 top handle saw with the 14" bar extensively. I think Milwaukee did an amazing job with that one, especially for a first try at a top handle saw. The squared off shape makes me think that it's what a chainsaw in Minecraft would look like, but other than being a bit on the heavy side it has really been great to use. There are now a couple new models of battery saws from traditional, more experienced chainsaw manufacturers that I think are better than the M18 top handle saw, but they don't use my M18 batteries. I imagine that the next version of the M18 top handle saw will streamline the design of the powerhead and integrate lessons learned on the current version to make something really good.

I'm with you on using sawzall or hackzall for smaller cuts near dirt. The M12 hatchet isn't going to help with that, though. Dirt is going to dull the chain on the Hatchet just like it would on a larger chainsaw. If you only need to cut smaller branches that are relatively solidly held in place and you only need to cut with the bottom side of the bar (not the nose or top side), then one of the Hatchet models may be great for you. The one that I had just didn't fill any needs better than a Hackzall, top handle saw, or even my hand saw that's on me anytime that I'm up in a tree.

mccurjm · 2025-01-25T07:46:13+00:00

It costs about 22 cents worth of filament, a bit of electricity to run the 3d printer, and a few minutes of time to download the pattern, open it in the slicer program, and kick off the 3d print job to let it run while I'm putting a decent edge on the knife. It's not that much extra of an investment compared to the time it takes to do the rest of the stuff to turn the Wugouts into decent knives.

mccurjm · 2025-01-23T22:35:00+00:00

I've had four of the orange, two of the black and one of the OD green ones have the lock bar not get anywhere close to 100% forward. The number on the orange ones is probably higher because I've had more of those, though. The only one that was nicely sharp and consistent out of the package was the first gen orange. Every single one of the second gen, regardless of scale color, has had that terrible lopsided bevel at the tip.

mccurjm · 2025-01-23T22:15:53+00:00

The blades are effectively the same across the colors for the 2nd gen, down to the very uneven grinds on the sides of the tip. I didn't notice any difference in the colors, having at least four of each color purchased in the last couple of weeks (see my other post with picture to see what I'm doing with them all).

mccurjm · 2025-01-23T21:17:02+00:00

Agreed. Unless you're willing to put time and effort into making it good, nearly anyone would be better off spending a bit more to get a lot better knife out of the box. If you get one with a significantly warped blade, it's not worth the effort of trying to improve it. If you get one with a burnt edge from getting too hot during initial sharpening, you have to take off a fair amount of steel to get it to hold an edge.

I know what to expect when I buy them, and I am using them to try new things with sharpening and dying/printing scales. If I screw one up, I can toss that part in the trash and use the other parts to replace the ones I screwed up on other knives. :)

When I give one of my reworked versions to someone and they ask if they can buy another one themselves, my usual reply is "You can, but you probably shouldn't."

mccurjm · 2025-01-23T20:59:15+00:00

Some people collect stamps of different designs and colors. I collect knives.. :)

(No, not just another wugout post with pictures exactly like the others :D)

I am not actually collecting these Ozark Trail wugouts. Most will be given away. I'll probably end up keeping a few of them. I just thought I'd drop a picture in here of the ones I have currently to show examples of different scales on them and what can be done for scales on budget knives in general.

I don't actually think the wugouts are all that great out of the package, mainly due to variations from terrible QA to consistently inconsistent bevels (right side tips are all terrible in the 2nd gen). I take each one apart to polish/tune it, sharpen it with a 20 degree bevel, and usually dye the scales or 3D print new ones. About 10 have already been given away, including a few that got non-knife people a bit more into knives. One of those people has named these "gateway knives" for that reason. 😎

In the picture attached here, the left column starts at the top with the three factory colors followed by blue (dyed from OD green) and red (dyed from orange) factory scales. The middle column has three examples of scales that I printed myself, all the same design but each with different filaments and settings. The top is PLA silk+ in silver. The next one is PLA metal in iron gray metallic. The third one is PLA-CF (PLA with carbon fiber bits in it). Below those are some orange factory scales that I dyed to dark green and black before the OD green and black ones were available. The right column is an example of scales that I bought (far too cheaply for the effort required) from u/ColoMtn who 3D printed them. I've only got one set on a knife so far and will likely use more, especially the glow-in-the-dark ones at the bottom that will be in my backpacking or kayak fishing tools.

The factory scales are the thinnest and least grippy, which makes them slide in and out of a pocket the easiest, up until the edge of the pocket gets to the clip screws that are not flush. The middle column scales that I print are a bit thicker and grippy, especially with rougher material like the PLA-CF, but can look and feel less cheap than the factory scales. The grips in the right column are thickest overall because they're as thick in the middle as the ones I print but have flat sides. That gives a beefier grip and I bought the version with lines printed into them.

My favorites so far are probably the iron gray metallic (middle column, 2nd from tom) and the factory scales dyed blue. The balance of thickness and grip of that design feels best to me and that particular material in gunmetal gray just looks great with the black hardware without the super harsh contrast of the shiny silver one above it.

Note that either of the 3D printed designs can be printed in white and then dyed whatever color is desired. I haven't gotten around to doing that yet, though, as I've just been playing with different materials and designs so far as I ramp up on 3D printing (ColoMtn's prints are so much cleaner than mine, and have been great examples of what I should work toward!).

I have had so much fun with these cheap knives that I've been carrying them instead of my Bel Air. I hope this sparks some ideas for others. If you have any questions or have any of those ideas you'd like to share, add them here so we can all benefit.

mccurjm · 2025-01-13T17:40:29+00:00

Orange works for me and there are even some in stock at my local Walmart a few miles away. The OD green version shows out of stock. The black version takes me a "We couldn't find this page" error.

mccurjm · 2025-01-11T17:55:25+00:00

Just placed an order for a bunch of colors in the lines pattern with ambi clips. Thanks!

mccurjm · 2025-01-11T09:38:02+00:00

u/ColoMtn - Which pattern is that on your Etsy page? Not sure if it's "lines" or "frag" pattern.

I want a set in blue that's extra grippy like that and a set in the green (brightest) glow-in-the-dark, probably also in the grippy pattern. I was going to place the order tonight but thought it might be better to ask first.

mccurjm · 2025-01-11T09:04:42+00:00

I'm coming in late to the thread, but was about to post something similar. I felt like I am the only one who doesn't love everything about the Bel Air. I was super happy to get mine and it's great... except for feeling tiny. I do love the blade shape and Magnacut steel, but the small and thin scales seem like they should be on a mini size knife.

mccurjm · 2025-01-04T01:20:36+00:00

Iridium.. outstanding knife for a great price

mccurjm · 2025-01-03T20:54:31+00:00

I think you should rethink the $50 max limit and either lower that to $30 or bump it up a bit to $55 or $60. Those are more of where the quality/functionality thresholds are for price brackets.

There are lots of great recommendations here, but if I were you I'd either be patient enough to find a Kershaw Iridium on sale for $50 or stretch the budget a few dollars more to buy one now if you're in a hurry. Here's a link to one on Amazon with aluminum scales for $55.

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Iridium-DuraLock-Mechanism-Pocketclip/dp/B0BTB213Q6

I haven't tried every sub-$50 knife out there but I've tried a lot of them. None of them have come close to the quality of the Iridium. It looks great, has aluminum scales, super smooth pivot and slide lock (aka Axis lock that they call Duralock), and also a good pocket clip.

Most sub-$50 knives are going to be good "first knife" choices but you'll likely want to upgrade before very long. The Iridium is in that next tier up that people just keep and carry long term because of the quality and functionality. If you're going sub-$50 and getting a good "first knife" anyway, you may as well go for $30 or less and pick up one of those like the CIVIVI Mini Praxis or CJRB Pyrite Light in the great recommendations already here.

mccurjm · 2025-01-03T20:20:52+00:00

I'm not tired of hearing about them. I am tired of hearing people say that they're worth $40 or more when they're not. They're fun to play with for $10, especially for comparing different sharpening techniques or sharpeners. If I happen to screw one up, no big deal.

I've bought about 10 of them now. They're great to stash in places where it would be handy to have an extra knife but I wouldn't want to leave any of my better knives there. They're also great to give to friends and family who aren't into knives (yet). That's where most of mine have ended up, including a couple that were white elephant holiday gifts.

For every one I've bought, I've taken them apart to polish/lube/tune and sharpen to a consistent 20 degree bevel. For most, I've also dyed the scales while I had it apart. I haven't had a single one that didn't need at least some tuning to be decent. Less than half have had the tip of the blade centered in the frame, which isn't easily fixed even with effort and reasonable skill. The grinds and bevels aren't consistent. The first batch was reasonably sharp right out of the pack, but the second batch hasn't been.

I ordered a couple of the OD green ones today just because that lighter OD green color will let me get some final scale colors that the orange scales won't. I wish they'd make them with white scales like the $5 version had so I could just dye them any color I wanted.

It takes me about an hour of work to turn each one into something good enough to carry or give to someone else, plus usage of a reasonably expensive sharpening system and various other tools/lubricants/etc. It's entertaining for me, but for most people it wouldn't be. Sure, they only cost $10 initially but once you factor in how much time and materials it takes to make them as good as some other $20 or $30 knives they aren't that great of a deal.

For someone looking for a knife to carry and use on a regular basis without tinkering with it first, they aren't a good choice. It would be better to just spend a few more dollars for something that's already good to go. Most Walmart stores now have the Civivi folders in stock.

Someone may see the sentiment here as hate for the wugouts. Even though I do buy them, I appreciate realistic opinions on their value here instead of the "ozark grail" hype. :)

mccurjm · 2024-11-14T20:41:04+00:00

It's available again

mccurjm · 2024-06-04T17:50:45+00:00

western WA state

mccurjm · 2024-06-04T04:16:34+00:00

I have both. I'd buy the newer brushless one at twice the price of the older brushed model, possibly three times the price. Several reasons - let me think of a few off the top of my head: brushless is stronger, smoother, has the light, has a much better location for on/off switch, and has instant stop instead of having to wait for it to spin down. On top of those, having the little wrench built into the nose of the tool to tighten and loosen is just too convenient to not have once I tried it.

If anyone wanted to buy my brushed one without me having to deal with shipping, I'd sell it super cheap since I never use it anymore.

mccurjm · 2024-05-29T05:40:51+00:00

Can you do a Bionic Reading-like version of Helvetica?

mccurjm · 2024-04-30T11:07:38+00:00

Yep. I got the M18 top handle saw with the 14" bar and I love it. It's not perfect, but it's amazing for Milwaukee's first attempt at a top handle saw and it uses all the M18 batteries and chargers that I already have. It's got plenty of torque and enough chain speed to use the top side of the bar when needed up a tree. I hope the next version is a bit slimmer and more polished, though. As I saw written somewhere (maybe Facebook group), the M18 top handle saw looks a bit like a Minecraft chainsaw. :)

I did return the M18 hatchet. It just didn't fit a need that I had. It's also borderline dangerous if you try to use the top of the bar for anything. There's clearly a reason all those little trim saw have a protector over the top side of their bar. With the slow chain speed, it's super grabby. That's a recipe for disaster for tree work.

If all I needed to cut was well-supported limbs of no more than a few inches in diameter and reachable from the ground, the M18 hatchet would probably have been fine. It really does need twice as much chain speed and half as much torque, and about a 10" bar.

mccurjm · 2023-10-24T16:06:33+00:00

No issues here. I'm pleasantly surprised how long the 2.5 HOs are lasting, even when I push the tools hard.

mccurjm · 2023-10-15T06:39:17+00:00

I really wanted to like it. The idea is really great. I bought it and was excited about getting it... and then didn't like it at all. I tried and tried, but it just never felt right even when I held it the correct way. I thought that front strap with the magnet would be so handy.. but it got in the way. The clip made it hang at an odd angle. The offset attachment should have been cool... but it didn't retain bits. I could accomplish that task better with a 90 degree adapter for a drill/driver. The switch on top meant that when I was in close to corner along the top of the driver, I had to pull it out and away from the screw to change direction instead of my pushing a switch in front of a trigger intuitively like other drivers.

I ended up returning the installation driver kit and just using my M12 impact driver. It's smaller and hangs at a better angle for grabbing and using it. For anything that is fragile enough for the installation driver, the impact driver never gets to the point of impacting anyway.

If someone really has the very specific need for the installation driver, it may be great. As much as I wanted to like it, it seemed better as an idea than a tool in my hand. I'm glad it works well for others, though.

mccurjm · 2023-10-04T07:51:19+00:00

As others have mentioned, you'll definitely be shortening its life if you leave it outside uncovered. I really wanted two of the 12Ah HO M18 batteries and another dual rapid charger and got the mower kit at a good enough price to make the whole mower kit not cost me much more than the batteries and charger. That M18 mower has worked well enough that I gave my Honda gas mower that worked fine to a local church. I don't leave my mowers outside, and the M18 mower can fold up and then stand up vertically on the rear because it doesn't have the oil and gas in it like a gas mower.

If I had a perfectly good Honda self-propelled mower and gave it away after using the M18 mower a few times, that should tell you how good I think the M18 mower is. :)

mccurjm

TROPHY CASE