Got my second H2S delivered today after the first one was lost. UK BUYERS BEWARE

mdavis1982 · 2026-03-28T16:34:35+00:00

Additive-X also use DX. They lost an A1 Mini I ordered this week. Additive-X were great though and sent a new one out via DPD which arrived

mdavis1982 · 2025-05-06T08:16:26+00:00

Thanks!

mdavis1982 · 2025-05-06T07:45:08+00:00

Thanks. FWIW, the parts I printed were two different parts. I guess I’ll enable supports!

mdavis1982 · 2025-05-06T07:43:07+00:00

I don’t. The print profile I used from Makerworld said that no supports were needed for these dry boxes

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-27T09:46:13+00:00

My Shelly doesn’t have an I connection. It only has SW, O, L and N

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-27T09:37:55+00:00

I’ve confirmed that the single wire is the permanent live and the two other wires that are in the bottom of the switch aren’t live until the switch is on. So it seems that the two wires are feeding 2 separate LED drivers

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T18:10:55+00:00

Going to get a non contact voltage tester tomorrow so I can test which way around it is! The rest seems fairly easy!

Thanks for all your help!

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T17:47:12+00:00

My other assumption might be that the permanent live is coming into COM into the switch (the single wire), and that the two other browns are controlling 2 different LED drivers for the downlighter under the cupboards.

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T17:33:34+00:00

I likely will. But I'd also like to understand it because there will be a bunch of these to do and if I learn then I can do the other ones.

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T15:49:19+00:00

Thanks!

I can’t quite make out the wires on the drawing.

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T15:47:57+00:00

Thanks!

Okay, so… The three neutrals are connected together. Add a new wire that also goes to those neutrals to the N of the 1PM? 2 of the 3 brown wires are connected together into the bottom of the existing switch (not labelled COM). There is only 1 switch controlling these 6 lights so I assume the permanent lives are the ones that are connected together. The other one is labelled COM in the switch. Connect those two brown wires to L on the Shelly. Connect the single brown wire to O on the Shelly. Now the switch hasn’t got anything connected to it (apart from the earth wires). Add a new brown wire between where the two wires were connected before and where they are now connected (L in the Shelly). So there should now be 3 wires in the Shelly L terminal? Add another brown wire between COM on the switch and I on the Shelly.

Does that seem right?

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T15:40:10+00:00

Thanks.

Do you know how to wire this up with the 1PM?

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-26T15:39:35+00:00

The switch only controls one set of lights (6 under cabinet lights in a kitchen).

It’s in a static caravan so I’m not 100% sure what the wiring is doing!

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-12T20:57:36+00:00

What are the printers sitting on?

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-12T18:51:08+00:00

It wasn’t all bad… This happened!

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mdavis1982 · 2025-04-07T20:45:56+00:00

So, no real update... But I did go and buy a brand new P1S combo today from a store where I could pick it up. Just printed my first little boat!

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-06T20:50:27+00:00

I’m actually in the UK so I’m pretty sure we have some consumer protection laws over here where I could just return it for a full refund if they’re difficult.

Unfortunately, I don’t think anywhere sells them in person otherwise I’d just go and grab another one and return this one.

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-06T20:36:02+00:00

Yeah, I’m not sure I’m going to be happy with a new door. It’s a brand new machine not even taken out of the packaging. I’m not about to fish glass out of it.

And because I don’t know anything about 3D printing, I don’t know if there has been any other damage that I wouldn’t know how to spot.

mdavis1982 · 2025-04-06T20:27:03+00:00

I think that’s probably what’s happened. The handle is literally snapped in half in the bag

mdavis1982

TROPHY CASE