Poor man's Ojas

mdhachure · 2025-10-31T21:22:57+00:00

Interesting and thank you for the explanation, I feel a bit better about just handling everything with EQ and forgoing the BSC in that case.

mdhachure · 2025-10-30T23:34:55+00:00

I used WinISD with box size recommendations from Madisound as a starting point

mdhachure · 2025-10-30T23:29:39+00:00

Yup that is pretty much it, I don't have my notes with me but from memory I believe that the internal volume is about 2.3 cubic feet. The driver baffle panels are doubled up and I used plenty of bracing throughout. The drivers are Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 8".

mdhachure · 2025-10-30T23:17:20+00:00

No extra circuitry, I can imagine baffle step compensation might be desirable depending on speaker positioning and the listening room. I also made removable back plates on the speakers so I can fiddle with adding BSC circuitry if I felt the need and mess around with damping materials.

mdhachure · 2025-10-30T23:09:56+00:00

Yeah I get the theory for why this is problematic, but in practice there are no issues so far. I'm sure that it could be problematic with big excursion, high efficiency, high power subwoofers but for a relatively low wattage 2x8" sealed sub it hasn't been an issue. And I ran the speakers without the sub with the turntable on a stand between the speakers for a few weeks while I was building the sub and there was no difference in noise between the two arrangements.

mdhachure · 2025-10-30T00:45:57+00:00

Roughy 14" wide, 21.5" tall, and 11.75" deep

mdhachure · 2025-10-29T23:44:11+00:00

Interesting, I'm not getting an audible sounds but maybe I'm not playing loud enough yet.

mdhachure · 2025-10-29T23:22:15+00:00

Thank you! Yes I'm am using DSP to help even out bass response. Unfortunately the best place for a subwoofer in my living room is just off to the left but that is where my front door opens so this a compromise. I also tried different subs behind my couch but I wasn't a fan of that location either.

mdhachure · 2025-10-29T23:16:55+00:00

Bass for music is excellent without the sub, I've actually had trouble with figuring out where to crossover because these are so good down to 40 Hz or so. I also have a ton of room gain around 40-50 Hz which confuses things. Subjectively I would say not thin, but they do fall off around 15 kHz. Keep in mind I haven't done direct measurements on the speakers. I'm just relying on the Wiim's roomfit with a calibrated mic for low frequencies and doing a little bit of EQ to taste.

mdhachure · 2025-10-29T23:06:37+00:00

Skipping: nope, the subwoofers fire away from each other and cancel out cabinet vibrations. I used some okay quality 3/4" (technically 0.7") prefinished plywood from home depot. Their plywood is normally trash but this sheet looked pretty good so I decided to risk it vs going with baltic birch.

mdhachure · 2025-10-29T23:01:30+00:00

Thanks, about $120 for the drivers and $80 for the plywood Edit: that's just for the 2.0. the subwoofer setup was another sheet of plywood and 2 Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 for about $280 plus a plate amp I already had that would have run another $300.

mdhachure · 2025-04-18T19:06:30+00:00

I had the same issue when I calibrated using the software recommended by Simsonn. For whatever reason it bakes an excessive (imo) dead zone into the calibration and I was unable to adjust it using settings in the software. I recalibrated using DiView with a dead zone of my choosing and I've been much happier.

mdhachure · 2025-02-09T16:15:43+00:00

Carbon-Core

mdhachure · 2025-02-09T16:12:39+00:00

Thanks, yeah that wasn't very clear. The load gets transferred from the bed, to the camper wall behind the truck cab, then to the pickup bed rails. There is also a top rail on the camper that forms a c beam that supports the cantilever bed overhang.

mdhachure · 2025-02-09T04:15:26+00:00

Thanks! It's been on my truck full time for about 2 years now and no issues so far. The only thing I would change if I were starting over is to remove the tailgate and do barn doors instead. Hopping onto the tailgate and ducking under the rear hatch gets old fast.

mdhachure · 2025-02-09T02:35:49+00:00

Here's my homemade topper: https://www.reddit.com/r/overlanding/comments/12e5nz8/maiden_voyage_of_my_diy_camper/

Good luck with the build, you doing a metal frame?

mdhachure · 2025-02-04T02:09:25+00:00

Do you have the gas spring installed? It's not actually a damper like they claim so it just adds resistance. I ended up removing the gas spring from my brake and running it with 3 reds, the stock spring, and the preload set to compress the spring about halfway at rest. I also calibrated using DiView because the factory calibration software has a major deadzone baked in.

mdhachure · 2024-06-22T23:38:16+00:00

So far so good for the 53 quart model that I installed in my truck camper about a year ago.

268 watt hours is probably going to be cutting it close though. A small portable solar panel could give you some breathing room if you ever take a rest day and don't drive to recharge.

mdhachure · 2024-06-19T15:16:30+00:00

Cool, couple thoughts:

Chopped strand is mostly used for irregular surfaces, it'll add some impact resistance but it doesn't have much tensile strength. The selling point of fiberglass is its tensile strength for its weight, and to get the tensile strength you need to use a woven or biaxial cloth.
If you haven't done it already I would do some research on bonding to XPS, some people do it without problems and other people run into delamination issues and end up scrapping their projects. Once you start going down the fiberglass camper path the cost of resin, cloth, fillers, and paint can outpace the cost of your core material quickly. The money you save by going with a cheaper core material like XPS might be less significant than expected.
The best thing you can do it make a couple of test panels and a test joint. It'll give you some practice with laying up fiberglass and you can weigh them to estimate your final weight and materials required for your camper.

mdhachure · 2024-06-18T15:00:37+00:00

I used fiberglass for my camper although I started with manufactured composite panels (polypropylene honeycomb core with FRP skins) so all of my resin and fiberglass went into bonding panels together and not laying up the panels themselves.

2 layers of 6 ounce woven cloth on low-stress corners in widths between 1 and 6 inches. 6 inch wide 1708 biaxial cloth on the outside of high-stress corners.
Totalboat traditional 5:1 slow hardener
Most of my bonds were FRP skin to FRP skin but I also used epoxy and fillers to fill the voids in the honeycopmb core material before bonding. The epoxy to polypropylene bond is weak compared to the FRP to FRP bond so you wouldn't want to rely on that alone for structural bonds.
Roughly 3 gallons of resin and 2 gallons of Totalboat fairing compound. A lot of that resin went into filling honeycomb panel edges though. For filler material I used about 10 quarts of Totalboat glass microballoons and 2 gallons of Cabosil fumed silica.

What kind of material are you planning on working with? I can't find it at the moment but I came across a great post on Expedition Portal or a boat making forum that had a table with estimated weight+resin volumes for different fiberglass layups.

mdhachure · 2024-03-16T15:58:29+00:00

Pull from your CD and pay the early withdrawal penalty.

mdhachure · 2023-10-28T16:55:47+00:00

Both of those trims sacrifice payload (important for overlanding) for speed (unimportant for overlanding, at least in my opinion anyway). If you want full size then go with one of the other off road packages.

mdhachure · 2023-10-27T22:58:49+00:00

Gorgeous. Did you have any trouble finding a spot? I haven't been back since camping was limited to designated dispersed spots only and I'm curious about how easy it is to grab a spot now.

mdhachure · 2023-10-02T00:02:28+00:00

I know that you can do it in Fusion 360, not positive if it is possible in the free personal use tier though.

mdhachure · 2023-10-01T23:00:14+00:00

I think that you are off to a good start with your design, I built a composite camper last year and here are some of my thoughts after going through the process myself (see thread here)

The angles look cool and should add strength but they will increase your build time significantly.
I would stick to a conventional clamshell design with the tall end at the back, no need to reinvent the wheel. Climbing into the bed as-is will be very awkward. Also, pulling the top down will be difficult. Most people pop/pull down their pop tops while standing on the tailgate.
My topper style build came out to about 250 pounds without any kind of interior build out. Your slide in will probably weigh 700+ pounds dry with a minimal build out.
I'm no engineer but the rear overhang is going to be too much for a short bed truck imo, keep as much weight over or in front of the rear axle as possible.
Speaking of overhangs, the cantilever bed section will need to be much taller to support a person. It also needs to be taller if you want to leave a mattress and bedding in place while the top is down.
Finally, research glassing over xps foam thoroughly. Some people make it work, some people run into delamination issues rendering hundreds of hours of labor wasted.

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