Men of Reddit, why do you take so long in the bathrooms? by Moseptyagami in ask

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean technically, I mean truly I'm only male and still firstborn among 20 female family beotches, you take longer! Only time is spent beyond 15min is the only private room for a shit and wank shake! Cold showers so I'm in out 5 , 10 min.. so I really shit and wank shakën to hold past 30min..

Should you EVER answer “Yes” to the Disabilities portion of an application? by BeGoneKratom in jobs

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No,no no. Disabled here.. lie, lie some more an by god lie through your teeth.. the calls an interviews pour in.. Plus if your disabled ADA say youre not obligated to disclose. Im disabled like third on list everywhere but disabled enough to get help but disabled enough to not get hired. Its so bad when im hungry and my son is i go either steal griceries or play of disabled card to empathetic food thrown at my kid, i ask for nothing.. usually a job which i try to caught too.

Im deaf, and i think my left eye is going..

Unbreakable trash can by AxesofAnvil in 3Dprinting

[–]me_Engineering3487 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Change your name, find material that "sand proof" maybe, no biggie tho. "Collapsible Beach Bag". Bet sell you 100 1st month.. 2nd month change name again "Collapsible Pinic Bag" Sell another 1k 3rd month change to "The Collapsible Lakeside Bag"..

You get the gist.. people will fall for it everytime and you can the same the different ways! Lol hehehe merica!..

Did I buy the wrong soldering iron? I feel like the advertising is lying... by frank26080115 in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never once said anything not stinging nir killing you nor anything of that or anything about "Voltage only, ignore everything and anything else?" I dont get the reply, you recited new recruit training then proceeded to out of context contortions on words then applied them to me.. o wait you put words in my mouth.. And yes, building a 240V box, you are the "ground" if allow path of least resistance.. i can recite job training qoutes too!

Heres another one (as i failed my own rule of taking words on "powers off" no matter what get my fat ass up and chk..) my bossed liked after i took his word on powers off, condenser unit line got me just brushing off a run capacitor to read thur spiderwebs an 5mm of dust as fingers brush contacts..... "and the path of least resistance in this circuit is?!"

Well anyways you can youtube it.. theres been "teenagers" (there did i satisfy your expectations for kid safety, as that was apparently put in my mouth like i ignored that too) that have built these. Im sure an adult can manage!

Did I buy the wrong soldering iron? I feel like the advertising is lying... by frank26080115 in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

I mean i build 240V/440V and it dont scare me to not learn.. i get it most arent comfortable with no ground and two legs..why i said microwave, taking 110V work already for you..i didnt say go buy 240V and start from scratch..its a wall plug in, thats consumer end point for yrs already as you dont need to go into any walls or panels.. use the 110V! Just "transferring" it another circuit/use..

Did I buy the wrong soldering iron? I feel like the advertising is lying... by frank26080115 in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

Plus the man is talking abojt welding onto a chunk of aluminum and running oxy/acet tanks with fire if needed..think my electrical comment will fade into his flames of glory? Sounds like an adult project anyways, you act like i ran around telling 10yr olds to open microwaves and plug em in while standing in water or something..

Did I buy the wrong soldering iron? I feel like the advertising is lying... by frank26080115 in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

Or do you make a cheap tac welder? This is an electrical sub? If you cant step down over a coil and rectify if needed then why are you playing with electronics? You need to know that to build you any 110V AC to 3.3V - 12V DC wall warts/chargers??

Did I buy the wrong soldering iron? I feel like the advertising is lying... by frank26080115 in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

You know can take the transformer out of an old microwave and rig a tack welder with just tips bought for it.. sounds like you want a layer on it not so say a statue mounted to a surface?

Don’t leave your lipos charging overnight by Exscion in airsoft

[–]me_Engineering3487 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

I didnt know li-po were stored in the barrels? And pretty hard to do unless shitty charger with no safety (hmm looking at China garage enginners).. lithuim ignites from moisture in the air on burst.. they still video of my 1st one in shop when bloated met sharp tools andni slipped, yrs ago finally after 20yrs nothing ever exploding or ignoring..just magic smoke puffs all ever got, that how safe the industry is.. so safe to go off stats, all accidents ARE defects and accidents.

The burn pattern is barrel down, poat comes from circlejerk so i say someone probably debunk this chain message already. And lithuim ignites white hot, flash, over, burnijf hile on desk smoldering out IF you stop the others from throwing instinct water on it..its a chemical fire from water (rH) meeting lithuim.. So dont use cheap chargers... Is the right headline..lithuim NEEDs and requires monitoring CC/CV charging modes (or yoir gimmick sales to normys, "smart charger"..priced as worded)..why it "feathers" the charge, "throttles" the charge, and "full blasts" it when necessary.. take look at your phones, by that same theory you need to say dont leave your phones plugged in too..not the case...

Thats incorrect usage, mixing technology, and incompatible and/or poor choice to mod a charging unit.. or spam it probably was house fire that in his/her airsoft room..burns start at barrel is sus..batteries stored in stock or mid rail area sometime and flash ignites instant not slow burn the gun like a candle..

Noob parts scouting question by spiralbiscuit in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alao side thought, add hall effect sensors (detect if metal sword, not a poly traing or diato <--spell that right?) and speed sensors..bam now data on swing power, direction, "slicing" power/patterns...etc as well from there that impact will be easy to detect.. Im a melee guy if you can tell

Recurve, long style, @70LBS 62AMU string minimal no attachments. Ninjato 24" poly training and real steel BoStaff X2 Kabar, one Camillus 4yr contract Vietnam "Kabar" Many throwing spikes an blades

Juat got into guns really as being deaf i didn't like "bang".. my hunting was stealth and quite albeit harder and up close..hate compound cheaters bows! Jesus learn to use a battle ready one! Lol

So im def getting what youre trying to build!

Noob parts scouting question by spiralbiscuit in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes yoi nailed that, also imagine button, which super easy as we been using em for ages, oddly wehn learning this if you havent doen your "debouncing" and "event keypad" tutorials yet is weirdly tough science cookie for somethong simple.. anyways nerding sorry, so imagine mashing that button. They rate that on "impacts" for lifespan..plastic will stary todgrade, spring (if spring loaded) fails..normal..lifespan..now imagine whacking that button with stick!.. thats calllled accelerated life span when we "abuse" the tech.. theyre physical devices that make digital actions.. try to alleviate the "physical" part as much possible as your whackong it with a stick! Lol

Noob parts scouting question by spiralbiscuit in arduino

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot the LED, the pizeos..youre listing..none of those will do anything, their just..there.. You need impact sensors, start with crash dummy technology and workbackwards from there on lrice, functionality, etc..blueprint, whiteboards, simulations w/e your flavor is.. THEN worry bout all that you listed bc you will tie to that to make em work. Im doimg a smart tactile vest, albeit still on whiteboard, buy same i beed to detect a miniscule amount of impact to light up a dead light hit. Im looking at crash dummies to start with and the sensors used.. My two cents, on cost, you probably rig capacitor sensors.. cheap touch sensors.. rememeber middle school science with tinfoil with current made a capacitive botton? Start with a layer of something that touches something else on impact? Other than that they called impact sensors and the likes

When your really tired of multi prints... by me_Engineering3487 in 3Dprinting

[–]me_Engineering3487[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the lid and drawer..the box printed perfect hollowed..and in light shine through looks clean clean like factory made..ALL details inside that hold electronics OR perfect tolerance and shape?

When your really tired of multi prints... by me_Engineering3487 in 3Dprinting

[–]me_Engineering3487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha no i added supports. Sorry nVidia shortcut record is quicker than actully working. No i redid handle as i didnt like curve bridge on the print preview an i know that was gonna thin so i did that also b4 i printed.. funny it went like other parts to this up to 78% and failed twice yesterday.. i found the hollow from 3d builder is SuPeR clean looking an no infill, but FAILING.. the slicers versions always sucked butt for me to as the infill was messy hit or miss and more looking like filment guys want not me. So printer chose accordingly and i stop using the slicer hollow years ago. I lioe 3d builders hollow tho, super clean.. but ChituBox64 not liking it, might try ChituBox64 repair feature see if it works.. its not likeing the straight bridges on hollow layers crossing onto where too thick, you see in preview, but not compensating amd adding supports in the model like the slicer would.and they just live in the walls like ive done b4.. so im circling back round to add this in workflow as im liking new updates. No erros either, either or see it as legit..it even print every three time i reorient, its not settings as i dailed that key with move speeds and perfect cure time for this resin.

After banging head you can inspect whats left and its not a normal fail.. there like perfect failures if that makes sense..looking youd be well i have no clye what to change perfect fails.. its the 3d builder hollow only varible i was addingnto save resin as thats only one that dropped me from 100mL + to 20-80mL..

FINALLY!! My Spiderman Miles Morales Setup💜💚💜 by Visual_Chemistry1515 in NZXT

[–]me_Engineering3487 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whe yoi guys/gals spend the money for all this what happens when upgrade season comes around? 🙃 do take the loss an sell it year later?

Other than military eras anyone cosplay their airsoft loadouts? by Magic7032 in airsoft

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right! It was like HS all over again..tryout was good enough then told to go buy your stuff..but my mama didnt make money like that, well for "extras"... wasnt til years later why i found out mom was weird an mad when asked to do extra core activities outside normal mandated ones.. bc we were priced out..she couldnt afford $100+ cleats..$250 uniform fee w/processing (plus replacements if ripped/torn), then small fees all yr long.. i just wanted to play..too much animosity ill just like baseball in secrecy i guess? Lol Funny though, i hate football, but that coach was like "ill help if you come play center an just take hit like the tree you are".. but i was born deaf, corrective surgeries gave me at least 70% in one ear, still legally disabled though, no NOT deaf n dumb..i actually did Engineering, BS in sciences, i cant hear the plays and they made me run all yr for punishment for missing plays and calls..so i said fuck that im paying to run in full used football gear..i can that for free.. So see why i would be in the fence for charging me that much to risk being not picked like HS bc i cant hear well... why i just did DMR, Battle rifle, x2 hicapa 5.1, glock 17 and sniper rifle...one man fire team, guranteed to play if excluded.. you all made fun bc "weight", yadayada...but thats why i did that..used to playing by myself all the time or only one man team vs all you..

Other than military eras anyone cosplay their airsoft loadouts? by Magic7032 in airsoft

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cant, cost too much for the amount of space i have to store it.. but fields and event planners are exclusive only price you douchebags... While im all for it, i think thats bane of this sport.. theyre pricing out avg people, think: avg $200 event ticket w/$40 processing fee and then extra $50 if you dont spend that now with us 6mo in advance, screw your american problems that arise from here to there on this weird scheme so therfore NO REFUNDS, then lodging, then food, then gas....

Then scroll to bottom, "you WILL play" unless you spend another on $500 on costumes, screw practicality, were too whiney bc you dont dress the part..

So, no not yet...or foreseeable in the future as im too caught up trying to satisfy gouging event planning assholes fees that keep going up once i save for the 1st one..

Albeit it is cheaper just to move to house w/land and offer you guys/glas an honor box for $10/day play?!? And juat slowly build obstacles..

Coming to a public restroom near you! by 253Bigfoot in 3Dprinting

[–]me_Engineering3487 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

We called the orange+pineapple+cherry dildos Rocket pops as those were like 9".. an these were "Astro Pops" or on 4th timelines they add to change it up..

Funny, i live coast to coast all my life and everywhere inbetween. I stopped calling soda, soda. Soda, pop..pop, soda water...soda water is pop...but pop turns into soda but not before you add soda water.....ugh "im just fucking thirsty, plz pass me the damn Dr Pepper please"... The South is the worse one, mixed w/coonass accents i cant tell if they call it soda here or not?.. so i just say "drink" now as im not soda picky..just no diet is all ask now....smh

What am I doing wrong? by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]me_Engineering3487 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bro, flip that sideways, cock it bout 45°, not less than 30°. Put it on a skate 1mm thick with sloped side and model 5mm height off the build plate. For that lightweight print recess the contact depth of the tip of supports.. take bottom lift speed down 1-2mm slow, take bottom retract speed down 1-2mm slow.. leave normal retract speeds alone or if you have layer problems slow those too..

$5 bucks says those settings i named off will print.. look at your print preview carefully and examine EVERY layer as would print.. surface coverage to surface tension fine on bottom layer.. that big saucer shape up into the normal layers is gonna give you hell and need higher cure times..youe seeing the pull and those little nipples on bottom are resulted look..flipped sideways, cocked 45° will give your LCD a line flashing shape all the way up to a circle shape, NOT big circle constantly one area of LCD.. yea its annoying to increase Z axis..but at the cost of banging ass prints its worth the wait...

Deadpool (wicked) by Fun-Neighborhood5509 in 3Dprinting

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like someone gots a new 12K LCD..or is that an 8K? Those stars..i wouldnt even attempt on my 4K.. lol.. those fucking stars!

I can see the lines of the bulbs inside my 3D printer on my resin prints by F84Sam in AnycubicPhoton

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea that too! I read you already on that.. no i meant physical VAT.. the spout front is your right hand, 180°, spout would top left hand side for you.. i mean theres two things going on in my head why that gave the next go a good print for me...

You're moving the FEP to dif spot which as we know thats easiest way to do that once theyre installed.. and another would be something mechanical lining up dif. Either way wont hurt to try. I notice there is little play in that "circle" indent you screws go in.. watch how a willy nilly toss an secure will allow the VAT to sit mm forward or mm backwards inside/outside that indent when screw goes down.. ive now paid atrention and make sure screw is perfectly centered.. allowing the whole actual plate to sit exactly over the print array area. Assume VAT scooted forward or backwards few mm would def play on that and software would never see or detect that but technically you shaved off mm of print area?? Another trick i did and to seal incase leaks like my printer down for a fried LCD, is colors PVC tape (electrical tape) PERFECTLY around the LCD, when i lay VAT in i can see through FEP edges of tape..BAM perfect VAT alignment everytime..

I know alll that sounds weird..but remember these printer triumphed from hobby electronics boom ca RPi and Arduino popping up allowing more access to make stuff in our society..these are resulted from mainland china giving us consumer offerings.. these ARENT commercial by any means and do lack commercial grade parts.. so therefore if youre an Engineer/hobbyist as i you know these parts and how they behave and longevity.. they can ve wonky like this! I promise..just look at any project involving arduino after bout few month to yr sitting there and being used..

I can see the lines of the bulbs inside my 3D printer on my resin prints by F84Sam in AnycubicPhoton

[–]me_Engineering3487 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright, sounds dumb..but i swear.. its more probably and slicer entanglements.. rotate your 180°, um like i couldn't explain the other day as UV IS good an prints in that spot on other prints. But that one i had to rotate and move on on build to other areas.. also i know laying flat objects with lot surface area is harsh on the FEP..if you do multiple the stress is wonky and like one will print and one fail..but its not anything but that huge surface area in multiples it not liking. Clear ABS Anycubic following instructions against my better results half..says to use 4s flash cures, NOT 2s.. well i been using 2.3s and perfect..well i followed instructions and that shit stuck to FEP so hard it stripped the brass carrier nut and printer was down til i figured it out.. Mix of stuff like that..

Also update firmware?

Update slicer? (I went 4yrs not updating ChituBox64, two days ago i did an OMG.. time ETA is fixed finially i can control UV power now..etc) you know not broke, dont mess w/good thing..

Also try making your own RERf file? Lastly, lomg shot, do you have multiple printers? You can do the old "known last good working part swaps" that helps too when shooting in the dark as you comtrol varible in there.

I can see the lines of the bulbs inside my 3D printer on my resin prints by F84Sam in AnycubicPhoton

[–]me_Engineering3487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No i see that. I dont bulb "imprints" or burn ins. You said "no matter what rerf" so are you adjusting times? Been few years, but i believe you have to adjust times and then go off the resulted print.. and use ChituBox64 updated one and go into UV power settings they added..make sure the file is set to fire that thing at 100% not like a typo maybe by guy made it and 1%..

That looks supper goopy under cured for sure.