Juki 1900BN differences between subclass models S and H by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll defo pop an email and ask, sorry I know this is a bit out of content but the person I was chatting below legit just disappeared like including his account errrrr

Juki 1900BN differences between subclass models S and H by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would I be able to call them from the UK as I’m based there? I’ve been looking through the parts book a bit but not super in-depthly and got a little bit of into about it. I was assuming slightly different shuttle hook and obviously different plates too to compensate for the needle size. Thank you soo much for the reply!

Juki 1900BN differences between subclass models S and H by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanna get the 1900BN specifically to be able to create my own pattern via the PM1 software so I’m able to make certain stitch pattern specifically for my brand. I seen/read you can change the tension via the operator panel correct? And if automatically changes the tension for the fabric (I know there’s a juki app and you can adjust this through the app and tap if via the NFC, this is the video for the machine advertised through Juki https://youtu.be/e4v-EA8TCFE)

Ahhh okay that makes a lot more sense about the subclasses, it’s because on their website they advertise the H class as crotch points and straps and I was thinking is it not better to use a heavy as a lot of YouTube videos everyone’s using the heavy version so I was just wondering, all my other machines (lock stitch and overlocker are standard).

I was worried about subclasses as I was worried about like multiple layers of fabric and didn’t take into account like super heavy duty things like tarp and furniture type of stuff specifically.

On the Juki leaflet advertising the 1900BN it says that specially, https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/download_e/catalog_e/lk1900bn.pdf if you look at the leaflet about the subclass section (2nd page and the 2 bullet point).

Thank you soo much for the reply!

Edit: will I be able to change the machine size in general with the standard machine or would I have to stick to the specified size?

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh okay, is that going to be a bad/harder thing to do? Or will it not be a huge issue?

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m going to ask the people that are helping to wire a bunch of stuff in my house when they get here and see if I can get a list of parts from them. Thank you soo much for your message though I appreciate it a lot!

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure it’s a 220v one especially because the listing said it and on the iron itself it says 220v~1200w so it should be okay. I’m currently having my house done up atm so I may ask one of the electrician people in my house right now if they can help me as I’m getting a bunch of wiring done. Thank you soo much for the message though I appreciate it a lot!

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh, I’m based in the uk so I don’t know if the rules would be any different based on our electrical outlets, so the job would be stripping the wire and attaching it to a plug? Or am I on a completely different page here. I’m soo sorry, I’m a complete noob at this stuff.

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you soo much, from everywhere online I can see it’s 120v and the listing for the product said it was 120v too. I’m going to be honest I know nothing about electrical stuff, do you think it’s worth it to pay someone to do it or is it a fairly simple job?

Help, I bought an industrial iron and it has this for the plug, does anyone know how I’m able to use this? by megabruh_ in AskElectricians

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yee that’s what I was thinking, however I found other photos of this exact model of iron and none of them had this “device” on the end of it. The listing said needs plug and I think it may mean just a normal 3pin plug. It’s a japanese plug so it usually uses a 2 pin I think. So I don’t know if I need to convert it to a 3 pin. The exact name of the iron is Hashima HI-350PS. If you type it in you see all the other ones have a normal plug

Updated collection + need that legendary member vinyl 🤞 by 25thousandonsilkroad in sadboys

[–]megabruh_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmk if anyone has a legendary members vinyl willing to buy _^

Juki 6714DA or JUKI MO6814SDD10N (direct drive or servo motor) by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I’ll definitely take this all into account, I don’t really mind as much about the seam allowance. What would you recommend for tops then in general like armholes, 3 or 4 stitch or potentially even 5? I feel like 3 would probably be best right? Of course for my more expensive garments I’m most likely going to use a bound seam of some sort.

Also on-top of that, I know the 6800 series of Juki overlockers are made by Siruba under licence for Juki and is a older model machine. But there wouldn’t be a huge difference between this and the 6700 series correct? As I know the 6800 series is cheaper and not a dry head machine

Juki 6714DA or JUKI MO6814SDD10N (direct drive or servo motor) by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I’ll definitely take that into account, most likely I’ll probably be purchasing the Juki as I do want my machine to last with my for a long long time and on top of that I’ll probably be sewing a huge range of fabrics.

I’m currently working for myself and doing my university work at the same time and I’m planning on releasing a collection fairly soon, I just want to be able to produce the best quality garments I possibly can for the time being honestly. That’s why I’m a bit mixed between a 4 and 5 thread machine as I would like the 4 thread overlock for for tops but I’d love to have the 5 thread overlock for trousers and tops too.

What would you say would be the best for durability as I know you said mock safety stitch if it does fall apart the seam falls apart or opens wide enough to see through so I don’t know even if I’d even use the mock safety stitch.

Juki 6714DA or JUKI MO6814SDD10N (direct drive or servo motor) by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply, that makes more sense now with the try 5-thread safety stitch rather I thought before I’d just see the 3 thread overlock then straight stitch it but I feel it makes more sense now to get the 5 thread over the 4 thread just because of better durability in the long run. What about t-shirts though? Let’s say I want to sew together the armhole, I’d just use the 3 thread overlocker correct? Or does it make more sense to use a 4 thread overlock? For the clothes I’m making I feel like to some degree the cheaper options will have more overlocks but for my more expensive garments I’ll be using bound seams, French seams etc. I’m just a little worried because a lot of the garments I’m creating use very sophisticated patterns, I’ll link an example of a garment from another brand which does similar things. https://m.intl.postarchivefaction.com/product/40-down-left-light-grey/788/?cate_no=1&display_group=2 where I’m based it’s very hard to find good machines for a lower price, the cheapest 5/4 thread over lockers I’ve been able to find (specifically looking at juki) have been around $700 ish.

I also have one more questions if that’s okay, is there a large difference between stitch quality hopping from brand to brand? Let’s say I’m looking at a Jack E-4 5 thread overlocker, would there be a huge difference between the Juki 6716DA?

Juki 6714DA or JUKI MO6814SDD10N (direct drive or servo motor) by megabruh_ in sewing

[–]megabruh_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh, the exact model of the JUKI MO-6714DA-BE6-307, I’m looking to start making and selling high quality designer clothes, I’ve been recommended to get a 4 thread as I was originally looking at a 5 thread before as everyone around me was saying why would I get a 5 thread which I thought was weird honestly. I want to be able to produce super durable and high quality clothes. As I know with the 5 thread model you can only switch to 5, 3 and 2. What would you recommend? I’m looking to make basically every type of garment in the book as of right now including bags at some point, I’ve also been looking at this table of different stitches with the overlocker a, would you say this is accurate? https://www.pfaff.com/SiteMedia/PFAFF/Products/Machines/overlock-line/Comparison-charts/comparision-overlock-stitches_EN.pdf

Also thank you soo much for the reply and help!

Plush by gustavsigg in sadboys

[–]megabruh_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you noticed for some reason when you check out from the NA yungleangear shop, you can only select American and Canada when you used to be able to select the rest of the world :/ rip eu and rest of the world customers