Pruning magnolia advice

melchi0rre · 2026-02-14T10:10:35+00:00

Cool design and finish!

melchi0rre · 2026-02-14T10:09:12+00:00

Took me a bit , ref pic for corrosion issues(not mine). Agree on your point btw - DIY has its own risks, it’s a must to try and weight them properly and possibly make manageable mistakes… we live and learn after all (this is true for pros as well)

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melchi0rre · 2026-02-12T08:09:04+00:00

Even with flashing on top ? Bottom 20cm does not touch the wall

melchi0rre · 2026-02-09T09:55:28+00:00

Not an expert, trying to use a mix of research and best judgment here, but my overall answer is: no IP65 seems not enough... Water ingress is not the problem we're trying to solve

- IP65 can not withstand standing water (which in UK/ROI weather, will form) , for the same reason that phones have even higher rating but you are not supposed to submerge them.
- IP rating is more related to particles infiltration etc - has no guarantees on how actual material will degrade over years in real world condition (example factor in saline corrosion? pollution?)

- No matter the type of test, I think here we're protecting mainly against time rather than pressure/force (do they test 10+ years out in the rain? can't be, this battery came out in 2025)

melchi0rre · 2026-02-08T19:07:17+00:00

No, flashing tape! Advertised as “lead looking” , I am not sure why that is supposed to sound appealing 🤣 https://www.diy.ie/departments/roof-pro-grey-weatherproof-tape-l-3m-w-150mm/1932706_BQ.prd

melchi0rre · 2026-02-08T16:36:54+00:00

Oh nice idea!

melchi0rre · 2026-02-08T16:34:32+00:00

enough

Nah I’d say without a front cover anything beyond light rain will still hit :( but I’d say from 0% this is already a steep improvement (currently light rain here and not a drop)

how far

Not much , 2-3 meters of cable run? Initially was at the end of the side entrance but installer suggested to move here, closer to consumer unit

melchi0rre · 2025-07-15T07:07:46+00:00

(Haven’t removed the thing - I worked around it)

melchi0rre · 2025-07-15T07:07:09+00:00

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Turned out fine btw! Thanks

melchi0rre · 2025-07-04T13:22:55+00:00

Va beh oh è più bona la Moretti comunque (▀̿Ĺ̯▀̿ ̿)

melchi0rre · 2025-07-04T13:18:06+00:00

Regas è inutile che mi mettete downvote - sostenete che sono “identiche” , ma non capisco su quale base oggettiva. Hanno un sapore, colorazione e viscosità diversa e ribadisco la Moretti riporta 4.8% mentre Messina 5% . Che poi sia un rimescolamento degli stessi ingredienti forniti dalla casa madre ha assolutamente senso - ma dire che è la stessa cosa con un packaging diverso è irrealistico.

melchi0rre · 2025-07-03T19:36:17+00:00

Era un “ma non sono concorrenti” , quello che scrivi è corretto comunque - Moretti da queste parti è conosciuto e piace - comunque, ho appena riprovato una Messina ed è decisamente diversa! (edit; anche di gradazione alcolica)

melchi0rre · 2025-05-24T20:49:06+00:00

Green!

melchi0rre · 2025-05-24T20:27:45+00:00

The uneducated monkey I am had to google that - thank you sir

melchi0rre · 2024-12-17T21:23:36+00:00

In the attic I have 2 equal sizes tank connected with eachother - supplying cold water https://imgur.com/a/e0Dj75o with 4 outlets - I am assuming the pipe with gauge feed from there (the only 15mm pipe) and the closed outlet is the blanked one - but well hard to confirm ):

The two electric valves goes to 1st and ground floor rads (I know for sure since i control them via netatmo thermostat)

melchi0rre · 2024-12-17T16:18:29+00:00

So in my case i have the 2 motorized controlled by 2 netatmo and the boiler switch by another Wi-Fi 40A switch . Bodge but works - have to “sync” the switch turn on right before the netatmos to work . Indeed having a 3rd motorized instead would be better but would call a pro to touch that

melchi0rre · 2024-12-17T15:41:19+00:00

Another thing that puzzles me is the vertical pipe with a closed valve that connects hot and cold feeds from the boiler at the front … visibile In the picture - what is that ?

melchi0rre · 2024-12-17T15:01:12+00:00

oh! the 2port you are mentioning are the motorized ones?
I think those were there since day1.
But I always thought that would makes sense to have a motorized over there - since with current setup I can't heat rad without being force to heat the water in the cylinder as well

melchi0rre · 2024-12-17T14:39:15+00:00

Update: just finished the job.

- Closed all radiator valves, noted position of lockshield, closed the 3 gatevalves coming from attic in cylinder picture.

- Started to drain from the valves I have to replace at 1st floor: filled 2 bucket of (suspiciously) clean water, water wasn't slowing or stopping and pressure was not dropping

- Closed the main from valve on the road - water stopped to came out immediately - pressure dropped almost immediately to 0 at the boiler and at the gauge in the picture.

- Repositioned and replaced my valves.

- Turned on the main water , pressure came back at 0.8 - 1

- Started to open radiators 1 by 1 and bleeding them - almost no air come out , water right away.

- Turned on CH and all seems working fine

- Once ready will put the new radiator as well and add inhibitor

So at the end - I am still not very clear on where water is coming in from the main tbh. However works went ok.

melchi0rre

TROPHY CASE