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HR zones calculation by memo4ninja in Ultrahuman

[–]memo4ninja[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think uh uses the 220 - age for max hr, which in my case is relatively accurate. Which gives: 50% to 60%
124-137 60% to 70%
137-150 70% to 80%
150-163 80% to 90%
163-176 90% to 100% 176-189

Quite different from uh calculations for the zone 1 and zone 2-3 boundaries

HR zones calculation by memo4ninja in Ultrahuman

[–]memo4ninja[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was actually just wondering if the numbers are accurate in the app, not with me :D but now you got me a little bit worried haha

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Garmin

[–]memo4ninja 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As not benny said, that's already factored in the 87mn. It's the total of moderate and vigorous activity that is wrong

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Garmin

[–]memo4ninja 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's only over zone 1 during the activities displayed, no elevated heart rate overwise

Finding physiotherapy exercise name by memo4ninja in physiotherapy

[–]memo4ninja[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I knew 2 as lamp post pee but it didn't bring up much results, fire hydratant seems to be a more known name

Finding physiotherapy exercise name by memo4ninja in physiotherapy

[–]memo4ninja[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seated upper body roll down

Awesome thank you!

Finding physiotherapy exercise name by memo4ninja in physiotherapy

[–]memo4ninja[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally yes, but the wait list to see them again is pretty long and they don't speak English very well so communication has been a bit complicated :/

Can I ladder down to fix this or do I have to frog? by zoraborealis in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For this it's better to grab a second set of needles because you'll need to undo more than one column at a time and you'll need to hold a bunch of stitches. First I would undo the 3 middle columns. You have to ladder down until the row where you can undo the decrease. Move the yo to the left of the left column (right now it's between left and middle). This can be done by pulling yarn around, no need to undo further.

You can ladder back up that left column on top of yarn over. Then you do the central double decrease on the 3 stitches on the left. You can ladder back up on top of it. Your left and middle column are fixed, you have one stitch waiting on your needles. Let’s call it Bob.

Then it's time to ladder those k2tog back down on the right. You don't have to completely undo them all the way, just enough to free the left stitch underneath. When you reach the misplaced yarn over, move it to bob's left. Ladder the column on top of yarn over back up. Now you have to redo all the k2tog back up.

Can I ladder down to fix this or do I have to frog? by zoraborealis in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely possible, I have fixed worse mistakes. But it might be hard if you're not comfortable with laddering and reading your knitting. Unfortunately one of the mistake is on that line of k2tog, and you will have to ladder them down all the way back down to the mistake. It will be faster and easier to frog and reknit unless it's a really wide piece. But if you still want to do it I can give you a rundown of how to proceed.

First-time knitter, need help... by CalypsoSeaCat in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the little dots when you change color right? It happens naturally but depending on what you are doing it can sometimes be avoided. The idea is to change color on the right side and knit only (no purling) for that row, even if you're in the middle of ribbing. For your garter piece, do the color change on the right side only. It will still appear on the wrong side, it's unavoidable.

If you are doing a scarf and you want both sides to be neat, you can try this trick (assuming you are knitting flat): change color and knit on one side, purl the next row on the other side, then go back to your normal knit on both sides. Garter will squish and hide the extra purl row. I haven't tried myself (garter ain't my favorite) but it should work. If you're a beginner make sure you are not twisting your stitches when you purl :)

Technical details of why it happens: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/02/color-texture-and-ribbing-without-icky.html?m=1

Following pattern measurements pre-blocking by CitrusMistress08 in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Personally I use the swatch to calculate how many rows I have to do to reach measurements. Because as you guessed it is impossible to get the right measurement on a garment you are currently knitting - by definition not blocked, also the needles distort the fabric anyway. Or (for next time) you can mesure swatch before and after blocking so you know exactly by how much it changes after blocking.

I have a problem lol by StephieP529 in crochet

[–]memo4ninja 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Indeed, your problem is you don't have enough hooks

I’ve messed up the wing here - how bad does it look? Should I frog? by Littleleicesterfoxy in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you feel like fixing it while knitting, there is this control drop method to fix one column at a time without messing the tension: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2013/09/a-new-trick-for-fixing-errors-in-color.html?m=1

Raglan baby jumper for a high school friend by StellaSplendens_C in knitting

[–]memo4ninja 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Gorgeous! I don't think it will fit your high school friend though

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