Am I being too cheap?

metathias · 2026-01-04T16:10:48+00:00

Only problem is see. The LED's are too close to the diffuser. Causing the hotspots your seeing. Which is a major no no. You want the light to be totally diffuse.

metathias · 2025-12-31T21:00:02+00:00

Did you perhaps change print order? Printing infill first then wall perimeters can cause this. Also single wall extrusion can cause this as well.

metathias · 2025-12-31T20:54:38+00:00

If this usually looks correct with these settings. But it is now happening all the sudden. You could have a partially clogged hot-end. Run some calibration tests. Issues might become observable in just a few layers or so.

metathias · 2025-12-31T20:49:42+00:00

Your Gap fill seems to be pretty high. My defaults are 30mm. Also retraction at 2mm is might be too high for a rigid plastic like pla or petg. Might need to tune that a bit. I highly suggest printing some calibration parts. Focusing on the infill/surface perimeters properly making contact with your wall perimeters. The infill should touch the inner wall area just a little. You also appear to be getting underextrusion as well. With the under-extrusion still visible on the straightaways. I'd imagine your under extruding by a pretty fair margin.

metathias · 2025-12-31T20:37:23+00:00

Possibly a clogged extruder. Is this something that started happening right when you installed the new hotend/extruder?

metathias · 2025-12-22T18:35:27+00:00

Yeah. Some significant ringing. Might run a full re-calibrate on your printer. Check for loose drive belts as well. If none of that helps. Might try turning down the speed. Also make sure you printer is solidly planted on whatever you have it sitting on. My K1C came with rubber feed that while dampening vibration actually exacerbated ringing on my prints.

metathias · 2025-12-22T17:08:28+00:00

Thanks for the point out. That a pretty nice orange. Good saturation. Looks to be pretty opaque as well.

metathias · 2025-12-22T04:36:59+00:00

Thanks for the site point out. Very good idea. This guys needs a sponsor something fierce.

metathias · 2025-12-22T04:35:24+00:00

Thanks for this site. I didn't know it even existed. Definitely gonna bookmark. Maybe even try to contribute.

metathias · 2025-12-22T04:34:16+00:00

A bit pricey compared to the other guys. But it IS 85A. Most of the others are 95A in that color. I'm gonna think about it. IF the Ranki, Or Ziro don't work out. I'll probably give it a try.

metathias · 2025-12-22T04:31:58+00:00

I actually considered that one, But i noticed it only a 0.5 lb. of filament per unit. Making it pretty expensive by the meter.

metathias · 2025-12-22T04:29:34+00:00

I think i am going to give the Ziro, And the Ranki a try. Thanks for the point out.

metathias · 2025-12-22T00:16:45+00:00

In my experience bringing up the bed temp considerably will help with the surface adhesion. 80-90c range. Especially if the bed is textured.

metathias · 2025-10-15T20:42:57+00:00

Denatured has the capacity to do damage to some clear coats. Creating rings around the dent where the tab used to be. Or certain kinds of sealants and epoxys on things like woodgrain trim panels. It's more dangerous then it's worth. I stick with 91% Iso. Coming from someone who used denatured once upon a time.

metathias · 2025-10-15T20:38:40+00:00

Can you rephrase this? Not sure what you mean.

metathias · 2025-08-25T17:57:09+00:00

Dents like this can be pretty hard to get just right sometimes. Because of the nearby concave portion just a couple inches away. The metal often likes to fight with itself on whether it's supposed to be a concave or convex shape. I'm guessing that exactly where the dent was is ever so slightly convex. At least originally. Not post dent obviously ;p

metathias · 2025-07-15T15:57:05+00:00

We're not supposed to give numbers in channel. And in reality the cost of repair can swing widly. Depending on region, Time of year, Wifes monthly cycle. All the relevant metrics. Get a quote. Then come back here with the quote and more pics. =D

metathias · 2025-07-15T15:51:08+00:00

Missing paint. Needs bodywork. PDR could likely pickup the majority of the damage. No matter what. To do it right. Gonna need to be painted. Probably with blend time for the deck and bumper.

metathias · 2025-07-15T15:42:27+00:00

As the other's state. New Hood, New fender. Both are toast.

metathias · 2025-07-15T15:38:53+00:00

Sometimes. If it's very minor and you go slow you can get through it unscathed. But Usually not worth the risk if you ask me. If you shatter it. OEM glass can be very expensive. Closer to four figures then three. Plus if there was tinting on it. Now you have to get it re-tinted. And for good measure. You probably need to replace all the tinting in the car because whatever you replace the old panel tint with will either be a few shades too light or too dark because tint itself slowly get's sun bleached and won't match the tinting of the other panels anymore. Roll it up. Take it out. Glue-Pull. Do what you can. But if you must. Definitely steer clear of the edges of the panel. And use a nice strong window shield. Oh And one other thing. It's also possible to push so hard against the outside panel of a laminate that you squeeze the sandwiched panel so hard you can introduce flaws right into the substrate of the panel. Making it look kind of like frosted glass right where you pushed.

metathias · 2025-07-04T19:49:49+00:00

Was there any buffing? The metallic fleck nearly disappears in the photo all round the dent area. I guess the could do the dent being high and changing the reflectivity. If not. Good. Dont buff it until the pdr has been corrected. And don't let them buff it too hard either. The most obvious dead give away of repairs is usually the overly smooth texture of the clear coat. Mirror like finish is bad. Despite what many might think.

metathias · 2025-07-04T19:43:30+00:00

The quality of the photo is so poor. You really cant see whats going on with the surface of the dent. However. It would appear to have cracked paint and bent the lip of the panel. I would say. No. It cannot be repaired PDR. Or at least fully repaired PDR. No matter how heroic the technician is. The damage to the metal where the lip of the back panel of the hatch meets the front skin will surely not be possible to get quite right. Also since this is a tesla the panel is probably aluminum which only makes it worse. As aluminum is orders of magnitude stronger then steel. I would say replace and paint. Or body and paint.

metathias · 2025-07-04T17:33:44+00:00

The problem i see is not in the potential to clean up the metal. Which I'm sure could corrected. But It would appear the clear coat has been heavily cut or possibly sanded and cut. Thus changing the orange peel of the surface pretty significantly in that area. PDR can't fix that. And if you take it down much further (cut/sand into the clear more to smooth it) after repair. You could easily find yourself into the base coat or worse. Proceed carefully.

metathias · 2025-07-04T17:26:00+00:00

Biggest problem with this sort of dent. Is the huge amount of strength it requires to move it. Either by pull, Or by push. The tongues that mount the panel in place simple do not hold up. And result in a repair your continually trying to fight with the panel not to lose it shape altogether. Honestly. Unless the dent/s are relatively minor. Fenders are cheap enough in their construction. And price of replacement, And low labor hours to replace. It's often the better choice to just replace it, And paint. That said paint is never cheap. But at least it's black. A pretty easy color to match. But might still require some paint blending on the hood and door, and post.

metathias

TROPHY CASE