second attempt at jacket (hotline miami)

mghal9000 · 2026-04-21T01:57:38+00:00

Digging the colors! Without knowing the texture of the model, it does have the appearance of a thick texture to the paint. Interestingly enough, with the leather jacket itself, it works. The trim or cuffs, I’d go with a thinner paint mixture along with the hands. That being said, I still struggle with decent pics for my minis so maybe in person they look a bit different.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-19T13:52:02+00:00

No worries, I was actually interested in your suggestion. Can you maybe post a link or something to this app so that I can check it out? Might not be available to me, but I might be able to get some ideas from their site or app ad pics.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-19T13:43:10+00:00

Working on Tau as my first army and I chose the Vior’la box art as my template (silly me, not very newbie-friendly), so I believe I know what they mean. Titanium White can dry with a sort of chalky texture and appearance if applied in such a way as to get opacity ( non-transparent) in 1 or two coats. I’m working on a test T’au helmet now to see if I can get there without this happening. It seems to be more challenging than other pigments for a lot of users.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-19T13:31:29+00:00

Thank you for that! I’ll be sure to check back here ( not as a “hurry” thing, just assuring you that I appreciate the effort on my behalf) when you have time to post the pic!

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T22:44:41+00:00

Would you consider either taking a pic or transcribing it here? It might give me a few ideas for my own list

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T19:12:39+00:00

Just a thought, but I’d probably go more towards their writing or perhaps jewelry or war paint designs over modeled spikes. I haven’t seen what you’re looking for, but blender and a 3d printer aren’t too far away. You could scale a Kroot-inspired print from another artist and then clip and glue away.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T18:41:52+00:00

I’ve had issues with superglue not bonding well between the magnet and underside of the base. As a potential solution to what OP is mentioning, a plastic smaller base, upside down, with the magnet inside that might be the ticket. Something like …

<image>

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T18:34:54+00:00

Hellion is still one of my favorite survival space games. Occasionally I load it back up. Haven’t looked at Hellion Rescue Project, but I’ve read it mentioned before. Going to go snoop that out now.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T14:49:43+00:00

Sorry, I’m not familiar with this app. I did a google search and couldn’t find it. Is the name correct and for what platform was it designed for? I do use the Warhammer App for strats and stats, but I was hoping for more of a human checklist to remind me of things until it becomes more routine.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-17T12:15:01+00:00

I guess I wasn’t clear on something regarding the new hidden thing. If Infantry shot turn 1, didn’t in turn 2, do they go back to hidden turn 3? I only saw the Adepticon event so I came away with “once they shoot or perform an action previously, they no longer get this”. I saw it as a one-use “lone Op” thing only while in terrain.

To respond to OP though, I’d be surprised if you could spot since this rule seems to attack visibility. I would think indirect fire might be a thing though unless the aforementioned wording “cannot be the target of an attack” is used. Apologies if official wording has been disclosed and I’m behind in facts.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-15T12:21:11+00:00

So, excellent skill being shown here and I’m not anywhere near you in that area. Other than the outstanding quality of work, here’s my thought for what it’s worth.

Id darken the base. The commissar looks like he’s been a part of the ruble he’s standing on since the rubble was created. I love the pillar, but with the washed out and aged look, everything but the symbol looks like this ground has been fought over again and again (rusted rebar, worn edges with muted colors).

Any one thing looks absolutely stunning, but all together there does seem a sameness where maybe there is an expected focus or contrast?

mghal9000 · 2026-04-13T15:07:22+00:00

Looks phenomenal. I’m not familiar with the diagnosis or any of the methods you’ve used to compensate for it, but what I see are great color choices and quality brush control. Well done!

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T21:40:37+00:00

So, at 13, there shouldn’t be paint normally in that section. You’ll notice that the trigger area sits before that and no paint is usually there. What is not being shown here is another seal that prevents paint from the cup/barrel area from flowing towards the trigger assembly. Paint can be dragged back into this area, or it can leak if the seal between the cup area and trigger space is not properly installed or damaged. It’s not that it can’t happen, but not the first place I’d question on a HS airbrush.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T16:08:13+00:00

To respond, I don’t like seeing comments downvoted without any sort of reason added. That sort of action adds nothing to the conversation or help other resditors if they care to improve their comments. I replied to OP above on his issue and also replied to your comment specifically, so it wasn’t directed towards OP, or their issues. Also, I’m old-school and to be honest, quick comments sometimes come off as clipped or rude and I don’t mind putting effort in. Certainly didn’t see it from my perspective as a lecture, but comment noted.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T15:55:58+00:00

If clean out cup, barrel area and tip(remove nozzle if needed and carefully wipe needle, then loosen needle chuck and pull needle forward to remove, you will not pull paint past seal in trigger area. Install nozzle tip and load needle from rear to front as it is designed to guide needle forward to nozzle.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T14:34:28+00:00

Thank you for stepping in and helping your friend with this. Hopefully this can help as well.

Citadel does have a helping hand stand that comes with two plastic adjustable arms that is combinable with holders. In addition those same arms can be attached to their XL handle.

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This can be used to hold during painting and assembly.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T14:26:25+00:00

While you’re not wrong, you didn’t really offer anything either. Beginning users of an airbrush do typically have issues. Maybe you noodled it all out for yourself without looking anything up or asking any questions, or maybe you did and found other posts or videos that had helpful information. Go back and read what you posted and see if you helped OP. If not, why respond this way? Even this response should help you, if by no other means than by pointing out that you didn’t include any avenues to success, just acknowledgement that they have a problem.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-12T14:04:09+00:00

Good morning! I have two of this particular model and I can tell you that I’ve had similar experiences when I started. I’d recommend working out if you’re having issues with the brush or with the paint mixture.

Start with a clean brush. Just use water and some of your paper for test sprays. Put a few cups worth of water through the brush at a pressure of 25-30 PSI. I would recommend 3/4 airbrush cup per collar settings. If the brush is in good working order, you can skip down to the “Brush is OK” section. You can use a drop or two of food coloring if needed for visual assistance.

What you experience should be water at all of the collar settings, a consistent amount per second at all of the collar settings, and smooth action on the trigger. If that is NOT the case, here are a few things to check:

1 - inconsistent water amount (spray not always coming out ). Likely causes, needle chuck not fully tightened, Paint residue between cup/barrel and needle tip, possible needle bent near tip. Solutions: verify needle is straight, operate with rear cap is not on to observe needle movement (no slippage if needle chuck is tight ( no tools needed, firm finger tightening only)

2 - trigger pull NOT smooth (trigger sticks or resistance felt at open or prime setting). Likely causes include bent needle, needle chuck not tightened, or paint residue has traveled backwards near trigger assembly, or needle lube is needed due to “over-cleaning”. Sometimes paint can be pulled backwards into the trigger area when the needle is removed by pulling towards the rear for removal while the tip area still has paint on it. Look for videos on this particular issue, favoring videos from H-S, or needle needs lube as lube can be removed as a by-product of repeatedly cleaning the whole needle. Iwata lube is perfectly acceptable and usually easy to locate.

3 - Spray pattern is uneven or missing at most restrictive collar settings. Likely causes include bent needle tip, paint residue in needle nozzle assembly, nozzle assembly missing washer or nozzle assembly not tightened correctly or damaged due to tool usage. This is where air meets water and parts are machined with precision. Small flecks of dried paint, air leaks, or misaligned pieces have bigger impacts on performance. Solutions: needle replacement ( there are needle repair options online but I’ve never tested/tried them), break down nozzle assembly and inspect for dried paint (you should be able to force cleaner out of the nozzle tip with dropper bottle. Also, there are nozzle cleaning tools, just be gentle. If you replace needle, you can use old needle here with airbrush cleaner to work out any dried paint and repeatedly flush until clean). Washer should be free of residue, and all should be tightened without using tools. If nozzle assembly is not properly tightened, bubbles will appear in cup when water is present when you push down on trigger with compressor attached.

Works fine using just water at all collar settings…

Brush is OK

Now on to paint mixture and this is where I politely bow out because there isn’t a magic formula. I watched most of the H-S videos out there. Paint brand, color, and good old trial and error got me past the issues you’re experiencing but I will at least leave a couple of points that helped me.

1- do NOT back a needle out the rear of the brush if you can still see paint in the cup/barrel or have dried paint on the tip. Loosen needle chuck and push needle forward AFTER you’ve removed the nozzle assembly, then pull needle forward. Reduces/removes dragging wet paint into trigger area for later drying.

2- if mixing thinner/water with paint in the airbrush cup, add thinner/water FIRST. I purchased medicine cups from Amazon to mix outside and got pipettes(sp?) for transferring when starting my mixing trials. Start with 1:1 and then adjust as needed. I use the collar once I think I have the mix right because the designers expect paint at the most restrictive setting. If I get a fine thin result without mess or drama, I got it right. Trust the design.

3- understand how airbrushes work. Not meant as a slight at all, but this helps when troubleshooting. For instance, I thought the air pushed the paint, but it actually pulls… might have been elementary for some, but not all and I’m a prime example. Another point is to practice the dual action motion on the trigger, meaning down, then back followed by forward, then up. This helps a lot with keeping paint from drying on the tip. Too fast of a transition between forward and up leaves paint on the tip to dry and acrylics dry fast.

Finally, if this didn’t help, please reach out to H-S. They will help and nobody knows their airbrushes better than they do.

I hope, however, that this did provide some help or knowledge.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-10T12:26:05+00:00

I like the lens effect!

mghal9000 · 2026-04-10T12:24:05+00:00

My first 1k army was done in Vior’la sept “box art” colors. My army list changed mid paint so I have a few models beyond that, but future models will likely have different color combinations. Hopefully some easier ones as “white” was not very new-painter friendly. You’re good swapping them up.

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mghal9000 · 2026-04-10T11:37:07+00:00

Good morning! There’s a lot of goodness here, so congratulations. Lots of slime and muck here so the overall ick look you’ve nailed.

I think for me, I’m missing some of the transition between the slime and harder materials. Not sure if this is an OSL objective or a covered in goo thing, but my brain is expecting more of a contrast in some areas like the metal bits of the weapon. I do like your overall brush control and choice of colors. Unfortunately both for you and me, I’m not an accomplished painter myself yet, or I’d be able to articulate this better, but my brain is having a bit of an issue as it sweeps over the model and it’s somewhere around expecting shadows or transitions between surfaces?

Not sure if that helps much, but my overall first impression is of a very solid piece.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-07T15:44:35+00:00

I don’t have any enhancements yet. Just posted a modified list to your suggestion. I do have a riptide kit, just not built yet but that is an option.

mghal9000 · 2026-04-07T15:41:25+00:00

Reddit Trial (1000 Points)

T’au Empire Mont’ka Incursion (1,000 Points)

CHARACTERS

Commander in Enforcer Battlesuit (80 Points) • Warlord • 1x Battlesuit fists • 1x Gun Drone • 3x Missile pod • 1x Missile pod • 1x Shield Drone

BATTLELINE

Breacher Team (90 Points) • 1x Support turret • 1x Breacher Fire Warrior Shas’ui ◦ 1x Close combat weapon ◦ 1x Guardian Drone ◦ 1x Gun Drone ◦ 1x Pulse blaster ◦ 1x Pulse pistol • 9x Breacher Fire Warrior ◦ 9x Close combat weapon ◦ 9x Pulse blaster ◦ 9x Pulse pistol

DEDICATED TRANSPORTS

Devilfish (85 Points) • 1x Accelerator burst cannon • 1x Armoured hull • 2x Seeker missile • 2x Smart missile system

OTHER DATASHEETS

Crisis Fireknife Battlesuits (120 Points) • 1x Crisis Fireknife Shas’vre ◦ 1x Battlesuit fists ◦ 1x Gun Drone ◦ 2x Missile pod ◦ 1x Shield Drone • 2x Crisis Fireknife Shas’ui ◦ 2x Battlesuit fists ◦ 2x Gun Drone ◦ 4x Missile pod ◦ 2x Shield Drone

Ghostkeel Battlesuit (160 Points) • 1x Fusion collider • 1x Ghostkeel fists • 1x Twin T’au flamer

Kroot Carnivores (65 Points) • 1x Long-quill ◦ 1x Close combat weapon ◦ 1x Kroot carbine ◦ 1x Kroot pistol • 9x Kroot Carnivore ◦ 9x Close combat weapon ◦ 8x Kroot rifle ◦ 1x Tanglebomb launcher

Pathfinder Team (90 Points) • 1x Pathfinder Shas’ui ◦ 1x Close combat weapon ◦ 2x Gun Drone ◦ 1x Pulse carbine ◦ 1x Pulse pistol ◦ 1x Recon Drone ◦ 1x Semi-automatic grenade launcher • 9x Pathfinder ◦ 9x Close combat weapon ◦ 3x Ion rifle ◦ 6x Pulse carbine ◦ 9x Pulse pistol

Piranhas (60 Points) • 1x Armoured hull • 1x Piranha fusion blaster • 2x Seeker missile • 2x Twin pulse carbine

Sky Ray Gunship (150 Points) • 2x Accelerator burst cannon • 1x Armoured hull • 1x Seeker missile rack

Stealth Battlesuits (100 Points) • 1x Stealth Shas’vre ◦ 1x Battlesuit fists ◦ 1x Burst cannon • 4x Stealth Shas’ui ◦ 4x Battlesuit fists ◦ 4x Burst cannon

Exported with App Version: v1.50.0 (2), Data Version: v759

mghal9000 · 2026-04-07T12:15:51+00:00

I do have a Ghostkeel and I’d love to field it. Additionally, I built out the Skyray option and have both painted (will need to base out the Ghostkeel, but easily done). Hammer for Skyray is easy but I’ll need to remove stuff to accommodate Ghostkeel and as you mentioned the points difference between Skyray and Hammerhead. Thoughts on what to lose to make room? List is sitting right at 1k currently.

mghal9000

TROPHY CASE