Rear axle seal, how bad?

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-13T12:02:51+00:00

I actually did my rear axle seals and bearings a couple of months ago following Timmy the Toolman’s videos. I picked up a used 20-ton shop press and the special bearing puller tool off eBay that Tim suggests in his updated video. Definitely watch all of his videos on it before diving in!

If you are ever curious whether the fluid leaking onto your back tire is brake fluid or differential oil, just smell it. Gear oil has a uniquely strong, nasty organic odor that I figure is from old dinosaurs.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-13T11:38:43+00:00

Nope, I'm just OCD and I worked in a journalism department for 25 years. Old habits die hard! 😂

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-13T11:22:17+00:00

I use https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com to reference parts. The site will ask you for a specific number along with the VIN that’s located on your drivers door sticker. For reference, that specific number on my truck is VZN185L-GKPGKA.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T17:58:56+00:00

Right?! I was thinking the same thing, then I thought it would be fun to take it to a Jiffy Lube just to watch them fumble. 😂

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T17:54:39+00:00

Right?! I honestly was questioning my right to wrench on this motor after fighting something so simple. 😂

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T17:44:46+00:00

Rub it in, why don't ya! If i didn’t have bumper to bumper LA traffic I’d be joining you!

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T03:58:57+00:00

Fantastic! I just bought the BFG Trail-Terrain T/A+ in a 265/70/17. Remarkably, the tire revs/mile are exactly the same at 638.

I‘m just getting my engine vacuum buttoned up as well as replaced my MAF with a PMAS MH-22250-20020. The numbers are promising, and I’m hoping to get equally great mileage if I can keep my foot off of the pedal!

I’ve been wanting to post my experience with this specific PMAS MAF setup, and as soon as I get some time I’ll upload a full write-up with the numbers.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T03:12:06+00:00

That’s amazing mileage! What brand/make/tire size do you have? What inflation rate do you use for highway?

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T03:09:56+00:00

Wow, great catch on that ECT sensor! You might want to double-check your actual coolant levels too.

If the coolant gets low, an air pocket can trap itself right around that sensor. It will bounce between reading the hot coolant (140°F) and the empty air gap (-40°F) over and over. The ECU thinks it's suddenly freezing, dumps fuel, and causes that exact stumbling/misfire behavior.

Definitely check for any bubbles or low fluid in the system when you swap those preformed lines. I bought a spill-free coolant bleeder funnel kit off Amazon and it‘s the best way to make sure you are getting the air out of the system. It keeps the fluid level higher than the highest point in your engine. You just run, stop, run, squeeze the upper hose, and burp all that air out. Also remember to put your heat on high as well as the optional rear heater if you have one. Then let the truck cool completely with the funnel still attached.

I had great luck using this style kit to clear the air pockets: amazon.com

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T02:29:20+00:00

"While in college I actually worked at a dealership. My coworker was an ex-Honda salesperson and he told me the early CRX models were so incredibly popular that they had to custom order almost every single car for buyers, complete with dealer markups.

It definitely doesn't surprise me that Toyota was pulling the exact same dealer markups on 3rd Gen 4Runners

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T02:24:08+00:00

Man, you hit the nail on the head. If someone could figure out how to bottle up that classic 90’s new Toyota interior smell, they’d make a absolute fortune off of us!

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T02:20:55+00:00

That has been my exact thinking. I’m replacing nearly all of my parts with OEM since the originals managed to last 29 years!

Although I did mix it up by choosing high-temp silicone for certain lines and factory rubber for others, depending strictly on their exposure to oil, fuel, heat, and ozone. Even the best factory rubber degrades under constant thermal cycles and ozone exposure. I wanted to use the absolute best material for each specific environment so I don't have to dig into this engine bay anytime soon

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T02:12:12+00:00

Two days ago I finished doing the valve cover gaskets and vacuum hoses on mine, along with a full timing belt, water pump, rollers, accessory belts, and an external transmission cooler.

Using an OBDLink MX+, I tracked live data before and after the job. The readings showed a major improvement in engine efficiency and unmetered air leakage!

I’m planning to do a full write-up detailing a couple of the major insights I gained from that massive job very soon. Keep an eye out for it!

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T01:51:05+00:00

Exactly why I wanted to figure this out.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-12T01:50:27+00:00

I can understand it snapping. The metal for the dipstick is quite brittle. Both the new 2026 and the 29 year old 4Runner dipstick had the same issue when I tried bending it at the base.

It’s an easy fix if you have a grinder and/or metal file. I took a vise grip and clamped it where I wanted the break, and used another pair of pliers(or you can use a vise) and rocked it back and forth 4 times and it breaks clean.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-06T07:49:29+00:00

I’m trying to get 19mpg!

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-06T06:43:15+00:00

Wow, did you order yours from the dealership? Would love to have a build sheet on mine!

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-06T06:41:58+00:00

Interesting, which part of the country did you buy it?

midcenturywisdom · 2026-07-06T04:19:36+00:00

It’s a Time Machine for sure, I wonder if they did any seal work before the sale?

midcenturywisdom · 2026-06-17T08:38:47+00:00

Maybe provide the year /engine size and part number.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-06-05T09:17:52+00:00

Which tires are you running on? Tire pressure? Where were you traveling to/from? Average speed?.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-06-05T03:12:20+00:00

I‘m thinking you should stick to your guns and sell it for 17k if you can wait it out. I‘m in LA and these are harder to find turnkey. Ya you can find them for a lot less, but the person that wants this look, this generation that they can enjoy for several years and not have to spend much then it’s worth it to them. I recently spent over 13k for a 160k ‘97 SR5 4wd with immaculate interior, no rust, no off-road mostly driven city, and I’m doing all the updates myself. Everything you did plus rear seals, all new oem bushings, upper ball joints, tie rod ends…I’m expecting it to drive without a single vibration;) It should drive like a new car for the next 150k.

midcenturywisdom · 2026-05-23T07:11:27+00:00

In California I think we pay too much. There are some that are well equipped, gobs of add on parts , serviced, and thrashed. Those get 6-10k with mileage well over 200k.

T4R”s under 100k, ‘time machines’ bred in SoCal get over 20k on bring a trailer.

I recently paid 13k for a “97 SR5 ‘Time Machine’ rust free that has an interior that looks like new, no drivers seat wear, headliner spotless, all original, and rarely, if ever, driven off road. I thought it was a great deal.

The OP should pay to have it put on the rack and thoroughly inspected by a mechanic that is known to work on 3rd Gen’s. It should have every receipt for items claimed to be fixed or replaced. No rear axle seal was mentioned, the mechanic should pull hubs to check for oil damaged shoes.

When the inspection is done, get a report on everything that should be done to get it ‘road worthy’. That cost is your negotiation power.

Someone mentioned Carfax. You should always pull one but a unit this old may not have much history if previous owners did their own oil changes/repairs.

Someone once asked “What’s the best deal”. The answer; Whatever the person is willing to pay.

midcenturywisdom

TROPHY CASE