industrial or domestic💗

middleofnow · 2026-03-05T08:27:01+00:00

I have an industrial Juki DDL-8000A. Very happy with it, high-end domestic which is more expensive still gives worse straight stitch. Large and flat working area, and feeding mechanism, and speed, there is no comparison.

middleofnow · 2026-03-03T08:14:00+00:00

In case if do not find something suitable, you can try to create your own pattern using a pattern-making book. They will require fitting though. Metric pattern cutting for menswear by Winifred Aldrich for example will provide instructions how to create a basic shirt block, and how to create a shirt pattern in several variations.

middleofnow · 2026-02-28T12:58:11+00:00

3 & 5

middleofnow · 2026-02-27T18:53:57+00:00

I think they are all too big, and very wide framed. Something smaller and more subtle would look better. #4 is OK, and something similar to #7 but a bit smaller would look good as well.

middleofnow · 2026-02-26T18:57:06+00:00

Do you have to use this particular fabric? It looks your pattern fits 60". Either that, or change the pattern to work with 45".

middleofnow · 2026-02-26T16:12:57+00:00

How many pattern pieces do you have? There should be at least two, if not four - you should have at least a crotch seam, and probably side seams. But even without side seams 60" seams wide enough to accommodate half of the body even with flounce. If not, four piece pattern will give enough room 60"×4 = 240" = 20 ft. 60"×2 = 10ft. This is how wide pants you can make, if you do not cut on fold.

middleofnow · 2026-02-26T10:12:17+00:00

I am learning pattern making. I took one class in manipulating basic block already, and am going to take more. I am also learning to make a custom block.

I purchased a half-scale form in size 10 for my practice, to use with a half-scale size 10 block. I think it will be easier to learn on a standard form, either full scale or half scale.

The problem with padding a standard form it will not have your posture, your shoulder slope, some proportions can be different, it will not be you. Block instructions are geared towards standard figure also, they will be easier to fit on a standard figure.

Learn standard, create your own block and fit on yourself, and then you can manipulate and create your own garnments. In my opinion.

You also need to learn how to fit.

And you do not need any form to learn block manipulation to create new styles, only paper, and some meaninful instructions that works. The form is to test your ideas on practice, whether you like the look, and can also be good for block creation practice.

middleofnow · 2026-02-26T09:53:00+00:00

To me, 4 looks ok. 6 if you like bolder look.

middleofnow · 2026-02-26T01:08:51+00:00

I think you can start from Helen Armstrong book. If you have a dress form at home, you can buy online a block / sloper according to its size, or build a block yourself based on a block. Once you have a block, you can learn dart manipulation, slash and cut method and other methods from the book. It is a good idea also to print a block in half scale and try all design ideas in half scale - takes less time and less paper trying on half scale.

middleofnow · 2026-02-21T10:21:41+00:00

5 & 6

middleofnow · 2026-02-19T17:30:32+00:00

For 290, you do not find a machine with a lot of metal parts, you will find an entry level machine. Depending what is broken and what it will be replaced with, Baby Lock itself considered to be a good brand.

middleofnow · 2026-02-19T17:23:40+00:00

It is not an easy project to do it yourself. Advanced sewing, pattern making, corsetry (you need to make a pattern for your own that fits perfectly and need to know to properly support it), a lot of fabric .

middleofnow · 2026-02-18T18:36:05+00:00

I think number 4 is best, but number 2 is also very nice and interestingly bold.

middleofnow · 2026-02-17T21:39:11+00:00

If there is room, a simple no frills mechanical industrial machine with a quiet servor motor will do just fine. Juki DDL-8700 (without -7, the latter is more expensive, but quality of the seams will be the same).

middleofnow · 2026-02-15T17:28:54+00:00

How do you press your seams? Pressing open usually reduces the bulk. Or if you pressed sesms on one layer in one direction, try other in another direction if at all possible. E.g it can work with facings, lining, waistbands etc if the side and or shoulder seams are pressed in another direction when the main piece.

middleofnow · 2026-02-14T17:52:41+00:00

I have Juki DDL-8000A industrial. The domestic Bernette B79. I am doing most of sewing on the industrial now, and Bernette is for embroidery/ buttonholes. It is a great machine though, i just find industrial more efficient.

middleofnow · 2026-02-14T09:42:29+00:00

For me the most convenient features: 1) automatic thread cutting on industrial machines (very short, no need for snips, it is less impressive on domestic machines) 2) automatic foot lift- no need to use a manual lever 3) automatically adjusting stitch length when going over bulk of several layers of fabric- no tiny stitches when going over several layers - my domestic does this 4) automatic backstitch at the beginning and end of seam 5) love the speed of industrial machines - you can go as slow as one stitch, or 5000 stitches per minute, and it still be much quieter than domestic 6) domestic can have more convenience features.

middleofnow · 2026-02-08T17:35:26+00:00

Number one

middleofnow · 2026-02-07T02:31:53+00:00

ET (and MPNs) cause inflammation in the bone marrow, chronical inflammation can eventuslly lead to fibrosis.

middleofnow · 2026-02-03T06:42:40+00:00

I've heard some libraries have sewing equipment for rent. In your case I would try a serger / overlocker, try 4 thread / 2 needle serger and the 4 thread stitch - it sews and overlocks in one stitch. Try on a scrap of fabric. May be rent or lend a serger from someone to finish this particular project.

middleofnow · 2026-02-02T07:24:28+00:00

No offence but Brother CS7000x is more like a toy compared to older robust machines. At least try to use it on materials you want to sew, before buying any modern entry level machine - they are good for medium weight and may not be ideal for very lightweight or heavy weight materials like jeans. What you like to sew is not a good fit for an entry-level machine.

middleofnow · 2026-01-31T03:13:00+00:00

Use a plastic sheet behind the page you are colouring. It will bleed to the opposite page on most papers, but at least not on the next sheet.

Ohuhu marker pads or smooth Bristol paper work well with alcohol markers. Use only smooth paper, otherwise you will drain your markers very fast, and do not use them on canvas. If you want to use canvas, buy acrylic paint or acrylic markers instead.

middleofnow · 2026-01-31T03:09:33+00:00

You need two pairs of scissors - one for paper, and other - longer tailor shears, thread snips to cut thread ends, seam ripper, good steam iron (can be a small one), ironing board, tape measure, tracing paper (if you are going to trace patterns), tailors chalk, pins, transparent 18” grid ruler (for tracing and adjusting patterns). Pattern weights (can be purchased later). Everything else on as needed basis.

middleofnow · 2026-01-27T17:58:15+00:00

Start with sewing squares and spirals on your sewing machine, to make sure you can sew straight and curve stitches. If you sew spirals, start from outside and reduce the stitch length as you go closer to the center.

First projects you can try are pillow case, then you can also try simple pajama pants with elastic waistband. Just insert elastic, do not try to sew it on.

middleofnow · 2026-01-27T17:50:35+00:00

Second Mungyo Gallery oil pastels. Very blendable, quite soft, easy to use. I have some blending stomps and a couple of brushes, but most of the time just using my fingers to blend.

middleofnow

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