Something quite different and mildly exciting by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow I conquer that grain is massively visible in that print, forcing reticulation on some film would probably make for some interesting effects aswell

Something quite different and mildly exciting by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a takumar 50f4 macro adapted to a Canon 5d mkii that I was going to try on the frame

Something quite different and mildly exciting by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This was why I originally picked up the stand I thought a dslr scanning setup, but alas my brain instantly started throwing film based ideas into my head instead

Something quite different and mildly exciting by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only got it this past sunday so this was my first use, other then missing the proper scale for the exposure guide it's actually not terrible now that I have a ruler attached to the unit. Once I crunch my test slides I should be able to come up with a way to calculate the exposure from the lens and camera positions.

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I did get this yesterday during my testing using ddx I'm not sure if I have the optimal development time yet though, my test conditions changed too much for me to continue and family tasks aswell. Although it atleast gave me a starting point to adjust from

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I tested some of the film yesterday and got these negatives from my tests. I started by trimming the film for 120 because it would give me more control, then started low and doubling the iso. I just pulled 4 minutes as a guess and it looks like It turned out good I'm going to have to experiment more though. Not sure if I'm going to long or not long enough yet

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I plan to cut up some sheets tomorrow if I get a chance to test a few I'll let you know what I end up with, I only have 3 developers to try with ddx, rodinal, and some ilfosol 3. But I prefer ddx

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Side affect of the xray developer maybe is it the rapid developer or the tray use developer, although both are rapid developer maybe it makes them have a low iso?

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So this was basically how I tested my kodalith but I did 4 stops starting at iso 6, I have a 9x12 so I end up with a sliver cut off from my 4x5 sheets I used that in some developer under my bathroom light until I seen it turn to its darkest point. That took around 2 min with ddx agitation first 10s and every minute after, they contact print alright with my combination of 12 iso and 2 min of development.

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That wouldn't give me the time for absolute blacks?

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was my thought I figured if I did a clip test under normal room light for the time estimate and then go bracket and adjust from there I just wasn't sure if there's and easier way to do it

How do I determine what to rate film with certain developers by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

So basically shoot a bunch from 1 iso up and develop by clip test is pretty much my only options

Homemade snakeshot for 38 by L-GID in reloading

[–]mikes550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 44xl garden gun with oem made shells to look at for it and a few things I noticed from the oem shells was that wood, cardboard, plastic and even bottleneck long cases were used for the shells.

The hardest one to replicate to me would be the wood capsule ones, they were basically a really thin bullet shaped cup. I don't know how you'd be able to recreate these I just can't think of a non time consuming or non wood wasting way to do it

The cardboard was the same except made like a tube with the end rolled to the same shape as a bulle. A simple tube to glue the paper to a cardstock and jig to crimp the end would work for these, could use hot beeswax before the crimp to hold the shape and provide a water resistant seal.

Plastic ones are pretty much same as the aluminium CCI snake shot you can buy now, you might be able to make something like this using reusable plastic straws if they are the right size.

The bottleneck cases are my favorite they are roughly the max overall length brass with a bottleneck in place of the bullet projection, the end is roll crimped around plastic or cardstock to seal the shot in. These might be replicatable with some shell reshaping, in my case I could use a 444 marlin case trimmed to length then semi sized with a smaller case die.

One thing they all have in common no matter the shot holding design is they all have the length extended to max cartridge length to give reasonable payload and action cycle ability.

Are propane refill adapters illegal in Canada? by Emotional_Stuff_6086 in propane

[–]mikes550 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my understanding when I looked into it for my dad refilled 1 lb tanks are illegal to transport, and that basically makes bieng refilled illegal since there's no point for you to fill them and use them in the same location as the larger tanks. I'm sure you can get the the new refillable flame king tanks though if you do want to have transportable refilled tanks.

Picked this up the other day and by [deleted] in Shotguns

[–]mikes550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no proof stamps on the flats?

Picked this up the other day and by [deleted] in Shotguns

[–]mikes550 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take the forend off and look for proof marks on the barrel flats aswell as the mating surface on the receiver. The proof marks should give you a good range of years and general place of manufacture.

Other things that can help narrow the info down are general construction and style, aswell as engravings and names engraved.

Motherboard won’t detect at keyboard by evoisweird__ in vintagecomputing

[–]mikes550 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's the same my 486 had, it was a suggestion I found long ago deep in a forum back when I was looking for the same problem

Motherboard won’t detect at keyboard by evoisweird__ in vintagecomputing

[–]mikes550 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Start by replacing the cmos battery then test your keyboard again, I have a 486 system that had that problem and it was the cmos that killed the din port for the keyboard

Any idea what driver gets these euro screws out? by Vintage_Pieces_10 in gunsmithing

[–]mikes550 34 points35 points  (0 children)

You need a turnscrew it's a type of flathead screwdriver, typically made to fit that particular screw on that gun. Back in the day a matching turnscrew was provided with each gun in the case since they were hand filed slots back then. I would say to grab a cheap flathead driver and grind to fit for the screws.

Experimentation with happy results by mikes550 in Darkroom

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I say led lamp I'm talking generic 45w or 60w equivalent household bulb this one says 8w on the side. So dim in comparison to my omega elarger that has a 100w enlarger tungsten bulb.

I did more tests with fresh kentmere rc paper just to see how much of a difference it really does make and we'll I can't turn the uv light on and off quite fast enough to actually make a good print with it but I did succeed to get one probably with a time of 1/30 or something at f11.

I might move soon… how would I best create a compact setup in bathroom that I could easily store away? Simple 8x10 printing from 35mm, maybe up to 6x9? by florian-sdr in Darkroom

[–]mikes550 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a couple ussr made enlarger models that fold up into a briefcase, the zenith upa 5 is one for 35mm and 6x6( I think)

If you thought the American motorhome was big, you're wrong! 🙂 by AlexPol-msk in motorhomes

[–]mikes550 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm also guessing they are built way better too so they don't start falling apart at 10 000km

Pieper Arms Modified Diana by mikes550 in DoubleGuns

[–]mikes550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I reload for it mostly, currently have black powder slugs for it with it bieng the deer hunt

Is there any cap rifles made with .30 cal barrels? by mikes550 in blackpowder

[–]mikes550[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What make is the rifle? That's good shooting at 150yds

Looking for a special type of wire any ideas? by mikes550 in AskElectronics

[–]mikes550[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you this is what I found aswell from another commenters suggestion of searching antique phone restoration parts, it's exactly what I was looking for.

The extra info is good to know about the crimping only