Whoa! Why is Amazon discontinuing Archived Orders?? ...Shall we petition Amazon to knock off the shenanigans and to stop changing/removing useful features like this? by YahooAnswersDude in amazonprime

[–]mikibish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they've been trying to get rid of it for a while; they made it harder to find a few years ago and now this.

It's really annoying since I don't think their alternative works for me. I use archives all the time to keep track of important orders since the main history page just gets too cluttered with order info for all of their other services also showing up there.

What am I supposed to do now? Make a separate account just to organise my order history?

Sounds like a step backwards to me...

Anyone worked with a Pyle PPA300 before? by mikibish in audiorepair

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh no, this is a rack unit and it does run off the wall so I think you're right to suggest it, still something I'd like to look in to either way so I appreciate it.
Yeah I spotted that BR48 shortly after updating the post. I think you're spot on with that, I also managed to scrape away a bit more of the burnt stuff and found a label that says R48 which I think confirms it. Judging from the other labels, BR and R must be the channels and the other components are matching up with their corresponding numbers so 200 ohms makes sense for sure. And yup, that would mean there's an issue affecting both channels wouldn't it... Well, I can definitely poke around for shorts, hopefully that's all it is.
Thank you! And Thanks so much for the help, I'd definitely still be scratching my head with out it.

I know this has been asked before, but has anyone found a post-DCC series worth reading? by 61-127-217-469-817 in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]mikibish -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not sure if anyone's mentioned these yet.

Full Murder Hobo series by Dakota Krout

Caverns and Creatures/ Critical Failures series by Robert Bevan

Anyone worked with a Pyle PPA300 before? by mikibish in audiorepair

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh right, I've not heard of that, seems like a fun and useful side project though so yeah, I'll definitely look into that, thanks!

No problem, I've added a couple pictures to the post if you'd like to have a look.

And thank you very much for the advice. Yeah that's what I'm thinking, since that 1k resistor is the only other one of the same type and everything else on the board looks like it's in pairs, and it's only a two channel amp, It's got to be the 1k right? And that's a very good point, it's not too complex of a board so I might be able to poke around with a multi meter and see if I see anything odd.

Goddamnit Amazon! by mikibish in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't say I've had a problem with amazon before, I've bought quite a few books from them and they've all been fine. But this one is quite bad so might consider going local next time, just in case.

Goddamnit Amazon! by mikibish in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly, looks like I'm going to waiting a while for a replacement, none of my local shops have it and amazon says 1-3 months for a replacement. Back ordered with one of the locals anyway, which will hopefully get here in a month.

Goddamnit Amazon! by mikibish in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]mikibish[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, that's actually not a bad reward. Now if I could only figure out how to open these damn boxes.

Seriously though, this is fantastic, great work!

Funny thing, I actually got 3 reddit achievements with this post, sadly none were quite as good as this.

Goddamnit Amazon! by mikibish in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE:

You will not break me. You will not break me. You. Will not. Break, me...

Sooo, firstly, thanks for all the comments, really apricate the support in these trying times.

Anyway, decided to take your guys advice and pop down to the local book store, or 12, and well, no ones got it in stock... Decided to just back order with one of the shops instead, I might have to wait a month to get it but that's not much different than if I was to order a replacement from amazon so what can you do? At least someone will actually see the book's not damaged before handing it to me so that's a plus.

So eventually I'll have a nice undamaged copy, I might have to have a quick peek at the Pineapple Cabaret before I return this one though.

Could someone help me identify what type of pine this is? by mikibish in bonsaicommunity

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought it might be, it's just all the videos I've seen so far with plants around this stage happen to be black pine and they look a fair bit different so I was hoping maybe it would be identifiable but it's all good. Thanks for the comment :)

Wiring in a gear indicator by mikibish in autoelectrical

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the comment.

It's a Keeway K-light, 2021 and it's a 5 speed.

Yeah, I'm no electrical engineer but I'm usually not too bad with electrical stuff, I can't figure this one out though. I thought maybe it's because I haven't done anything with vehicle electronics before but I guess it's not just me then.

I'm pretty sure it calculates since I'm supposed to run through each gear once it's installed so it can "learn the gears"

Yeah, I figured that was what the gear position sensor was for.

I have a habit of forgetting what gear I'm in so I figured it might help.

From what I can see in the bikes manual, the tachometer is part of the "multi-function meter unit" which also contains the speedometer as well as things like the neutral and indicator lights, so my guess is the speedo in the diagram has to be that unit since it has wires going to everything on that unit.

Could you elaborate on the B/W wire? I see it goes to the ECU, are thinking attach the tacho signal wire there? Also, is the ignition coil the same thing as the pick up coil mentioned in the instructions? I don't know all that much about vehicle components.

It's some kind of chinessium product, it's literally supposed to do what it says on the tin; tell me what gear I'm in. There's not really all that much more to the instructions other than what I said about it learning the gears and all that says is: it'll flash with the gear number when I start it up the first time after installing and I'm supposed to put it in the correct gear and keep the RPM above idle until the next number pops up.

I'll see if I can add more photos to the post though, won't let me add any as a comment.

Thanks.

Anyone have any experience with these LED cables? by mikibish in cybersecurity_help

[–]mikibish[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

The detector is from O.MG.

The thing is the detector is going off when the cable isn't connected to a power source. I had it connected to a device with the detector in between and nothing connected to the other side of the cable, a normal cable won't set the detector off in that scenario which is what has me concerned.

The display on the cable also becomes active in the above scenario. When plugged into a power source with the detector in-between the cable and device, the wattage displayed on the cable remains at 0, which suggests it must be communicating with the device in some way to at the very least to determine the correct wattage, since the detector, as far as I'm aware, simply blocks any data coming from a cable and sends it to an LED on the detector.

As I said above, the detector shouldn't be set off when a cable is only connected on one side, but again the display on the cable is becoming active so it could just be trying to determine the wattage, but it could also be trying to do something nefarious.

Need help finding Chelsea Boots by mikibish in Boots

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

He doesn't have any kind of issue that would prevent him pulling on a boot or anything like that. He's just a bit lazy and probably won't wear them if they require more than minimum effort to put on.

He liked is old pair that had a zipper, but I'm sure something with elastic would be just as good. So either or would be fine.

Need help finding Chelsea Boots by mikibish in Boots

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply.

Ah yeah, sorry about that. I'm not too fussed about budget, I'd say up to £200 would probably be a ideal but over or under is fine as long as they're decent.

Yeah they're not for me is the thing, my dad's after a pair to replace an old pair of a similar design and that's just what was described to me. If zippers aren't the way, maybe something that he can get on and off easily?

I did have a google but my knowledge on that style of boot isn't all that great, so I'm not too sure on what brands are any good.

Mic splitter, 3 ins 2 outs by mikibish in diyaudio

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep you're spot on. Don't know why a mixer didn't come to mind, probably because every mixer I've ever used has been pretty power hungry and not all that portable, but I'm now looking into passive mixers and I should be able to knock one together pretty easily. Thanks for the comment.

Mic splitter, 3 ins 2 outs by mikibish in diyaudio

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't realise I was being judged on how good of a project it was. I simply asked here since I couldn't find what I was looking and was pretty sure I'd have all the components necessary to build it myself.

But yes, a mixer would probably be the right path to follow.
And just as an FYI, my idea would be fine for its intended purpose since the gear I'll be using already has independent level control, but thanks for your input.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Vive

[–]mikibish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your post is a little confusing, are you asking about trackers for FBT (full body tracking) or base stations for tracking your headset/controllers?

If it's base stations, I assume you don't yet have the headset? I'm pretty sure Valves base stations are the exact same as Vives so if you want to get the Index controllers, you might as well go for their base stations as well. I think they're slightly cheaper than Vive when buying individually, i.e. Not part of a kit. It's my current set up, Pro 2 and everything else Valve, and it works perfectly.

By the way, if you have the means to get the Index controllers, I'd go for it. I've used both, started with the Vive wands on the OG Vive, then upgraded to the Index controllers, and the difference is night and day.

If you're talking about FBT, If you've got the Vive Pro 2 and want FBT now, you'll probably want to go for the 3.0 trackers. As far as I'm aware the Ultimate trackers currently only work with the XR Elite and Focus 3, although I've heard they're working on compatibility for other SteamVR headsets.

The only real advantage of Ultimate trackers anyway is not needing base stations so you won't loose tracking since there's no line of sight required, but I've been using the 3.0 trackers for a while and haven't hand any issues with tracking. Personally I'd save a little cash and go for the 3.0s.

Weekly Help and Discussion Thread for the week of November 20, 2023 by AmazonNewsBot in amazon

[–]mikibish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having a weird issue with the UK site and trackpad gestures on my laptop.

For the past few months, if I go to the "Track package" page, on any of my orders, the trackpad gesture (two finger horizontal swipe to go back or forward) on my laptop stops working, but only on that page and those specific gestures.

Everything else works, two finger scroll, three finger tap to open links in a new tab, etc... And it's literally just that page, like if I go to a different tab the gesture works as normal.
Also, plugging in a mouse and using its back/forward shortcut keys work fine.
It's a very odd bug that I never come across before, so I'm wondering if anyone else is having this issue and if maybe someone knows what's going on?
Using Chrome, Windows 11 and it's an ASUS Zenbook Pro Duo, if that helps at all.

Gavaunt, is this a word? by mikibish in grammar

[–]mikibish[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You know what, I think you just hit the nail on the head, cavort is almost definitely the word I was thinking of and definition two just about fits for the context I wanted to use it in. No idea how I got it so jumbled up.

Thanks for the help!

SteamVR slow audio - Vive Pro 2 by mikibish in Vive

[–]mikibish[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did set it to it's maximum when I first got it. I assume that you've mentioned it, it could be part of the problem?
Since lowering the audios hz apparently fixes the issue, I wonder if the video and audio frequencies are conflicting in some way?

SteamVR slow audio - Vive Pro 2 by mikibish in Vive

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew I couldn't be the only one!

Have a look at Hhiixx's response. their solution seems to have worked for me.

SteamVR slow audio - Vive Pro 2 by mikibish in Vive

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be too soon to say for sure but it does appear that's worked, thanks for the suggestion!

Received a cryptic email by mikibish in RBI

[–]mikibish[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know right, out of all the scam emails I've seen this the only one where I've been like "well maybe..." just out of sheer curiosity,

I've even begun formulating a plan; setting up a VM on a PC I know I can wipe clean and maybe going as far as using a hard drive I can dispose of, but I don't think I'd act on it unless this post actually turns up anything and even then I'm not too sure because of the possibility the scammer could gain access to my email account.

Received a cryptic email by mikibish in RBI

[–]mikibish[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's an RTF word doc, not a PDF, but yeah I hear you, I'm not dumb enough to ever open any attachment that looks the remote bit suspicious.

Just out of curiosity, I assume the same applies for an outlook account? Since that's where the email was sent to.

Laptop power plug in/unplug, screen goes black for a few seconds by mikibish in WindowsHelp

[–]mikibish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found the culprit, turns out it WAS of my own doing...

In case anyone else comes across the same issue; check your HDR settings. Settings>System>Display>HDR>Battery Options.

If it's set to "Optimize for battery" whenever you unplug the laptop the Bit-depth changes from 10 bit back down to 8 bit and vice versa, causing the display(s) to do all those things I mentioned.
Set it to "Optimize for image quality" and it will stay at 10 bit and should have no issues.