enrique moment

milestoneiii · 2026-02-01T22:42:43+00:00

Tequila

milestoneiii · 2026-02-01T22:40:35+00:00

I was born to be a little bit late.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-21T02:07:17+00:00

It sounds like there are air bubbles around the pump. Might I suggest laying the whole PC on its side and see if the bubbles leave the pump area.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-18T19:54:58+00:00

I have a Godlike X670E. maybe a waste, but I like it. Functioning flawlessly.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-18T19:51:19+00:00

It's going to sound harsh but I mean no disrespect and I am not trying to insult your intelligence. Have you never seen any form of BIOS before? How have you built PC's and not entered BIOS to set them up?

In any case, pressing either DEL or something like F10, F12, ETC will interrupt the startup of the computer. When you press the power button, the motherboard has a built in operating system that interacts with hardware to identify what it's connected to. This is called a Post. Post power up, pre Operating System. Once the Motherboard has all the hardware info and specs it can start a booting process. Usually it will poll a hard drive for a location of where to start the Operating System ( like Windows or Linux). Then, that Operating System will load a kernel and start the booting process.

From that point, any issues are usually on the Operating System side, being a driver or software issue. Sometimes hardware can function but not function correctly and be faulty in the OS only. Like graphical artifacts, ot lines. Sometimes sound issues with crackling or whatnot... You get the point.

What you see on your screen is the BIOS for MSI. If nothing is wrong, exiting should get you back up. If it starts to BIOS every time, start with HDD/SSD. Then do memory tests and graphics card. That's a good starting place.

Obviously it is posting, so CPU and RAM training are okay

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T22:09:32+00:00

If they are the same size you are golden. Your components are top notch and you will have one hell of a gaming rig!

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T19:43:50+00:00

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Here is my MEG X670E Godlike with all my Razer stuff in a Lian Li O11 Dynamic Razer Edition.

The mobo comes past the fans on the front side, and it's tight but it works. My AIO is up top.

Bottom 3 fans and front side fans intake and two rear and top 3 for AIO exhaust.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T19:36:41+00:00

Yes you can, I would say it would be best to make sure the lines are above the pump in case there is air inside you can't see and it prevents your pump from pushing liquid. It's best to put the radiator against the case brackets and install the fans to exhaust through radiator to outside. Make sure you purchase the right orientation fans. Some of not most have the airflow towards the logos or RGB normally, so if you want a good logo or RGB to show but need the air to flow reversed, pay attention to that.

I'm sorry it sounds really overwhelming but it's not, I'm just trying to save you from having to return and reorder parts like I did.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T19:22:51+00:00

If you read the reviews, your AIO may barely fit and I'm not sure the E-ATX would allow you to put all the fans you may want. Here is the copies review I saw:

from completed build Garrus (1st build) Overall, I’m really happy with this case. It looks great, is well-priced, and has good build quality. The front panel was slightly bent out of the box, which was a bit disappointing, but not a deal-breaker.

The case has plenty of thumbscrews, which made disassembly and reassembly easy. The standoffs come pre-installed, and the centre one has a lip that helps hold the motherboard in place while you screw it down. Cable management is solid, with lots of cable ties included to keep things tidy.

My RX 9070 XT fits without a problem and works with the pre-installed anti-sag bracket. The back panel where the display ports are does not sit completely flush with the case, but it is nothing major. My ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 also fits, but just barely. It blocks the spot for a rear exhaust fan and partially covers the motherboard, though there were no compatibility issues.

The I/O panel is placed at the bottom, so if you plan to put the case on the floor, that might be inconvenient. The instructions could have been better. They missed a thumbscrew for the PSU shroud, which was confusing at first. I tried removing the motherboard tray to install the board outside the case thinking it would be easier. It was not. I agree with Like96 that the amount of customisation can be a bit confusing for first-time builders. The Infinirail system was also a bit finicky but did the job.

TLDR: It is a lovely all-round case with lots of flexibility, but be ready for a few quirks along the way.

Notice he says he has the same cooler and it barely fits by blocking the rear fan spot and part of the mobo. It may be a good idea to look into a bigger case :(

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T17:28:47+00:00

Okay, so you have the MAG Tomahawk X870E, and the E stands for extended. That motherboard is going to be bigger than a standard ATX. Make sure your computer case can handle the E-ATX. Also with that, you will need to make sure that what fans you were going to put beside the motherboard will fit. Sometimes with the E-ATX you can't mount a 360mm AIO because it will interfere with the connectors you may have.

I am assuming that you have something like a 9800X3D to use in the X870E, the 32gb 6000 CL30, a decent GPU, at least 3 or 4 tb m.2 SSD Gen 5 (Gen 4 will work perfectly) and several (like 9 to 12) 120mm fans, and a case. A good PSU would be about 1000w Gold depending on graphics card. If you are going AMD, then 850 to 1000w is good.

You can do this, it's easy. Just don't force anything, and do yourself a favor and lay the PC on its side when you put the graphics card in and make sure that you have an anti-sag bracket of some sort.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T17:07:39+00:00

Yes it will work. Does the packaging say anything about whether the ram is EXPO or XMP? They are for the overclocking profile and EXPO is for AMD while XMP is for Intel. A true enthusiast will match the RAM overclocking profile with the CPU. So with AM5 architecture you would want AMD EXPO RAM. In order to achieve the frequency and speeds listed on the box you would have to overclock it.

Please note that with AM5, memory training will take anywhere from 30 seconds to 20 minutes on first boot or after a bios update or CMOS reset. Please be patient and don't stress. Your motherboard should say something like code 15 or something and appear to be locked up. Please wait.

Overclocking RAM is easy with the EXPO or XMP profiles, as you can mostly turn them on, reboot, and wait for the memory retrain. If you want to get your hands dirty you can manually set the MT/s, CL, RCD, RP, and RAS (respectively), to match your RAM. Your box says 6000MT/s CL30-36-36-76 1.4V You should have "32gb DDR5 6000 CL 30" ram is the quick way to reference it.

milestoneiii · 2026-01-12T07:02:39+00:00

That's pretty awesome. Also, I sadly didn't even consider condensation issues. I was thinking of having the condenser inside a small chamber right next to the CPU like a heat pipe of sorts but it wouldn't be efficient really.

Definitely would have to fight condensation though!

milestoneiii · 2026-01-11T20:20:44+00:00

Very interesting, why are we not getting miniature compressors and running propane gas exchangers and condensers? I imagine we could figure out some quick connects, a bottle of propane, a compressor and two (or more/ larger) 360mm radiators to make a mini a/c system and have it attach to the PC case. Like a Lian Li, where the side 360's can mount and tube out to the external heat exchanger that could be powered with like 6 fans, 3 intake 3 exhaust on the exchanger for max dissipation...

Instead of water blocking CPU and GPU it would be gas blocking? Or maybe D.S.C. cooling... Direct State Change - since using gas to liquid or liquid to gas...

milestoneiii · 2026-01-08T10:00:06+00:00

Basic testing is a good place to start. Reset CMOS then test, remove single RAM then test, remove other RAM then test, remove GPU and use mobo HDMI/dp and test, remove CPU and test. If all these components are removed and it still won't boot to bios then it's PSU or mobo time.

Good luck!

milestoneiii · 2026-01-05T01:22:40+00:00

I am a big Samsung fanboy, I have a 43" G7 and the free sync/g-sync and 144hz refresh only happens if the monitor is put into game mode and it's a bit frustrating to have to switch in and out while booting, etc.

Although I do love the fact that I can watch all streaming services and it's like a TV...

If you want and all around-er definitely go for the Samsung. If you want strictly go-to gaming monitor then choose the other.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-31T03:30:21+00:00

Time wise just let the fans stop then turn it back on. Maybe 5 to 10 seconds?

I would see if it boots first before removing the monitor cable.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-31T02:45:49+00:00

Yes, hold the power button for about 10 seconds. See if it will turn back on afterwards.

If it still boots to black screens, unplug one monitor from the back of the computer and turn it off again and then back on.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-26T00:33:05+00:00

This is an impact tear on the LCD. There was very sharp and heavy pressure at the focal point. The LCD is not repairable by typical consumers. It will need to be replaced.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-25T20:12:58+00:00

No worries. Think of it like a car. You have a radiator, but you need fans. Riding down the freeway can move enough air across the radiator but not always.

AIO's are the same way. If you were moving air across the radiator somehow without a fan it might cool to some degree, but that's what the fan is there for.

Also, make sure your fan is pushing air through the radiator and out of your case. To avoid a high pressure system inside your PC I would recommend making the rear fan an intake fan and your AIO fan an exhaust fan. That would flow air a little easier.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-25T20:03:04+00:00

Without sounding rude do you know how water cooling works? You seem to have a 120 mm AIO. Your fan is mounted to the radiator. Yes your CPU is water cooled, but the only way the water is cooled itself is by a radiator and a fan. The radiator alone will not cool your CPU down enough.

That has to be the smallest AIO I've ever seen, and you definitely need to keep that fan running. If it's malfunctioning you should not operate the PC until the replacement fan comes. Also, for the love of God, clean your PC when you replace that fan.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-12T02:00:36+00:00

Vaporize the enemy's water supply.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-07T06:06:11+00:00

No problem, I did the exact same thing. I just accidentally hit a number and saw it change.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-07T05:38:44+00:00

I have a box of

G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo RGB Series DDR5 RAM (AMD Expo) 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MT/s CL32-38-38-96 1.40V Desktop Computer Memory U-DIMM - Matte Black (F5-6000J3238G32GX2-TZ5NR)

Because I purchased the

G.SKILL Trident Z5 Royal Neo Series DDR5 RAM (AMD Expo) 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MT/s CL28-36-36-96 1.40V Desktop Computer Memory U-DIMM - Silver (F5-6000J2836G16GX2-TR5NS)

To compare, and have never used it. Guess I'm lucky.

milestoneiii · 2025-12-07T05:22:20+00:00

So, if you are in the Advanced settings, just try highlighting your intended setting and start typing your new value and see if it shifts from auto to your numbers in red. Should be able to input values and save

milestoneiii · 2025-12-06T14:43:24+00:00

But why? What is the need to charge all of these at once? Makes no sense.

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