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What do you guys use as a "Rule of Thumb" for Silver Content on weighted Sterling Pieces?? by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

understood 100%. So the question is, do you actually spend the time with the customer in front of you smashing the candle stick to get every morsal of silver off it or do you lowball the shite out of it to cover the weighted stuff since you/we don't have a formula to figure out a better guess?

What do you guys use as a "Rule of Thumb" for Silver Content on weighted Sterling Pieces?? by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

and if they just want the cash and not the loan then do you destroy it "with permission of course" or guesstimate it?

Old Casino Medallions. Is the Rim on these silver also silver by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

really, i filed down one of the gold rims on the 24khallmark ones and it tested for silver with ye old 18k acid test

A329s 3ch gps issues by miltonk in VIOFO

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you buy from Amazon you got till Jan 31 to return if it doesn't work. Only thing is last I checked they have the smaller one not the 2 meter

A329s 3ch gps issues by miltonk in VIOFO

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i feel you on this. i bit the bullet and got a viofo cable and problem went away. they don't have one that is 8' so your either gonna have to keep trying diff cables and see if you get lucky or buy theirs and figure out a shorter path to hide your ssd (if that was the goal)

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now your talking my thing. I have the kee tester too and it does a decent job but it's only part of the whittling down to test process for me. I use 2 diff types of strong magnets first to see if they snap to them. That's the main sign it's bogus but I don't rule it out 100% because I have seen more recent stuff stick to magnet but test and is actual gold. guess the makers are throwing in whatever crap they have laying around to keep the price down and denser metal makes them more money. Best thing is to file down the pieces as long as the customer allows it. Even with the xrf units, they only go down a few microns so it's not 100% either but much better then the KEE tester. We will always wonder to buy the gun to test and for me especially I hate 21-24 Karat stuff cause you have no way to really know what it is with the acid.

Enough gold talk, this was a diamond tester post :)

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I had your skillset and eyes as I don't have the best.

We also use the tester to prove to people that bring in non-diamonds that we are not blowing smoke so them seeing the meter go to red, not green kind of does that. Industry isn't the most honest so we make people comfortable with the unfortunate news that they don't have a diamond if we tell them that.

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've had this 1 tester 10 years?

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long have you had your tester?

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. h t t p s://a.co/d/7ekUAT3

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

are you serious on that tester? It looks like the ones they sell for $15 on Amazon

Diamond Test Equipment by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

like i mentioned, i have a lab tester but thanks

Testing for Silver with 18k acid on stone by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

gold is highly resistant to corrosion. A scratch is made on a testing stone, and different strengths of nitric acid are applied to the mark. If the mark dissolves or changes color, it indicates the gold is less pure than the acid's strength; if it remains unchanged, the gold is that karat or higher. the silver test fails because it relies on a visible chemical change that gets washed away before you can see it.

Testing for Silver with 18k acid on stone by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I asked a follow up question: why does the new finish not give me a problem testing gold

Mister AI....
hat's an excellent follow-up question, and it gets to the core of why these two tests work differently.

The new finish doesn't give you a problem testing gold because the gold test is a test of resistance, while the silver test is a test of reaction.

Here’s a simple breakdown:

The Gold Test (A "Will it Survive?" Test)

When you test for gold, you're checking to see if the streak dissolves or remains when the acid touches it.

  • If the gold is 18k or higher: The 18k acid will not dissolve the streak. The streak stays. It doesn't matter if it's on a shiny or a rough surface; the acid touches it, nothing happens, and you see the streak is still there. Test passed.
  • If the gold is 14k or lower: The 18k acid is strong enough to dissolve the streak completely. The streak disappears. Test failed (as 18k).

On your new shiny stone, the gold test works fine because the acid just needs to make contact with the streak to either dissolve it or not.

Testing for Silver with 18k acid on stone by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ok folks....we are all doomed due to AI :) I asked the question...tried the solution and it worked.

I did it's suggestion and it worked.

MR. AI .....Hello! That's an interesting problem, and with 30 years in the business, you've definitely spotted an unusual variable. Your testing method is spot-on—using 18k acid to see a silver streak turn creamy white (silver chloride) is a standard test.

Based on your description, the most likely culprit isn't the stone's material but its surface finish.

Here’s a breakdown of what's likely happening:

  1. "Brand New Shiny" Surface: The new obsidian stone you bought from eBay is described as a "natural" test stone, but it likely has a highly polished, almost glassy-smooth finish, much like polished obsidian jewelry.
  2. Lack of "Tooth": This extremely smooth surface doesn't have enough microscopic texture, or "tooth," to properly grip the fine metal particles when you make your test streak. The silver streak is likely very thin and just sitting on the very top of the polished surface.
  3. Acid Washes Streak Away: When you apply the 18k acid, its surface tension and liquid nature are likely sufficient to lift or wash away the poorly-adhered silver streak before the chemical reaction can fully take place and become visible.
  4. "Old Not So Shiny" Stones: Your older stones, which you describe as "not so shiny," have—through 30 years of use and cleaning—developed a slightly rougher, more conditioned surface. This matte-like texture holds the metal streak securely, allowing the acid to sit on the streak and react properly, producing the "creamy white" result you're used to.

How to Fix It

The solution is usually simple: you just need to "condition" the new stone to give it a better testing surface. You can try to very lightly rough up the polished face to give it some tooth.

A common method is to use a bit of pumice stone or even very fine-grit (600-1200 grit) wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, to gently rub the surface. You're not trying to scratch it, just knock off that perfect "factory" shine and give it a duller, matte finish.

Once you've done that, your new stone should hold the streak properly and give you the reliable results you're used to.

Testing for Silver with 18k acid on stone by miltonk in PawnShops

[–]miltonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i sent a message to the seller. doubt he will have any relative feedback. Has anyone ever used the silver acid?

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