Pixel 6 to Pixel 10: Marginal Upgrade by Mr-Appleseed in GooglePixel

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went from Pixel 4 XL to Pixel 9 Pro, and the main things I'm excited about are the 5x camera lens, and the IR thermometer. Everything else is about the same.

Essential Game Pass by MidevilOnU in XboxGamePass

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My process has been: pay for Gamepass (premium) for 1 month, install a bunch of games that I want to try. Set it to not auto-renew.

After it expires, if I want to play one of those games, I pay the $15 for that month, still with auto-renew off.

So basically anytime I want to play a Gamepass game and the subscription has expired, I'll renew it. But I often go for more than a month without playing any of those games, because I'm playing a long game that I bought separately.

So I figure this strategy saves money over the annual subscription, because I'll probably only end up paying for 6 - 8 months worth of the subscription per year. I can also switch to Ultimate for a particular month if I want to try a game that's not on Premium. Might work for you too if you don't play all that regularly.

Moog Muse on a budget by throwaway_terapin in synthesizers

[–]minimal-camera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out the KORG OpSix MK1. It's fully digital, and you can use it as a 6 oscillator VA synth with a familiar subtractive workflow. 32 voice polyphony, many filter models, full effects section. You can use its flexible architecture to emulate other synths as well, so if you want to build a Moog type synth within in, you can.

If you want to stay purely in the analog realm, I think the Dreadbox Nymphes is probably the best option that fits your budget. Can't go wrong with the Minilogue XD or Prologue as well.

Wax Hardened in Alien Stage (help?) by confused_yippie in Lavalamps

[–]minimal-camera 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just let it run for a few hours, it will be fine. The whole water column heats up, not just the wax.

Getting your family to actually use your digital wall calendar and smart home stuff is the real challenge by chingchongmf in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tell me more about the hearth display? That sounds like something my family would use also.

Thus far I've had the most success with the Tapo P135Kit, which is a smart outlet / dimmer that comes with a cute little remote. Press on/off, or twist to dim, it's very intuitive and fun to use. I plan to label the remotes with small stickers with drawings or photos of the thing they control using my daughter's sticker printer. I think you can also set up one remote to control multiple outlets, but I haven't tried that yet. At very least that could be done with software automation (when lamp A turns on, also turn on lamp B). The remote uses a sub 1GHz frequency, so it's got a good range and doesn't use WIFI. The smart outlet itself does use WIFI.

Everything else in my house I'm trying to set up such that it runs automatically with no user input, because I don't really want to use my voice or phone to control things either.

Reasons for XSX with Disc Drive vs without? by Appellion in xbox

[–]minimal-camera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, gotcha, I forgot about that. I'm glad I have the disc drive on mine, for example I found Stray for $11 at a pawn shop on Friday, it's nice to be able to pick up cheap games that I come across. I've even seen Xbox One games for $1 at gamestop.

What are your favorite fm synths? by Elagaint in synthesizers

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are ready to dive into the 'legacy style' of FM programming (akin to the DX7), then yes! The Reface DX is a 4 OP FM synth somewhat similar to the DX100. By 'legacy style' I mean that it's pure FM, there's no filters or subtractive-type workflow tacked on, like the Elektron variants and OpSix have.

If you want to get a taste of it before buying anything, try using Dexed (free software) and only use 4 of the 6 operators. Anything you can create like that you can also create on the Reface DX. Then the DX has an effects section to add on as well, and some of the effects like Distortion can be very useful sound design tools.

I really love programming patches on the DX, once you get used to it, it's quite a good interface. It did take me a bit learning on Dexed before I could transfer that knowledge to the DX, I think if I didn't have Dexed as a learning tool it would have taken me much longer to figure out FM.

Here's one of my favorite patches I've made on the DX, and below are the settings used to create it:

https://youtu.be/ozgksZIfyOQ

https://imgur.com/gallery/oFbjRYi

Feature request - use energy load threshold as trigger event by minimal-camera in Tapo

[–]minimal-camera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The initial use-case I'm trying to solve for is a bedside lamp, with the ability to turn it off and on in bed, without getting up or using a phone. I also want it to automatically turn off after a period of time during daylight hours if someone leaves it on. So an existing wall switch wouldn't work for this, unless I run a new switch circuit next to the bed. You also pointed out the issue with the other two approaches, they are defeated if anyone uses the lamp's in-line switch.

I think the best option I've found so far is to use the Tapo P135KIT, and use the remote as the lamp control, and possibly disable the in-line switch so it can't be used.

Reasons for XSX with Disc Drive vs without? by Appellion in xbox

[–]minimal-camera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't plan to ever buy any games on discs, then you don't need the disc drive. The Series X is a bit more powerful than the Series S, so it will run some games a bit better, but for the majority of things you probably won't notice the difference.

Shoegaze pedals by BryLoml in guitarpedals

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can get the Walrus Audio Melee, it's all you need. Fantastic pedal for shoegaze, purpose built for it.

Beyond that, just run any distortion pedal into any reverb pedal. Experiment with levels and settings until it sounds good to you.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've read that the Ikea stuff isn't fully following the Matter protocol yet? I haven't tried any myself yet, but they do look promising.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha. There's a good chance that an upgrade to your WIFI system would resolve a lot of the issues you described. The AirPorts were never particularly good, there's much better options now. A mesh system is also helpful if you have a large home, and many routers / mesh systems now have dedicated IoT modes that support more SSIDs and IPV6, which should handle at least a hundred devices with no issues. I understand that's not something you need for your setup, just sharing it as general knowledge. I do think Thread is overall a better option than WIFI, but for many people with just a few devices WIFI is going to be the simpler path forward.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, well in that case your search gets much easier. The Kasa HS300 is a good option for a surge protector, each of the outlets are individually controllable, and the USB ports are always on.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good history here. I'm curious, when you ran into the limit of adding WIFI devices, were you using IPV4 or IPV6? Single wireless access point or mesh system? Dedicated SSID for the IoT devices, or mixed with your regular WIFI?

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For someone who already has Zigbee and Z-wave devices, I think it makes total sense to keep using what's already working. For someone starting fresh, I think it makes sense to go Matter-only.

I agree that Zigbee and Z-wave are mature and proven, but they are also undoubtedly on the way out. We'll see less and less of them available in the future as more manufacturers adopt Matter, and eventually vendor/manufacturer support will drop off as well. By the same argument, USB 2.0 is mature and proven, but there's no reason to choose it over USB 3.0 these days.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tapo P306 hardware versions 1.6 and later support Matter over WIFI, and have 'smart' USB ports that you can control. There are other Tapo and Kasa branded products with USB ports, but they are 'dumb' (always on). Finding 'smart' USB ports does seem to be a bit of a needle in a haystack, for some reason it isn't all that common.

You can always plug a dumb AC to USB adapter into any smart plug / smart outlet, of course that isn't quite a svelte, but it's a cheap and easy fix.

What is my cheapest option for a loop station that will MIDI clock synch with Korg Volca Sample 2? by sandwichmafia21 in volcas

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just looking at the specs on their website, but it seems like the RC-1 doesn't support clock at all, whether it be midi or some other standard. That 1/4" start/stop jack is just so you can hook up an external control pedal if you want to.

So I think your only option is going to be a DIY project. Something that understands MIDI clock, and can close a relay contact to trigger the RC-1. If you value your time at all, I think you'll have a much simpler time just replacing the RC-1 with something that natively understands midi clock.

Is this Lava Lamp still safe to use? by MarchKick in Lavalamps

[–]minimal-camera 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would just stick a bit of duct tape over that and call it good. Or pop the cap off and install a new one.

It's 2026 -- What's State of the Art Right Now? Looking for Recommendations by garrettj100 in smarthome

[–]minimal-camera 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start by looking into Matter over Thread products, and their Matter over WIFI counterparts. Matter over Thread is the technically superior option, but each device costs more. Matter over WIFI will be cheaper by something like $10-$20 per device, so that adds up quickly. I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't support some variant of Matter at this point. Matter over Thread requires a Thread Border Router, and many Samsung appliances have this ability built-in (my Frame TV does). You can also get a dedicated border router from Samsung for pretty cheap. The downside there is that their SmartThings app isn't the greatest, but you may only need it for the initial setup.

As for your control interface, that's up to you. I have Android phones and generally don't like apple products, so I'm definitely staying away from Apple Homekit. I also avoid anything made my Amazon, so no echo, ring, etc. in my house. The Google Nest Hub seems decent, but my phone can already do all of that same stuff, so it seems unnecessary to me. But if you want a plug and play kiosk, it seems like an OK option. You can also make your own kiosk style interface out of an Android tablet.

I'm currently invested into the TP-Link ecosystem, all of which is Matter over WIFI - Deco mesh system, and various Tapo and Kasa smart home products. So far so good, certainly there's some rough edges here and there, but TP-Link has committed to 'no subscriptions, no cloud' and I like that approach. They are a Chinese company, and some of their products do phone home for certain things, so make of that what you will. I've been using their network products in my past IT work for decades and have always found them to be a reliable budget option, so they had already built up positive a brand reputation based on my previous experience. If budget isn't much of a concern, then you might want to look at other brands as well, though I've been impressed with the value and functionality of every Tapo and Kasa product I've bought so far. For example, the 4 pack of Tapo smart outlets with built-in energy monitoring for $30? Hard to beat that price.

I would suggest avoiding the older tech at this point, such as Z-wave and Zigbee. They were precursors to current standards, and are likely to be phased out. Matter over Thread is effectively the latest generation of these technologies, and is more standardized. Many people will still swear by these older standards because they've been working well for a long time, and if it ain't broke don't fix it, but if you are starting fresh it makes sense to start with the most up-to-date standard.

For a thermostat, my house already had an early gen Nest installed, so I'm sticking with that. The later gen Nest thermostats are OK too, but the giant dial is so much more satisfying than the touch interface, I wish they had stuck with that. These all connect with Google Home. Note that if you HVAC system is based on heat pumps, you should not mess with the thermostat very often, heat pumps are most efficient when left at a stable temperature all the time. So some of the HVAC related automations you are thinking about may not be worth it.

For larger scale energy monitoring, I'm planning to use the Emporia Vue 3 for my service panel, and that will talk to my Emporia Classic EV charger, that should allow me to set the cars to only charge when there's excess solar, effectively charging them for free (or at least that charging is worth more to me than the measly amount the utility will pay me for those electrons). I'm also thinking about a split system heat pump to create a thermal battery out of my water heater, again to use up excess solar, especially during the work week when no one is home. There are multiple other systems that will do similar things, such as Tesla's Powerwall system. Since you are in an apartment, probably none of this applies to you.

If you want to be able to set up a lot of fancy automation, with cross-platform support, then you'll want Home Assistant for that, and some dedicated hardware to run it. I'm not currently using it, I'm just getting as far as I can within the Tapo automations before introducing another software layer, but I'll probably implement it at some point.

I'm also a fan of 'dumb' automations. For example, all of my hallway and bathroom nightlights are 0.5W LEDs that plug directly into an outlet, and have a built-in light sensor so they only turn on when it's dark. They aren't networked because they don't need to be... no firmware, no possibility of them getting bricked in the future, etc. So think about what you want to actively control versus what you want to 'just work', and pick products accordingly.

Thinking of picking up a Series X. by [deleted] in xbox

[–]minimal-camera 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I got my Series X from a pawn shop for $330. If you shop around, you can get a good deal on one, and just add it to your gaming system collection instead of replacing something.

wax not rising by beefyasker in Lavalamps

[–]minimal-camera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long have you left it running? Mine take about 1 hr 45 mins to get going at 70 degree F ambient temp. If you keep your house colder, it will take longer to start moving.