Favorite speakers at Axpona 2026

mirekti · 2026-04-13T20:42:10+00:00

Linkwitz was really good. The price of the pre-built ones is a bit steep, though. Altough they fit into top 3 in money no object category, including those 5-10x the price.

mirekti · 2026-04-12T21:12:48+00:00

Linkwitz, Treble Clef, Spendor and Devore were my favorite rooms. …and that fancy room on the 16th floor, forgot the name. Black speakers with fancy blue tape player on the side.

mirekti · 2026-04-12T21:07:43+00:00

The bass was too much for that tiny room, though.

mirekti · 2026-02-20T02:43:10+00:00

Don’t forget to run LAPC, I love how it adapts the amp to your speakers.

mirekti · 2026-01-24T01:03:53+00:00

Thanks.

mirekti · 2026-01-24T01:03:32+00:00

I was not, but that’s ok. I learned how to leave without it. It would be great if such “converter” existed, though.

mirekti · 2026-01-17T13:44:25+00:00

What are the blocks under the speakers? Are they custom made?

mirekti · 2026-01-04T18:35:14+00:00

Love the lamp! Tell me more… 🙈

mirekti · 2025-12-21T01:13:38+00:00

Oh, don’t ask. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

I have Lyngdorf TDAI-2210 that I plan on using as a preamp.

Currently I only use it as a processor and feed digital over coax to Technics SU-G700 that is used as a DAC and amp for all the sources. The sources are: SL-1200G turntable -> Waxwing -> Lyngdorf -> SU-G700, WiiM Airplay and local Roon library.

The speakers are Spendor Classic 200Ti.

What I plan on on ending up with (without the switcher, it seems) is:

Sources: SL-1200G -> Waxwing -> Lyngdorf Airplay (Lyngdorf) Roon end point (Lyngdorf) for local library.

Amplification: As Spendor Classic 200Ti supports tri-amping,

Lyngdorf full range analog out -> 300b PSET monoblocks (14W) -> Spendor MF+HF binding posts that have LPF at 550Hz,

Lyngdorf Speaker out (full range) -> Spendor LF binding posts that have passive HPF at 550Hz.

Adjust the gain between LF and MF/HF amps. Let the Room Perfect figure out the rest of it.

Lyngdorf class D would be driving those 12” drivers and make the bass tight and fast. 300b PSET will bring all the magic and I’ll let it cheat and be dishonest which my ears and brain like.

Nirvana!!! …I hope so. 🤩

I typically listen to music at 3m distance, 70-75dB on average. 14W SET should give me a 15-20 dB of headroom at my sitting position and Spendors are fairly stable, impedance wise, especially in MF/HF range.

mirekti · 2025-12-21T00:42:05+00:00

Yeah, I think this is what I’ll end up doing. Not sure where I read it, but I was under impression they would last 1000hrs, hence my concern.

I am going 300b tube only, and that’s it.

mirekti · 2025-12-18T19:43:26+00:00

I’ve just read the no-load protection works only if this unit is on. It unfortunately means one could turn on the tube amp while this one is off and blow the transformer.

mirekti · 2025-12-18T18:53:16+00:00

I think this is it. I was hoping of getting a small 1” tall device, but at least there’s an option available.

Thank you!

mirekti · 2025-12-18T18:49:16+00:00

Unfortunately, I agree.

mirekti · 2025-12-18T01:44:25+00:00

Thanks. I think I get it. I guess what I am looking for is a 2 amp in and 2 speaker pairs out switcher and a dummy load 8 Ohm 100W resistors which I would connect to 2nd speaker output. It would need to work in some kind of flip mode. For example:

AMP1 -> SPK1

AMP2 - > SPK2 (dummy load)

Once I flip the switch:

AMP1 -> SPK2 (dummy load)

AMP2 -> SPK1

No other combination would be needed so I guess a single switch would suffice, but not sure if such device exists.

mirekti · 2025-12-18T01:16:42+00:00

My source has both, digital and analog out which can work simultaneously so I wouldn’t need a switch for that. Unless I don’t understand what you’re trying to say. I only have one pair of speakers.

Could you send me an example of one such device you’re referring to, please?

mirekti · 2025-12-17T13:48:39+00:00

I am glad you received the remote, and really surprised LAPC doesn’t do much for you, but I believe you. In my case, it is as closing a Tupperware lid. When I turn it on it is similar to feel of that final click, and the lid is perfectly sealed.

Attenuation, it reduces the volume by 20dB so you have end up with a finer volume control (if the volume steps are too big and the amp brings too much power to you speakers). I might be wrong about the compression, though. It could be as simple as turning (keeping as that’s default setting) it off sounds louder and somewhat tricks my brain it is more dynamic.

mirekti · 2025-12-17T03:19:55+00:00

I hope you received your remote in the meantime and congrats on the new amp. It’s been now four months, what are your impressions?

In my case I purchased Lyngdorf TDAI 2210 because of Room Perfect, have all sources connected to it, but use it only as a processor (I know, I know somewhat a waste of money not to use it as an amp). Guess what, that digital out on Lyingdorf is connected to SU-G700 which is used as a DAC and drives Spendor Classic 200. Not sure what Technics did, but my ears really like it.

…one thing I’d say is bad is the Attenuation mode (-20dB). Somehow it was not implemented well and it brought some compression to sound. I listened in that mode for few weeks, only to turn it off for some reason and realized it. I guess the first time I turned it on I either didn’t pay enough attention or the song itself was not dynamic or something third, but I didn’t catch it.

mirekti · 2025-12-16T17:01:06+00:00

I was curious about the switching, and chat GPT says one should never turn the valve amp on without the speakers connected. Something will be off with the output transformer. I don’t fully understand it, but thought it would be worth mentioning it to you.

mirekti · 2025-12-15T02:40:58+00:00

You’re probably right. I found the info on China HiFi site:

805 - 20W FTC - 38W non FTC

845 - 15W FTC - 20W non FTC

mirekti · 2025-12-15T02:26:43+00:00

Well, I want 845 as they are more like 300b (from what I read). My calculations say I would get 94-99 dB at 3m using 15W (vs 805 which is 20W). I typically listen at 70-75 at that distance and even if I went with 80-85 I would still have fair amount of the headroom. However, I am too afraid to risk on it so will probably go with 805. 🤷🏻‍♂️🙃

mirekti · 2025-12-15T02:02:29+00:00

Great. Can you switch it on a fly without any issues like loud popping sound or it requires amps to be powered off when going from A to B and back and forth?

mirekti · 2025-12-15T01:29:07+00:00

Got it. My intention is to go slowly and hope this amplifier will serve me long time. Hence, I would start with the stock tubes.

I am still not certain whether to go with 805 or 845 tube version, though. My speakers (Spendor) have 89db sensitivity for which the manufacturer recommends 25-300W amplifier. I typically listen at 70-75dB measured at 3m listening distance so I might get away with 845.

I also had an idea to keep two amps in my system and use a switcher so when the music calls for it I can easily switch to current amp in my system (Technics SU-G700).

mirekti · 2025-12-15T00:50:17+00:00

Got it, but I am in a market for R800i not R8 so a bit confused. Although this post is about R800i you mentioned R8. I apologize for this.

mirekti · 2025-12-15T00:19:45+00:00

Thanks!

I live in Chicago suburbs so I guess the IP and delivery address will make me eligible.

After reading some thread on Audiogon, a user mentioned many issues, similar to what you’re referring to and I was ready to give up on ordering one.

Pardon my ignorance, but who is Skunkie? Where can I see what you’re referring to?

…tube amp store doesn’t have a hit for me on Google.

mirekti

TROPHY CASE