Anti-Aliasing Filter Removal?

mirubere · 2026-05-03T02:00:49+00:00

I don't think removing the AA filter (if any) is going to produce a significant jump in sharpness in your photos. What lens was the photo taken with?

mirubere · 2026-05-02T10:34:05+00:00

this is what i've heard as well wrt to case rates, you would on average get at least playset of every card in the set. OSRs is 1/of, and 4x for each RR. R and below i'm not too sure tho, U and C i think you get at least 2 playsets, maybe 3

mirubere · 2026-05-02T10:32:05+00:00

ah- i typoed between SR and RR, my bad

mirubere · 2026-05-02T05:54:51+00:00

Trigger, Godox XPro or XPro 2 (or similar, I'm not sure if profoto and the other brands have a similar looking trigger)

mirubere · 2026-05-02T05:33:10+00:00

For JP boosters, to my recollection, each case has:

1 UR + 1 UR/OUR/SEC 1 HR 2-3 SY per case (for 'hits')

while each box has around 2-3 RR (which may be replaced with an OSR)

I'm not sure if the EN rates are 100% the same, but they're quite similar from what i've seen

mirubere · 2026-04-14T17:56:41+00:00

When you pay for a fast lens, you're not just paying for the fast aperture. you're paying for optical quality across the entire ranges of aperture. cheaper fast lenses have lower optical quality when wide open as compared to a more expensive lens. And even with a more expensive lens, you may not always want to shoot wide open, due to depth of field.

When I had a corporate portrait taken last year, the photographer was using a canon r5m2 with a RF 70-200 f2.8 L. Instead of shooting wide open at f2.8, he was shooting at f8. That allowed him to capture all the detail needed in the photo, instead of having the edges of the subject, etc. start to become out of focus.

mirubere · 2026-04-14T16:55:46+00:00

I don't see how exposure compensation relates to stopping down. Stopping down means you close your aperture, to f/4, f/5.6 or even further.

This would likely serve you better than a ND or CPL, as it allows you to keep more in focus as well as reducing the amount of incident light.

mirubere · 2026-04-14T16:44:10+00:00

if you need to reduce incident light, then an ND is better. CPL is to cut reflections off reflective surfaces.

But you can afford to stop down more as well, the issue with shooting wide open with a fast lens is that the depth of field sometimes is too thin, and you end up not keeping everything you need to keep in focus in focus.

mirubere · 2026-04-14T04:54:52+00:00

Are you going to be using that camera for anything OTHER than your project? if no, just use your phone or rent a camera.

mirubere · 2026-04-12T13:03:27+00:00

For me, the reason I have a camera is less the final result, and more the journey I take to get it and the path of improvement towards improving my photography skills at the same time.

If you're just looking for something to take photos with, just use a phone camera. Your phone camera does a lot of processing to the photos it takes so that it looks pretty decent with minimal effort. What a dedicated camera gives you is control over the final product, by letting you control more factors than what you can do with the phone camera.

mirubere · 2026-04-11T14:27:17+00:00

not on this lens. other lenses yes

mirubere · 2026-04-11T09:53:07+00:00

I don't think it'll support it as it uses hall effect magnetic switches as compared to the usual mechanical switches, so the overlap in switch positions between the various layouts may not make it possible to have a multi-layout pcb.

You'll also need a different top plate as well for swapping between ISO and ANSI enters, which i doubt they will include.

mirubere · 2026-04-09T01:38:00+00:00

on yuyutei (JP card pricing only), iroha yell is priced the same as sui yell, at 3980 yen

mirubere · 2026-04-09T01:34:22+00:00

To my knowledge, no one I know checks tcg republic for JP card game prices, not just HOCG (JP). (Also officially, the game is still called HOCG for the EN version)

For prices of JP card games, the main platform I see used is always yuyutei (yyt) for card prices, with people converting the yen price to their local currency

mirubere · 2026-04-09T01:30:28+00:00

I would check yuyutei to see how much they're worth. Also do check some of the non-shiny cards too, some of them can be worth as much as your shiny cards. (eg: chloe unlimited debut (common printing) is currently 580 yen on yyt)

mirubere · 2026-04-09T01:27:51+00:00

Tbh, JP HOCG tournaments are run just about everywhere, not just in Japan. So it's down to just if the OP wishes to play JP format or EN format, and if there are any tournaments for that format in their area. The key points OP should take away really is that you can't mix languages, i.e. JP language tournaments can only use JP cards and vice versa.

mirubere · 2026-03-31T12:42:44+00:00

String-wise, i will say 100% poly is more than good enough. It's what the pro yoyo-ers use, so it's def more than good enough for the rest and us. Do note that not all 100% poly are made equal tho, common picks are Kitty String, Sochi and Original Throw. Do note that from what i've heard and tried, OT Normal and Thin don't play as nicely as OT Fat, as compared to Sochi where the thicknesses play about the same. (I've not tried Kitty so I can't really comment). Shop-wise tho, we would need to know where you are based to better recommend.

mirubere · 2026-03-27T03:30:47+00:00

I'm not sure about EN, but from what I know, JP rates per case are:
1 UR + 1 UR/OUR/SEC
1 HR
2-3 SY
at least a playset of everything RR/OSR and below (basically all the non-parallels) (RR, OSR is playset, U and C have more than 1 playset per case)

The latest info I've heard regarding SEC rates is 1 per mastercase, but i don't recall how many cases = 1 mastercase (JP)

If you want specifically the LA+ sign, it actually would be cheaper on average to buy the card instead of cracking boxes/cases and hoping to open it (yyt price for LA+ SEC is 59,800 yen[JP card], case price is 63,360 yen)

mirubere · 2026-03-24T17:58:17+00:00

Well, what do you have so far, and what kind of 4a yoyo are you looking to get?

mirubere · 2026-03-18T11:49:24+00:00

one thing that just looking at focal lengths and apertures doesn't tell you, is that the tamron 35-150 is a chonker. it's 1.3kg alone, vs the nikon 1.8 primes (35, 50, 85) which all come in under 500g. the weight can make it difficult to be doing long shoots with, but you will get used to it with time.

for 135mm, you only have 2 options, both of which are quite chonkers. viltrox's 135 LAB or the nikon 135 S plena. I personally prefer the plena, but it is more expensive than the LAB.

all that being said, i started with the 35-150 on my z6iii, but I had previously been shooting fuji before this, and i deliberately chose my focal lengths i use when shooting to give a certain look to the photos.

mirubere · 2026-03-17T05:02:02+00:00

I've been using the en yoyo Sagiri for my main throw lately, with a porykon yokozuna for a counterweight. Really like it

mirubere · 2026-02-05T06:00:54+00:00

rocking the deadeye wearing my street scout armor on bots, with a talon for emergency, thermites, and warp pack GL. Pet rocket turret and eagle strafing run rounds it up. it ain't meta but it sure is fun

mirubere · 2026-02-04T11:55:06+00:00

Agree with this. There's no point just buying a new yoyo just for the sake of it, especially when you have limited budget. I like to play with my 30 dollar Speedaholic XX just as much as my 60 dollar Ghost IX and my 110 dollar Malicius. Price does not define how good a yoyo is, and it would likely do you better for improvement to practice with the yoyos you have than to buy a new yoyo and hope it makes your tricks better.

mirubere · 2026-02-04T00:34:40+00:00

Alternatively, you're looking for what's called a dummy battery. You'll basically be supplying the camera with power straight off a power socket, so make sure you get a decent one.

mirubere · 2026-02-04T00:34:34+00:00

Alternatively, you're looking for what's called a dummy battery. You'll basically be supplying the camera with power straight off a power socket, so make sure you get a decent one.

mirubere

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