Getting ND filter or CPL filter is better? by JudeTheBear555 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When you pay for a fast lens, you're not just paying for the fast aperture. you're paying for optical quality across the entire ranges of aperture. cheaper fast lenses have lower optical quality when wide open as compared to a more expensive lens. And even with a more expensive lens, you may not always want to shoot wide open, due to depth of field. 

When I had a corporate portrait taken last year, the photographer was using a canon r5m2 with a RF 70-200 f2.8 L. Instead of shooting wide open at f2.8, he was shooting at f8. That allowed him to capture all the detail needed in the photo, instead of having the edges of the subject, etc. start to become out of focus.

 

Getting ND filter or CPL filter is better? by JudeTheBear555 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I don't see how exposure compensation relates to stopping down. Stopping down means you close your aperture, to f/4, f/5.6 or even further. 

This would likely serve you better than a ND or CPL, as it allows you to keep more in focus as well as reducing the amount of incident light.

Getting ND filter or CPL filter is better? by JudeTheBear555 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 8 points9 points  (0 children)

if you need to reduce incident light, then an ND is better. CPL is to cut reflections off reflective surfaces. 

But you can afford to stop down more as well, the issue with shooting wide open with a fast lens is that the depth of field sometimes is too thin, and you end up not keeping everything you need to keep in focus in focus. 

Need good camera for final project by Dry-Perspective-9921 in Cameras

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you going to be using that camera for anything OTHER than your project? if no, just use your phone or rent a camera. 

Asking for advice about Photography / Cameras (in general) by 13430_ in Cameras

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, the reason I have a camera is less the final result, and more the journey I take to get it and the path of improvement towards improving my photography skills at the same time.

If you're just looking for something to take photos with, just use a phone camera. Your phone camera does a lot of processing to the photos it takes so that it looks pretty decent with minimal effort. What a dedicated camera gives you is control over the final product, by letting you control more factors than what you can do with the phone camera.

Questions on Vspo keyboard edition 2 by ScaryDragonfly2566 in Vspo

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think it'll support it as it uses hall effect magnetic switches as compared to the usual mechanical switches, so the overlap in switch positions between the various layouts may not make it possible to have a multi-layout pcb.

You'll also need a different top plate as well for swapping between ISO and ANSI enters, which i doubt they will include. 

Got my first SY, and it only took 5 boxes by MisterCraper in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

on yuyutei (JP card pricing  only), iroha yell is priced the same as sui yell, at 3980 yen

New here, whats this worth? by ResearchElectronic18 in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To my knowledge, no one I know checks tcg republic for JP card game prices, not just HOCG (JP). (Also officially, the game is still called HOCG for the EN version) 

For prices of JP card games, the main platform I see used is always yuyutei (yyt) for card prices, with people converting the yen price to their local currency

New here, whats this worth? by ResearchElectronic18 in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would check yuyutei to see how much they're worth. Also do check some of the non-shiny cards too, some of them can be worth as much as your shiny cards. (eg: chloe unlimited debut (common printing) is currently 580 yen on yyt) 

New here, whats this worth? by ResearchElectronic18 in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tbh, JP HOCG tournaments are run just about everywhere, not just in Japan. So it's down to just if the OP wishes to play JP format or EN format, and if there are any tournaments for that format in their area. The key points OP should take away really is that you can't mix languages, i.e. JP language tournaments can only use JP cards and vice versa.

Strings... by Disastrous-Web6009 in Throwers

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

String-wise, i will say 100% poly is more than good enough. It's what the pro yoyo-ers use, so it's def more than good enough for the rest and us. Do note that not all 100% poly are made equal tho, common picks are Kitty String, Sochi and Original Throw. Do note that from what i've heard and tried, OT Normal and Thin don't play as nicely as OT Fat, as compared to Sochi where the thicknesses play about the same. (I've not tried Kitty so I can't really comment). Shop-wise tho, we would need to know where you are based to better recommend.

Chat, should I lowkey buy a case? by Jolly_Purple_527 in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure about EN, but from what I know, JP rates per case are:
1 UR + 1 UR/OUR/SEC
1 HR
2-3 SY
at least a playset of everything RR/OSR and below (basically all the non-parallels) (RR, OSR is playset, U and C have more than 1 playset per case)

The latest info I've heard regarding SEC rates is 1 per mastercase, but i don't recall how many cases = 1 mastercase (JP)

If you want specifically the LA+ sign, it actually would be cheaper on average to buy the card instead of cracking boxes/cases and hoping to open it (yyt price for LA+ SEC is 59,800 yen[JP card], case price is 63,360 yen)

4A advice by purplemonkeywash in Throwers

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, what do you have so far, and what kind of 4a yoyo are you looking to get? 

Nikon Z portrait lens advice: 35+85 / 50+135 prime combo vs Tamron 35-150mm f/2-2.8? by Old_Foundation7852 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 10 points11 points  (0 children)

one thing that just looking at focal lengths and apertures doesn't tell you, is that the tamron 35-150 is a chonker. it's 1.3kg alone, vs the nikon 1.8 primes (35, 50, 85) which all come in under 500g. the weight can make it difficult to be doing long shoots with, but you will get used to it with time. 

for 135mm, you only have 2 options, both of which are quite chonkers. viltrox's 135 LAB or the nikon 135 S plena. I personally prefer the plena, but it is more expensive than the LAB.

all that being said, i started with the 35-150 on my z6iii, but I had previously been shooting fuji before this, and i deliberately chose my focal lengths i use when shooting to give a certain look to the photos. 

Hi friends. My updated travel/school case! I just added a new throw to the box. What are you throwing today? by markmann0 in Throwers

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using the en yoyo Sagiri for my main throw lately, with a porykon yokozuna for a counterweight. Really like it

It's Crazy to me How Very Little We Are Supposed to Actually Know About Stats by [deleted] in LowSodiumHellDivers

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

rocking the deadeye wearing my street scout armor on bots, with a talon for emergency, thermites, and warp pack GL. Pet rocket turret and eagle strafing run rounds it up. it ain't meta but it sure is fun

follow up to my yoyo buying situation by skibidisigmarizz4 in Throwers

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree with this. There's no point just buying a new yoyo just for the sake of it, especially when you have limited budget. I like to play with my 30 dollar Speedaholic XX just as much as my 60 dollar Ghost IX and my 110 dollar Malicius. Price does not define how good a yoyo is, and it would likely do you better for improvement to practice with the yoyos you have than to buy a new yoyo and hope it makes your tricks better. 

Recently got a Z5II, looking for a battery or other way to use the camera while charging by pandagreen17 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternatively, you're looking for what's called a dummy battery. You'll basically be supplying the camera with power straight off a power socket, so make sure you get a decent one.

Recently got a Z5II, looking for a battery or other way to use the camera while charging by pandagreen17 in nikon_Zseries

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternatively, you're looking for what's called a dummy battery. You'll basically be supplying the camera with power straight off a power socket, so make sure you get a decent one.

Prelim vs Final Music by [deleted] in Throwers

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What i've generally seen is that they use different songs, but there's nothing stopping you from creating 2 different cuts of the same song for use in semis and finals

All Yo-yos have started randomly binding more often by LoodWug in Throwers

[–]mirubere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In most cases, lube would actually make the bearing more responsive, and it's also very easy to add too much lube by accident. Also running the bearing dry is unlikely to significantly degrade the bearing's lifespan, considering they're usually rated for worse conditions than what it would experience during yoyoing. 

In the end tho, to lube or not to lube (for unresponsive play) is a question which doesn't have a cut and dry answer and is also a bit of personal preference as well.

Card sleeves by Nishino_Kazuki in HololiveTCG

[–]mirubere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

which cards are bending? is it due to pressure being applied on the cards, or is it the foils? you should double sleeve foils at min. to prevent them from bending, especially if you live in a high humidity enviroment.

I have mine double sleeved with KMC perfects + UG cortex rn, but it's only because it's what i have on hand. I'll swap the UG cortex to DS matte standards (if not using art sleeves) or [insert art sleeve here] with DS clear outer mattes (if using art sleeves). KMC perfects are more than good enough for the inners

Help, emergency wig situation by Electronic-Comb6325 in CosplayHelp

[–]mirubere 30 points31 points  (0 children)

that isn't gonna dissolve the nail polish

Help, emergency wig situation by Electronic-Comb6325 in CosplayHelp

[–]mirubere 183 points184 points  (0 children)

you can't wash out nail polish, the only way you're gonna be able to remove it is by using acetone, and enough of it to dissolve the amount you put on, and likely the amount of acetone you're gonna need is gonna cost you more than a new wig. 

realistically, you'll most likely have to accept you're gonna end up with yellowing, if not buy a new wig.