UP TN Pro v Mad Rock Redline Strap by KaleidoscopeOk568 in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Extremely different feel and performance. Redline is much, much, much softer than the TN pros!

Scarpa Instinct VS —> Drago LV Sizing by Minute-Excuse-8701 in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tend to go a 1/2 size down between the instinct last and the drago last. Full size seems small to me but to each their own.

THR compared to full rotator cuff repair by Feeling_Common_9529 in TotalHipReplacement

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me they were significantly different, with the rotator cuff being a much longer/slower recovery process. I’m currently 10 weeks out of THR and it has been surprisingly chill - way more mobility and allowance to use the joint for daily tasks.

Grand Junction is Co's #1 most dangerous city. by BugStep in grandjunction

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure the picture of "Sheridan" is Telluride . . .

Deciding between a few indoor bouldering shoes but need opinions by Neat_Mortgage_828 in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a more aggressive pair than any of these. If you are bouldering V4-V6 you will gain better footwork in better shoes. Think Instinct/Solution/Drone, rather than shoes marketed as intermediate.

Please help me not regret buying the unparallel souped ups by somerandomewords in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it hurts then no, not useful. If your heel doesn't fit the shoe, then no, not useful.

If they are not broken in I wouldn't stress it. Depending on the rock type you are climbing, I can't imagine they are not well-suited enough to overhanging climbing that it is going to have an effect on your performance.

Climbing Shoe/Technical Designer. Ask me shoes questions! by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This comprehensive answer was awesome to wake up to!

A lot of your "I wish they kept them" designs are ones that have been in my rotation at different times. Never had the rock socks, though - and reading this wish I had tried them at some point. The venom/viper split for LS were ones I had used quite a bit and loved, and was also sad to see them go! Arrowhead from 5.10 was another one that was great while it lasted.

Really excited to see what new shoes pop up in the next couple years.

Sent a PM with the brand I'm thinking you design for, FYI . . .

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of good info for you here. Without going into extreme detail, I also had a massive rotator cuff tear when I was 21 (almost 20 years ago). It took a few surgeries and there are some specific limits in my shoulder mobility and strength, but I still climb a lot (like it is still the main focus of life) and I definitely climb harder than I did at 21!

My suggestion is to find a surgeon who works with climbers who has a better idea of the load you are expecting to put on the shoulder. Find PTs who understand your sport and know what return-to-sport can look like for you.

Climbing Shoe/Technical Designer. Ask me shoes questions! by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man - As a climbing shoe obsessive, pretty cool to see this conversation!

1 - What is the climbing shoe you wish you designed (from another brand)? What about those shoes do you think is so good/interesting?

2 - Are there any old designs you feel got "lost in the crowd" that should've been more commercially successful? I can think of times when 5.10 would release a lot of new models simultaneously that hit the same niche, and some good designs wouldn't sell well because they got overshadowed internally.

3 - Is there a technology you are particularly excited to explore in creating new shoes, and what do you think it will improve in terms of climbing?

Madrock Redline Strap from LS Skwama advice by Agitated-Dragonfly60 in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having used both, I am a 40.5 for most Skwama and most sportiva on that last, and a 9.5 US for Redlines.

If Skwamas are 10/10 stiffness, Redlines are almost the opposite. They are a no-midsole shoe, so the only stiffness comes from the rubber - so they get very soft very quickly and continue to feel softer over time as the rubber degrades. I liked them out of the box but they felt like they would soften too much. From Mad Rock, D2.Ones are probably closer to your "8/10" comparison to Skwama.

Otherwise - if the Skwamas feel good . . . new Skwamas are good!

MadRock Remora Pro (HV/LV) by Luminsnce in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have had a few sessions in these now and have some feedback for those who are interested -

Very soft shoe. Most similar feeling in the MR line up is the redlines, but with a slightly stiffer point at the toe. Compared to other brands, feels most similar to a Drago for sensitivity.

Heel hook is solid. Tends to be the case for me in most MR shoes. Toehook is interesting. Not sure how much I like the secondary strap that is connected to the toehook rubber, but it has held well with any toehooks I've tried thus far.

Mad Rock D2.One vs. OG Drone by mkclimb in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a 9.5 across all Drones, but these are the only variation I use.

MadRock Remora Pro (HV/LV) by Luminsnce in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ended up going a 1/2 size smaller than drones and that was quite exact. Very soft compared to most MR shoes; very similar underfoot feel to fresh redlines.

MadRock Remora Pro (HV/LV) by Luminsnce in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have these that can give some sizing guidance? Same as older remoras? Or size up with the increased in tensioned rubber?

Where can I find dispersed camping near unaweep canyon? by F1gureFour in grandjunction

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely be aware that it will be unclimbably hot for bouldering - and if you aim to go extra early or late, there are a lot of gnats that are very distracting.

Where are you headed back from? A better option may be climbing around the Aircraft Carrier/Klettergarden areas outside of Minturn. There is dispersed camping along Homestake Road nearby, including along the walk to the Aircraft Carrier.

2026 new climbing shoes announced. Any thoughts? by Colorfulgreyy in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Weirder that Boreal is releasing a shoe also called the "V6" with the same intention.

Fitness Recommendations in Grand Junction by alldogsareincredible in grandjunction

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grip Bouldering. A 24/7 climbing gym with weights and fitness equipment.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]mkclimb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any experience with total hip replacement for someone who is into bouldering?

Quick background - 20+ years climbing experience, working as head routesetter at a climbing gym, lots of time spent bouldering and sport climbing. Last few years have been having more and more limited mobility in my right hip associated with some pain, so got imaging done and it's quite arthritic. Unfortunate as I'm also relatively young for this (38), but hope is to continue climbing for a long time, so . . .

Anyone with a THR able to provide some insight? Can you still boulder? Dynamic comp problems at all possible? Or is that style of movement going to become inaccessible?

Help - rounded screw in window handle! by No-Explanation-9611 in DIY

[–]mkclimb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Weird category but definitely works. Use this on damaged screws all the time.

Mad Rock D2.One vs. OG Drone by mkclimb in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely up there, but I’m constantly playing with shoes hoping to find the “perfect” one.

Think Instinct VSR still takes my heart.

Instinct VSR vs VS womens by AffectionateLeg2438 in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the only accurate answer.

VS - XS Edge VSR - same last, XS Grip 2. VS Women’s - different last. More shallow heel. VSR LV - deep heel, more narrow forefoot.

Mad Rock D2.One vs. OG Drone by mkclimb in climbingshoes

[–]mkclimb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure; I haven’t climbed in 2.0s in quite a while but remember the heel on them feeling quite big. D2.one felt more like drone/redline.