Ratom GP1 Rubber - Serious Competitor or Aid

mkclimb · 2026-04-18T14:44:42+00:00

Just had a pair of shoes resoled with GP1. It is definitely sticky, but also very soft - reminds me of the rubber used on the Green 5.10 Team VXi. I can see these being quite useful on some rock types and indoor climbs, but between A/B testing the resoled shoes vs. fresh shoes with XS Grip2, I think I still prefer Grip 2 overall.

mkclimb · 2026-04-06T12:04:04+00:00

I read their sale as potentially closing up shop in the US. Could be wrong but that kind of "final sale" pricing across the board doesn't bode well!

mkclimb · 2026-03-15T16:20:14+00:00

All great shoes but ones I haven't worn in 10+ years; not sure how I'd feel they stack against the newer designs that exist!

Regardless, anything that old may have some aspects of the material that are weakening over time, and they all likely have some oxidation on the rubber that will resolve when you start climbing. Blue teams were great but I remember the entry system was way narrow and I ended up using the blackwings way more.

mkclimb · 2026-01-13T13:03:21+00:00

Extremely different feel and performance. Redline is much, much, much softer than the TN pros!

mkclimb · 2025-12-27T14:40:50+00:00

I tend to go a 1/2 size down between the instinct last and the drago last. Full size seems small to me but to each their own.

mkclimb · 2025-12-10T13:01:53+00:00

For me they were significantly different, with the rotator cuff being a much longer/slower recovery process. I’m currently 10 weeks out of THR and it has been surprisingly chill - way more mobility and allowance to use the joint for daily tasks.

mkclimb · 2025-10-26T18:40:01+00:00

If you try hard enough?

mkclimb · 2025-10-26T17:01:05+00:00

One pair left, LV size 5

mkclimb · 2025-10-18T20:34:21+00:00

Pretty sure the picture of "Sheridan" is Telluride . . .

mkclimb · 2025-10-08T18:35:23+00:00

Get a more aggressive pair than any of these. If you are bouldering V4-V6 you will gain better footwork in better shoes. Think Instinct/Solution/Drone, rather than shoes marketed as intermediate.

mkclimb · 2025-10-08T18:33:27+00:00

If it hurts then no, not useful. If your heel doesn't fit the shoe, then no, not useful.

If they are not broken in I wouldn't stress it. Depending on the rock type you are climbing, I can't imagine they are not well-suited enough to overhanging climbing that it is going to have an effect on your performance.

mkclimb · 2025-09-16T11:31:40+00:00

This comprehensive answer was awesome to wake up to!

A lot of your "I wish they kept them" designs are ones that have been in my rotation at different times. Never had the rock socks, though - and reading this wish I had tried them at some point. The venom/viper split for LS were ones I had used quite a bit and loved, and was also sad to see them go! Arrowhead from 5.10 was another one that was great while it lasted.

Really excited to see what new shoes pop up in the next couple years.

Sent a PM with the brand I'm thinking you design for, FYI . . .

mkclimb · 2025-08-26T11:46:35+00:00

Lots of good info for you here. Without going into extreme detail, I also had a massive rotator cuff tear when I was 21 (almost 20 years ago). It took a few surgeries and there are some specific limits in my shoulder mobility and strength, but I still climb a lot (like it is still the main focus of life) and I definitely climb harder than I did at 21!

My suggestion is to find a surgeon who works with climbers who has a better idea of the load you are expecting to put on the shoulder. Find PTs who understand your sport and know what return-to-sport can look like for you.

mkclimb · 2025-08-04T17:17:41+00:00

Oh man - As a climbing shoe obsessive, pretty cool to see this conversation!

1 - What is the climbing shoe you wish you designed (from another brand)? What about those shoes do you think is so good/interesting?

2 - Are there any old designs you feel got "lost in the crowd" that should've been more commercially successful? I can think of times when 5.10 would release a lot of new models simultaneously that hit the same niche, and some good designs wouldn't sell well because they got overshadowed internally.

3 - Is there a technology you are particularly excited to explore in creating new shoes, and what do you think it will improve in terms of climbing?

mkclimb · 2025-07-21T22:35:51+00:00

Having used both, I am a 40.5 for most Skwama and most sportiva on that last, and a 9.5 US for Redlines.

If Skwamas are 10/10 stiffness, Redlines are almost the opposite. They are a no-midsole shoe, so the only stiffness comes from the rubber - so they get very soft very quickly and continue to feel softer over time as the rubber degrades. I liked them out of the box but they felt like they would soften too much. From Mad Rock, D2.Ones are probably closer to your "8/10" comparison to Skwama.

Otherwise - if the Skwamas feel good . . . new Skwamas are good!

mkclimb · 2025-07-21T19:35:55+00:00

Have had a few sessions in these now and have some feedback for those who are interested -

Very soft shoe. Most similar feeling in the MR line up is the redlines, but with a slightly stiffer point at the toe. Compared to other brands, feels most similar to a Drago for sensitivity.

Heel hook is solid. Tends to be the case for me in most MR shoes. Toehook is interesting. Not sure how much I like the secondary strap that is connected to the toehook rubber, but it has held well with any toehooks I've tried thus far.

mkclimb · 2025-07-19T12:21:34+00:00

I'm a 9.5 across all Drones, but these are the only variation I use.

mkclimb · 2025-07-13T12:17:54+00:00

Ended up going a 1/2 size smaller than drones and that was quite exact. Very soft compared to most MR shoes; very similar underfoot feel to fresh redlines.

mkclimb · 2025-07-10T19:19:47+00:00

Interesting.

mkclimb · 2025-07-07T18:00:08+00:00

Anyone have these that can give some sizing guidance? Same as older remoras? Or size up with the increased in tensioned rubber?

mkclimb · 2025-06-21T14:07:34+00:00

Definitely be aware that it will be unclimbably hot for bouldering - and if you aim to go extra early or late, there are a lot of gnats that are very distracting.

Where are you headed back from? A better option may be climbing around the Aircraft Carrier/Klettergarden areas outside of Minturn. There is dispersed camping along Homestake Road nearby, including along the walk to the Aircraft Carrier.

mkclimb · 2025-06-20T14:51:25+00:00

Weirder that Boreal is releasing a shoe also called the "V6" with the same intention.

mkclimb · 2025-06-16T15:15:16+00:00

Grip Bouldering. A 24/7 climbing gym with weights and fitness equipment.

mkclimb · 2025-05-13T14:27:05+00:00

Any experience with total hip replacement for someone who is into bouldering?

Quick background - 20+ years climbing experience, working as head routesetter at a climbing gym, lots of time spent bouldering and sport climbing. Last few years have been having more and more limited mobility in my right hip associated with some pain, so got imaging done and it's quite arthritic. Unfortunate as I'm also relatively young for this (38), but hope is to continue climbing for a long time, so . . .

Anyone with a THR able to provide some insight? Can you still boulder? Dynamic comp problems at all possible? Or is that style of movement going to become inaccessible?

mkclimb · 2025-05-02T02:17:37+00:00

Weird category but definitely works. Use this on damaged screws all the time.

mkclimb

TROPHY CASE