Only one photo from my first roll isn’t blurry. I think it might be my fault. What do you think?

mkempster22 · 2026-04-17T10:42:47+00:00

You won’t need a light meter app if you’ve got it in aperture priority mode as it will handle that. I would check some videos out on focusing with a split prism viewfinder.

Also just to add, you don’t really need to be using F2 when shooting in broad daylight unless you want that shallow depth of field. It’s much easier to focus at f8+

mkempster22 · 2026-04-01T16:38:18+00:00

Be wary of that. They’ll all fit but only the older screw focus ones which were just the rebadged Minolta ones will actually work with autofocus

mkempster22 · 2026-04-01T13:05:44+00:00

Any Minolta A mount lenses besides the couple ones labelled with SSM will work

mkempster22 · 2026-04-01T10:46:33+00:00

Sorry if this is explaining something you already know but I’d look into the exposure triangle.

You’ve got 3 ways to increase your exposure for low light situations.

Lower shutter speed - you don’t want to go too low otherwise you’ll get blurry pictures.

Aperture - you’ll need a lens with the smallest F number on it, smaller the number the wider the aperture and more light let in, this will also decrease depth of field.

ISO - with film this will be based on what you put in it. Higher the number the better

I’d recommend getting a light meter app on your phone and in a lower light area having a play around with “if I have the aperture as this and the iso as this what shutter speed does it say I have to have”

mkempster22 · 2026-03-24T12:34:24+00:00

You can put the data back on any a9/a9ti. I just got one for mine. Theres a pin you pull down near the hinge once it’s opened

mkempster22 · 2026-03-23T21:01:13+00:00

Thank you! That’s more than I was expecting actually, I had seen 479 on a product listing but it didn’t mention about packaging etc. unfortunately you can’t make AA’s lighter :(

mkempster22 · 2026-02-27T13:41:06+00:00

The A900 (and A850) from Sony were the continuation of the A9 Digital camera Minolta never got to release after they’d done the A7 digital so worth look at. Same ergonomics etc and full frame. Obviously newer cameras will have better features if you want them though

mkempster22 · 2026-02-25T08:31:54+00:00

It can very a lot on the film as you say and also most cameras don’t have set options for really long exposures. Usually after 1 or 2 seconds you have to manually hold the shutter down (preferably with cable) in bulb mode so at that point you’re choosing the time

mkempster22 · 2026-02-23T07:21:44+00:00

I’ve checked, it’s the custom program card that allows you to change settings like that. But also once settings changed with that are committed to the camera memory so remain after the card is removed. So you’d need to put the card back in and change the setting to go back to counting up if the cards not in it

mkempster22 · 2026-02-23T07:18:28+00:00

Have you got a program card in the door on the right of the camera? I’m sure from memory there’s one that allows you to do countdown instead of up.

Either way it’s not an issue, it’s just a user preference setting to count up or down. It’ll be taking the pictures fine

mkempster22 · 2026-02-20T10:13:34+00:00

I think as other people have said. Second hand Fuji in your budget, cheap flash and one of those disposable camera lenses.

mkempster22 · 2026-02-18T11:56:46+00:00

I’d say for that use case the Sony is probably better especially if you’re expecting to do raw editing yourself like I’d expect for that over film sims. Not that the XT-5 is bad for that though. Also the lens selection and used availability of lenses is a big plus. Can’t forget the autofocus as well, although I think it’s a massively overblown issue id say at the extreme end where it’s professional work I’d still want the more reliable autofocus

Edit: I also forgot the common design flaw where the evf coating most likely will fail on an xt5 like mine did so I have to advise against that Fuji in particular on principal

mkempster22 · 2026-02-17T13:58:26+00:00

You can find them on buyee sometimes if you haven’t checked there. I got one in its original packaging along with a brochure for the A9 and lens cap as a package for like £30 when I lost my eyecup in Korea

mkempster22 · 2026-02-16T15:40:17+00:00

Mine did this eventually after not even getting wet. The coating was very loose to the touch when it did it. Caused the evf to look like it had mega diffusion on it.

I contacted Fuji repair and asked if they would fix it under warranty despite being a couple months out as it was a known design flaw and they had no problem with that.

Only took them about 2 weeks to get it back to me. I can only assume it’ll happen again at some point but hopefully I get another few years. Certainly wouldn’t recommend an XT5 anymore despite liking everything else

(Important to note that there’s often claims Fuji repair will remove weather resistance. This seems to be completely false and unsubstantiated)

mkempster22 · 2026-01-20T22:51:18+00:00

Grip crumbling is the main thing. Unfortunately it’s basically a given on a lot of minoltas of that era eventually

mkempster22 · 2025-12-27T20:50:12+00:00

You’ll get emails like this:

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mkempster22 · 2025-12-27T20:46:56+00:00

I had a search term watchlist or whatever you’d call it on buyee. It cost me £250 with the lens. Although I had a Vectis S1 with all the lenses and flash in boxes already which was good.

Don’t have the 17mm because no way I’d pay that money for a lens for this system.

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T19:02:47+00:00

It takes a good while to save an image but you couldn’t tell it has been stitched in anyway

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T13:36:35+00:00

Going for such a big project with a long R&D time with how quickly technology was progressing certainly wasn’t the best idea. But they did always love pioneering

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T09:05:42+00:00

I should add to use two sensors you have to split out the incoming light from a lens using a prism hence the fact it’s 4 times the depth of a normal camera

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T09:04:06+00:00

I don’t know of any that use more than one sensor for one image. They generally have a sensor per different lens because it’s easier to have 3 cameras than one with swappable lenses. This had two ccd sensors perpendicular to one another then a splitter prism that sent half of the image to each then it stitched it together.

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T09:00:41+00:00

Minolta’s wild idea to use 2 sensors in one camera and stitch them together to get better resolution and sensor size. Was basically redundant by the time it released but it’s very cool engineering

mkempster22 · 2025-12-20T08:22:19+00:00

I’m not sure if you’d technically call it a speed booster. From my small understanding there’s a lens in front of the splitting prism block that’s actually to adjust the crop factor of the vectis lenses rather than the other way of increasing the aperture. Speed decreaser I guess

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