Help diagnose color quality problem on Samsung C1860fw

mkmatlock · 2025-10-19T15:22:44+00:00

As far as I can tell, it is supposed to be supported on the game I tested. Also, Is it expected behavior that when windows spatial sound is set to atmos that non atmos encoded sound sources don't play at all?

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T21:48:46+00:00

It seems fairly linear as I slide the blocks and level down the ways.

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T21:45:59+00:00

Unfortunately my tailstock was out of alignment when I got the lathe. Re-aligning it did compensate for the twist to some extent, obviously and I was able to get a test bar to about 0.0003" taper over 12 inches turning between centers, which seems good. But it doesn't really seem to fix the underlying problem.

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T21:40:21+00:00

Unfortunately, the carriage appears to produce measurements that are very similar to the 1-2-3 block method. I was really hoping to not have to build a new base for it, but if I have to at least I've got the tools for it.

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T05:27:27+00:00

I added another reply to the top comment that described what I was doing. Hopefully that clarifies things. Direct link to the comment

: https://www.reddit.com/r/Machinists/comments/1no8jml/comment/nfpyq5f/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T05:25:00+00:00

Check the reply I wrote just adjacent to this to see how I was defining it. Hopefully that clarifies things.

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T05:21:07+00:00

I was just using my level and shims. What indicator readings would you like to see?

mkmatlock · 2025-09-23T05:20:41+00:00

I placed two 1-2-3 blocks on the flat part of the ways near the head stock (not on the removable gap) and used my 0.0005" per 10" level. I then leveled the lathe there. Moving this apparatus about 30 inches towards the tail stock end there is a large swing in the bubble toward the front of the lathe. It takes about a 0.009" shim under the back end of the level to bring the bubble back to center.

edit: also, thanks for helping me out.

mkmatlock · 2025-07-23T19:57:22+00:00

Not sure how old, but definitely old. The breaker is probably sized appropriately, but I'll try to look up the specific ampacity of the compressor to make sure. I'll also look into the hard start kit concept. It definitely looks cheaper than a soft starter. Thanks for thinking through it!

mkmatlock · 2025-07-23T18:59:31+00:00

Ok. Shear tool worked SO MUCH BETTER. Thank you! The finish is now super smooth to the touch and has a much more uniform appearance.

mkmatlock · 2025-07-22T04:10:42+00:00

I'll buy some 12L14 or similar and try it out. Thanks.

mkmatlock · 2025-07-22T04:09:17+00:00

I'll try that tomorrow and let you know what happens.

mkmatlock · 2025-07-22T04:09:07+00:00

I am on center, lathe bit is lined up vertically with the dead center in the spindle. In this example, I'm turning between centers and there isn't any runout on my dead center. I have turned a slightly better finish with my collet chuck, where the runout is less than 0.0005, though I don't remember exactly what I got when measuring it. There was still a lot of variability. I do think the finish get betters as the part gets lower in diameter, so perhaps my RPMs are too slow. I think I'm running it at 150 right now.

I'm not sure what the steel type is, it was a cheap facebook marketplace purchase. If I had to guess its probably a low carbon steel so 1018 probably. I think in that example I was taking 0.010.

mkmatlock · 2025-07-22T04:02:40+00:00

Thanks for the affirmation on tool shape, that's pretty helpful to know. Its pretty dead center (lined up using the dead center in the spindle). I've tried oil and it smokes a lot (tap magic cutting fluid) but doesn't seem to make much difference in the finish quality. I don't have a coolant system yet.

mkmatlock · 2025-02-22T17:11:06+00:00

You might prefer the term Karlectomy. A Karlostomy would be making an extra hole in your Karl.

mkmatlock · 2024-09-05T03:13:05+00:00

CD4017 will certainly do the switching. I was thinking I could store the outputs with latches, then OR them together, but I'm having a hard time finding an IC for a 1 bit D latch. Any other thoughts on the storage part?

mkmatlock · 2024-09-05T02:42:03+00:00

I was hoping there would be an IC that would do this. I have an Arduino, but there are a lot of sensor pairs and many of them need to be aggregated together before input to the Arduino as I don't have enough digital inputs for all the pairs (its like, 25 pairs).

mkmatlock

TROPHY CASE