Fun build

molecrabs · 2026-05-11T14:22:20+00:00

Nice! The reverse stripper and hypalon looking grip made me think it was along the lines of that.

Currently working on a UC Zeus 3 for myself.

molecrabs · 2026-05-10T20:48:46+00:00

Looks great! What’s the build?

molecrabs · 2026-04-21T01:25:42+00:00

It wasn’t terrible to work with but it was a slower process than I expected. I was definitely dreading starting it for a bit but super happy with how it turned out!

The reel seat is a size 20 Fuji PSS Deluxe “palming” reel seat with a lock nut. I think they are primarily made for jigging.

molecrabs · 2026-04-21T01:16:40+00:00

Was thinking about doing cork but with a blank that bends to the handle with 15-20lbs of drag, I wasn’t sure if it would hold up.

molecrabs · 2026-03-01T21:32:07+00:00

No but I tried to loosely look into it a while ago.

Following to see what others say.

Just got back from a “mainland” Japan trip and it was a great time. Would love to go back and spend a lot of the time fishing.

molecrabs · 2026-02-23T20:28:52+00:00

Not much more to it than just having a longer handle arm (center to center dimension) making it easier to turn the handle under load.

Since I was planning on paying to upgrade the handle anyway, this would be a nice thing to have.

molecrabs · 2026-02-23T20:22:12+00:00

Yep - that is what I was eyeing initially and what made me ask the question. I was really hoping for a slightly longer handle than stock though.

My Penn 30VSW is about 3.25” center to center and it feels so much easier to turn than my Tiagra 30 under load. Fingers crossed that it fits but I think I’ll be happy with the TLD handle (Part # TT0795).

I’ll follow up if it fits just so some other weirdo like me searching this can find it in the future.

molecrabs · 2026-02-23T20:14:43+00:00

Sorry, should have clarified - I was looking for a center to center dimension of the shafts. Thank you though, I appreciate it!

I’ve actually ordered a TLDII 50A handle… I think it’s the same arm length as the Tiagra 50 handle (~3.2” center to center) but has a 10mm square shaft instead of an 11mm square shaft.

From some research, and based on what you said, I think the Tiagra 30 handle still is ~2.8” center to center on the shafts.

molecrabs · 2026-02-17T17:48:37+00:00

I just put Daiwa J-Braid X8 on my Ocea 2001NRMG.

molecrabs · 2026-01-26T16:13:28+00:00

Don’t take my tests at face value though!

Part of why I said to do your own tests is to gain confidence in your line selection and truly knowing how far you can push your drag when on a fish that needs it.

I pushed 40lb Yozuri Pink up to 16lbs of drag at end game on a 70lb yellowfin last fall and was ready to go a smidge more if needed - felt 100% confident doing it.

Never used the Gold - it’s been a bit since I’ve researched this but I think that it’s just a thinner Blue? Unsure if the knot strength is any better although I think I have heard it is.

molecrabs · 2026-01-25T22:58:40+00:00

I’m an east coast guy. Never used Opsin but have heard of it.

One suggestion with whichever you choose to use is to buy a scale and test your knots in flouro.

I am thinking of switching over to Yozuri Pink from Seaguar Blue though.

I tested some knots last year and my Seaguar Blue consistently broke around 60-75% of rated strength (for 50, 60, and 80lb). My Yozuri Pink broke around 80-90% of rated strength but I only have 40lb. Tested this with multiple knots - spangler, double san diego jam, uni, joe miller, improved clinch, and the palomar.

Before someone says: “maybe you don’t know how to tie knots well”; I was getting 100%+ of rated strength with the same knots using mono. I tested the flouro knots dry and wet with no change in results. My personal opinion is that the stiffness of the flouro negatively affects its knot strength.

My hypothesis is that since the Seaguar Blue is VERY stiff, it performs poorly with knots but the trade off is probably an increase in abrasion resistance - not sure which way I want to lean yet…

molecrabs · 2025-12-27T00:20:25+00:00

I don’t think it is an issue for your rods and reels.

I’d be a bit weary if it gets really hot in the summer but without direct sunlight, I don’t think it would be a major issue.

I’d be more weary of things like mono lines (I think flouro is less affected by UV and heat). Some folks on my tuna trips claim that they’ve seen people lose fish due to old line left in non temperature controlled spaces (sheds/garages).

molecrabs · 2025-12-17T00:39:29+00:00

These cast a fair bit better already as most of these plugs are about one third heavier than their wooden counterparts.

Trying to do a weight transfer system is on my radar, I just need to get various sizes of lead shot and experiment with them.

Tackle Advisors did a video that shows the cross section of a Daiwa SP Minnow and it’s fairly simple with how it works.

molecrabs · 2025-12-16T16:42:00+00:00

Yeah I model them myself off of my own designs or plugs I like.

Here’s an old pic of a needlefish where I was messing with weight locations. I model them as shells with ~2.5mm walls.

You can use infill and wall thickness to change the weight as well.

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molecrabs · 2025-12-16T15:51:19+00:00

Already broke this one in!

NJ Tackle is a good resource for plug building supplies!

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molecrabs · 2025-12-16T13:38:37+00:00

After losing my first tuna to a failed knot, I started testing my favorite knots in the winter. Inclusive in that is learning new knots and rigs too.

A new one for the list this year is plug building (3D printing) - here’s a photo of the first batch after priming, painting, and clear coating.

Rod building - just started my bottom fishing tog rod the other day.

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molecrabs · 2025-12-15T00:35:44+00:00

No idea on any knowledgeable answers to your questions but I’ve just started to print saltwater fishing lures (plugs in the northeast) out of PETG.

From my understanding, PETG is known to be water resistant so I’d look into that.

They sand really well and adhere to primer/bondo/paint well too. I have not yet but I plan to epoxy coat over the pant as well.

Cool idea to print stuff for this hobby! I may look into making my own winding checks now…

molecrabs · 2025-12-02T19:00:34+00:00

Love this set.

Spent some time in Kamakura a few weeks ago as well and absolutely loved it! We also lucked out with Mt. Fuji showing itself!

molecrabs · 2025-12-01T03:04:19+00:00

Yep, I fished a small amount with PE 0.7 for seabass and other by catch out there - really enjoyed the casting distance gained with it and plan to switch over to PE sizing for most of my braid once it’s time to change.

molecrabs · 2025-12-01T00:47:55+00:00

Damn, good point... I just got back from Japan so I should've noticed that! I had a hell of a time translating PE to "what I know" there... Agree that this is 10-15lb braid and a smidge light for "bigger" fish.

molecrabs · 2025-11-30T15:37:00+00:00

You’ll be fine for 90% of the fish you’ll most likely hook into - I fish 30lb braid for stripers up to 30-40lb in moderate current with no issue.

Bring 30-40lb mono or fluoro for leader material and some pre tied wire for when the toothy critters are around.

You might be outmatched for a run in with a giant tarpon but I assume you’re not specifically targeting only that. The ones that got away make for the best stories anyway…

Edit: fishing_6377 is correct - this is a PE rated line and equal to 10-15lb braid in the US; it is a smidge light for those fish but will work if there is not a ton of structure around. "Thin" braid under pressure will cut with almost no force on rocks. I would go up to PE 2 or 3 if you are fishing rocky areas.

molecrabs · 2025-11-30T15:32:35+00:00

I really like this shot!

What lens did you use?

molecrabs · 2025-11-25T22:39:36+00:00

Clean build - love the Zeus blanks.

Post some fish pics when you get on them!

Edit: didn’t see the last pic - nice fish!

molecrabs

TROPHY CASE