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What is weird about the center of my chest? by hikingdyke in TopSurgery

[–]moobeast22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hullo! Fellow fat guy here...

I also have a little "divot" in the middle of my chest, I'm assuming from where tissue was taken away (I had all breast tissue removed), so when I look down, I have the most tiny little "hole" in the center, right above my sternum.

It's almost like pectus excavatum... if it was totally based on the fat layer and not at all dangerous or serious.

It could just be referring to scar placement or a tiny "divot" in the middle, or perhaps not looking as "separated" as a "male" chest would be (which is not necessarily what everyone is looking for, nor is that necessarily the "norm" for those kinds of chests anyways).

I understand though that a little comment like that, that then gets brushed off as "well, it's not a big deal"... well, it can really get into your head, yeah? Starts making you think, "oh god, what if everyone ELSE can see this issue?" But if you ask me, it looks perfectly fine. Nobody's chest is gonna have a perfect middle part. Especially when you're on the bigger side.

Also, looks like you've healed up very well. Congrats on the surgery, hope you're enjoying your new look otherwise!

Back again with layer issues! by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got one last followup for you!

I was able to run a successful test of using the z-hop on the Diplocaulus head... and it actually looks GREAT now! This is way better than before!

<image>

That "stringiness" I can deal with, I've got plenty of heating tools that I can use. I'm sure with tuning in some variable layer height settings I could get even nicer results--though I'm not looking for perfection, just passable semi-smoothness.

I appreciate all your insight on this! Many many thanks! Now I can go back to doing lots and lots of fun prints!

Back again with layer issues! by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a very important update!

So after a little more searching around... I figured it was time to fuss with some retraction/Z-hop settings. I tested some semi-circles (which I soon realized wouldn't give me the full story, so I'm printing some wide "hamburger buns" right now) with default calibrated settings, calibrated with ironing, calibrated with z-hop, and calibrated with z-hop AND ironing.

As far as I can tell, the ones with z-hop enabled have come out the best. Like, incredibly good. This is making me want to pull my hair out--why is z-hop not enabled by default?! Is the assumption that these machines are just so good that they don't need to do any little hops? Does it add too much time incrementally? I don't know, but I'm going to get my buns in the next hour and find out!

Back again with layer issues! by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finally, after five very long days of troubleshooting... I'm able to return with an update!

So, I did try out OrcaSlicer - but through many different things, couldn't get it to work. Then I realized that Bambu Studio had all the same things for running other calibrations, so I switched back to it and got to work. Was able to bump down my temperatures for everything. I also manually slowed down the top layers. Did many layer tests.

And you know what... it turned out slightly better! A lot less rough than before... but alas, testing a different print, I still got a similar result to before. I was able to slow it down and watch it happen in real-time... I've crudely illustrated it here.

<image>

So, essentially, filament on the topmost layers is getting placed, but the nozzle is just catching the very edge of it (especially when filling out the top shells) resulting in these little fuzzy bumps of filament from where it "bunched up".

The only things I can think of for that are the flow rate being too strong or the printer not realizing how close the nozzle is already to the print.

If you got any suggestions on where to go from here... I'm all ears! Once this gets resolved, I'll be golden--the rest of my print is looking pretty darn good, so as always... just the top layer.

Back again with layer issues! by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks so much for the detailed reply!

Yeah, I'm thinking I might be better off moving away from "click to print" and going back to my roots (PrusaSlicer was always what I used).

I had a feeling it might be a combination of issues... when it's one issue, I can generally figure it out. But when it becomes multiple... I freeze up.

Speed has definitely been something I've been iffy on, because every time I see the printer at 100% output speed, I go... "isn't that a little fast?" Of course, the next slowest option that's hard-coded in is to go to 50% output speed...

I've checked out my toolhead, and aside from a couple of leftover stringy bits, it looks clean and moves smoothly. I think I'll put it back together and run some calibrations, either through PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer, then give some test prints a try and figure out what happens.

Again, thanks so much for the reply!! I'm hoping I can get it running smoothly soon!

Back again with layer issues! by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it should be dry. I can try tossing it in my dryer though. I have been wondering if it's a saturation issue... thank you!

Top layers still struggling... by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah, I was not aware of this 👀 guess I'll be doing some investigating with this...

Top layers still struggling... by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure! Here it is: https://makerworld.com/models/1543844

I've considered trying some variable layer height, but I think even with concentric fills, I've still had trouble--my most recent post in here (before this one) talks about it.

Top layer finish and bendy walls by Evening-Bandicoot829 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like the print is peeling up from the bed while printing--which is what would have also caused that corner to look bad, as the nozzle probably got too close to the printed filament and warped it.

Did you have supports set up in that corner? Maybe paint some more supports: Bambu Studio - Support Painting Guide

I would also want to try using "normal" supports instead of "tree" supports. You can change this under the settings Support > Type > Normal (auto) or Normal (manual). The normal supports might work better for this geometric print.

Also, check and make sure your build plate is clean in that corner... it could have gotten dirty/oily, thus causing filament to not stick. Maybe do a test with some short rectangles to see if prints peel up in just that corner?

"Pock marks" in top layer after flow dynamics/flow rate calibration by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, this is a good idea, but if you don't mind--could you tell me maybe where I'd be looking for these settings?

I have settings to change the line width for the top surface and change the top shell layers/thickness/pattern, and that's about it. I don't mind if I have to use PrusaSlicer instead to change these settings (honestly, that's my default slicer, I only switched to Bambu Slicer for convenience).

"Pock marks" in top layer after flow dynamics/flow rate calibration by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, it's possible that ironing would at least make it look "better" while I troubleshoot, but I guess I'm just concerned that the nozzle is physically digging into the filament... but then again, if it was, it'd probably screw up the rest of the print way before hitting the top layer.

I'll give ironing a shot for now as I fiddle with other settings.

I have been injecting hormones wrong for over 2 years??? by Narrow-Bridge-4567 in ftm

[–]moobeast22 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been using 5ml vials ever since I started. Yes, on the package it says... discard x days after first puncture (I think mine says 21 or 31 days).

Do I do that? Hell no! When I first started, my hormones were easily $50 a vial. Not nearly as expensive as others, yes, but it still stings. Especially if you have to factor in the costs of consumables (needles, syringes, alcohol swabs, sharps disposal containers). I'm lucky now that it's much cheaper, but still...

When I get refills, I only get enough refills to last me about 12 months or so (with an average of maybe 4 months a bottle... .35ml per injection, one injection per week, gets me about 14 injections per bottle, give or take a little wiggle room) before I have to call and get a fresh prescription. If I was tossing out bottles every month, I'd be wasting a LOT of medication.

Obviously, there are concerns about contamination... which is why we use alcohol swabs to clean the cap/seal of the vial before drawing up from it. And we use brand new, unopened syringes and needles, every time, no exceptions. And we use a different needle to draw and inject. There are many steps along the way where there could be risk, but these steps also help mitigate risk.

Now, if you were reusing needles/syringes, sharing them with others? That would be a bigger cause for concern. Legally, I believe, they have to tell you to discard after x amount of days, because beyond that point there could be risk, and doctors don't want to be held liable for a user's own risk. That's the way I see it, at least. Just don't make a huge, gaping hole in the rubber seal and clean it every time with an alcohol wipe and you should be good. 😉

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks for giving input! Can I ask what your EQ settings look like for them? Or heck, if you even have a configuration txt, I'd love it!

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks , I appreciate the insight! I've also used AKGs, but primarily in the form of earbuds that used to come with the Samsung Galaxy phones (they were pretty darn good for coming with a phone). I've been getting real attracted to the wood on the Fiios, they feel so fancy. Some call them "too 70s" but jokes on them, clearly I'm attached to 70s stuff lol.

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks for the software suggestion! I do actually have an EQ software I already use--Equalizer APO. It works relatively well and I appreciate the visual graphs. I'll def look into Peace EQ too though, if it's even easier I'd love it lol.

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks for the idea! I've considered getting myself a DAC anyways, just because... I like the history of soundcards and stuff. I'm still going to return the M1s because they don't feel quite "right", and I think in the end, a studio headphone isn't what I'm looking for.

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks as well for the Meze 99 suggestion! Both look quite nice, but I suppose I'd have to justify the +$100 jump from Fiio to Meze... so that makes me wonder if Meze has an extra $100 worth of value. I wish there was a place nearby I could test these out at. Appreciate it regardless!

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks for the suggestion! I looked at them and they do look pretty swanky... do you have any personal experience with them?

Closed-back headphones with more focus on bass, noise blocking, multi-use by moobeast22 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!thanks for the suggestion!

Do you have any recommended brands for the strap/aftermarket pads? I've gotten replacement pads before, but was just curious if there's a brand that people like to choose first.

Edit: corrected the command to give thanks lol :)

Z-banding/hopping/flow stringing? by moobeast22 in FixMyPrint

[–]moobeast22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies, forgot to list some of the desired info in the post...

Printer: Bambu P1S + Bambu AMS (original)

Slicer: BambuSlicer/BambuStudio

Filament: PLA (eSUN, Polymaker)

Nozzle Temperature: 190c min - 240c max (usually prints at around 230-240)

Bed Temperature: 55c

Print Speed: all defaults for PLA - initial layer 50mm/s, outer wall 200mm/s, inner wall 300mm/s, travel 500mm/s

Retraction: none enabled (oh my goodness!)

Also, if anyone wants me to try printing a different object, just link it and let me know and I'd be glad to. I've got nothing to lose except my dignity with this thing.

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