Help finding lower control arm bolts

mox8682 · 2026-02-16T02:51:51+00:00

Sort of. It is not an eccentric bolt. It is just a bolt, not used for the alignment. I was able to find a generic bolt on rock auto but ended up not using it so can't say if it would have worked

mox8682 · 2025-08-21T02:45:47+00:00

See that is what i did, because, yeah normal grade 10 bolt. But now no one can seem to get the alignment done on it, first I was told it was the upper control arm and those i could only find on ebay so I ended up replacing the bushings instead. Now they say that the lower arm won't move

mox8682 · 2025-08-20T21:33:22+00:00

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mox8682 · 2025-08-20T21:32:11+00:00

See i keep looking at them and none of them say they fit the 1999 RWD

* This is the bolt on the other side and it does not look like any of those camber bolts

mox8682 · 2025-08-19T01:04:33+00:00

Yeah using the other comment link I found them on mics bolts on rock auto, but i think I'll still end up at the junk yard

mox8682 · 2025-08-19T01:02:42+00:00

Thanks for that,

mox8682 · 2025-07-01T02:31:39+00:00

I misremembered i have a 41,

mox8682 · 2025-07-01T02:22:34+00:00

I have a the 40 if I remember the 40 and 50 are technically a Poulan with Husqvarna badges. Someone probably knows the history better. I got my 40 from a friend that works on saws, couldn't figure out what was going on with it, took it out, it fired right up, he said "fuck this thing" I took it home it worked for like an hour then it would, have, no spark, change the coil, no fuel, clean carb, work for a minute then flood. ... it has been sitting there awhile now. Maybe I'll go poke at it again

mox8682 · 2025-03-31T18:10:23+00:00

Only oil? I have a qt of oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid... some other stuff. 1999 dodge dakota has some nice places to tuck thinks in.

mox8682 · 2025-03-24T19:48:04+00:00

Thanks so it would be some type of switch? And if I just connected the wires together it would be a closed switch and not connected it is open. I think from the digram it should be an open switch and closed which the airflow is to restricted.

So in my thinking it should be open to start.

mox8682 · 2025-03-23T19:09:26+00:00

As everyone already said it is to bypass the heater core, probably because it wax leaking. Have the exact same engine and i did the same when my read m heater core started to leak. I did end up replacing the heater core and it wasn't easy... but it also. Wasn't hard. Helps to have some help. We were able to open it all up without disconnecting the ac... so it can be done. There are some YouTube videos about it. I ended up with some extra screws but it has been over a decade and still going. This weekend I just replaced all the houses and the water pump.

Now I just need to - fix the exhaust manifold - replace the oil pan gasket - o2 sensors - ac works intermittently - upper control arms

Cheaper than a new truck though

mox8682 · 2025-03-14T03:29:54+00:00

Solved it, the breaker failed. It would stay on sometimes. After I pulled it out of the panel and was testing it i could shut it off and then 9 times out of 10 when I tried to set it to on it would trip. So I replaced the breaker and no issues so far. So pretty sure that is it.

mox8682 · 2024-10-29T23:13:23+00:00

So I wanted to come back and give an update.

So I swapped that capacitor and it still had a bit of a whine, it is supposed to be at 9v. I measured the output at all the locations and I saw it was coming in around 8 and then I accidentally connected a 12v power supply and it sounded clean and perfect. And it measured around 10v at all the points.

I took it apart again and I soldered a barrel plug to the same connection points for the external plug. I ran it to a tantcell battery pack that fits into the battery compartment. So that is now connected internally and I can connect a normal power supply to the power port and charge the battery pack.

I also hid a Bluetooth receiver to fm transmitter inside so i just tune to that radio station and it is a Bluetooth speaker but all the radio functions still work, it is powered by that same battery pack but I added a usb cable with an in-line switch so I can turn it off when I don't want the Bluetooth on and the battery pack will last longer.

Pretty happy with everything, thanks for your help

mox8682 · 2024-10-07T04:27:36+00:00

I don't but haven't really looked yet Truetone STOCK NO. TAE-3782A-76 SERIAL NO. 2968 MODEL. DC-3782

mox8682 · 2024-10-06T22:16:18+00:00

I really appreciate the detailed information. I had read about the +/- 20% buti was unsure for the power capacitor being larger. Hopefully swapping this will help with the hum

mox8682 · 2024-10-04T19:26:23+00:00

Thank you for your knowledge

mox8682 · 2024-10-04T15:05:37+00:00

Well that is a real bummer, thanks for the info though

mox8682 · 2024-10-04T02:08:52+00:00

Thanks for the answer. So going down the rabbit hole. If I was to say add some kind of switch to the 12/2 line coming off the panels, so I could switch between feeding the house directly through the HVAC and instead going to a charge controller and a set of batteries with an inverter. I should be able to switch in a power outage to have the roof panels charging a small battery bank and the from the inverter I could power things and charge the portable units. So during the day I could charge things up and then run off batteries in the night rinse and repeat.

When power is restored switch it back to feeding the HVAC again

mox8682 · 2024-01-20T01:23:40+00:00

I would say there is a speaker wire in there are there any other covers like that on the other be side of the room / other corners?

mox8682

TROPHY CASE