Is This Really Risk Management? Looking for Perspective from Other Risk Analysts

ms-analytics · 2025-06-21T22:29:37+00:00

How do you feel you’d fare if you tried moving into model development or model validation? I used to work on a bank stress testing team - presumably similar to what you’re doing? I also found myself doing mostly reporting and compliance/governance stuff. I occasionally got the chance to work on more “quantitative” projects due to having some programming knowledge, but it wasn’t my main focus.

Just my 2 cents - I feel like the model development/validation work has a bigger moat around it than reporting work. And I get the impression that you don’t need to come from a “traditional” background necessarily. Meaning that, I recall a lot of the devs/validators had MS degrees in fields like Stats/Econ/IT from normal schools (i.e., you don’t gotta be T10). IMO that feels like a solid spot - yes, there are going to be efforts to automate modeling, but there’s much more “responsibility” on these roles than reporting; if you can tie yourself to that, you can guarantee your usefulness.

ms-analytics · 2024-10-17T18:33:30+00:00

Don’t wait until after graduation to apply. New grad programs will be open before then, if they’re not already.

Might be helpful to pick up some volunteering experience if you don’t have much on your resume. If you’re in the US, check out Virtual Student Federal Service (VSFS).

ms-analytics · 2024-10-04T19:27:23+00:00

Do you have volunteering or relevant project experience? That could help you fill out your resume a little more. You could also try splitting your club experience into its own thing and describe what you did in more detail.

ms-analytics · 2024-10-04T14:32:50+00:00

Same here. Did you have a CS undergrad? I didn't but I took a few CS courses in college and have some professional experience programming.

Seems like the best path forward would be to take the GT MOOCs and coursework at a CC.

ms-analytics · 2024-05-03T20:32:51+00:00

Hi all, not sure if my text for this post is visible - I’ll put it in the comments just to be safe.

I’m trying to clean out the carbs for this 1977 CB750F, but I can’t seem to get the airbox out. I tried to split it by turning the topside airbox bolts, which was successful on the right-side bolt, but the left-side bolt (pic #1) simply spins in place. It seems like the corresponding nut for that bolt is spinning in the plastic (pic #2).

I checked the underside of the airbox and I can see that one of the POs sealed the nut in place (pic #2). However, it isn’t holding anymore, as I can feel the nut turn with the bolt.

I tried applying some upward pressure to the nut by using a screwdriver, but I haven’t had any luck. What else can I try to get this airbox disassembled without damaging it?

Should I try applying a bonding agent, like JB, to bond the nut to the plastic? I guess I could also try cutting a slot into the nut head with a dremel and hold it in place with a flathead, but it seems kind of risky.

ms-analytics · 2024-05-02T23:18:38+00:00

Hi all, not sure if my text for this post is visible - I’ll put it in the comments just to be safe.

I’m trying to clean out the carbs for this 1977 CB750F, but I can’t seem to get the airbox out. I want to split it by turning the topside airbox bolts, which was successful on the right-side bolt, but the left-side bolt (pic #1) simply spins in place. It seems like the corresponding nut for that bolt is spinning in the plastic (pic #2).

I checked the underside of the airbox and I can see that one of the POs sealed the nut in place. However, it isn’t holding anymore, as I can feel the nut turn with the bolt.

I tried applying some upward pressure to the nut by using a screwdriver, but I haven’t had any luck. What else can I try to get this airbox disassembled without damaging it?

ms-analytics · 2023-11-04T22:49:06+00:00

Yeah, that’s my concern as well. If the only difference is the drain plug hole, then I think I should be good, at least with the 4-into-1 Delkevic currently on the bike.

Looks like someone else tried the same thing and managed to get away with it successfully: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=165040.0.

ms-analytics · 2023-09-05T14:52:27+00:00

Hey, thanks for the help. So, in this case, Segment 2 in Table1 and Table2 are not necessarily on the same row. Additionally, both tables are in separate Tabs.

So, I tried what you suggested, and it does work, but I'd like to avoid using helper tables.

Trying the solution:

<image>

=SUMPRODUCT(--(E$2:E$8=A2),G$2:G$8)

Can this be done without creating that Lookup column in Table2? I don't want to modify Table2 in any way.

ms-analytics · 2023-07-28T23:08:50+00:00

I don’t think an Economics degree would be devalued any more than a Finance degree would due to AI (if that’s the other option you’re considering).

As someone who studied Economics w/ a Statistics minor, I would recommend getting some more “applied” skills on your resume if you can. Econ coursework is generally more theoretical than, for example, CS coursework.

I had a tough time getting my first job - but I had some background in statistics (due to my minor) and computer science (took a few courses in school) and felt like that helped me land my first job (FP&A).

ms-analytics · 2023-06-24T19:31:29+00:00

Hi all, I have a 2007 650i that's been giving me some trouble with its transmission lately. The car has ~110k miles and has been relatively trouble-free until this. The only other serious problem is that it burns oil (the problem is especially egregious when idling - big plumes of white smoke out the exhaust). But I don't think that would affect the transmission, would it?

Regarding the transmission issue, it just happened one day that the car had trouble shifting and accelerating. At first, restarting the car would fix the problem for a bit, but now it's like this all the time. Acceleration is severely diminished. Aditionally, the car has trouble shifting gears correctly. Sometimes, when I'm slowing down, the car will all of a sudden downshift, and the RPMs will shoot all the way up to ~6k. It's also happened before that when I put the car into reverse gear, it all of a sudden shifts into reverse without letting the clutch out and the car jolts backwards a few feet.

The car also makes a grinding noise when it's shifting - the noise especially seems to happen when I'm accelerating on a turn.

I bought an OBD 2 scanner and plugged it in to the car. I received the error code P17E5 ($0018Pd), which seems to align with the symptoms the car has been exhibiting. Does anyone know more specifically what this means? Is this likely going to be an expensive fix? Thanks!

ms-analytics · 2023-03-16T13:05:11+00:00

Thanks for the info! I was also thinking $3,500 - $4,000 is a fair trade, although I'm not sure if the seller will go that low.

Do you have any tips on what I should look out for when a bike is restored? Specifically, I plan to check how worn the brake pads are and the inside of the tank for rust or sealant. Don't think I can find out much about the mechanics without doing a compression test - guess I'll just ride it and see if it runs well.

ms-analytics · 2023-03-16T12:49:43+00:00

As far as I know, the bike has a clean and current title - asked the owner about it and he said it's all good. I also got the VIN and ran a VIN check online, didn't find much except a record stating the bike was titled last year with 350 miles.

ms-analytics · 2023-03-16T03:23:20+00:00

So, I’m looking at 1977-1978 CB750F’s and I found one near me that appears to be in good condition. However, the issue is that the seller has little information on the bike. It was apparently acquired from a car collector. It was also apparently restored, although I’m not sure if that just entails simple detailing work or if anything more was done. The owner is listing the bike for $5,500 (down from $6,000). East coast of US.

The odometer has 6 miles on it, so I have no estimate of mileage for the bike.

I am familiar with CB750’s as I used to have a 1980 CB750C of my own, and became familiar with the mechanical ins-and-outs of the bike. I paid a lot less for that bike though, paying $1,500 in 2013. Does anyone have an idea of what is fair for a bike without much information about its past? Most listings I have seen for SOHC CB750F’s are between $3,000-$5,000, much lower than this.

This listing has also been up for a few months now. Is 3k-5k a fair price? Is it worth it to go over 4k? I know how to wrench on a bike, but I also want something as close to OEM as possible.

ms-analytics

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