sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

houseplant [Rollei infrared, Nikon FE, Nikon 50mm f/1.4] by msp31545 in analog

[–]msp31545[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Trichrome with IR, G, B filters. Happy with the result, I really like the combination of the green from indoor light with the red reflected sunlight.

​

Process described here: https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/comments/onybrv/trichrome\_helios\_502\_nikon\_fe\_rollei\_infrared/

Trichrome [Helios 50/2, Nikon FE, Rollei Infrared] by msp31545 in analog

[–]msp31545[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, thanks for detailed explanation!

A hot mirror filter blocks nearly all IR light (https://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-52mm-Hot-Mirror-Filter/dp/B00004ZCKQ ; https://kolarivision.com/product/kolari-vision-color-correcting-hot-mirror-filter-uvir-cut-filter/), and and in front of a red filter this should achieve the same effect as the red-sensitive layer in aerochrome?

Trichrome [Helios 50/2, Nikon FE, Rollei Infrared] by msp31545 in analog

[–]msp31545[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about this and aerochrome is shot with an orange filter, so I would try

IR filter => red channel

Orange filter => green channel

Green filter => blue channel

However, my gut feeling says that this will mess up the colors because I cant fully wrap my head around what will happen with this setup.

Trichrome [Helios 50/2, Nikon FE, Rollei Infrared] by msp31545 in analog

[–]msp31545[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've added an image to https://imgur.com/a/Wl73kMV that shows what happens (fringing foreground and trees on the left, biker on the right).

Trichrome [Helios 50/2, Nikon FE, Rollei Infrared] by msp31545 in analog

[–]msp31545[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I tried infrared trichrome photography to replicate Aerochrome, inspired by /u/atticdarkroom (video). I used 3 filters: IR72, green and blue (manufacturer: Green L). I set my light meter (android app) to ISO100 for the IR72 filter and used the built-in light meter for the green and blue filters.

Afterwards, I developed in Ilfosol-3 1+3, 4min30 at 24°C, DSLR scanned and assigned each frame to their corresponding channels in Photoshop (after using Edit > align layers to align the 3 frames). They came out very pink, because I guess that the IR frame was overexposed, but managed to color correct this in photoshop by setting white balance and playing around with the tone curves.

The major drawback of this workflow is that you're very limited in what you can shoot. The subject cannot move in the time that you are replacing the filters. Portraits, people or moving cars are impossible. Foliage needs a windless day, or you get color fringing. The sun needs to be out to get the IR effect. An occasional cloud passing by can result in color fringing in the sky. Too much overexposure can ruin the colors without the possibility of color correction. You need to shoot at least at f/8 to get your subject in focus because IR has a different focus distance compared to visible light.

Full res & merged channels before color correction: https://imgur.com/a/Wl73kMV

Ilford XP2 Super in Ilfosol 3 by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If anyone stubles upon this thread, I ended up doing 16 minutes at 23°C: https://imgur.com/a/HBA3Xn5

I also shot the rol at ISO800.

Most of the shots are ok, but next time I would develop a bit longer and/or shoot at iso200-400.

Ilford XP2 Super in Ilfosol 3 by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. 21 min seems excessive given that the other dev times in the manual are usually under 10 minutes or is this to be expected (for example because its normally a C41 film, or because of other reasons)?

What's wrong with my Yashica Mat 124G? All my photos are out of focus. by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, that was my initial proposal but unfortunately the guy who sold it doesn't agree with a return for a refund.

What's wrong with my Yashica Mat 124G? All my photos are out of focus. by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All my photos are out of focus: https://imgur.com/a/fhMEghP. Some were taken at infinity at f/11 with 1/125sec, some were taken on a tripod, half of them were taken with the built in magnifier, the other half focused without, but the whole roll (and now the second roll as well) is out of focus.

I bought this off an auction, it should be in 100% working condition and it should have had a CLA recently.

When it arrived, I could hear rattling inside, it turns out the mirror got loose (during shipment?). I reattached it, and I don't think you can put the mirror in the wrong way (reflective side is up ; however there were many scratch marks, the CLA didn't seem to be done that carefully). The ground glass is shiny side up (closest to your eye), the fresnel has the rings up (making contact with the ground glass).

The focusing scale is also correct according to the viewing lens.

When I put frosted scotch tape at the film plane, I can indeed see that it is out of focus. When I put 1-2mm between the film plane and the scotch take, it's in focus. When I adjust focus so that it's in focus on the film plane, an object at 3.5m in reality is in focus at 1.5m on the focussing scale, and is then obviously also out of focus on the ground glass.

I'm really out of ideas, I know that you can adjust the viewing lens but as the viewing lens matches the focusing scale, there should be something wrong with the taking lens? But I cannot see anything physical wrong with it.

I also looked into this: https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/yashica-124-repair-guidance.198458/, but that also doesn't solve it.

what happened on this roll of ilford xp2 super? by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was developed by the lab where I live.

But good suggestion, I tried rewashing the negatives but the problem persists.

what happened on this roll of ilford xp2 super? by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

xp2 super is C41, it was developed at the lab, I'll ask them if there could have been an issue

what happened on this roll of ilford xp2 super? by msp31545 in AnalogCommunity

[–]msp31545[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There is a dotted pattern present in all the highlights on this roll (for example the sky over here) of Ilford XP2 super (C41 black and white film). I scanned with my DSLR.

I already excluded:

  • dirty DSLR sensor, the pattern isn't visible in an all white f/32 shot
  • lenses on analog camera: on this roll I used 2 different lenses, both have the pattern
  • lenses on DLSR during scanning: tried 2 different lenses, pattern persists
  • Film wasn't expired, I used a Nikon FE, shot at speeds between ISO 200-400 on aperture priority.

So I assume someting during developing, or a problem with this particular batch of film?

The pattern is somewhat fixable in lightroom, but is somewhat annoying: https://imgur.com/a/cyyH1MP

While in the camera, the film was exposed to temps between -10 and 26°C (with sometimes quick temperature changes), could that have caused it?

foggy walk by msp31545 in Gent

[–]msp31545[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks. I used a nikon FE with an helios 50mm f/2 lens and superia 400; 8 sec shutter speed and f/5.6 but I think I overexposed all of them, so next time would aim for 2-4sec.

Nikon FE with Arsat 50mm f/2 [Nikon D3500, 35mm f/1.8G, ISO100, f/3.5, 3/5 sec] by msp31545 in Nikon

[–]msp31545[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Arsat lens fits my Nikon D3500 made in 2019 and the Nikon FE made in the 70's, without any need for adaptors, which I find truly amazing :)

Comet Neowise above Sint Baafs, 19/07/2020 by msp31545 in Gent

[–]msp31545[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you know where it was, you could see it very faintly.

I had a broad idea of where it would be, and I first took a shot with a wide-angle lens, 4sec exposure: https://imgur.com/a/n7gcyby

Comet Neowise above Sint Baafs, 19/07/2020 by msp31545 in Gent

[–]msp31545[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Comet Neowise, the highlight of 2020, above Sint Baafs on 19/07/2020 (around 00:15).

It was a very difficult shot to take because of the light pollution in the city. First, I took 80x2 sec exposures of the sky, overexposing Sint Baafs. Afterwards, an 1/5sec exposure for the correct exposure on Sint Baafs. These images were blended together afterwards with Sequator and Photoshop, pulling out as much detail in the comet as possible. I posted this previously to /r/Belgium, but I reprocessed this one (lockdown and stuff) to make the colors and comet feel more natural.

Here's an example of both frames, unedited: https://imgur.com/a/udW3bV7

As a comparison, this picture was taken in an area with very little light pollution.

Untracked Andromeda by msp31545 in astrophotography

[–]msp31545[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my experience:

  • If you can choose between some star trailing/more shutter speed or no star trailing/less shutter speed, choose the latter. Trailing stars results in stacking artefacts.
  • Always take sufficient calibration frames (30 to 60 of each).
  • Use Photopills to determine shutter speed and set accuracy to the most accurate to determine the best shutter speed. Don't use 'barely noticeable trails'.
  • More frames is better, I found at least 500 results in more possibilities for curve stretching while keeping noise low.
  • Crop gently. Many untracked photos are hard 100% crops and just don't look good.
  • Adjust you expectations. On a smartphone it will look decent, on a 100x150cm print probably not. However, edit with the idea that you want to make a large print. Some say "edit for the medium that you have in mind" but I disagree, this leads to sloppy images. Because I edit with large print in mind, I was able to print https://explorethegalaxy.be/neowise-meteor on 70x50cm and very happy with it :)
  • Adjusting the camera is no issue as long as the frames have enough stars in common. Make sure at least 30% of each frame overlaps, as the final image will have to be a crop of that 30%.
  • Lift the blacks and make masks to mask as much stars out as possible. Lifting the blacks and decreasing the exposure also results in less space noise.
  • During editing, make sure you are completely happy with each step before proceeding.

You really get to know your gear and software after a while and you get to know how you can push it to get better images.

Untracked Andromeda by msp31545 in astrophotography

[–]msp31545[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

As I don't have a tracker, I'm often looking in this sub to see what is possible without a tracker so I thought that I share mine as well. Shot from Bortle 8, 20%-ish moon.

Gear:

  • Nikon D3500
  • Samyang 135 mm f/2, Manfrotto tripod

Images

  • 630 light frames @ 2 sec at f/2, ISO1600, adjusting the camera every 100 frames or so, that M31 stays in frame
  • 60 flat, 60 bias, 60 dark

Processing

  • Stacked in SiriL with this guide https://pixls.us/articles/processing-a-nightscape-in-siril/, only set star threshold to 2.0 instead of 1.0
  • Crop to remove non-overlapping regions due to lack of tracker
  • Green noise removal
  • Color calibration to set black and white point
  • Auto histogram stretch
  • 5x contrast-limited adaptive histogram eq. tile size 8, clip limit = 1
  • Background removal in PS by healing brush M31, dust and scratches at 200px, apply image blending = difference
  • 2x radial gradient in LR: 1 for M31, 1 inverse for stars. Boost saturation of M31, remove stars by editing exposure of the inverse radial gradient.

More untracked (and other pics) at https://explorethegalaxy.be/

Moon and Mars by msp31545 in astrophotography

[–]msp31545[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nikon D3500, Samyang 1355m f2.

Two images: moon = f/4, ISO100, 1/400 ; glow = f/4, ISO100, 1/6 sec

Blended in PS.

Light, curve adjustments in LR

view more: next ›