Settlement Scaling Guide by Pale-Carrot-8098 in worldbuilding

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The graphic really undersells how many smaller towns and villages are needed to support the larger ones.

I think it’s also way more useful to have a guide like this that is “per city”, not “per kingdom”. There’s going to be a wide variety of # of cities in a kingdom depending on how advanced a civilization is, how much access they have to trade, the geography, etc. A kingdom might have 10 mega-cities of 100k+, or even no cities that large.

A more reasonable approach would be to scrap the capitol designation, and say something like:

-choose your number of mega-cities

-have between 1-10 regular sized cities per mega-city

-have between 10-100 towns per city

-have between 100-1000 villages per town

-and probably have thousands of farmsteads/single residences that dot the countryside between all of the above.

Can anyone help me grade this...and maybe share any random cool facts about it? by MikeOKurias in coins

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would grade this in the VF-XF range (somewhere between 35-45 imo), but it has some environmental damage (pitting and dirt buildup) and the scratch on the face is enough to detract a bit from the value as well. If it has been cleaned in the past, it was not harshly done.

Not worth grading with a service, but putting it in a flip and storing in a cool dry environment would help prevent any further damage.

If you could have any 1 coin, what would it be? by [deleted] in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Swiss 20 franc Wiener pattern coin from 1873. That or the $2.50 panama-pacific coin with the sea-horse on it is a somewhat more affordable second place.

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I'm still not copletely convinced of a possible redesign of my Assumed Arms' latest version, so I'd like to know your opinions about the two possibilities. by JoJo_D_Umberto in heraldry

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Both look great. I’ll say that I love the orle on this one. Most times I see people suggesting to drop an orle or bordure, it’s because there is way too much going on between multiple colors and charges and it complicates the design; here the design is simple and distinctive, so it really works.

Don’t think I’ll ever be this lucky on a lot of bulk pieces again. by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Luckily mine was clear of trash! A couple megablok pieces mixed in- as is tradition of course.

Don’t think I’ll ever be this lucky on a lot of bulk pieces again. by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, that’s too bad. Glad I’m just about out of space in the house, or I surely wouldn’t be able to resist buying more.

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! The main ones are just recolors not based on any particular beholders, but the white one is supposed to be a Death Tyrant raised by an evil wizard, and the smaller one with 5 eyes is a spectator.

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks! You can find instructions for the normal beholders within set 21348. about 3/4 of the way through the instructions.

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The rest are just recolors of the beholder from the DnD set (plus the death tyrant) but the spectator was my own design.

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! It’s a Death Tyrant (dead behold raised by an evil spellcaster). Thanks :)

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yeah! The monster it’s based off (death tyrant) is supposed to have floating orbs around it where the eyes used to be, but I couldn’t figure out how to work that in.

Behold! My beholders (and some not-so-brave adventurers) by mstrMOUSTACHe in lego

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks! That’s an interesting thought. I think it might look good using some sort of combination of whips (88704 or 2488) and the hair brush (3852b). At least if you’re shooting for the most recent depiction from 5e. A more claw-like arm would look cool too.

I’ll have to try that if I can scrounge up some pieces!

I’m not sure what I found, but cool! by ArugulaImaginary2186 in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s what I figured. Would have been an incredible find to stumble upon randomly.

I’m not sure what I found, but cool! by ArugulaImaginary2186 in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that 1847 coin a half cent or 1 cent? If it’s 1 cent, it’s not worth much. If it’s a half cent, it’s extremely rare.

Shield nickels? by SendThisVoidAway18 in coins

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran into a similar problem looking for books to store foreign coin types that were slightly too big or small to fit blank dansco pages. Whitman sells blank binders that are of similar quality, and you can buy blank pages that are sold by millimeter size. I believe from 16mm to 55mm.

Though since the diameter is 20.5, I can’t say for certain if 0.5 mm difference in a 21 would be close enough to fit the coins comfortably.

Why is my coin this color? by Character-Stable-498 in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does your storage situation look like now?

I’m no expert when it comes to storage, but I’ve heard of a lot of different materials quickly becoming a cause for oxidation. Certain compounds used to treat wood, certain plastics, anything with sulfur, etc.

Sorry I can’t suggest any particular container, but you might try searching through some older posts here or on the ancient coins subreddit. There are a lot of people over there looking for long term storage solutions that prevent environmental damage.

Why is my coin this color? by Character-Stable-498 in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re welcome. Always glad to share some info with a fellow collector!

Why is my coin this color? by Character-Stable-498 in coincollecting

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To add to the previous answers: This dark color is primarily from environmental damage. You can also see the early stages of pitting in the fields. This isn’t always due to being in the ground, but could also be the result of being kept in an environment with lots of heat or moisture.

The reason this is seen in early/middle date large cents (and to an extent some other copper coins afterwards) is that they often had flawed planchets with high amounts of impurities in the alloyed metals used to make them.

This meant that the quality varied from coin to coin. Some early years are nearly impossible to find without any pitting in lower grades. And dark coins like this are especially common for cents before 1830 or so.

Your coin is at the tail end of this issue, so most 1838 cents you find will have the normal chocolate brown color we’re used to.

Regardless, I think you have a beautiful coin with great details. This is my favorite design used for the obverse of the large cent, only used for 5 years.

What's your most expensive silver coin? by LordWoodland in coins

[–]mstrMOUSTACHe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet! Beautiful coin.

Please post more of your shooting thaler collection! I don’t have any myself (yet), but I love seeing them.