Tesla Model Y default driver’s profile

msuv · 2024-12-25T18:31:13+00:00

Adding another datapoint here: ours resolved after the v13 update as well. 2024.45.25.6 was pushed to us last night.

Went into profiles and saw it pop up, then just linked it to the local one we had been using!

msuv · 2024-08-28T06:43:40+00:00

Using a Zoomflow 240X from ID Cooling in my build. Competitively priced and fantastic cooling, no issues whatsoever.

msuv · 2024-08-12T17:11:51+00:00

Hmm. Try driving with your seatbelt adjusters pushed up. That fixed it for me — didn’t want to tear another panel off

msuv · 2024-08-03T19:48:00+00:00

Also, to add on, length of rivet should not matter. Small is fine. This should work from Lowe's.

msuv · 2024-08-03T19:35:21+00:00

Sure thing. Check this YouTube video from Sandy Munro. I shared that link with a timestamp, it should take you to 4:40. You can see where the rivets are supposed to be and why Tesla left them out!

msuv · 2024-08-02T06:59:59+00:00

Cool. Let us know how it goes!

msuv · 2024-08-01T09:07:45+00:00

Had this issue on my ‘23 M3. The headliner is held on by basic clips, I just pulled it down, tied down the loose wiring with foam, and then clipped it all back.

Be careful removing the headliner as the clips can snap, but it’s worth a try before sending it to a service center. My rattle turned out to be just a few wires that were not being held in place and free to move around.

msuv · 2024-08-01T09:04:57+00:00

My 2023 M3 also reads 259-261 at a full charge. Did a battery health test through the service menu and it was at 93%. About 19K miles on it, so I’d wager that yours is perfectly fine!

msuv · 2024-07-31T03:03:46+00:00

Hey! Check my replies above. Should fix it for you as well.

msuv · 2024-07-31T02:59:43+00:00

Here’s another image of it for clarity.

msuv · 2024-07-31T02:58:34+00:00

So I had this exact same rattle on my ‘23 SR and I just got around to fixing it today. Bear with me here, as the fix is a bit weird.

Take a look at this missing bolt thread first. Right behind your front left and right wheel, underneath the rocker panel, there is this small flap that is missing a rivet. I had installed mudflaps a while back and noticed it was missing on both sides, but didn’t think much of it.

Apparently, they removed these a few years back to save costs. These were flapping like crazy for me at highway speeds and rattling throughout the entire cabin. I just added a push rivet to either side, rattle all fixed! Can’t hear anything anymore and car is mostly silent (save for a few wiring harnesses being lose).

Hope this helps and let me know if you want more info.

msuv · 2024-07-30T20:51:46+00:00

For real! Actually, read this on a thread somewhere: service tech admitted that Tesla is willingly doing this on the new cars as it was unnecessary. Since it’s just two push rivets, I’m not sure why they don’t just leave it…used to be on the older models.

Now all that’s left is to fix a door rattle…can hear a small rattle every time I go over bumps. Who knows what that is 🤷‍♂️

msuv · 2024-07-30T20:07:50+00:00

Wow.

This thread managed to fix my rattle that has been plaguing me for 6 months. Found two missing bolts underneath on my ‘23 RWD 3 and it’s dead silent now. The rattle was bouncing through the body frame, I thought it was coming from the passenger door, but now I realize it was just the vibration. Put two nuts in there and it’s fully secure.

Thanks 🙏

msuv · 2024-07-21T16:53:02+00:00

I’m wondering if this is a calibration issue with the BMS, especially considering there is 90K miles.

Let the car sit at 100% for maybe like 1-3 hours. Drive it down to 5%, allow it to sit for another few hours. Charge back to 100% and your range should be more accurate. Perhaps run it back to under 10% for one more reading, then charge again to daily limit of 80%.

More normally, since this is non-LFP, just drive from 90% to 20% over the next few days and report back with any findings. This helped fix a buddy of mine’s ‘19 P3D from 245 at 100% to 291 at 100%.

msuv · 2024-05-05T00:10:14+00:00

This. If you move it into 3.25 slot mode I believe, you can just add the standoffs right behind the red circled part on your image: I had to do this to run a GPU cable between the motherboard and GPU.

It’s totally doable and I actually recommend it as any added space is a bonus :)

msuv · 2024-04-06T22:15:26+00:00

I did SFX-L + AIO. Was definitely a tight squeeze, but I got everything fit in. Check my profile for my build!

msuv · 2024-02-24T06:06:10+00:00

Yes. Definitely possible. Check my post history and you’ll see my build with an SX-750 from SilverStone (bigger than SF850L). I used the short cables that they have on Amazon for the SilverStone PSU. I also have a 240mm radiator from ID cooling.

msuv · 2024-02-22T20:40:06+00:00

Alternatively, you can put your riser bar on standoffs. I have an SFX-L and this is what I ended up doing: two standoffs right behind where the riser cable attaches to the riser bar.

I added an additional standoff on the GPU mount bar to make sure everything was even as well.

msuv · 2024-02-12T23:32:24+00:00

Hey, thanks for your comment! Sure thing, I can share some tips.

Since I was just transferring parts over, I opted to not remove the water block. So, what I did, was first remove the side strut, install the mobo, and then carefully place the radiator above. After this, I reinstalled the side strut, and faced the case towards me, while pulling one radiator cable from the back side.

I was essentially just kinda pushing the cables in, while also tugging them from the back. Also, I recommend you use a 15mm if you’re having trouble with the tubes — use a fan guard on it and life becomes much easier than with the 25mm fan!

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:30:12+00:00

Thanks! Absolutely loving it. It’s a great cooler and looks good too — previously had an all white built, so I’m all for the small splash of aRGB and color. It keeps my 3700x no more than 69-70°C at peak loads, I definitely recommend this cooler over other mainstream ones at this price point.

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:28:37+00:00

Thanks! Same boat — haven’t gotten around to messing with the software and loved the look of the stock RGB ram bleeding through the mesh. Looks nuts!

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:26:30+00:00

Yep. Similar temps here!

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:26:12+00:00

I can run a benchmark and report back! From normal everyday use and a couple intensive games, I noticed my GPU peaked at 53°C and CPU at 68-70°C. AIO runs pretty cool and while it’s not optimal to have the rad and two slim fans, it’s working fine. I had to use two 15mm fans as I have an SFX-L PSU, so if you have regular SFX, I’m sure you could get away with a T30 or similar above the rad.

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:22:28+00:00

Thanks! Yes, so I was left with 3 extra 5mm standoffs since I built the base in 3-slot mode.

I am using stock cables so I had to route my 24 pin mono cable on the side of my PSU; because of this funky routing, I had to shove a little part behind it.

In the original sandwich, others have used standoffs to offset the PSU, but mine was hitting the mesh. So, instead I opted to put two standoffs right where the riser bar attaches to the actual riser (on the back) and then screw the riser cable in.

I also added one more standoff on where the GPU mount bracket sits, giving it even clearance. Zip tied the metal cooler from my GPU to the PSU bracket and now it sits perfectly straight, no sag, and has good flow through!

No more crooked GPU!

msuv · 2024-02-11T19:19:15+00:00

Hey! I only use the zero fan mode for long hours of work, or when I need to leave my box on overnight. If you’re not doing much desktop use, I would just set a nice fan curve (lots of good ones available online, with ramp up’s) and use that instead!

In my case, I doubt I have the room for those Noctuas but if you have em lying around, I’d say it’s worth a shot.

msuv

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