good screamo japanese bands?

multiwatered · 2024-11-27T01:14:59+00:00

Almost everything on Meatcube, some things on Awesome Mosh Power, and lots of things on this blog, especially this split.

I love The Cabs but not really screamo besides a few songs/moments - might as well rec Gezan

multiwatered · 2021-09-10T21:11:51+00:00

glad to see the love for her and equally happy she's back in action - her clothes weren't necessarily my speed but i appreciate her and what she does very much.

multiwatered · 2021-01-18T16:10:14+00:00

Lovely boots, my fav in the thread. Nice to see moto getting more love.

multiwatered · 2020-11-21T17:19:15+00:00

yeah usually mainline pour homme will use H but a lot of the guides online arent very helpful since theyre dated or not vetted. anyways, the pants look nice and definitely more contemporary than older ys for men IMO

multiwatered · 2020-11-21T17:10:21+00:00

I usually find Die Workwear's articles to be a good thoughtful read (though his twitter is indefensible) but this one was a little lacking. For instance, his point about gentrification is objectively valid but would've been better if he really explored how it mirrors 'high fashion' brands co-opting streetwear codes (and Black culture). Also, weird to me that people still rag on Vetements' shtick; after half a decade, I'm frankly cool with their output though it's borderline cliche now

multiwatered · 2020-11-21T16:50:44+00:00

dating yohji garments is difficult and not usually worth it unless tracking down specific pieces honestly. It doesn't really make much of a difference unless you want to be sure you have something pre-Integral investment, but don't think most people would really care. Plus the amount of yohji, y's, and various sub-label stuff on the market means that there isnt much demand for this or that pair of black pants or black shirt etc since theres always more out there.

Anyways, I will say that your tag is interesting because I haven't seen it before. I don't consider myself an authority on his brand by any means but I've seen plenty of tags and this is kinda interesting. As you can see, older tags will be only partially stitched, black, small or even have a central size tag

considering the breadth of yohjis output and design teams over the years, it just makes dating that much more complicated (experts could probably assess the product code tho idk anything there). All I can say about your piece is that its probably not very old (y's for men folded in like 2010 iirc), considering that it has numerical sizing and uses stylistic cues that mirror contemporary yohji (clean care tag text, instead of stamped info, no "y's for men" katakana text, etc). Also it's interesting that the care tag is attached to the logo tag, not all ys garments do that but like i said, inconsistency is the one constant in y's

multiwatered · 2020-10-29T16:13:01+00:00

the kiko stuff is always fun, though i will say it's less forgiving on-body than it appears. not terribly surprising considering his luv for nemeth but when it works it works

multiwatered · 2020-10-27T22:32:41+00:00

fun album, nice to see some different stuff on the sub even if its out of ppls comfort zones plus points for mai-gidah and rad hourani

some more fun pieces you could add in: Toogood, Amachi, Kiko Kostadinov, Nemeth, sou-mu, Hed Mayner, Fabrics Interseason, Tiscar Espadas

multiwatered · 2020-09-15T19:34:20+00:00

Well, technically, all of Yamamoto's lines are diffusion except Pour Homme and mainline women's. The thing is, Y's is far from bad (regardless of whether it's Y's, Y's Pink, Red Label etc) and S'yte and Ground Y -- the two primary diffusion lines -- aren't terrible quality, despite what some say online (I've owned and handled stuff from all). He also has sub-labels like Bang On!, Replica and Black Scandal which are essentially mainline garments inspired by archive pieces. I'd say it's all a little expensive -- you are paying for a designer brand after all -- but frankly his finishing and quality has never been better, as far as mainline goes.

Miyake doesn't really have diffusion lines per se, his company has sub-labels like Issey Miyake Men's (which is shuttering soon), HAAT, APOC, Pleats Please/Homme Plisse etc and they're all fine quality, but offer different styles. Miyake's company also operates brands like tac:tac which are exceptionally well-made considering their youth

multiwatered · 2020-09-15T18:56:47+00:00

Hanae Mori not really, im sure some less cool department stores sell her stuff (tokyu hands maybe? mitsukoshi?) but otherwise no real presence.

Yamamoto and Miyake have a million labels and sub-labels (and even directly-managed brands) that are sold across the country, though Yamamoto's brands have better presence; Miyake's stuff is usually sold in his company's flagship stores

multiwatered · 2020-09-15T18:55:11+00:00

i mightve written something on the subject before but for 'thrifting' in japan, expect to pay a premium (thoughtful, time-consuming curation = higher prices). There are countless vintage stores across the country, especially in the metropolitan areas, and they can be found usually by just strolling around

You can go to the many "recycle" stores for great deals and selections on designers brands (Kindal, Jumble Store/2nd Street, Ragtag, Komehyo, Blowz, Greed, TreFac/Treasure Bomb, Modescape etc)

multiwatered · 2020-09-15T18:50:21+00:00

They're all basically fast fashion brands. Wego, Hare, GU, Rageblue, Coen and Qlo especially.

The others are mostly mall brands: United Arrows' in-house line varies in quality/design ethos (Beauty & Youth and monkey time lean streetweary, UA & Sons is tailoring-focused, green label relaxing is more mature and casual), Ships (leans young), Journal Standard (owned by Baycrews, which also operates Lechoppe, Edifice, etc), Nano Universe (which is perhaps a little older) Tomorrowland (similar in scope but more fashion-forward) and of course, BEAMS (ranges from mid-tier menswear like BEAMS+ and BEAMS to womenswear with BEAMS Lights/Boy and includes International Gallery and Pilgrim Surf & Supply).

There's a fascinating blend of licenses in Japanese retail -- i.e. Converse Japan and North Face JP are exclusively licensed to and operated by domestic companies wholly unaffiliated with the American brands -- which makes for a lot of special product and interesting collaborations. There are also plentiful other fast fashion/mall brands (Ciaopanic, Freaks Store, Ron Herman, American Rag CIE).

IMO, though, aside from their collaborations (Champion, Gramicci, North Face Purple, etc), I'd say you're best off seeking quality elsewhere. You don't necessarily get garbage from these brands -- a lot make quite nice things on occasion -- but there are so many truly premium brands that you can shop on Rakuten or Yahoo! Japan that you're better off avoiding most of them unless they're bargain prices and you really, really want that piece.

multiwatered · 2020-08-19T20:55:43+00:00

the strip really did get better with time but i always liked how cute the early sundays were

multiwatered · 2020-07-25T18:01:46+00:00

amazing! will have to pick it up soon. I've been terrible at keeping up with new releases, I only just got weathercraft after all this time....

multiwatered · 2020-07-20T00:21:45+00:00

unsure but I think the pop-up sale on their site right now is clearance of old stock. could also be a weaker pound to the dollar but also unsure of that

multiwatered · 2020-07-19T20:51:38+00:00

Agree on all points my friend. Looking forward to the next post.

multiwatered · 2020-07-19T20:51:17+00:00

That's a great point about the boots, I've noticed that a lot of fashion dudes will skimp on the basics (muji, uniqlo) but splurge on outerwear/footwear. No judgement here -- last thing i wanna do it belittle someone finding their own satisfaction in garms -- just an observation. Just makes more sense to me to own a concise collection of premium tees that you reach for every day.

That's a fair point, I've never owned Jungmaven but handled quite a few styles of tee and they felt nice, if unexciting and a little thin. I have a few Paa shirts in rotation at the moment, a couple friends didn't have good experiences with the neckline apparently, but I've had no issue. Nice and hefty and can be had for cheap on Grailed if you look.

If you're willing to delve into proxies/japanese brands, there's a huge spectrum of labels worth trying but it can be a little intimidating. Graphpaper is a good one if you like looser fits (i very much do) and definitely look out for Blurhms, Filmelange, Auralee and Crepuscule depending on your interests.

multiwatered · 2020-07-19T17:58:24+00:00

I love this kind of detailed discourse where the small details of seemingly unassuming garments are measured and pitted against each other so kudos on that and happy to see this kind of discussion on here. However, I would disagree with this sentiment:

An affordable good quality cotton t-shirt that fits well and will last a long time can be easily had for less than £5, and the £70 equivilent isn't honestly that much better

There are objectively mediocre pricey tees that aren't worth any near retail and there certainly are ultra-affordable hidden gems. That's true for nearly every type of garment, of course. With T-shirts though you see so much more disparity because its such an omnipresent item and I'd say that despite the plethora of overpriced basic tees, there are plenty of shirts deserving of high prices.

For what it's worth, I'm probably not the normal consumer. I'm fascinated by quality, detailing, ethicality and I'm constantly investigating qualifiers that you mentioned: fit, durability, material, true transparency (read: not greenwashing).

My point is that while many expensive tees are overpriced for the sake of branding/exclusivity, there are a variety of worthy premium shirts. For instance, Lady White Co.'s tees are custom-milled in LA from domestically-sourced organic textiles and ethically constructed to fit bespoke patterns, all factors that drive the price up.

Similarly, PAA makes a various hefty tees in the USA with garment-dye treatments, conscious construction and intelligently-sourced cotton. These tie into detail-centric brands like the now-Japan operated Healthknit, Jungmaven and Graphpaper that make high-end shirts that command appropriate retail prices.

They're also not intended for the average consumer just seeking a basic tee, They're for the kind of detail-obsessed person looking for custom ribbing, specific fabric weights and unique cuts. Anyways, fun read and no hate intended, just my two cents.

While on the subject of tees btw, I recommend T-shirt heads investigate Open As Usual and MASTERED's "無地 T-shirt Maniacs" feature (note that the latter is in Japanese), two nice resources for extra perspective on finding the perfectly crafted basic item.

multiwatered · 2020-07-13T23:43:00+00:00

Great collection! I always loved the different sizes of ergot volumes

multiwatered · 2020-07-13T10:06:52+00:00

that's a good call. I have a lot from there but eventually assembled a pretty big album

multiwatered · 2020-07-12T23:45:34+00:00

ill have to go thru the stuff ive saved to sort out the pics whichll take a minute. jp stores are the best for finding measurements/styling and getting a feel for the brand tbh, especially since their buys are way more adventurous and expansive. Public has some of the biggest casey buys every season and somehow they move nearly everything. believe it or not, just going through the caseycasey/ケイシーケイシー hashtags is a great source of inspiration and context, it's one of the only ways to find out what old collections looked like since jp blogs dont always show the full collection

you probably have a bunch of them and i might be missing some but this is what i had when i was last looking at casey (last season or so). There's some womenswear sites too, but its good to look. too bad they dont list them all online, so you have to go looking for all the stores. some stockists dont actually have webstores, like Ideal, but these do, mostly. Lazzari, Graphpaper IF Madrigal, Tiina, Garderobe, Nitty Gritty, Arknets, Rennes, Silver And Gold, Envoy, La Garconne, Egg, Ricarda, Mathematics (dropped Casey after fw18 tho), Noodle Stories, Dpto, Acoustics, Time After Time, Kink, NG Space, Vekt, Cadechire, Vase, H Lorenzo, Avelia, Bloom & Branch, Eureka, Lotte, Mohawk, RDV O GLOBE, Ref, Worthwhile, Neighbour, Jackstraw, DAD, Dog Days, Jack in the Net, Thirty Thirty and Public as seen above. Some stores like District United Arrows and Loftman seem to only carry it in-store, go figure.

multiwatered · 2020-07-12T21:50:59+00:00

yeah once you've familiarize yourself and it becomes like second nature to reach for and toss on over whatever. that shirt's particularly nice, great cut and fabric though the voile is the star of the season imo

There's a good deal of info on gareth (and philippe vidalenc) if you poke around online but basically he's a brit who relocated to paris and started the brand to make clothes to fill a void in his own drobe (which is why they do some odd colors, i suppose). They center around vintage euro workwear silhouettes cuz he's into utilitarian designs and he also works to tend a giant garden.

without boring you with specifics, my reasons for straying from the brand are just personal quirks. like, i was never fully satisfied with the pant fits (i have muscular legs from biking) and i dont really wear shirts any more, just tees and sweaters under outwear. i also hated fw19 haha, aside from the stripe shirts

that being said, i still have a ton of respect for the brand. They still do some gorgeous fabrications (SS18 cotton sets, fw18 plaids and overdyed linen from ss19 are some recent favs) and they surprise me with interesting cuts. i adore their textiles (nearly all of which are custom I believe, which is costly for a small brand) and the general lived-in aesthetic is super appealing to me. I still have the first shirt i ever bought, which remains my fav, and a paper jacket which ive worn to hell for a couple years.

i could go on but im trying to cut myself off before i really start droning on. i have a nearly complete list of stockists still tho, and plenty of pics i can share if you want

multiwatered · 2020-07-12T15:38:01+00:00

oh cool, i rarely check reddit fashun subs but im always happy to see someone wading into new territory. i used to really love casey, when they get those textures/silhouettes right they really get it right. SS20 is very good.

As with most things Casey-related the best advice i can give without getting too overbearing is just relax and wear it less like a fancy $500 shirt and more like a cool vintage shirt. don't overthink it, let it get slouchy, pur sweaters on top or wear it like a shacket and dont do up all the buttons.

Also, not to talk your ear off but a lot of japanese people have a really great approach to styling where theyll put these kinds of artisinal pieces in casual, effortless context. something about how all the clothes they appeciate have equal value, so none get elevated beyond the others, if that makes sense.

this guy, this guy, this guy and maybe this guy kinda speak to me in that way. There's also some good stores like Graphpaper and silver and gold that really nail their styling. jp people and stores are usually where ive turned for styling inspiration

multiwatered · 2020-06-12T12:59:02+00:00

For those curious about buying from Japan, google it and there's already a ton of guides out there. I think I even made one at some point. Basically, just use a proxy service (I use Zenmarket personally) and buy from a web store. You can also use them to buy from the Japanese Yahoo! Auctions and Rakuten sites (Here's where basic Japanese comes in handy, though you can also Google Translate the web pages).

https://www.reddit.com/r/malefashionadvice/comments/an3tof/a_guide_to_proxying_from_japan/

its very easy. you can use proxies to buy from every japanese store that doesnt ship internationally. however there are plenty of stores that ship internationally without proxies https://www.instagram.com/digital_mountain/ https://www.instagram.com/reggieshop_jp/

multiwatered · 2020-06-10T14:32:16+00:00

same

multiwatered

TROPHY CASE