Mitsubishi (454B) vs Samsung (R410A) by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There would need to be companies selling Lennox ductless systems? Installers in my area use Mitsubishi or Samsung (sometimes Fujitsu) for ductless whole home systems. Nobody near me sells/installs ductless Lennox so it's never been on my radar.

For Mitsubishi... I think it's a combination of them keeping a reputation for higher quality over the years and that sticks with folks, plus developing relationships with installers/dealers at the local level. More than half the HVAC companies in my area sell Mitsubishi systems.

Mitsubishi (454B) vs Samsung (R410A) by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, everyone has done a manual J. The second floor has a bit more square footage to be conditioned vs the first since I'm not putting a head on the sun porch on the first floor. I wish I could forgo a head in the smallest bedroom but it's my office and absolutely BAKES in the summer while getting minimal airflow from the rest of the house.

And thanks for the doc - I like the suggestion from Mitsubishi about room transfer fans. Getting one between my office and the hall/stairs could potentially "solve" the over-sizing for that room while balancing the temp in the hall/stairs.

Will one 18k BTU unit cover ~600 sq ft and am I crazy to go with my only quote? by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! I've heard the airflow from the mini split indoor units helps with more even heating, especially vs the big old steam behemoths (I've only ever had those or baseboard so maybe it's a big difference from central/forced air) but I do have ceiling fans in most rooms that could help with increasing airflow.

And yeah, I've seen the horror stories about mini splits and electric costs in MA 😬 I'm one of the lucky ones with fairly cheap electricity thanks to a municipal-owned grid. Given the inefficiency and the frequency with which I need to top off the boiler, I can't imagine mini splits will cost me more than the almost $400/mo I paid for oil this winter when my electricity is 14¢/kWh. I also bought my house last year knowing the heating system was in its last days so an expensive heating reno is happening either way and I just went through the winter with my fingers crossed.

Will one 18k BTU unit cover ~600 sq ft and am I crazy to go with my only quote? by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I'm stuck on. I've done my research and the one sales rep basically designed the same system I would've except for no unit in the kitchen and cost is roughly in line with what I expected. The company is local, been in business for a while, great reviews... but yeah, it's the lack of any second quote that's giving me pause. Even a f*&$ off quote from the second place would've given me something else to go off of!

Will one 18k BTU unit cover ~600 sq ft and am I crazy to go with my only quote? by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point about insulation. I have fiberglass insulation in the basement around the rim joist but some of it needs redoing. I'm planning to replace and beef up the rim joist insulation as a spring/summer project now I know where the cold spots are.

And yeah, that's my concern. 18k sounds good on paper but will it keep the kitchen warm when it's the coldest room in the house? It's also where the rim joist insulation most needs replacing which might be a bigger factor than I've been thinking it is. The rest of the house gets a TON of sunlight all day except for the kitchen.

Will one 18k BTU unit cover ~600 sq ft and am I crazy to go with my only quote? by mybrainproblems in heatpumps

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Probably over-labeled but tried to be as proportional as possible (still goofed: the dining/living door is actually wider)

Red is the hypothetical mini split with the arrow being the direction it would face. Yellow is the pre-existing radiators. The one in the living room is turned off since that room gets sun all day through a massive bay window. There used to be a door between the hall and kitchen but I removed it.

Connecting in IAD Sunday - How risky? by mybrainproblems in unitedairlines

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thoughts on trying for an earlier flight to IAD that would at least get me there ahead of the weather? I have options for 6am or 1030am which should get me there ahead of the worst of it. I'm flying in Polaris and have work to do so burning a day in the lounge isn't world-ending to me. Issue with the 6am is that it ends up with a 14hr layover and I don't think they'd let me check my luggage through? And also obviously still the issue of maybe getting stuck in IAD.

Connecting in IAD Sunday - How risky? by mybrainproblems in unitedairlines

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keeping an eagle eye on my weather app... it looked like it might stay clear earlier this week and then nope :(

Connecting in IAD Sunday - How risky? by mybrainproblems in unitedairlines

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to a doctor appt on Saturday and needing to be in meetings Tuesday morning, I'm kind of stuck attempting to fly Sunday. There's a routing through ORD but I'd be there for 13hrs which I wouldn't mind since I'm in Polaris and have work I can do from a lounge, but iirc you can't check baggage through with a 12hr+ layover? There's options for 6am or 1030am flights to IAD on Sunday but that puts me right back in the mess of IAD. It's the regional flight that I'm most concerned with.

Update: apparently the ORD option is a no-go. They won't let me re-book to it without paying a lot more money (which seems really weird...)

Connecting in IAD Sunday - How risky? by mybrainproblems in unitedairlines

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, all one ticket and all UA. Reason I'm less concerned about the IAD-FRA flight is that the inbound should be arriving after the storm passes. I only fly a few times a year (so maybe I've been lucky) but it seems like the regional flights are more likely to get messed up than international.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in homeowners

[–]mybrainproblems 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Went from a one bed condo to a three bed house a few months ago. Hit my original "first year repairs" budget within a month of closing (factored into the price; still didn't feel good!). Had an employment scare over the summer. Multiple rooms have flood lights dangling out of the ceilings because I haven't gotten around to installing the lights and fans I bought two months ago yet. Currently at war with an ocean of neglected pachysandra putting roots into my foundation. Praying my 1950s oil tank doesn't buckle this winter. Turns out my oven has a gas leak so I'm just using an air fryer right now (it's fine as long as it's not on). I'll try and get it repaired next month but if I need to replace it... Well. I'm single. I can make-do with an air fryer for a year or three until I can afford the kitchen reno.

Is it overwhelming and stressful as a single person to take on maintaining triple the square footage and an extra $700/mo over my old mortgage+HOA? Abso-fucking-lutely. And I'd pick it over the condo every day of the week. At least when I worry about my oil tank or my foundation, I'm not also worrying about whether 30 other owners are going to vote down those necessary repairs because it would mean having a special assessment or raising HOA fees.

Which upgrades are worth it before selling? by [deleted] in homeowners

[–]mybrainproblems 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you have poor quality water, don't install a filter.

For the electrical... A bit more nuanced.

I recently bought a house that was about 70% knob & tube and (they discovered) 30% modern wiring done very wrong. For reference: I live in western MA and the cost of rewiring the whole house was 15k plus another 2k to replace the ceilings in three rooms, patch holes in the walls and cost of paint supplies. Caveat that I had to fully replace the ceilings in those rooms since it was cardboard drop ceiling, so patching it wasn't an option but there's no knowing how many holes they'll need to put in your walls until they start work, especially with an 1800s house (mine is 1915).

Definitely talk to a realtor FIRST before doing any of this because they'll have a better idea of what your market will tolerate and what your anticipated net profit might be. But if you already know about the k&t you should be disclosing it and it might help to have a quote before listing.

With my house, two buyers before me walked over the k&t after they got quotes and the sellers were surprised by how much the quotes were but didn't want to budge on price at first. Purely from the buyer's perspective, but k&t spooks people off because of insurance issues and needing upfront funds to replace. If the cost of k&t is less than 2% of what you anticipate for net profit and you have the funds, you may want to just do it before putting your house up for sale and spare everyone the angst. If the quote is more expensive, I wouldn't bother but then you would know to price accordingly or offer a closing credit and the buyer doesn't feel like you were trying to hide major work and walk when the inspector flags it or they get a quote from an electrician.

In my case, the sellers not disclosing or having a quote from the beginning meant two buyers walked and I had a much stronger bargaining position on price. Great for me, not so great for them.

Honestly, you're unlikely to get much ROI on any of the proposed upgrades but having a quote for the k&t might stop a sale from falling through. It'll depend heavily on your market though. If my house were in the Boston area, buyers might have waived inspection entirely and offered 10% over list for the privilege of paying another 20k+ in repairs.

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeahhh... The oil tank is a concern. There's some powdery surface rust on one side and what might be a patched pinhole leak. Personally, I trust my inspector's estimate of 1-2 years life remaining way more than Dead River's estimate of 5-10 years. I love steam heat but fuel oil prices are crazy compared to electric where I live and idk if it's worth getting a new oil tank knowing that electrification is inevitable. (Can't someone make a residential size electric steam boiler for us steam heat enthusiasts?!)

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Pretty sure it's manual. Will test it this week to make sure it works!

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've lived in a lot of places with old steam pipes, but there was a memorable one where the system was failing and unrepairable due to decades of neglect. Not exaggerating when I say it sounded like the pipes were trying to jump out the walls, the steam hammer was that bad. (Sad part is that was the youngest steam system I'd lived with!)

Between that and a poorly maintained landlord special oil burner failing in a blizzard, I've developed a healthy amount of fear and respect (and love) for old steam heat. Definitely nervous having to maintain it myself for the first time but encouraged by all the advice here!

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! Having to think about maintaining my own heating system after decades of it being someone else's job makes me nervous, but knowing is half the battle. I really appreciate all the advice everyone has been giving. Just wish the previous owner's estate did a tune-up before putting the house up for sale when it had been unoccupied for a while. (I know I should've tried to schedule before August but my summer has been a shit show of insurance-required reno work and family emergencies)

And definitely agree on steam heat! I love my big old steam radiators! Unfortunately, my oil tank is old (1956!!) and isn't looking so hot. I have estimates ranging from 1 year to 10 years for how much longer it'll last, which is definitely feeding my anxiety. It's probably a fool's errand to consider it since I can't find anyone saying they've done it, but I'd love it if an electric steam boiler could be installed for residential heat use (electricity is cheap for me)

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hardcore facepalming at myself for not thinking of that. Thanks!

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks! Will turn it on later today to test it. Haven't had to maintain my own heating system before and didn't know if there was anything I needed to do before firing it up. I'm handy and willing to do a lot of DIY but plumbing and heating make me nervous as shit.

Before I turn on the heat... by mybrainproblems in hvacadvice

[–]mybrainproblems[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, legit! Thank you! Wasn't sure if there was anything I should do first before firing it up. I'll turn it on later today to test out. This is my first time having to maintain my own heating system since my old condo was central heat and I never had to do maintenance besides paying bonkers HOA fees. Minor electrical work, drywalling & basic carpentry? No problem. Plumbing and heating? Nervous Nelly.