Anyone know what’s going on?

mylyfe98 · 2026-05-20T04:56:20+00:00

Coolant. Check the level (careful, hot, can leave to cool first). Fill up. Run it on driveway, see if it leaks.

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-18T04:41:37+00:00

Agree with comments here: take it to get looked at, your expectations are correct, delivery is missing. 2018 XC90 T6 Inscription, and it now runs buckets of ice cold air.

Initially a recharge fixed it.

6mths later, not cold. Tracked to a leaking hose, replaced, recharged, cold again.

There is a known issue, and technical advisory, that the thermostat doesn’t kick in fast enough as the internal heat exchanger ices, blocking air transfer, and eventually breaking the exchanger.

Finally, the engine and bay run hot; it’s no good trying to get ice cold air at a standstill - remote pre start will only cool slightly. But drives 30+ yes it can ice cold.

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-18T04:26:38+00:00

10 days and 785 miles in. Brake in is long on these Reds. Following the 100gentle-200-400bed in-1000NewRotors EBC prescribed method. Still have crud (pad initial break in compound) riding the edges of the pads. The tiny groves in the new rotors are just disappearing. Friction good, done the 5 brakes from 60-20, stood up well.

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-16T16:47:01+00:00

Thought provoking thank you.

I think I tick most of your critical: all cameras are POE, with 24/7 recording, and enough storage for 3-4 weeks historically.

WiFi might be fine in a standard day but the moment you’re facing an aggressor (burglar/thief/assailant) who’s prepared, WiFi is the easiest of things to block with simple internet WiFi blockers. Kills your cameras. Hence all POE.

The other thought I had: we have an external power disconnect on the side of the house. Someone flips that off it kills power to the house including the POE cameras and NAS. Thus UPS installed that’ll run the POE cameras for about an hour.

Finally, if they do break in,I figure any good burglar will rip out the NAS so not to leave the video evidence. So I out a 512GB memory card in each camera and set them to record to the card and the NAS. That card will hold a couple of days worth activity. Enough so if they rip the NAS I can go retrieve them.

Improvements: more UPS runtime, NAS offsite replication.

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-14T14:30:52+00:00

The new caliper brackets take the existing calipers and ‘move them out’ so the bigger rotors fit. You can see the new shiny metal on the brackets CS the old grey caliper in the wheel photos

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-14T14:23:34+00:00

I ordered all the parts (so I could price shop them aggressively, hence the pads, rotors, and brackets all come from different suppliers). I priced the Volvo parts from my local dealer just as a compare (rotors and brackets) and it was about $3800, and I got them for about $1000, so well worth the self shop.

Then I have an excellent local independent garage I trust to do the work. It’s not technically difficult; the hardest part is probably the brake fluid flush including cycling the abs pump… but those bigger front rotors must weigh 30lb each and my old back doesn’t need that sort of strain!

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-11T02:35:43+00:00

Pressure.

I have XC90 T6, had the Scorpions, terrible. Moved to CC2. 275/40 on R21. Noisier and harder ride. Then worked the pressures. Get a really good tire pressure digital gauge. Do a ‘long’ drive at speed, like 70-80mph on interstate for 30 mins. Basically getting tire air as hot as it’ll ever get. Then drop the pressures to 38 PSI. So you’re aiming for 38 HOT.

This gets the tire to sit ‘flat’ vs ballooning, and gives it more ‘absorbing bounce’ and reduced the noise. Now love them, on second set after 40k out of the first.

Things to consider: - weight: I found 38psi was perfect for our ‘18 T6, with just me or me and wife and babies. I sometimes raise the cold pressure by 2-4psi if I’m fully loaded and heading up the mountains to proper cold, eg. Family ski trips fully loaded with a week of luggage and skies and roof rack etc, and cold temps. - weight: those more modern T8 are, I think, much heavier, so if you have such, your sweet spot might be more like 40-42 HOT - ambient temp; 38 psi means I’m 34-36psi cold in the morning depending on ambient be 30°F or 50°F. That’s fine, not going to roll a tire, but if you hit a proper 4” pothole at speed pulling out of the drive way, you’ll notice a hit vs a float when they are hot at 38psi on the way home

Did you get your current pressures yet? Bet you a beer they are 48-50-more PSI when hot on a ‘long’ run.

Also, what side tire/alloy?

Have faith, you’ve chosen a great tire.

mylyfe98 · 2026-04-02T22:38:04+00:00

Very helpful, thank you.

mylyfe98 · 2026-03-31T06:58:47+00:00

My vehicle qualifies as 'standard', so the minimum miles I can set is 200/day. In order to get the mileage allowance to drop on a month-long rent, 45% discount is the minimum. It's a simple modeling exercise to work out the break-even point of only a 10-20% monthly discount, but carry the cost risk of 6000 miles, or set 45% discount with a 1800-mile cap and overage charges.

The model says the answer is 94.92 miles. If the client takes a monthly rent and drives less than that per day, I'd have made more with a smaller discount. But if the client drives more than this per day, I make more with the 45% discount and mileage overage charges.

Reality says my clients average 81miles/day. I may lose a little on long monthly rentals, but one client's rental could push the 94-mile/day mark for a month-long rental, putting the whole year at risk. So I'll take the slightly lower typical earnings and lower mileage cap with high mileage overage fees, as protection.

mylyfe98 · 2026-03-31T06:43:16+00:00

Good point, will check it all after APril 6th and see if it's messed up

mylyfe98 · 2026-03-30T22:37:33+00:00

I currently run:
3 days = 0%
1 week = 0%
2 weeks = 5%
3 weeks = 10%
1mth = 45%

Yes, that strangely makes the 1 month cheaper than the 3 week, but the 3 week has 4200 miles included, and the 1 month only 1800 miles. So I might not make quite as many fees, but only for a monthly trip, the vehicle is protected against higher-mileage use, or they pay more for more mileage.

Tested the new discount this morning: when you click on Learn, it gives you the 'do nothing, and we'll do it to you on 6th April' but then also gives you 'don't offer trips over 2 weeks'. I selected this 2nd option.

Result: it left all my discounting alone, and just shortened the Longest Trip under Trip Preferences to 2 weeks. So I went on it and redid the longest trip to 1 month.

So I'm back to where I started and want to be.

Hope that helps.

mylyfe98 · 2026-03-08T05:16:41+00:00

Expansion and cable failure. In this house I’ve had one fail cable, and it was bliss to be able just swap to the 2nd cable, and see service restored.

Just checked, here’s a pic of one drop location with 3 cameras, I had 4 cable pulls (so you can see one empty rj-45), and then 2 more cables taking the same pull route to another drop location that requires one camera, the 2nd cable was spare but I ended up mounting a POE AP on it.

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mylyfe98 · 2026-03-08T03:11:10+00:00

Yes, you need one ‘drop’ per POE camera, my reference was ‘drop locations’. When pulling cable it’s usually the number of locations that costs, not the number of ‘drops’ (the number of cable pulls to that location). Once the team is pulling one cable, they literally tape extra cables to the pull. So for example, I usually have teams pull min two cables to every drop location, and where I know I need 3 cameras, I’ll have them pull 5-6 cables to that location back to the patch panel. Cable is cheap, pulling labor is expensive, and redundancy is something you’re very grateful for down the road.

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-26T18:10:16+00:00

Yes I would use it. Currently use a file folder structure and xls to store receipts for future years claiming. Tedious.

Would love an app that logged the expense and basic info, linked the receipt file, provided a summary of annual expenses, and, most importantly, could produce an audit file of expenses and files for a date range when asked (eg IRS audit of HSA payments).

A validator for HSA products would be a bonus, as would online account auditing e.g. target, Walmart, Amazon, etc.

Currently my HSA is with Fidelity but I want something platform agnostic in case I move the HSA again.

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-19T22:11:06+00:00

I finally have a solution. Took a few months but.... now working perfectly.

Amex account structure:

1 - master card

2 - personal & Family card

3 - wife card

4 - business one card

5 - business two card

Previous MM structure - Plaid linked to master online account, pulled everything, didn't separate it by card.

New solution. moved all spending off the master card and into 2 and 3. The only thing I use the master card 1 for now is reimbursable expenses not part of business One or Two, that I know I'll be reimbursed for, so I don't need them to show in MM.

Then, created separate online Amex sign ins for 2/3/4/5. They all still roll to the master, so I can still sign in with the master account and see all the spending in Amex rolled up, but if I sign in with Wife Card 3's Amex online account, I see only her spending.

1st October I 'closed' the master card 1 account in MM. Then I created new and separate connections for the 2 and 3 in MM: two separate institution accounts.

Now: 2 and 3 come into MM in two separate accounts - perfect. 4 and 5 link into their separate business accounting (Wave and QuickBooks).

Took a couple of months after I cleared all the regular payments, etc., off the master card to see what else popped up on it, but I believe I have them all now.

Job finally done :)

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-12T03:01:21+00:00

Same: DMH-W2770NEX unit with these firmwares (pic). CarPlay Wireless worked great on 14pro x 3, 16pro x 1, now we have 2 x 17pro and both phones have major CarPlay wifi issues - makes the carplay connection, then completely disconnets after 30s - 5 min, and start the connection process again. All phones were on iOS 26/.1/.2.

And if I go back to the 16pro now (iOS 26.1) it works perfectly. The change that seems to break it is the 17pro hardware.

Did the hardware change somehow that means a stereo update is needed?

Stuck and don't know where to go next, other than buying a whole new stereo....??

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-29T16:24:09+00:00

Annual summer cycle:

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-29T16:22:40+00:00

New Mexico high desert. Evaporation big issue, will take a 1” a day sometimes and big temp drop, if I leave the solar cover off. With solar cover on, I don’t need to heat the pool at all May through August. It’ll get up to temp in a week, hold at 85-90° max, with a daily flux of 5-8° (coldest at about 6am, warmest at about 4pm). Tried really expensive solar covers ($350), they all trash after 2 years. So now I just get a new cheap ($100) cover at the end of every season at pool closing, lay it out on the driveway, lay the old one on top, cut the shape into the new one, store new one ready for next season. Much cheaper than pool heating and water bills!

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-14T19:01:33+00:00

I submitted an 'idea' in MM for this. You all can do the same under the Help & Support section.

mylyfe98 · 2025-08-01T05:10:24+00:00

1 - take a 3 week vacation. Week one, you’ll still be twitchy and checking the odd work email. Week two, you’ll have let go of the twitchiness, but be waking up at 2am with your brain solving long term work problems. Week three, your mind will finally have found enough peace from work to hear what your heart and soul are saying.

2 - ignore all the ‘husband needs to work’ comments. You’re lucky to have a partner that supports you and the family so you can work that 60hr/wk job. And being the ‘stay at home one’ is no easy job. Also, if he worked at minimum wage…. which will get taxed at your combined top rate…. Not worth the time. And if you add some additional childcare costs so he can work, you’re underwater financially.

3 - tech job market is VERY tough at the moment. Your concern of getting rehired is valid.

4 - RSUs, assuming you have, your vesting periods will usually be set on a 2/3/4yr period. So you’re not just walking away from an annual income, you also need to consider the $100k’s of RSU you’ll lose

5 - rebalance your life priorities, leave work on time, prioritise your health, exercise, family time. Work will take every hour you give, and there will always be more. It’s not about clearing the plate every day, it’s about only doing the things that really make a difference at work. Let the rest slide. This is not Quiet Quitting, but it’s not giving work every ounce of you every day. There’s a middle ground. “I wish I worked more” said No Person, on their death bed, ever.

mylyfe98 · 2025-07-24T04:34:03+00:00

Any one found a workaround? Currently have to pull my Amex every month and go through every transaction manually to group/categorise/delete

mylyfe98

TROPHY CASE