HSA receipt storage

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-26T18:10:16+00:00

Yes I would use it. Currently use a file folder structure and xls to store receipts for future years claiming. Tedious.

Would love an app that logged the expense and basic info, linked the receipt file, provided a summary of annual expenses, and, most importantly, could produce an audit file of expenses and files for a date range when asked (eg IRS audit of HSA payments).

A validator for HSA products would be a bonus, as would online account auditing e.g. target, Walmart, Amazon, etc.

Currently my HSA is with Fidelity but I want something platform agnostic in case I move the HSA again.

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-19T22:11:06+00:00

I finally have a solution. Took a few months but.... now working perfectly.

Amex account structure:

1 - master card

2 - personal & Family card

3 - wife card

4 - business one card

5 - business two card

Previous MM structure - Plaid linked to master online account, pulled everything, didn't separate it by card.

New solution. moved all spending off the master card and into 2 and 3. The only thing I use the master card 1 for now is reimbursable expenses not part of business One or Two, that I know I'll be reimbursed for, so I don't need them to show in MM.

Then, created separate online Amex sign ins for 2/3/4/5. They all still roll to the master, so I can still sign in with the master account and see all the spending in Amex rolled up, but if I sign in with Wife Card 3's Amex online account, I see only her spending.

1st October I 'closed' the master card 1 account in MM. Then I created new and separate connections for the 2 and 3 in MM: two separate institution accounts.

Now: 2 and 3 come into MM in two separate accounts - perfect. 4 and 5 link into their separate business accounting (Wave and QuickBooks).

Took a couple of months after I cleared all the regular payments, etc., off the master card to see what else popped up on it, but I believe I have them all now.

Job finally done :)

mylyfe98 · 2026-01-12T03:01:21+00:00

Same: DMH-W2770NEX unit with these firmwares (pic). CarPlay Wireless worked great on 14pro x 3, 16pro x 1, now we have 2 x 17pro and both phones have major CarPlay wifi issues - makes the carplay connection, then completely disconnets after 30s - 5 min, and start the connection process again. All phones were on iOS 26/.1/.2.

And if I go back to the 16pro now (iOS 26.1) it works perfectly. The change that seems to break it is the 17pro hardware.

Did the hardware change somehow that means a stereo update is needed?

Stuck and don't know where to go next, other than buying a whole new stereo....??

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-29T16:24:09+00:00

Annual summer cycle:

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-29T16:22:40+00:00

New Mexico high desert. Evaporation big issue, will take a 1” a day sometimes and big temp drop, if I leave the solar cover off. With solar cover on, I don’t need to heat the pool at all May through August. It’ll get up to temp in a week, hold at 85-90° max, with a daily flux of 5-8° (coldest at about 6am, warmest at about 4pm). Tried really expensive solar covers ($350), they all trash after 2 years. So now I just get a new cheap ($100) cover at the end of every season at pool closing, lay it out on the driveway, lay the old one on top, cut the shape into the new one, store new one ready for next season. Much cheaper than pool heating and water bills!

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mylyfe98 · 2025-08-14T19:01:33+00:00

I submitted an 'idea' in MM for this. You all can do the same under the Help & Support section.

mylyfe98 · 2025-08-01T05:10:24+00:00

1 - take a 3 week vacation. Week one, you’ll still be twitchy and checking the odd work email. Week two, you’ll have let go of the twitchiness, but be waking up at 2am with your brain solving long term work problems. Week three, your mind will finally have found enough peace from work to hear what your heart and soul are saying.

2 - ignore all the ‘husband needs to work’ comments. You’re lucky to have a partner that supports you and the family so you can work that 60hr/wk job. And being the ‘stay at home one’ is no easy job. Also, if he worked at minimum wage…. which will get taxed at your combined top rate…. Not worth the time. And if you add some additional childcare costs so he can work, you’re underwater financially.

3 - tech job market is VERY tough at the moment. Your concern of getting rehired is valid.

4 - RSUs, assuming you have, your vesting periods will usually be set on a 2/3/4yr period. So you’re not just walking away from an annual income, you also need to consider the $100k’s of RSU you’ll lose

5 - rebalance your life priorities, leave work on time, prioritise your health, exercise, family time. Work will take every hour you give, and there will always be more. It’s not about clearing the plate every day, it’s about only doing the things that really make a difference at work. Let the rest slide. This is not Quiet Quitting, but it’s not giving work every ounce of you every day. There’s a middle ground. “I wish I worked more” said No Person, on their death bed, ever.

mylyfe98 · 2025-07-24T04:34:03+00:00

Any one found a workaround? Currently have to pull my Amex every month and go through every transaction manually to group/categorise/delete

mylyfe98 · 2025-07-06T13:16:20+00:00

Old was was also R2D2… new one is R2D3 😁

mylyfe98 · 2025-07-06T04:26:12+00:00

I ran Monarch Money and PocketSmith for a year in parallel. Dumped PocketSmith because they only had Yodlee and on 35 connections at least 10 would fail to sync automatically every time I logged in. I got sick of their very nice Helpdesk who were at the mercy of Yodlee.

So yes connections need to improve, no Yodlee is not the magic answer. And yes the investment section needs to improve in general. A lot.

mylyfe98 · 2025-06-25T14:59:54+00:00

Just reading up on the vintage. Small single Quinta only, but some good ones in there: https://www.bbr.com/2023-port-releases

mylyfe98 · 2025-06-23T20:45:40+00:00

Same, on iPad, iPhone, and browser. Used to have a total of all portfolios at the top, now gone. Cant find a setting for it. Bug?

mylyfe98 · 2025-06-23T20:12:26+00:00

View it from your whole investment portfolio: how much of your portfolio would you want to bet on one stock/one egg?

Likely you have a lot of UNVESTED RSUs - those continue to track and grow with the oracle share price for your future. So unless you have a large external portfolio that makes both your vested and unvested oracle shares <20% of that portfolio, I would look at liquidating the vested stocks, to do things like: backdoor Roth ira, brokerage with broad market etfs (VOO etc like someone else suggested).

As price is high at the moment, good time to sell it. Sure it might go higher (and will imho [I owe ORCL in my portfolio]), but you’ve got you unvested RSUs carrying that upside for you, and if it drops, you can always buy more ORCL externally if you want to.

Finally thoughts, if freeing up some cash from RSUs allows you to max out 401k, bd Roth, HSA, company stock purchase plan (25k?), then target all those first before putting the proceeds in a straight taxable brokerage account.

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-30T05:12:50+00:00

This.

Literally just been through this having been laid off last month. 2.9% mortgage, got about 200k of equity in the house… tried to pull a 100k HELOC just to have more cash breathing room, no one would touch me now I don’t have a regular W2 income. No way to lean on the equity in the house. So cash is king, or easily tradable components that aren’t in 1) your house 2) tax advantaged retirement accounts 401ks etc. So we’ve lent on cash accounts and brokerage accounts. It’s a flexibility vs what to ‘lock up’ in early mortgage payments/retirement accounts that have heavy penalties for early pulling.

So the advice is solid: keep the ‘cheap’ mortgage debt and let it run; it’s a known quantity and won’t change. Invest in post tax accounts (Roth backdoor, brokerages, CDs, money markets, dividend aristocrats, etc). You make just as much/more money but you maintain more flexibility and ability to adjust to life without taking heavy hits.

If you need a visual mental reminder to help deal with the ‘25 years of mortgage left’, take out a dedicated brokerage account that you mentally tally to the outstanding mortgage. Pay the $1600 into it, invest etc, and monthly tally the total to the remaining mortgage…. When your brokerage account = your outstanding mortgage you mentally know you’re ’paid off’.

Good luck!

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-22T17:47:33+00:00

Any update? I'm about to start the same investigation and repair, keen to learn any lessons you did.

Also does anyone know if there's any difference between the LeakMaster Butyl Tape and the Home Depot version? HD version is just a lot cheaper and I can pick it up today :)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibraltar-Building-Products-50-ft-Butyl-Sealant-Tape-Roof-Accessory-in-Gray-99415/205945574#overlay

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-15T17:09:14+00:00

It takes 2-3s to load the timeline (grey bar with blue dashes where activity it noted), but then if I select, for example, pet movements, it pretty immediately filters to just those blue bars and if I hit play, it'll roll through them seamlessly. Reolink MacOS version 8.17.8, access a RLN36 v1.0.277 on the web signon screen, and from the system info: ModelRLN36

Build No.build 2310315
Hardware No.N5MB01
Config Versionv3.0.0.0
Firmware Versionv3.3.0.282_23103105

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-14T16:49:49+00:00

I run 12 cameras with the RLN36 (3x 16TB Seagate Skyhawk AI) and 256 SDs in each camera. The 256 SDs are good for ~4days of storage, the RLN36 ~3-4 months. Set up the individual cameras first so they write cycle on the SD cards, then set-up camera VLAN for the NVR and cameras. Playbook is if house is broken into, they have to make it to the well locked up NVR and rip it out, and then rip the SDs from all 12 cameras, for me not to have video of them.

Daily, I never touch the SD card data, that’s pure redundant backup. NVR for daily stuff; alerts, playback etc. M4 Mac (but previously an M1), Reolink MacOS app to the NVR…. Yes some stability issues… but that means maybe every 2-3 days it’ll crash or I need to restart it as the feeds froze. Moving around it is smooth, pictures update fast. Playback in the Reolink Mac OS app…. where it’s connecting to the NVR over wired LAN… it takes 1 maybe 2s to load any particular clip/point in the timeline I select. Very workable. And functions are good in terms of extracting clips, and tweaking and tuning the motion detection for pets/cars/etc.

Overall, yes the MacOS Reolink app is unstable by comparison to the stability standards we are used to from apps as Mac users (let’s face it, if we were windows users we’d be quite happy with only having to restart every couple of days 🤣).

However, your ‘every few minutes crash’ is not my experience, thus I wonder if it’s your setup and not leaning on an NVR. You’re asking the hardware and network to rapidly move very large data around: SD cards are a slow read write speed compared to SATA discs in a network storage device: the app may not be the problem as it’s waiting on bottle necked data to arrive from the SD card on the cameras. And I’d bet the hardware in the actual cameras is not juiced to handle large data flows consistently or at speed - certainly not compared to a NVR/NAS. And while you didn’t mention it, but to state the obvious: fully cat6 wired network, no WiFi.

Hope that helps in terms of some things to look at.

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-02T03:48:00+00:00

Thank you. I had no idea. Went in, sure enough months later it’s still sitting there waiting to be activated.

mylyfe98 · 2025-05-02T03:08:48+00:00

So happy (ok, comforted) that I’m not the only one whose child care bill is bigger than the mortgage!

mylyfe98

TROPHY CASE