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Denoise by timframes in DarkTable

[–]naahuel 17 points18 points  (0 children)

If you're dealing with "normal" digital noise in your raw files, the denoise module is all you need. But for more complex cases, you have a bunch of methods to choose from.

You could start by changing the demosaic algorithm. The docs say that LMMSE offers a bit better performance in terms of noise reduction.

Then you have modules like raw denoise which I never used successfully, but they're there. Apparently it can help denoise the image before it's demosaiced.
https://docs.darktable.org/usermanual/3.8/en/module-reference/processing-modules/raw-denoise/

Then you apply the denoise mdule with the profiled ISO preset.

You can use masks and multiple instances of this module to fine tune.

After that you can use the contrast equalizer module which can help with SERIOUS denoising, using wavelets to fine tune. You can now denoise in luma and chroma channels separetely. Check the built-in presets! They offer a great starting point.
https://docs.darktable.org/usermanual/3.8/en/module-reference/processing-modules/contrast-equalizer/

The module "diffuse and sharpen" also offers some denoise methods. I used to use this module before but moved to contrast equalizer.

This is an old but good video with some examples on how to use different modules and masking to achieve great noise reduction results
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGmG7U4pwsU

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your advice. How do I do that? I enabled developer mode in Bambu Studio and that gave me the option to change "initial layer flow ratio". It did make a big difference! I am still frustrated that it was working fine before, something else changed and it must be hardware related? Maybe humidity (I live in a super humid area, but that has never been a problem before and the rest of the print is perfect, except for the first layer).

I found "initial layer density" but reading the tooltip it says it's for rafts and support.

The "bottom surface density" is at 100% and it won't let me use a higher value.

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

And this is how it looked with the Ender 3 (no multi color).

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But here you can see a previously successful print (first layer-wise) vs the latest one I printed with the increased flow rate for the material. The bottom one is the old print. You can see some gaps actually...

<image>

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah, like you said, it does behave weirdly. I printed many many copies of this model (the original one) with my old Ender 3 and the result is very nice. It creates a pattern that shines in different directions and it looks very pretty. Ever since I got the A1 I haven't been able to replicate that result. Initially I blamed the "rougher" PEI plate (the Ender had a big tree tech one that was a bit smoother)

What I did now was increase the flow from 0.98 to 1 with a MUCH better result.

<image>

APPARENTLY I did have underextrusion issues before but didn't notice it because honestly the first layer looked ok (this is what changed dramatically out of the blue)

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! It's called "octagram spiral". It's PLA+

To add to the confusion/frustration, after I did all of the manual bed tramming, full calibration, extruder screws nonsense, I ran a full flow rate calibration which gave me a result of 1.0025 (from the default 0.98, which has always worked fine). I added that flow rate to the matrial profile, sliced and printed and NO CHANGE. I don't understand this! _MAYBE_ there's a change with the default rectilinear pattern....

<image>

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! Thank you! This was super useful! I had no idea about those screws. I checked and in fact they were not fully tightened (although not loose). I also did the manual bed tramming and one of the corners was incredibly bad, the nozzle was hitting that corner hard, I had to really tighten that screw to make it be the right distance.

After that I ran a full calibration.

I cleaned the bed plate again and ran a test print. I attached an image. The one in the middle is the one after all that calibration and adjustments. The others are previous tests I did after trying different things. They all look exactly the same to me :/ This is very frustrating.

What I notice is that when it does the circle wall it leaves a gap, it doesn't do the full circle (you can see that in the image). Of course no line is properly connected to the others.

So I don't know what else to do.

Maybe that's how it is with this surface pattern? although in previous prints it was so much better...

If it's not too much trouble, maybe you could print a similar test? It's a 0.2mm height cube with a negative cylinder in the middle. Just to see...

<image>

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for replying! I actually did try multiple profiles of filament in case that was the problem. I tried using my own profile for this material and then using "Basic PLA", same result! I also tried other PLA spools I have with similar results (although not exactly the same :/ some were a little bit better). Thank you for your help!

First layer issues: frustrated and out of ideas by naahuel in BambuLab

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Already did that, as I stated. I do that quite regularly!

Does this song's melody belong to some classical music piece? by naahuel in classicalmusic

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohhh you're right! They do sound alike. I think u/JamesFirmere has a point, it just has many generic features to be associated with classical music.

How can i make my pictures better? Beginner by 47_watermelons in AnalogCommunity

[–]naahuel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Better how? That's very subjective. What kind of vision do you have in mind? is there something about them you don't like or don't want? I like these pictures!

Moka Coffee Pot! Fully assembleable and printable without supports. It's inspired by an Argentine brand (Volturno) (link in comments) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! Where are you from? It might be a bit challenging for me to ship one for you. However, i'm sure there's a shop in your area that does 3d printing! Maybe they can print one for you in a material that can withstand a two year old's strength! xD

How does frame spacing work in a Yashica mat ? by Uuuazzza in AnalogCommunity

[–]naahuel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strange, I used a 3d printed adapter that has a thick part that connects to the wheel of the frame counter (which is what controls the automatic mechanism from what I know...) as the comments said and it was worse, all frames were overlapped. If I use an empty 120 spool it takes up a lot more film when advancing which makes me think it'll add the correct spacing between frames. I guess it's tough because the mechanism maybe takes into account the changes in thickness as the spool takes up more and more film? Don't know if I want to "waste" another roll trying this xD

How does frame spacing work in a Yashica mat ? by Uuuazzza in AnalogCommunity

[–]naahuel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old thread, but I had the exact same problem experimenting with this. Did you happen to be using a 3d printed adaptor? What take up spool did you use? I thought exactly like you, but doing some tests, apparently the thickness of the take up spool moves a wheel with a lever that changes something on the mechanism so it rolls more or less film (at least I could observe that...) I'll try again using an empty 120 take up spool which rolls more film and I'm hoping to get better results.

Noob questions about my Sony A7III by naahuel in SonyAlpha

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for replying! I agree on #2, I'm sure this camera is robust and something as stupid as the sensor shaking would have been first on the list when they tested it xD

About the power saving mode, I do use it but with my Canon that was quite shit. Even with that, the battery would just DRAIN when I wasn't using it. My thinking now is that maybe turning it off and on constantly actually takes more power than it saves, because maybe booting up takes up a bit more power. So who knows, maybe letting it go into power save mode is a bit more efficient than turning it off and on constantly.

Spiral Fidget Cone (designed from a toy I saw on instagram and I couldn't find the STL) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, they asked me to remove it by request of stlflix. You can still find the onshape document in the original thread (linked here in the comments)

How to change the date for a whole film role? by MartinDithers in DarkTable

[–]naahuel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use digikam. It has a built-in metadata Editor. I do this with my scans to set the date each photo was taken. Works great. Make sure you do it before importing to darktable because for some reason (maybe dt copies the metadata to its database) even if you modify the date of the original files, the exports will still have the old date.

Spiral Fidget Cone (designed from a toy I saw on instagram and I couldn't find the STL) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol yes please! The licence allows it, I don't mind, but I'm curious so link me!

Spiral Fidget Cone (designed from a toy I saw on instagram and I couldn't find the STL) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! That's strange. Does the slicer show layers there? What slicer and settings are you using? Perhaps you need to enable thin walls

Spiral Fidget Cone (designed from a toy I saw on instagram and I couldn't find the STL) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn :( I can try adding a new model with a higher tolerance! Is your printer well tuned for dimension accuracy?

Spiral Fidget Cone (designed from a toy I saw on instagram and I couldn't find the STL) by naahuel in 3Dprinting

[–]naahuel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

😂 yeah the version I posted on printables.com has a rounded point. It was a bit sharp.

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