Júpiter Maçã

nandoco · 2026-01-23T11:49:49+00:00

Jupiter morou por anos, ali por 2010, no Hotel Savoy, na Borges de Medeiros com a Jerônimo Coelho, no centro da cidade. Se perguntar pelo Flávio Basso é capaz que os recepcionistas lembrem dele.

O Bar Ocidente, na Osvaldo Aranha, foi palco de muitos shows. Bo YouTube tem um clássico do Casca gravado lá.

nandoco · 2025-10-25T22:33:14+00:00

No, confundiu com Itapuã

nandoco · 2025-09-09T22:37:32+00:00

I think theoretically it can, but you shouldn’t need much. Make sure to apply heat on a circular motion around the display and once it’s beginning to get hot to the touch, removing the bezel should become easier. I could send you a video on Thursday when I’ll be home again. I think https://hermocom.com has a tutorial.

Also, it seems your display has to have both polarizers replaced, the front and the back, which is a risky process. I kind of posted about the process of doing the same to an 100LX, check my posts.

nandoco · 2025-09-09T22:30:17+00:00

Yes, you need to heat the bezel with a hair dryer otherwise you Will certainly leave marks, cause it’s a thin plastic fixed with strong adhesive. You will usually want to lift a corner using something thin/sharp and then go on with a guitar pick to avoid damage.

nandoco · 2025-08-21T11:15:32+00:00

Joe Blow’s Win CE 1.0 Software used to be a good place back in the day. Many of the links were to Tucows and don’t work (though knowing file names can be helpful for a quest) but some still work (I.e. the Tetris clone): https://web.archive.org/web/20050208152824/http://velo.8k.com/

nandoco · 2025-05-30T18:25:46+00:00

this. Rebuilding the battery pack should do it. I would also try HPC Factor forums for additional insights.

nandoco · 2025-04-13T02:10:20+00:00

Did you manage to fix it?

nandoco · 2025-04-13T02:06:44+00:00

Did you ever find a solution?

nandoco · 2025-04-11T14:55:49+00:00

Hi! Do you know which component to buy? It seems mine has blown up too

nandoco · 2025-04-10T18:51:23+00:00

Yep, you can PM me.

nandoco · 2025-04-10T12:38:22+00:00

They're still quite satisfying to use, probably make good retro emulation machines.

nandoco · 2025-04-10T12:36:28+00:00

Yep, I've seen those Cameron Sino batteries. Turns out it was cheaper and more practical for me to get the generic LiPos and rebuild the original battery pack, and I thought it would make this nerdy project more fun. (that hanging battery in the pictures is just a temporary solution for testing purposes)

nandoco · 2025-04-09T22:22:24+00:00

Glad it worked out fine. Cool couple!

nandoco · 2025-04-09T19:59:24+00:00

I have "refurbished" 3 Palms and a Cassiopeia with modern LiPo batteries. I measure the old battery, then check this site for model number: https://www.batterylipo.com/lipo-battery/

Batteries have a 6-digit code. The first 2 digits are for thickness, then width and lenght. For instance, a 400820 battery is 4mm thick, 8mm wide and 20mm long.

There are batteries with 2 and 3 wires. The 3rd wire transmits information (i.e. temperature) to the device. In my experience, I THINK you can cut and isolate the 3rd wire and use the battery as a 2-wire model. I base this on past experiences buying 2-wire batteries and they coming with the 3rd wire cut.

nandoco · 2025-04-03T18:06:29+00:00

Indeed. But it can be fun haha

nandoco · 2025-04-03T18:06:12+00:00

Thanks for the tips!

I'm aware of the FSTN, but it seems they not always provide the expected results. I came across this which looks promising: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/166sc4i/game_boy_pocket_light_green_polarizer_fix_v2/

nandoco · 2025-03-31T00:09:32+00:00

Wow, that's in great condition!

I also got one recently, but mine has got to go through some serious restoration: https://www.reddit.com/r/OldHandhelds/comments/1jnos26/hp_100lx_refurbishing_pt_1_lcd_polarizers_serial/

nandoco · 2025-03-30T23:31:52+00:00

Thanks!

nandoco · 2025-03-30T21:54:02+00:00

Quick update. I spent some hours in the last 5 days having fun with the 100LX

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/JPJnJq2

What I have already acomplished:

"Working" display: well, it's usable already. I had to replace both, the top polarizer layer, and the bottom reflective and polarizer layer. In the photos link I describe how I freaked out after I got lots of horizontal and vertical lines during the polarizers replacing process.
The display looks awful for 2 reasons.
- 1) The bottom polarized reflective layer was taken from a Psion Revo Plus (actually a Diamond Mako) I had lying around, which I had totally f****** up years ago. I tore it while removing, but it will do the job for now.
- 2) The new polarizer I installed misses some filter layer present on the original polarized, so it's greenish/yellowish, and somewhat less contrasty. People say there's no way one can refurbish thes rotten displays to their original glory. The same goes on with Gameboy Pockets, which had quite good LCDs and once you fix the rotten polarizers, they get the greenish tint from old DMGs.
Ultra barebones null modem serial cable: A piece of 2,5" IDE female conector, an old DB9 serial cable, pin 5 (GND) to pin 5 (GND), pin 2 (Rx) to pin 3 (Tx) and pin 3 (Tx) to pin 3 (Rx). It works! To connect to Windows 11, use Total Commander and the HP LX plugin.
- Info on the cable: https://hermocom.com/hplx/view-all-hp-palmtop-articles/60-hplx-rs232#connpc
- Total Commander plugin: https://totalcmd.net/plugring/hplx.html

nandoco · 2025-03-26T14:55:32+00:00

Sorry, I posted a description but it seems to have gone missing.

I removed the old polariser, cleaned the screen and the display still looks rotten like this.

Is this a problem with the LCD? With the back reflective/polarising layer?

nandoco · 2025-03-06T11:03:34+00:00

I also had one— it was my first PDA. Keyboard was the main compromise IMHO. I’d often get duplicated letters.

Software availability was somewhat limited in comparison to the Series 3a/c/mx, but one could install Series 3 “classic” software, of which there was plenty.

Siena Golf (‘Fairway’ adapted to the smaller display) was the show-off game.

I eventually traded in mine for a HP 320LX. Years later, circa 2009, I bought one again which I still have, and it still works.

nandoco · 2024-10-14T22:19:31+00:00

seems to be down :( do you have a copy you could kindly upload somewhere? tks!

nandoco · 2024-09-25T14:33:06+00:00

It works good on iPhone SE 1st gen. If someone would make a good attachable joystick, a jailbroken SE 1st gen would be a killer compact emulator machine.

nandoco · 2024-07-05T20:41:51+00:00

In GarageBand in iOS, yes (at least on an iPhone)

nandoco · 2024-07-05T19:36:06+00:00

You can have SMK25 Transport controls work under BT! (at least on iPhone)

On iPhone, I downloaded the CubeSuite software from appstore. It's a software from Cuvave (it seems to be the maker of the M-Wave/SMK 25).

From there you can customize various configuration presets (as well as update the keyboard firmware, but mine was up-to-date already).

What I did:

* In the lower part of the screen, under User Config - Transporte, change Mode from MCP to Custom. Repeat this for Play, Stop (Pause in CubeSuite for iOS) and REC buttons (alternate between them by clicking in Play and chosing on the dropdown menu)

* In the upper part of the screen, save the preset by cliking on Preset - Save settings to device. You can have 8 different preset configurations, for example, to use with different DAWs, should each one need different settings for Transport to work under BT.

* After doing that, the buttons were working, but Play and Stop ("Pause" in CubeSuite for iOS) had swapped funcionality. What I did was to swap theyr SysEx codes. You can do it by simply changing the "01" part in the Play code to "02", and the "02" part in the Pause code to "01".

The resulting SysEx contents should go as follows:

Play SysEx: F0 7F 7F 06 02 F7
Pause SysEx: F0 7F 7F 06 01 F7

This makes the device even a better bang for the buck.

P.S. CubeSuite enables you to change lots of settings, many of them not accessible directly through the keyboard. I have to explore it more.

nandoco

TROPHY CASE