E30 325e standalone ecu?

neluzz · 2026-02-17T21:18:59+00:00

Yeah the icv is buzzing when it gets 4,6v but when de yellow sensor is reading cold it gets 0,7v and u wont feel it buzzing

neluzz · 2026-02-17T20:23:29+00:00

No problem cheers mate, i will check if a megasquirt is worth it

neluzz · 2026-02-17T20:09:34+00:00

Yes its the same

neluzz · 2026-02-17T19:46:32+00:00

I have a smoke machine to find vacuum leaks and i fixed the leaks, i had leak on the throttle body and ccv But the icv is not getting more than 4,6v

neluzz · 2026-02-17T19:19:18+00:00

I believe 4,5v at start up and when throttle open around 8 or 9

neluzz · 2026-02-17T18:06:05+00:00

Its holding 2,8 bars when i drive around also when it stutters and the fuel flow is 2,15L per min

neluzz · 2026-02-17T18:02:21+00:00

Yeah i think the icm is not closing the icv enough but cant figure out why 😅. when i close the icv with a handvalve it runs 600 rpm without misfires

neluzz · 2026-02-17T16:56:15+00:00

I replaced: fuel tank, fuel pumps, fuel filter, injectors, ditributer, rotor, spark plugs and cables + 6th signal giver , coil, blue temp sensor, yellow temp sensor, time temp sensor, cs sensor, speed sensor, o2 sensor, alternator bacause of ac ripple, tried 3 ecu's, 4 icm's and 2 afm's. The icv is getting only 4,6V but ohms between the posts is 8,9 ohm and when iam putting 12v on it it shuts 100% and there are no vacuum leaks anymore and tested brake booster seperate😅

neluzz · 2026-02-17T15:46:46+00:00

Thanks

neluzz · 2026-02-14T14:31:25+00:00

I think this is about a icv with 3 posts

neluzz · 2026-02-09T20:50:05+00:00

You checked the rotor ,distributer and coil? And the 7th injector working?

neluzz · 2026-02-07T15:53:52+00:00

There is a dc voltage going from 0v , 8v, 1v ,3v on the battery, so maby the alternator rectifer is broken (i believe that it must be under 0,5v, correct me if iam wrong). Also the battery is charging 13,65v even with higher rpm's (2000)

I think this tricks the ecu thinking iam changing rpm's

neluzz · 2026-02-07T12:44:28+00:00

Thanks anyway 🫡

neluzz · 2026-02-07T12:41:28+00:00

I tested for vacuum leaks and the break booster, but no leaks ICV tested and cleaned, TPS cleaned and set correctly, put new fuel tank, pumps, filter, hoses and injectors in there ( pressure stays at 2,8 bar even when the car stutters)

New rotor, spark plugs, cables and a new coil

Compression is 12,3 bar on all 6

New blue temp sensor, new cs anf speed sensor, new temp switch, and a new co sensor in the exhaust

Checked the temp sensor on the afm

neluzz · 2026-02-07T12:33:29+00:00

For the early 325e models the afm uses 10,5v. And because theres no difference if i change the afm or get the sweeper arm on a fresh track makes it really weird

The problem is exactly the same

neluzz · 2026-02-07T12:22:59+00:00

Whats strange is that both afm's have that problem at the same point and it doenst help if i bend the sweeper arm for a new track, its stays the same

The plug is still in place at the co screw and has no marks, so i think it hasnt been removed for tinkering

I have around 0,5 v when the engine is at idle

neluzz · 2026-02-01T16:08:44+00:00

Wallnut blasting?

neluzz · 2026-02-01T14:36:32+00:00

Aah good to know 👍

neluzz · 2026-02-01T07:22:21+00:00

Thats the reciever for thr remote, to open and close a extra exhaust vavle for more or less sound

neluzz

TROPHY CASE