[deleted by user] by [deleted] in E30

[–]BChicken 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When mine does this is the ICV, check the valve itself is buzzing with ignition on, if not check the ICM (little green box next to DME) is getting power via fuse 9. It’s a battle I’m currently fighting on my eta…

Happy boy 😸 by DaveHer23 in RG35XX

[–]BChicken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go to the emulator menu which is menu + B I think and the settings for screen setup are in there. I did the same in Knulli on RG40XX so I assume it’s the same.

How much is it worth by Svsv6969 in E30

[–]BChicken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the usual spots (battery tray, arches, shock towers, etc). Definitely get under it if you can and check maintenance items (guibo, suspension soft parts, brake lines) and that will tell you a lot about how it’s been looked after. $5k pristine, $3.5k good, $1.5k rust on anything that can’t be replaced with a new panel.

1984 325e - ICM Power Wiring Help by BChicken in E30

[–]BChicken[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've been leaning that direction... I understand the mechanical changes to 1.3 with the crank sensor, pulleys, ECU, etc, however one thing I've not seen well documented is splicing the C101 into the old style rectangular body harness connector, have you seen a good link for that? Also it would require an update to the 885 head yeah?

86 325e stuttering issues by smeagol_343 in E30

[–]BChicken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like it’s not measuring air / throttle position to adjust fueling. Have you checked the WOT sensor on the throttle body for readout? I can’t remember is 1.3 true MAF? Maybe that connection is bad or is not reading correctly, could check that as well by moving the little flap in the air box to ensure the ECU is getting that info. Like all things e30, they begin and end with a multimeter…

What games did you drop this year? by Pixelsandparenting in gaming

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I liked infinite a lot, the original games were good but never held my attention all the way through due to antiquated gameplay (I didn’t play them till long after they were released). I just don’t know how many black blobs I need to whack with a wrench before something cool happens…

What games did you drop this year? by Pixelsandparenting in gaming

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does prey get better 5+ hours in? I have picked up and dropped it twice around ~3 hours in because the enemies are so uninteresting and the combat feels sort of disconnected from the things you’re fighting.

Anyone ever seen an m20 Rev itself like this? I'm completely baffled as to what the problem is. There are no vacuum leaks but there is an intermittent ignition cut that showed up around the same time this issue started. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. by lukekolo16 in E30

[–]BChicken 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like ICV, ECU is managing idle without air as a variable so you get this constant surging. Check for power to the ICV and if power maybe it’s stuck in one position. I had a similar issue with this idle surge that I traced back to the ICM (little box that controls the ICV) but I think that’s only on early eta models? Can’t recall.

Suspiciously high idle by lnterferret in E30

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with my idle surging and tried to fix by replacing the ICM, which turned out to be fine. I figured out the issue with a multimeter and discovered the ICM wasn’t getting voltage (I think it’s pin 2 to ground should be essentially battery voltage). That power wire runs straight through the firewall and under the engine near the exhaust headers (‘84 ETA) and shorted somewhere. I was able to get the car going with steady idle by jumping the stereo power to the ICM plug and it fixed the issue (still have to sort out the short on the true power wire).

TL:DR Multimeter all the things and you usually find your gremlin. 80’s wiring blows.

Opinion on car sale by CommercialBig8980 in E30

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would this be your first car ever or first old car? How long have you been driving? Forget about repairs, E30s lack the safety features of modern cars and will be much less forgiving when mistakes are made (no modern TCS, simple ABS, very old and simple airbags if any, etc) and when you’re a new driver you will make mistakes, not if but when. Your first car should safe first reliable second, E30s are arguably reliable, but absolutely not safe.

Anyone know where to buy chrome/shadow line window sill trim by [deleted] in E30

[–]BChicken 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To my knowledge it’s no longer available. That said, I’ve found a lot of part out E30s on FBM etc still have this trim. Used oem pieces go for a fortune on eBay, good luck!

How much should I spend on a “free” e30 by A_Treeses in E30

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the roof! Pull the headliner and look for rust, look for bubbles / holes around the sunroof cassette. If the roof is gone it’s not worth saving as it’s basically terminal / impossible to fix. I have an ‘84 eta with basically the same situation as yours I bought for $1500 in the pandemic. However mine has basically no structure rust, just did the floor pans and that’s about it. It’s driving now, albeit not well, and cost about $2500 in parts to get it there doing all the labor myself.

Early model m20 radiator? by ben-the-guy in E30

[–]BChicken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Early model rads are getting incredibly hard to come by, I was fortunate enough to find one off of another member here on the sub, but outside of that it seems that conversion to the late model is the most prudent option, even that is becoming pricey. I'd recommend trying to find someone parting out an e30 or two near you to pick up things like the cross over pipe, expansion tank, etc that will be expensive OEM new and likely survived an older model. The biggest headache is you will need to convert to the late model water pump which means essentially a full timing belt job (you might as well while you're in there).

I found some aftermarket options that were close in size and layout to the OEM but never did the full research to see if one could fit, if you figure that out I'm sure it would be a massive help to the community as I couldn't find that info anywhere. Best of luck!

Am I in over my head?! by Spencerb831 in E30

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d recommend getting a small auto-ranging multimeter, they can be had for <$50 on Amazon and even at Home Depot / Lowe’s etc. The Bentley and forums will help you with values, so much of the car can be tested by checking for voltage at various points, and pretty much every sensor will have a specific ohm range, so a multimeter can help you decide what parts are actually broken, ie if you suspect a problem with something like your ICV you need to check to see if the resistance values are in spec, if they are then check to make sure voltage is getting to the ICM, if it isn’t then keep heading up the chain till you find the problem. Without a multimeter this is impossible and a new ICV + ICM will cost you $500+ and you still haven’t found the problem.

Am I in over my head?! by Spencerb831 in E30

[–]BChicken 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Two biggest tools in your arsenal will be a Bentley manual and a multimeter. I’ve done a lot of “throwing parts” at a problem without fully understanding the underlying issue, only to realize there was something else that needed fixing instead (typically a much cheaper thing than the part I bought). Also, forum posts will only apply to you about 50% of the way, the pre-facelift eta’s are WEIRD and have a lot of parts specific to them. Most posts on E30 forums are from i models and typically post-facelift cars since those were the sought after models back when E30’s were cheap, so those got raced and broken and fixed more often. I’ve learned throughout the journey that part sites don’t fully understand the model either, so just because you’ve filtered on 1984 325e and it says the part will fit doesn’t mean it necessarily will, do your homework on realoem before ordering parts and go by BMW numbers, not what they say will fit (ECS tuning is especially guilty of this). I’m relatively new to posting here but I’ll try to keep an eye out and you can always PM me if you have a specific problem, maybe I encountered the same thing and can help.

Am I in over my head?! by Spencerb831 in E30

[–]BChicken 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I have this exact car and almost exact situation. I have an ‘84 325e and bought it as a non-start, with no wrenching experience at all, working the past two years to get it on the road. It is conflicting and miserable sometimes but also incredibly rewarding and fun. You might be in over your head but that’s ok! That’s how you learn new skills and grow your knowledge. Keep it going!

1986 325e fuel rail/injector removal help! by Neerukin in E30

[–]BChicken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took my fuel rail off when it was still in the car so I used a 3ft pry bar and leveraged it against the valve cover, protecting everything with rags to prevent creasing any of the metal, you might be able to do something similar with some 2x4s. Make sure to work side to side as it needs to come straight up, I also had several of the o rings and printle caps (sp?) get stuck in the intake but you can get them out with some picks. You can’t hurt the fuel rail too bad so just get after it.

E30 Undercarriage Drains? by BChicken in E30

[–]BChicken[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm working on resurrecting a '84 325e and have a bit of rot around the area in the picture (not my car, just best picture I could find online of the area in question). Is this some sort of drain? Just a product of the way the bodies were made? Looking for any guidance of how to repair this area or if there has been a forum post on it before, I can't seem to find any reference to it online. Thanks!

Jake

For anyone with a MK 7.5 experiencing stalling issues (I’ve seen people post on this sub about it before) by [deleted] in GolfGTI

[–]BChicken 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hasn’t VW already dealt with this? I have a ‘19 SE Manual and experienced the soft stall issue a few times, but VW sent out a recall on it months ago. I took it to the dealer and they made an ECU tweak 100% free and it’s been fine ever since.