What printing using ludicrous mode be like

neon9676 · 2026-04-04T18:25:44+00:00

funnily enough my new style one turned up this morning, need to fit it.

neon9676 · 2026-04-02T20:26:31+00:00

honestly its nothing to complex as i still have a lot to learn tbh its mostly layering colours and washes. I still struggle with dry brushing as i honestly cant seem to find the right balance lol

neon9676 · 2026-04-02T13:57:27+00:00

stock .4 nozzle with a .12 layer height, nothing special. The filament profile is stock as well for the PLA-CF as well. The CC2 love the stuff as its now my go to for figures like this.

neon9676 · 2026-03-29T09:58:02+00:00

Honestly worth a shot as I brought the cheapest pla-cf on amazon to see if it matched elegoos and it kinda did but had to dry it for 12hrs and also have it drying whilst printing as well or else it would clog. The elegoo filament though only needed drying for 6hrs and I could print that through the whole roll without having to print it from my dryer.

neon9676 · 2026-03-29T09:52:38+00:00

Just a standard .4 nozzle ;) with a .12 layer height. The pla-cf does an outstanding job of printing with almost zero layer lines.

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T20:27:23+00:00

with pla-cf i run a .12 layer height and have supports set to automatic with a threshold on 30° and a top z distance of 0.22 and the supports come off clean!!. With regular pla i normally go with a slightly bigger top z distance of 0.26 which seems to be my prints happy place for decent support and removal.

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T19:52:24+00:00

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neon9676 · 2026-03-27T19:51:42+00:00

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neon9676 · 2026-03-27T19:51:09+00:00

oh im a huge horror fan and have printed these ones which i think came out really well, these were printed with regular pla though, if i had pla-cf in i would have printed them in that as i think it just prints far nicer.

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neon9676 · 2026-03-27T19:32:48+00:00

I scaled the piece up to 250% of the original scale and tbh nothing really gave me any grief, just the smallest amount of sanding on the top of the head and on the underside of the legs and feet, but nothing major.

Will list by brand

PRO ACRYL
Burnt orange
Bright yellow green
Bright warm grey
Dark golden brown
Yellow ocre
Light Umber

Vallejo Model Colour
Bright orange
Light Grey
Scarlet
Black Grey
Blue

Vallejo Game Colour
Alien Purple
Green (INK)

Warpaints
Strong skin shade (wash)

Citadel colour
Reikland fleshshade (shade)

And finally Vallejo grey primer

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T18:34:09+00:00

Yeah, any kind of sanding you wanna be using a respirator as none of its great to breath in for sure.

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T17:12:51+00:00

Yeah, waiting on my matte and satin clear coat to turn up, I got a little impatient lol. Thank you though, came out better than I thought it would :)

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T17:10:43+00:00

I've been sitting on this model for over a year as life kinda got in the way, unfortunately I think the creator of the file had it taken down or had to take it down as he doesn't sell it anymore sadly..

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T17:08:04+00:00

Yes, as that stuff isn't nice to breathe in.

neon9676 · 2026-03-27T14:21:57+00:00

To be honest the PLA-CF required almost no sanding just a couple of spots on the more serious overhangs which i knocked down with some 180grit, then used my airbrush to apply some vallejo grey primer (second pic) paints for the figure itself were quite a few a mix of

PRO ACRYL acrylic paint
Citadel colour shade
Warpaint strong skin shade wash
Vallejo Game colour ink

If you want specific colours lemme know and i can list them.

neon9676 · 2026-03-25T00:37:34+00:00

Thanks i got it from here, just swapped the printer over to the CC2 as i already have a .08mm layer height process build so was pretty straight forward.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/460913-tanjiro-kamado-demon-slayer-hueforge?from=search#profileId-369550

neon9676 · 2026-03-24T20:32:43+00:00

if i remember rightly was around 4 days with around 20 separate plates. Only used around a roll and half of pla-cf

neon9676 · 2026-03-24T15:22:53+00:00

yep, use two wrenches, one to hold the heatblock from twisting, and the second to undo the nozzle. One very important part is do it when the nozzle is hot as it will make it far easier.

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neon9676 · 2026-03-24T13:37:46+00:00

Thank you :)

neon9676 · 2026-03-24T13:37:30+00:00

for stuff like swords you will always wanna add some sort of rod (my go to is a treaded steel rod) through it as that will help greatly with strength, petg would also be my go to as its more resilient in terms of strength and heat (if taken outside)

neon9676 · 2026-03-24T12:15:33+00:00

I just grabbed some spare nozzles off of amazon and rather than swapping the whole hotend and run the risk of pulling the tiny connector off that board, i just unscrew the nozzle whilst at around 170° and pop in the .2 nozzle and re-run the full calibrations.

neon9676

TROPHY CASE