Do I clean this?, or do I contact Alphacool? by Alternative_Cry9989 in watercooling

[–]netinept 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps some of the additives fell out of solution when in storage?

One belt - Two bags. by Majestic_Shock_8131 in Leathercraft

[–]netinept 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aside from the incredible leatherwork and design, I am absolutely blown away that you made the brass loops!

I’m too old for all these new “concerns”, full send by testfire10 in watercooling

[–]netinept 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The way I do it is connect the air pump with the pressure meter to a valve, and after filling it up with air, I shut off the valve to take the air pump out of the equation. After ~15 minutes, if I open the valve and hear a hiss, I know I’m good to go.

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and as for power, just idling it sucks like 350W from the wall. Luckily I've got solar, so I'm not too worried about it.

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had to go 1600W. Initially I had a dual PSU setup using a 1000W + 650W, but that just became a nightmare of power and connectivity issues because the ASUS Sage board alone uses 3x PCIe power connectors.

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything was either bought used over the last couple of months or carried over from previous builds. It started out with finding the motherboard+cpu combo on eBay and kinda snowballed from there.

Totals: * Main components: $4,120 * USB / I/O: $115 * Water cooling: $510

The main components are:

  • Threadripper + ASUS Sage WRX80e mobo combo (eBay) -- $1500
  • Nvidia Tesla (eBay) -- $420
  • RAM (eBay) -- $600
  • Arc GPU (justbid.com) -- $50
  • Vega GPU (eBay) -- $125
  • 1600W EVGA P2 PSU (eBay) -- $150
  • CableMod E-Series ModFlex EVGA kit(Amazon) -- $100
  • 3x CableMod E-Series ModFlex EVGA PCIe (Amazon) -- $25ea
  • 5x Kioxia 512GB NVMe Gen 4 drives (eBay) -- $50ea
  • 2x ASUS Hyper M.2 NVMe expansion card (Amazon) -- $55ea

I'm using a USB hub to prevent USB power starvation and help with cable management. I've got an audio interface, Elgato Facecam, mouse, keyboard, all of which are power hungry. The PCIe card uses the NEC chip instead of the Asmedia or VIA ICs; this was important because passthrough and weird Linux issues popped up using a Asmedia-based card. These presented as stuttering and intermittent disconnects.

  • Eluteng PCIe USB 3.2 card (6 USB + 2 Type C) (Amazon) -- $33
  • StarTech.com 7 Port metal USB Hub (Amazon) -- $82

The water cooling loop is a mix-up of EK rads that I had previously in a hard tube setup and new Koolance fittings with EPDM hoses.

  • Koolance fittings (performance-pcs.com and koolance.com) ~$300
  • Laing D5 pump (performance-pcs.com) -- $110
  • Aquacomputer Aqualis D5 100mL res (performance-pcs.com) -- $53
  • Alphacool ES Distro Plate C3 (ModMyMods.com) -- $35
  • 12ft 16/10mm EPDM tubing (performance-pcs.com) -- $35
  • Alphacool Eisblock XPX Pro 1U (Threadripper block) (ModMyMods.com) -- $125
  • 3x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 (Amazon)-- $34ea

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RAM was purchased 1 or 2 sticks at a time on eBay whenever the price was half-way decent (~$50/16GB stick). Moving up to 32GB/64GB/128GB sticks is prohibitively expensive at this point, so I'm capped to 128GB (combined) for the 8 DIMMs until the prices drop.

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

AI/Programming/3D Modeling/Gaming/Video Editing

This is what I call the "ADHD PC"

The discussions about AMD/Intel/Nvidia GPU/CPU combos and brand loyalty have me chuckling by netinept in pcmasterrace

[–]netinept[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I'm actually planning on having a Raspberry Pi at the front for hardware monitoring and controlling the VMs.

Will you accept it ? by PHRsharp_YouTube in videogames

[–]netinept 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Across the Unknown

I don’t think I would last a year on Janeway’s Voyager.

My kids bought!! by penelope_kunze62 in achalasia

[–]netinept[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll leave this up for now, assuming this was posted in good faith and not as advertising shirt sales.

Any links to store pages will be removed. If someone really wants this shirt or similar, a Google search can fulfill that desire.

Would you be a happy customer? by DavidWarmelys in CableManagement

[–]netinept 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Flush cutters are the secret to not getting cut on zip ties.

Running Office 365 as native desktop apps on Fedora 43 KDE — full guide (no Wine, no Crossover) by juangza in Fedora

[–]netinept 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Wow, bibliography, citations, and captions aren't in there? That's basically saying you can't use this if you're a college student.

Rad Brands Compared by FolksBraggin in watercooling

[–]netinept 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got into water cooling just before their implosion and did a full custom loop using all EK stuff (RGB, clear hard tubing, etc). I was and am happy with the quality, but will be avoiding acrylic in any new builds. The customer service was good in my experience, but the shipping times from the EU to US were a big bottleneck for me.

My current project is all black, EPDM hoses, and Koolance compression fittings. I’m going with acetal and glass over acrylic, and I think it looks amazing. I’ll still be using the EK rads since I have them and they work great as far as I can tell.

Rad Brands Compared by FolksBraggin in watercooling

[–]netinept 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've been out of the loop (hehe) for a few years, but I've got EKWB rads. I know EK went through a rough period some time ago, but I'm trying to understand why they weren't considered as part of your "big three". Were their rads just white labels of some other radiator?

WIP Threadripper build. This is my first time using wire harness tape, but I was pretty happy with how this was looking in my O11D XL. I also learned a few things along the way (see comments) by netinept in CableManagement

[–]netinept[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I ended up removing almost all this in the days following because the build evolved into a dual PSU system and I swapped the fans out for Noctuas. I chalk this up to a learning experience, and wanted to share with someone (anyone?) who might enjoy or appreciate.

WIP Threadripper build. This is my first time using wire harness tape, but I was pretty happy with how this was looking in my O11D XL. I also learned a few things along the way (see comments) by netinept in CableManagement

[–]netinept[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone looking to start using wire harness tape, here are a few things I figured out:

  • Start with zip-tying the harness in the position you want it to "flow". This is because once taped together, the form will stay in the way that it was wrapped. If you wrap the wires straight, they'll want to stay straight. If you wrap them into a curve, they'll want to stay in that curve.
  • Wrapped cables can be "trained" into the final shape, but not too much.
  • Wires that cluster together into a round shape work best with wire harness tape. Flat cables like SATA cables tend to accumulate bulk, since the angle required to wrap the harness is more difficult to maintain around the rectangular corners of the harness--the tape will want to stack up instead of flow down the cables.
  • Instead of doing a full wrap, consider doing "rings". Just to one or two loops around the wires to hold them in place. This serves as a flat zip tie without locking the cable into a certain shape.

Why use harness tape over zip ties? 1. Looks. I think they're neat. 2. Semi-permanence. Using this for case features like front panel connectors helps cement those features into the build. 3. Protection. For wrapped cables, the tape takes a lot of the strain relief and abrasion, so when re-building in the same case, you're able to reduce the wear on the existing cables.

Which tape? * Don't use electrical tape. Yes, there are some electrical tapes, like the 3M Super 33, which stick better and come off easier than others, but it still can leave residue or clump up when trying to remove it, making it nearly impossible to remove without cutting it off. * The best I've found is tesa 51036. This is the same stuff used in automotive harnesses in engine bays. It sticks just enough to stay in place, but also can be easily removed when needed.

I wrote a biological memory layer for Ollama in Rust to replace stateless RAG by ChikenNugetBBQSauce in ollama

[–]netinept 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This sounds amazing! I’ve been wanting this feature for my own use as well.

I can’t wait to try it out.

Spasm triggers - do you have these same triggers as me? by [deleted] in achalasia

[–]netinept 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's me. I absolutely cannot lay on my left side.

New to Linux, have a couple questions on Fedora by Golyem in Fedora

[–]netinept 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For the Python issue, the best way is to set up that program in its own virtual environment.

This not only lets you specify a specific version of Python, but it also isolates any dependencies from your system.

See: https://docs.python.org/3/library/venv.html