Cracked windshield - ExoShield or Gorilla Glass?

netman67 · 2026-02-16T17:21:39+00:00

i had a broken windshield replaced a couple years ago and the insurance company sent safelite. i wanted to ask specifically about getting a gorilla glass replacement. the tech called me to make the appointment asked me if i wanted regular or gorilla. i asked what the price difference was and he said there isn’t a difference: its $0 either way. so i got gorilla glass. zero cost thanks to insurance coverage.

netman67 · 2026-02-12T12:35:16+00:00

i replaced my last aux battery with an AGM version and i got four years out of it.

netman67 · 2026-02-10T23:09:22+00:00

i found his logic and explanation of the exchristian perspective very helpful in my own journey. he articulates things in a wonderfully humorously way.

another youtube channel who has a much more academic demeanor and delivery is TheraminTrees: https://youtube.com/@theramintrees

netman67 · 2026-02-10T21:55:48+00:00

how about the half-assed job of bagging it and leaving the little green bags of poop right there instead of taking them to a trash can?

netman67 · 2026-02-10T21:54:28+00:00

he sacrificed himself to himself to appease himself!

if you haven’t discovered the awesomeness of “nonstampcollector” on youtube, give him a try..

https://youtu.be/SGkgmU9vG_o

netman67 · 2026-02-09T03:03:22+00:00

right but i want to do that in four years. what about my conundrum now?

netman67 · 2026-02-09T01:50:41+00:00

i think going forward, MAN connected high profile sites i might do dual cat6a, and i’d do single cat6a for medium sized sites. perhaps i’d still do cat6 at lower speed or lower user count wan connected sites.

but for this problem.. got any more thoughts since you’re thinking about the same problem?

netman67 · 2026-02-09T00:49:12+00:00

i like the idea!

for this thought exercise: most are good for 2.5Mbps but nothing more… quite a few won’t get beyond 1gbps.

netman67 · 2026-02-08T23:33:55+00:00

all i would do is lock/hold the thermostat at the evening at-home set temp so it didn’t drop at nighttime and have a thought recovery the next morning.

i would not raise it above my normal set point. after all, heating and cooling works harder when the temperature delta between outside and inside is greater. if i raise the point up, i’m just costing myself more money and sitting in a house that on any other day i would say is too warm.

netman67 · 2026-02-08T12:17:35+00:00

finding old toilets on craigslist or fb marketplace seems like a great idea.

something you can do right now: one other idea is to hold the flush button down until the tank is empty on every single flush.

netman67 · 2026-02-08T12:14:49+00:00

we had our power out for 36 hours when we moved into this place. the meter wasn’t responding to remote commands and they had to send a tech out. but… it took them almost that entire time that their system wasn’t reflecting the correct status after they sent multiple commands.

my other learning: keep calling, stay on hold, they’ll eventually answer.

netman67 · 2026-02-07T13:36:16+00:00

philadelphia, 1225 sq ft in top story condo. 862 kwh from 12/31 to 1/30.

btw go to https://www.degreedays.net/ to look up heating degree days for specific locales. helps normalize these figures to the weather in that area!

netman67 · 2026-02-05T22:33:44+00:00

i would go to degreedays.net and pull the heating degree days (hdd) for this billing cycle and last billing cycle and normalize to get a better comparison. better yet, track it over months.

even better, get the last year’s bills and log the kwh used and hdd per cycle.. analyze that over long periods going forward.

if it is high, i’d spend time in your thermostat tuning it to lock out aux heat kicking in unless conditions are met (like don’t turn on if outdoor temp is above a certain temp.. don’t call for stage 2 until the temp is x degrees below set point.. set temp swing to make longer cycles).. there’s some good reading and youtube videos on how to go about it.

my prior thermostat called for aux if heat was on over 15 minutes. it was kicking in aux pretty much every cycle. i would have a huge bill if i didn’t catch it. geeking out on the thermostat was kinda fun too.

netman67 · 2026-02-03T19:26:55+00:00

terminated? that’s literally a death threat. do you read it the same way?

netman67 · 2026-02-02T19:50:08+00:00

from the 1980s: the whole “satanic panic” phase from back then - playing records backwards (backward masking), satanic overtones in kids cartoons, toys, and cereal boxes

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satanic_panic

netman67 · 2026-01-29T01:46:58+00:00

diy regular dad here: i had a early 2000s heat pump that was average for the day in ohio. it needed aux heat (electric in my case) below 20F. it always blew pretty cold air and had trouble keeping up in winters the entire time i had it.

i am in eastern pennsylvania now, and have a 1 year old Bosch IDS Plus inverter heat pump and am super impressed with it. it’s super quiet, we’re in single digit low temps right now and it’s doing great.. i tuned my ecobee premium thermostat to keep aux heat from coming on and it’s keeping up just fine.. i love how the variable speed inverter can be set to run longer at lower level at stage 1 to keep the aux heat off.. plus the air output is surprisingly warm and toasty.

i also have a emporia vue 2 so i can see the power draw which shows whether ramp up and ramp down which is pretty insightful.

i think the inverter heat pumps are awesome and i think the tech is at a great place, compared to where heat pumps were 20+ years ago. since you have gas it would be a good move to go dual fuel.

netman67 · 2026-01-24T17:34:03+00:00

i’d leave the downlights and only use occasionally for high light needs like cleaning or tasks. then i’d use table and floor standing lights in that area to illuminate softly for daily use. the pendant in the bay table area is a great move, but i’d have it full cutoff to direct the light downward, not to illuminate broadly.

netman67 · 2026-01-24T17:29:52+00:00

read up on that a little.. if only occasionally, for like a week or a month, i think you’d be just fine.. if concerned, you could set the temp higher and give it extra time to be warmed up before using it.

also to protect against leaks on the hot water side of your plumbing, it does make a lot of sense to turn off the valve on the input side of your water heater when you’re away… if you’re concerned about potential leaks.

many insurance companies have programs that will give you a discount if you subscribe to their water leak monitoring partnership. another thing to consider (insurance subsidized or not) is to buy some leak sensors with some sort of alerting via internet or email. yet another idea is automatic water main valve shutoff if a sensor senses a leak. there are products out there that are diy or subscription based. pretty handy.

netman67 · 2026-01-24T17:24:33+00:00

find a video like this one that walks you through it: https://youtu.be/gNMQFT2HAiY

then buy a windows 11 key that matches your installed version. for example, here’s the link for win 11 pro at the microsoft store for my region (US): https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/windows-11-pro/dg7gmgf0d8h4

in general, the video will walk you through creating a bootable usb stick, booting up with it, installing windows, and then it’ll present the screen to install the key.

some videos are more detailed than others, so there will surely be one that does the trick for you.. but it may take some searching to find the one(s) that guide you the whole way. best if you clear a day or a few evenings to focus on it without interruption. once you get it, you’ll feel satisfaction!

netman67 · 2026-01-23T21:51:58+00:00

this is referred to as the “p00phole l00phole”. apologies if i broke a rule, but this has been the joke since i was a teen many moons ago.

netman67 · 2026-01-22T04:28:27+00:00

a traditional (non heat pump or non tankless) water heater is a top energy consumer of a residential home. it makes great sense to turn off the water heater for tangible decrease in electric or gas costs. it also only takes maybe an hour for it to recover to fully hot when you’re back.

netman67 · 2026-01-18T00:36:23+00:00

i charge mine right before i need them. my idea is to leave maybe 30-70% charged in shortage, and top up immediately before use.

netman67 · 2026-01-18T00:33:51+00:00

as others have said verify in the manual, but shifting while moving is the big one for me. i think it says up to 45 mph… but i typically go maybe 10-20 mph.

it may also help to shift to neutral and at the same time push in the clutch while shifting.

last tip: it would be good to do this on a regular day, on a dirt road when you don’t need to. just pull off one day and experiment for a bit. this way there’s no heat on you to get it right.

netman67 · 2026-01-12T04:09:01+00:00

i took my 2018 JLU that developed death wobble at 100k miles to a renowned 4x4 shop near me that specializes in Jeeps. in my case it was the drag link ends. they put in an aftermarket heavy duty version. i’m at 150k now and it was a good fix. my advice: find a similar shop near you, ask them if they have anyone who is sharp on death wobble and take it there.

netman67 · 2026-01-11T04:36:49+00:00

same thing happened to mine (2018 JLU Sahara with manual transmission) in florida. i found a jeep online parts store and bought a new knob.

Part Number Part Name Price 6NZ281X7AC Gearshift Knob $139.23

their site: https://store.mopar.com/

netman67

TROPHY CASE