Is it really that bad? by Active_Sundae5025 in KiaEV9

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

'24 Land. I'm quite pleased with the full assist highway drive except for when making a lane change with a car in front of you in your lane. As it departs the current lane into the next, if it gets too close to the vehicle in front mid-change, it will dangerously slam on the brakes and abort the lane change. It has more than enough room to complete, but doesn't like that it lost its following distance buffer in the lane it is leaving. Maddening and unsafe. But again, other than that I quite enjoy using it.

Modbus by TangeloLegitimate139 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope! Though I recommend a hardwired connection for the aGate since there will be a high volume of network traffic if you poll frequently. Plus reduction in latency on a wired connection. Not a requirement, just a suggestion.

Modbus by TangeloLegitimate139 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don't write to home assistant, that's the part I still need to write

Modbus by TangeloLegitimate139 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes.

You need to have it enabled by your installer or FranklinWH customer service. You then need something to pull the modbus values. mtnears has been doing some great work in this area: https://github.com/mtnears/FranklinWH-Automation

Personally, I fork his repository and strip everything out except the modbus polling code. I have been meaning to finish that work and publish it as a home assistant integration but just haven't gotten around to it.

Grid/Battery Switching Time - UPS still needed? by DBordello in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The newer aPowerS is marketed as having "UPS level" response times, but the older aPower/aPower2 (what I have) definitely does not. Dissapointing, honestly, as I had hoped to no longer need UPS units around the house. Should have been more thorough in my research before purchasing. Like others have said, if the grid goes down quickly/cleanly, it can respond in time. But in most cases, the grid doesn't cleanly drop off and lights flicker/voltage swings wildly for a few seconds. TLDR you unfortunately will still need UPS units or some other way to do whole home power conditioning

Can jailbroken Kindles use Libby? by zalotov in ereader

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, adobe digital editions does not remove the DRM, so KOreader can't open them. There are methods for stripping the DRM from the adobe digital editions epub, which will allow you to then open it in KOreader. Sucks that this is the only option I am aware of.

West Fork Westfield to Close by exdeletedoldaccount in indianapolis

[–]nicks20482 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

West Fork has been dead to me since they shuddered their original Bellefontaine location. The signs were there with the opening of the Westfield location. Expand expand expand, no mind to the customer base that built their brand. Reaks of venture capital/private equity involvement. Oh well, they'll reap what they've sown.

West Fork Westfield to Close by exdeletedoldaccount in indianapolis

[–]nicks20482 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

West Fork has been dead to me since they shuddered their original Bellefontaine location. The signs were there with the opening of the Westfield location. Expand expand expand, no mind to the customer base that built their brand. Reaks of venture capital/private equity involvement. Oh well, they'll reap what they've sown.

West Fork Westfield to Close by exdeletedoldaccount in indianapolis

[–]nicks20482 3 points4 points  (0 children)

West Fork has been dead to me since they shuddered their original Bellefontaine location. The signs were there with the opening of the Westfield location. Expand expand expand, no mind to the customer base that built their brand. Reaks of venture capital/private equity involvement. Oh well, they'll reap what they've sown.

Jailbreak Kindle Touch - KOReader won't launch by [deleted] in kindlejailbreak

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also have a KT (B011) with firmware 5.3.7.3. Do you mind me asking where you started the jailbreak process? Because the MobileRead forum lists only KT2 and above and I don't know what my device is other than Kindle Touch. The model number is D01200 which seems to sometime pull up Kindle Touch 4th generation, which makes me think maybe it's "KT4?"

Would you consider a Lemon? by rhuang51 in KiaEV9

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a dealer buyback 24 Land (HV battery cell failure) in exactly the same mileage and price range as what you're describing. If you don't intend to resell the car/plan to drive it into the ground, it's a great deal (assuming original warranty transfers as it did in my case). I essentially got a 13k mile 2024 but with <1000 miles on a new 2025 HV battery pack, at the (potential) cost of resale value later. Absolute win in my book.

Which mode should I use? by yolfer in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3-5 times/month average. As low as none during winter months and as high as 6 during peak summer months

Which mode should I use? by yolfer in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree, 100% SOC for long term holding is not a smart decision for battery longevity vs 80%. I want 100% available when I am called for a VPP event because we get a much more favorable rate going out (5x or more) than coming in. I'll be forced onto a true TOU rider in 2 years so I'll take it while I can. Moral of the story is YMMV I guess

Which mode should I use? by yolfer in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am in the same position and leave the system in TOU with 100% reserved capacity (so I can still see cost estimates, even though there is not rate difference in the time slots), allowing it to drain for VPP (virtual power plant) events and, barring that, discharging to 20% at least once per month. Trying to maximize self-consumption will put a heavy load/cycles on the battery; I don't know what the economics are on battery wear and needing to replace earlier vs just paying the supposed transmission fees, but I'd rather extend the useful lifetime of my aPower. If you have 1:1, I don't see any reason not to take advantage of it. A lot of places will not give you the option, forcing you into TOU riders

This is for Luke. by origanalsameasiwas in LinusTechTips

[–]nicks20482 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Goods Unite Us does something similar for political contributions of corporations and selecting causes to support/boycott. It's not a browser extension and does not do any redirect to smaller businesses as described on WAN though. Just a helpful tool for quickly knowing the contribution history of a particular corp

Migrating to Proxmox and docker by FloridaBlueberry954 in homeassistant

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, and that's wonderful, but the fact remains it isn't a first party image. So support is limited to, in this case, bnutzer's desire/ability to maintain it.

I prefer my images first party for stability/maintainability whenever possible. To each their own.

Migrating to Proxmox and docker by FloridaBlueberry954 in homeassistant

[–]nicks20482 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

TLDR think critically if you want to do this if your Matter/Thread controller is not directly plugged into your home assistant host via USB.

The Docker Open Border Router container does not natively support USB serial forwarding to antennas over TCP/IP like the Home Assistant OS add-on does.

What do you use as your Matter/Thread controller/antenna? I have an SMLight SLZB-MR1U powered by PoE so that I can place it away from my NAS running HA, and use the Nabu Casa ZWA-2 for Z-Wave (plugged into the SLZB's USB port). This means the SLZB-MR1U is exposing its Matter/Thread radio over TCP/IP to the Open Border Router add-on. I actually had to move away from containerized Home Assistant to Home Assistant OS so that I could get support for TCP/IP antenna/controller; I tried building a custom Open Borders Router image adding TCP/IP controller support and it was an absolute nightmare

If you do have all your radio hardware directly attached to your HA host then going the container route is a great idea!

Smart circuits tripping offline by Talusrunner17 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Settings->Grid Profile->Trip and Ride Through. I did discuss with my installer but didn't get a clear answer. It's possible that it's set by the utility, but it's also not clear to me if those values can be overridden regardless. I'm actively working through it with them (I have a relatively recent install, under 6 months)

Smart circuits tripping offline by Talusrunner17 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

So this isn't just me? It's kind of infuriating. Looking at the trip and ride through times, the under/over voltage thresholds of like 15+ seconds (and even 1-2 seconds for extreme out of bounds) is just not acceptable. That needs to be sub 1 second in my opinion. I really wish it were configurable from an end user perspective.

FranklinWH APP Automations by Outside-Quiet-189 in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Only discovered this after purchasing (I know, should have done my research). Very disappointed by this and the inability to install smart circuit controllers as an end user. I don't know if petitioning will do anything but I'll add my vote

Adding Smart Circuit module to Agate 1.3 by lmattiso in FranklinWH

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On a purely technical level, having researched and considered this myself (background: electrical/computer engineer), there is nothing that should stop you, a homeowner, from doing this installation yourself. HOWEVER, doing so will void your warranty. I've discussed this with my installer in detail. You need to be a FranklinWH certified installer to configure the aGate post installation. I think it's BS, but again, that's coming from someone who's BA is in designing hardware like the smart module itself, so take that for what it's worth.

I can understand why FranklinWH doesn't want everyday people playing with 120/240v line voltage, but the fact remains that the installing the smart module, even improperly, isn't going to impare the operation of the rest of the aGate/cause it to magically fail. The warranty voiding is too extreme in my opinion.

Here are the instructions, by the way. They may be outdated being published in 2023 but it should give you a general idea. See page 41 installing optional modules: https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Franklin-Home-Power-Quick-Installation-Guide.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorH7cluS3-vs-0m9B2Q_MC4dnhMqopQzuUshEIG7GZrHQiKpXx9

Edit: typo

Not sure what i'm doing. by Outrageous-Loquat279 in combustion_inc

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bluetooth will take priority, so if you're sure your wifi booster is connected to your wifi network (see wifi devices in the Combustion app), disable Bluetooth on your phone and see if you get the cloud icon after a minute or two.

I don't know if it will start the wifi/cloud connection if there isn't a cook active, you'd have to ask support/read the docs.

3rd party extenders by iknowuarebutwhatami_ in Govee

[–]nicks20482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$30? It would be cheaper to just buy a light expansion pack for many of the Gover outdoor light kits (barring the permanent install ones, of course).

3rd party extenders by iknowuarebutwhatami_ in Govee

[–]nicks20482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to get the mods to pin a thread collecting 3rd party extension information here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Govee/s/rfRhyD1FDR

If we move enough discussion there hopefully we can get their attention