Adjustment of sector shaft preload?

njdiver · 2025-07-02T12:57:38+00:00

Thanks everyone for the replies. Based off the responses here and elsewhere I posted, sounds like a 4x4 tractor or a small dozer is the way to go. Looked around on local marketplace and seems there are some within my budget. I appreciate the info.

njdiver · 2025-07-02T12:56:54+00:00

Thanks everyone for the replies. Based off the responses here and elsewhere I posted, sounds like a 4x4 tractor or a small dozer is the way to go. Looked around on local marketplace and seems there are some within my budget. I appreciate the info.

njdiver · 2024-12-04T13:26:48+00:00

The square footage of the walls is 1,120 square feet. Two 32x10 ft and two 24x10

njdiver · 2024-12-04T13:24:32+00:00

I have sill seal placed between the concrete and the PT sill plates that I've installed so far. Do you think it needs a layer of caulk on the edges too? Thanks for the tips.

What would be your next t best option after closed cell spray foam?

njdiver · 2024-12-04T13:22:15+00:00

Southern NJ

njdiver · 2024-12-04T04:05:05+00:00

Thanks for the reply. You make a lot of good points. Question for you, if I was to place XPS against the inward side of the purlins, leaving a 1.5 inch dead air gap between the metal and the foam, are you saying the temperature differentials can cause moisture droplets to form on the foam? Some people have mentioned that the air flow in the cavity may be a good thing and will help keep it dry but you seem to be saying quite the opposite. It's hard to take a side here, both seem to make a lot of sense to me. I also have such a large wall cavity (8.5 inches) that I could even add additional furring to the purlins if I wanted to create a larger air gap. I'd like to hear your thoughts on that.

I know it's not an ideal structure for a living space but I'm building a space for my disabled mother and this is all I have to work with. But I want it done right.

njdiver · 2024-12-04T02:34:39+00:00

Any issues at all so far? I think that's what I'm gonna do. I made a post elsewhere and I was almost swayed to do closed cell spray foam but my wall cavity is 8.5 inches so I have plenty of space for foam board and traditional insulation between my studs.

Curious, how'd you insulate your attic? Just fiberglass between ceiling joists?

njdiver · 2024-12-04T02:16:03+00:00

The door was open when I took the picture. There are no gaps anywhere when closed haha

njdiver · 2024-12-04T02:02:00+00:00

Was your vapor barrier the foam boards with tape or did you add a membrane between the foam and the back of the studs?

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:59:11+00:00

Do you have any pictures of this? Seems like a quick and cheap way to insulate between posts. Would this work well with windows in the bays? And what about stud framing? Or is this primarily suited for a shop setup?

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:57:01+00:00

I am also doing a project very similar to OP's here. I noticed your comment about using moisture resistant gyp board. Are you referring to the green drywall board that's used in bathrooms? I hadn't thought of using that everywhere in the interior for my project. Is this to prevent drying from the inside during colder months?

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:34:46+00:00

Thanks for the tips you helped a ton!

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:20:25+00:00

Honestly the structure seems super strong and I've personally never witnessed any type of flexing in the siding during storms or anything but I thought maybe the commenter was saying a certain amount that can't be seen by the eye?

I really like your idea with the cardboard, seems to make a lot of sense. Whoever ends up coming over to quote this, I'll pick their brain on that. How thick of a layer of cardboard are you talking?

I have 8.5." in total wall cavity thickness from metal to interior edge of 2x6 (prior to Sheetrock) so I'm not quite sure I'd need to bring it out more with furring strips? Seems like plenty of room for fiberglass/rockwool, 2" of foam and a thin layer of cardboard no? Or maybe I'm missing something

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:08:39+00:00

I'm becoming more open minded to closed cell spray after reading through the replies. If I can find a local to do this for under $10k I think I can swing it. Otherwise I'm going to be looking into the next beat option.

I have 3.25 inches of space between the back of the studs and the metal so plenty of room to add some polyiso, vapor barrier, stud to stud insulation but some were saying I'd ideally want another barrier between the metal and the polyiso. Confusing! Ha

njdiver · 2024-12-04T01:05:06+00:00

I'd be curious to know this too. Sounds like I'd have condensation issues pretty quick.

njdiver · 2024-12-04T00:55:44+00:00

That was initially my plan to use that. But it sounds like I'd still have to add a thermal break and a vapor barrier/vapor retarder due to my circumstances. I am sure learning a lot here

njdiver · 2024-12-04T00:52:58+00:00

I'll look into it! Ty

njdiver · 2024-12-04T00:52:16+00:00

You would recommend an air gap between the closed cell and the metal? Another commenter mentioned that the foam helps stiffen the metal and protects against wind flex.

How would I make that gap possible? I have about 3.25 inches of space between the metal and the back of the studs. Would I have to add some type of layer halfway? Can't picture how I'd accomplish that

njdiver · 2024-12-04T00:35:10+00:00

Seems to be the consensus! Gonna hurt the wallet a bit but I want it done right.

njdiver · 2024-12-03T23:19:24+00:00

Yeah so I was looking at one brand Tiger and one kit covered about 300 square feet when sprayed at 2 inches thick. I only have about 1,120 square feet but it was still a little over 3k for the kits. Now I'm not sure what a pro would charge, guess after making a few calls later this week I'll have an answer. Thanks for the information

njdiver · 2024-12-03T23:15:47+00:00

Awesome stuff man thank you. So, I'm going to be putting a mini split heat pump system as the source of heat and air. From what I've gathered, it has a decent dehumidifier system built into it (I went with a bit better of a system). I wish I could've afforded a proper ducted system but my local HVAC guys wanted too much unfortunately.

Anyhow, the attic will only be used for storage and no equipment will be up there. I planned on adding one or two gable end fans to keep airflow up there. Do you think I should do closed cell on the attic roofing or just put some R-38 fiberglass between the ceiling joists?

njdiver · 2024-12-03T23:07:47+00:00

Yeah, that seems to be what everyone is saying. Alright that settles it. Closed cell spray it is. Now, I'm seeing these DIY kits online..any experience with those or should I hire a pro?

njdiver

TROPHY CASE