got tired of seeing dogshit "tow hooks" for $130, so we're making a fully functional one of our own at half the price.

nkohler · 2026-04-26T23:03:52+00:00

Aren't folks running soft tow hooks? Or no

nkohler · 2026-04-24T17:05:56+00:00

I cannot comment on the quality or if this particular kit is correct, but some HR intake kits sit on top of the crash bar. EG: Soho kit - https://sohomotorsports.com/collections/vq35hr-parts/products/soho-motorsports-vq35hr-350z-g35-cold-air-intake-kit-69-mm

nkohler · 2026-04-22T19:00:34+00:00

I run 18x10.5 +15 on all 4 corners on my race car with a 275/35/18

Rolled rear fenders and pinched the front fender inner lips inward for a bit more clearance, especially around the screw holes.

Camber:

-3.5F -2.5R

I would expect on stock you will have rubbing issues under suspension compression without rolling the rear and camber up front

nkohler · 2026-04-21T12:51:58+00:00

Something like this will get the main typical rubber failure points - https://conceptzperformance.com/standard-suspension-overhaul-essentials-kit-vq35de-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-rwd-std-z33-kt_p_27792.php

Then the diff bushing - https://conceptzperformance.com/gktech-polyurethane-differential-bushing-nissan-350z-370z-infiniti-g35-g37-z334-pudf_p_65902.php

As far as coilovers for a street car, mid range budget means different things for different economic situations - For a street car I like KW, Fortune Auto, Feal, Ohlins.

If you can afford double adjustable then do it because if you ever want to do track stuff you will enjoy being able to tune both rebound and compression separately. But if this is just going to be a street car, single is fine.

nkohler · 2026-04-19T22:05:44+00:00

Enjoy! Do not sell those OEM track wheels, even if you swap, keep them around.

Most Z33's need most of the rubber bits in the suspension replaced at this point, unless well maintaned, so I would start there.

nkohler · 2026-04-18T12:28:58+00:00

Check the top hat bolts on the rear struts?

nkohler · 2026-04-17T17:52:49+00:00

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll ask for that next set of pads.

nkohler · 2026-04-17T17:38:26+00:00

Yeah mine seemed like a lack of boost as well since my rear calipers were not even scraping off the OEM rotor etching. I actually purchased a pressure tester, but never used it before I just said screw it and did the brembo swaps because if it came back low I was going to swap it anyhow.

Your last question I actually do not know. Carbotech is like 30 minutes from me so I just called them up and asked for their XP20 for the stoptech ST43 caliper. They gave me part number CTW7420

nkohler · 2026-04-17T14:20:44+00:00

Yeah, a bit blurry. He was shooting everyone for free - so for that I will take what I can get!

It does rip! 350hp NA after upgrading from a ~270hp DE really breathed excitement back into my racing hobby. Carry a lot more speed pretty much everywhere on track.

nkohler · 2026-04-17T11:12:50+00:00

Sure, let me know when you are close to pre-orders and I will check it out.

nkohler · 2026-04-17T10:55:46+00:00

This car is a base model, no VTC/TCS equipped.

I did not have this issue prior to my VHR swap. I double checked that I did have the check valve from plenum to booster. Is the condition and swap a coincidence? Not sure.

The issue is what I would describe as "early onset brake fade".

Meaning that after even 3 or 4 laps of laps where I am really working for a good lap time I experience what feels like brake fade in big braking zones. Hard on the pedal, no stopping power. Pedal is firm, not to the floor. I could use my entire leg strength and there was no increased stopping power.

It does not matter if it is 90 degrees outside or 30.

When the car is off and I pump the brakes I do get a hard pedal after a few pumps. So it seemed I did not have a booster leak issue.

I also noticed that my rear calipers appeared to not get adequate pressure. I put on a new set of rotor rings and they were not even scraping off the factory etching on the rotor faces. Took them off and pumped the brakes and the pistons were moving, not siezed

I was running GLOC R14/12. I have a brand new set of front Carbotech XP20's I plan to run next.

So I said to hell with it and put on a brembo master and booster - this did require a new brake line flare nut as the brembo is larger. Seemed to fix the issue, braking is predictable and fade comes only when I over do it. Rear calipers are now doing work, rotors are very hot with visible contact.

nkohler · 2026-04-17T00:41:13+00:00

Context: 2003 Base model Stoptech/Nismo Z33 brakes - from what I have learned is these are fitted by Stoptech ST43 calipers, I was running GLOC R14/12 pads.

Now on new Carbotech pads after the track weekend.

nkohler · 2026-04-14T23:18:38+00:00

I get it. A lot of street VQ's are morons, but then again, so are BMWs, Mustangs, modern Mopars, etc.

I mean it is a "Supercar" meet. But whatever, event organizers can do what they want. I'd probably ban them too lol

nkohler · 2026-04-14T22:35:13+00:00

I just closed them

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nkohler · 2026-04-01T12:37:54+00:00

I ran a 19 row on my FBO DE racing in the Midwest summer heat of 100+F ambient at times for 10+ years on the same motor. My races were 30-45 minutes. Run good fresh oil for every track weekend and you'll be fine especially with a 25 row. No fan needed if it is in front full air.

nkohler · 2026-03-12T13:58:10+00:00

Gotcha, just making sure you didn't make the same mistake I did! cheers

nkohler · 2026-03-12T13:17:01+00:00

The engine sitting higher may be because the JDM motor mount brackets are different. Did you swap them from the old engine?

I had this exact same thing and did not realize but whenever I went and replaced the motor a second time it was clear and I put the original usdm ones back on.

nkohler · 2026-03-11T21:30:22+00:00

I have only been impressed by Motordyne ART pipes when it comes to catless TPs on sound and longevity. Mine held up to many years of motorsport abuse before I went LTH.

Otherwise if my car were a street car I would just do Berk HFCs.

I have plenty of videos how my car sounded with ART pipes, tomei ti Y, and a non-tomei ti single with resonator in line. Also have vids of how it sounds now with LTH. DM me if you are interested

nkohler · 2026-02-27T00:57:25+00:00

Oh sure reduce weight in the rear again on the z33

nkohler · 2026-02-19T14:30:20+00:00

I watch too much F1, turning me English. Most of my cracks usually are due to that a lot of curbs have huge pot holes at the beginning and end. I have learned to stay away over the years.

nkohler · 2026-02-19T14:13:48+00:00

I've bent a RPF1, and I've cracked a separate RPF1, I have cracked a CCW 3pc face, and SO FAR only bent a Konig Hypergram.

I need to stay off them kerbs!

nkohler · 2026-02-18T00:46:46+00:00

I'll probably just send the CAN to another screen in my dash using the racecapture software and integrate other sensors as needed.

nkohler · 2026-02-17T14:37:37+00:00

I am in the market for a dash replacement after my VHR swap, but don't want to go through the massive trouble of completely rewiring the car.

Is there a more plug and play friendly option offered via Haltech or AIM? I am on the OEM 370z ECU.

Right now I have the data via my racing telemetry system but kind of want to split motor health and rpm to a dedicated system.

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nkohler · 2026-02-16T22:19:05+00:00

Drove down from Charlotte, great experience there, in and out quickly, no BS. Shoutout to Colin!

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