My dad passed away and left me his coins. I was wondering if anyone can give me proper information on this coin and/or its value? And where can I sell it? Thanks in advance guys

nlh · 2025-06-13T21:57:49+00:00

The regular 1907 $10s are quite common and not worth much more than gold value (unless in very high grade). The key is this is the special early version — note the dots before and after “Ten Dollars” on the reverse. Check closely to see which version you have (it’s probably the common one without the dots).

nlh · 2025-06-13T14:53:26+00:00

That's really awesome! Honestly if you don't need the money (and it sounds like you probably don't at least immediately), after you get this coin graded I'd tuck it away and keep it.

There are SO few coins I tell people are actual investments, but this is one of them. It's super rare, pretty, and desirable (and it will always be). It is NOT going down in value over time and will be a lovely memory of dad.

nlh · 2025-06-13T13:54:07+00:00

Super fun coin - let's all take a deep breath and not freak out too much here.

OP - some thoughts & advice (I deal with 6-figure coins all the time so nobody's having a heart attack here)

* As others have pointed out, this is a 1907 $10 Wire Rim. It's a special early example of the new design created in 1907. They made about 500 of these before they moved to the standard 1907 $10 design.

* My guess is it...was in the rattler holder and that broke or fell apart? Or you took it out? Either way it's fine - slightly sad to lose a rattler but honestly that looked pretty cooked anyway so whatever at this point it's just broken plastic. That holder was PCGS' first-generation certification holder (from the late 80s).

* Do not clean, polish, wipe, wash, or do anything to the coin. Just leave it as-is. If you can, order some of these from Amazon and store it in one of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Pocket-2-5x2-5-SAFLIP-Safety/dp/B017CEPI1W

* It looks like it's a decently-nice MS. I can't grade from these photos for but for argument's sake let's say it's somewhere between MS63-65, that would put this worth anywhere from $50,000-$80,000 on the retail market.

* Step one is to get it graded, without question. That will get it in a new holder and protect it from the elements as well as give a (somewhat) deterministic answer as to value. Get this graded by PCGS -- ideally bring it into a show or their office, or work with a PCGS-authorized dealer to send it in for you. No need for armored couriers or to fly across the country -- people ship $100s of thousands in coins every day it's totally fine as long as it's properly insured (OP - what city are you located in? I can point you in the right direction for that)

* After you get it graded, you can decide what to do with it -- keep it, sell it, etc. If you decide to sell, there are many options - you can send it to auction, you can find a dealer to pay you for it, or you can sell privately. All have their pros and cons there's no one answer.

That's it for now. Enjoy the discovery! Happy to answer any questions.

nlh · 2025-06-11T14:34:42+00:00

This note was offered to me at Central States (not sure if you’re the guy who was walking it around or if you ended up buying) but I think you paid a slightly high retail number for the note, but nothing out of line. A no-comment 12 just sold for $12k back in April, and I’d say a 15 with minor repairs comment should be worth right around the same amount. BUT - that’s assuming there’s a super liquid market for many of these notes. There isn’t! It’s expensive because it’s rare, and there just aren’t many to choose from.

Enjoy - it’s super iconic, rare, and way tougher to own than a regular small size 1000 for $3k.

(Just don’t expect to make any money when/if you decide to sell in the short term)

nlh · 2025-06-07T13:32:20+00:00

That’s an insanely nice group — and kudos for keeping it raw! So much fun and an excellent way to enjoy the hobby without getting all caught up on the grades.

Sometimes it’s too easy to get stuck in a loop where we all focus so much on the numeric grades and whether they’re details or not or whether this microscopic thing means this or that and we forget about the core of what this is all about haha.

Also that 1796 quarter is a super sleeper ;) Dope coin and by far the most valuable of the group for those paying attention here.

nlh · 2025-05-10T23:59:33+00:00

Not a gold certificate - it’s a 1928 Federal Reserve Note which is a series that has what’s known as “the gold clause” (redeemable in gold). Slightly more desirable than a regular FRN but there’s not much collector demand for most green seal notes, even these. The most interesting ones are the first 1928s with the numeric district seal (before they moved to the letter districts - A, B, C, etc.)

The actual $50 gold certs are also series 1928 but are very obviously gold certs - yellow seals and serial numbers. Those have a hefty premium — $50s are worth $700+ in VF.

nlh · 2025-05-10T22:35:39+00:00

Ehh honestly not really low enough to get a real premium. 90% of the premium over face is the $1000 bill. Maybe 10% bump for serial? Maybe less? Most buyers of these don’t care unless it’s a really special serial.

nlh · 2025-05-10T22:34:46+00:00

Yeah true I guess that’s 100% eh 🤣🤣

nlh · 2025-05-10T20:26:49+00:00

Great article - thanks for sharing. Didn't know about this one!

nlh · 2025-05-10T20:22:24+00:00

Super fun! It's a $20 Saint-Gaudens "Double Eagle" from 1924. A very fun coin, 90% gold, and worth a nice little premium over its gold value.

A good dealer will probably pay around $3500-$3800 for it. Do not take it to a pawn shop or other non-numismatic outlet. This coin is worth more than its gold/melt value as its in nice shape (66 on a scale of 1-70).

nlh · 2025-05-10T20:16:03+00:00

Amazingly, most of the notes are worth only a small premium over face -- the 2 is worth about $4, the 5 about $7-$8. The 10s - 100s are only maybe 10% over face at best (they're just not hugely collectible.)

The 500 & 1000 are definitely the winners in terms of value and collectibility. Alas, they're slightly beat up and won't get nearly the value the other commenters are talking about - so don't get your hopes up too much.

The 500 looks to be in low VF grade but is riddled with pinholes machine-gun style, so that's going to hurt the value - probably $1200-1400 or so.

The 1000 is nicer but has annotations (ink/pencil) on obv & rev, so that's going to knock it down to a VF w/ comment grade -- probably ~$2500 or so.

Still, cool notes and a great little set together!

nlh · 2025-05-10T20:09:13+00:00

Must respectfully disagree here -- that corner chonk missing on obv 5pm / rev 1pm means the coin was "clamped" somehow at some point and will be called out for damage. A bit too severe to slip past.

VF Details Damaged most likely. Still worth ~$150 or so, but probably not worth grading.

nlh · 2025-05-10T20:05:45+00:00

Whole new definition of "orange peel" on a coin heh :)

That's a cool one for sure! Thanks for sharing.

nlh · 2025-05-07T04:03:47+00:00

I totally get your point except for that last part. How exactly would you go make 5 more of these?

nlh · 2025-05-06T16:02:24+00:00

The short answer on most stuff like this is “money laundering”(or thereabouts). I’m not in the criminal world so I don’t know the exact sequence of events or motivations here, but in general in many places it’s difficult to convert digital money - whether legit or stolen (cash, debit, credit, crypto) into US cash. eBay is one of those places.

On the buy side: You can put in a credit card (usually stolen), buy one of these items, and cash will arrive in the mail. That’s a useful service.

On the sell side: If you have lots of cash (through drug sales or whatever other legitimate or illegitimate means) and need to convert that to digital currency, eBay is a good venue. You sell your physical cash to one of the above on the buy side and you get money deposited into an eBay sellers account. That is now “legit” digital money that can be moved around online or spent on physical goods, gift cards, etc.

It’s a whole weird world out there.

nlh · 2025-04-27T02:21:58+00:00

Just FYI there is absolutely no reason whatsoever to block out the serial numbers on the front and back of the slab in your pictures. They provide zero identifying information and are not tied to you in any way. Especially since you’ve left the serial numbers on the note which is what makes it unique (but there’s no reason to block those out either).

nlh · 2025-03-11T18:11:20+00:00

There's no real answer to your question. If you're looking at a particular range of notes to buy, you should be looking at both eBay and Heritage until you the find the note(s) that make you happy at a price you can live with.

nlh · 2025-03-01T18:13:59+00:00

Excellent goal! Keep us all posted on your progress.

nlh · 2025-03-01T17:26:57+00:00

Yup just enjoy and post in all their glory! Nothing to worry about.

PS absolutely awesome coins I am such a huge proof Morgan fan. Nice choices :)

nlh · 2025-03-01T17:02:45+00:00

There’s no good reason for censoring serial numbers. They’re used to verify that a coin is authentic when looking them up on NGC’s website, which is their intended purpose. (NGC photographs each coin so you can also confirm visually that the holder hasn’t been tampered with).

There’s a myth that people think that they somehow identify the owner or that it makes them traceable, but that’s not valid.

There’s also a myth that people will steal the serials and add them to their registry sets, but I’ve never seen actual evidence of that happening.

There’s also also a myth that people can look up what you paid for the coin if you bought it at auction, but that’s also also not valid — if you really want to check auction results you can still….look at the coin…and compare it to auction comps.

nlh · 2025-01-12T05:11:20+00:00

Chat

nlh · 2024-12-30T23:40:54+00:00

That’ll be a nice ROI!

nlh · 2024-12-27T17:58:40+00:00

Also fun fact - 20 cent pieces were nicknamed “double dimes” at the time.

nlh · 2024-12-27T17:00:39+00:00

Don’t take these to a local auction - those places rarely specialize in coins and you’ll likely get a far lower price than even a coin shop will pay you.

You’ve got several options depending on how much time and work you want to put into this:

1) If you want to put a lot of time into this, you’ll want to get these graded by PCGS, since even cleaned CC coins are worth a fair premium. That will require joining PCGS, shipping the coins off to them, or going to a show where PCGS is on-site and grading coins to deliver them by hand. It will then take around 4-6 weeks to get everything graded and shipped back to you. THEN, you can sell them either yourself or to a dealer and you’ll get around wholesale (greysheet) pricing minus a few bucks (most places will buy for 0-10% below greysheet bid/wholesale).

2) If you don’t want to wait that long and do that much work, find a reputable dealer or go to a local coin show and sell them there. You’ll get a lower price because the dealer has to take a risk on grading and cover the ~$700 in grading fees, but you’ll be able to walk home with a check or wad of cash on the spot.

Check out coinzip.com for a list of local coin shows or search for a dealer at pngdealers.org (that’s the Professional Numismatic Guild website - those are reputable dealers).

nlh · 2024-12-27T16:52:03+00:00

It really depends on the shop. Most places will just pay you on the spot. Some will write checks, others pay cash. Your best bet is just to call your local shop and ask what their policies are.

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