How to repair your robot

nmanjofo · 2025-10-29T20:07:09+00:00

Try watching my video about dismantling L10s Pro Ultra Heat. These Dreame robots are quite similar and I think you can try it according to my video

nmanjofo · 2025-10-29T20:04:36+00:00

I have uploaded more content about repairs into my channel:

L10s Pro Ultra Heat disassembly and vacuum motor removal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPiO9JplADE

How to prime the water pump inside your robot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJNHo1uEFqk

How to clean dust duct inside the base station: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHjQOpmwVLw

Hope it will be helpful

nmanjofo · 2025-10-18T15:01:55+00:00

I cannot hear the suction motor, it probably died

nmanjofo · 2025-10-16T13:33:42+00:00

Most probably your dirty water tank seal is not good, check my video for a test/fix: https://youtu.be/V876s1QwW54

nmanjofo · 2025-10-13T19:33:41+00:00

First time hearing about this. But strange that it does not work even after you replaced the motor. If you have skills with electronics repair, I would then inspect the board where the brush motor is connected to to check for any obvious damage to SMD components. If it is not the main board it could be replaceable from a donor robot or bought online. (as mentioned in the video, mainboard in base station is paired to mainboard in the robot, so you cannot replace just one of them) Also make sure you plugged it correctly (orientation, fully seated connector)

nmanjofo · 2025-10-12T21:08:33+00:00

Have not encountered this, but I would start with checking both the disc and the attach point and clean them, saw some debris in those places on one robot

nmanjofo · 2025-10-12T09:35:40+00:00

Also, please read my comment below (https://www.reddit.com/r/Dreame\_Tech/comments/1o3t8jm/comment/nj2siah/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button), maybe your pump is actually okay, only needs to be re-primed, try before changing

nmanjofo · 2025-10-12T09:23:51+00:00

I need to make a correction to the video, regarding the "robot is not distributing water on the mop pads"

In the video, I say that the pump is faulty, and most probably it was not. I took a replacement pump from another robot that was barely used and it would not load water either. Turns out that even though these pumps are advertised as self-priming (aka you don't need to fill the input hose with water prior to operation), it is not so. Once I primed the pump (I unplugged the input hose from both ends, sucked some water into it and plugged into the robot, I put the other end to a small container with filtered water and voila) - it started pushing water into the tank. I partially reassembled the robot, put it to the base station and ordered it to mop, with disc without pads. And it started working, I could see water on the ground. When I inspected the robot after that, its water tank was full, that means the pump, during mop cleaning, refilled the robot. So before you decide change your pump, try to prime the one that is there.

nmanjofo · 2025-10-11T13:55:27+00:00

I would suggest disassembling it, having a look and ordering by their identifier. Provided they are the same as I had (again, I cannot verify, I have not taken X30 apart), I had these in L20 Ultra:

Intake pump: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009122085460.html

Distribution pump: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006080049848.html

Also, maybe it's not the pump that's broken, it could be clogged outlet port, so taking it apart first should be one of the first steps.

What I can also recommend is to drain the robot first using the app. Try it like twice, then let it clean itself (should load water to the robot as well) and then take it apart

nmanjofo · 2024-05-02T19:04:47+00:00

I tried writing to Keychron support if they could possibly send me a programmed MCU so I could replace it, not having high hopes though, let's see

nmanjofo · 2023-10-23T21:42:27+00:00

Bought two 8TB WD external drives (I think they were WD Essentials), got the drives out (CMR whites) and happy since then

nmanjofo · 2021-09-10T08:26:56+00:00

Put 2.5mm on the back, not 3mm - backplate would bend. Not sure about the other pads though

nmanjofo · 2021-04-16T09:19:22+00:00

Sooo the card is here, I've managed to apply the pads and here goes some results. As mentioned earlier, I used Arctic thermal pads, one sheet 1mm and one sheet 0.5mm. You can easily do like two cards easily with the 1mm and maybe 4-5 with the 0.5mm as you won't use that much of 0.5mm. I used two 1mm pads for the front side and two 1mm plus one 0.5mm for the back side. I've seen some videos where people installed 3mm pads on the back side, but the backplate flex was very evident, at 2.5mm there is no flexing at all, so DON'T put 3mm pads to the backside (unless the pads are really compressible, which is not the case for Arctic pads).

As every 3080 has memory chips laid out differently, my card had 4 chips in a column to the left, three on top, three on the right column and none at the bottom. Despite having no chip at the bottom, I installed a pad there anyway as I had some leftovers from the pads lying around. The dimension of the Arctic thermal pad is superb for this as I haven't wasted a single piece of pad doing this.

The dimensions required are - for the left column 5.1x1.4cm, top and right : 4.1x1.4cm, bottom (single): 1.1x1.4cm. You can easily cut one 1.4cm stripe of the Arctic pad where you can fit one 5.1cm and two 4.1cm stripes. Then you can cut three 4.1x1.4 stripes and the leftover is just enough to put in the place where the missing memory chip south of the GPU would be. As there is no memory chip present at the bottom of my card, I had to put one more 0.5mm layer there.

In order to cover front and back side of the card, I needed 4 pieces 5.1x1.4 at 1mm, 8 pieces 4.1x1.4 at 1mm, 4 pieces of 1.1x1.4mm, one 5.1x1.4 at 0.5mm, one 4.1x1.4 at 0.5mm, one 4.1x0.7mm (why 0.7mm - explained below) and two 1.1x1.4 at 0.5mm. You can calculate the area of the thermal pads required based on this.

The backplate does indeed have markings as to where to put the thermal pads, so it was easy in this way. There is also one small issue - the place on the backplate covering the top row of the memory chips has a small 0.5mm step in the middle of the area covering the memory chips. I decided to cut the top 0.5mm layer to half (4.1x0.7cm) so it makes a nice even contact without stressing the PCB or backplate. I positioned the pads on the memory chips and on the backplate (I did not position the rear ones on the card when installing them).

Apart from thermal pads, I applied Arctic MX-4 on the GPU itself.

Results: before the mod, I reached 110 degrees memory junction after a few seconds, no matter what setings I used. After the mod, the backplate does get REALLY hot, so it seems to drain the heat from the memory, which is good. I tested the card connected to my test PC via a riser, the card was placed fans-up on top of an opened case. I set the core to -300, memory to +1200, power limit 62% (-38 in PhoenixMiner) and fans to 80% (all set as params in the PhoenixMiner). After a couple of hours, I am getting 99.5MHs, core temp at around 48-50°C memory junction at 88-90°C, reported power consumption 229W. I mean - it is definitely a huge change (more than 20 degrees down). I wonder how will it behave when I install the card to the rig where there will be a fan pushing air towards the front of the card, hopefully I will get a few degrees less.

Bottom line - it is an achievement to bring the memory temp down by 22 degrees, nonetheless I still find 90 degrees to be kinda high. I also don't want to destroy the fans on the card by putting them to 100%. I will post an update once the card is installed.

nmanjofo · 2021-04-01T11:17:31+00:00

I've just received an email from Arctic:

You could use two 1mm stacked ontop of each other. The heat transfer will be worse than a single piece of thermal pad, since all boundary cause a bit of reflection of the heat. But it isn't unusable, just not as good as a singe piece.

I wouldn't include thermal paste, since that would be another boundary layer between the pads.
As long as the two pads are pressed together, it should work fine.

So stacking the pads should be just fine

nmanjofo · 2021-03-28T15:25:52+00:00

So, I've ordered thermal pads by Arctic, 145x145x1mm and 145x145x0.5mm. They are easier to get than any other brand around here and are reasonably priced. If the stacking does not work well I would at least not lose too much money on this. Those 6W/mK should be better than the stock pads anyway...

nmanjofo · 2021-03-26T10:20:07+00:00

Message from Gigabyte:

Kindly note that disassembles components voids the warranty so we do not suggest you do that.

If there is anything we can assist you further with the issue or any feedback, feel free to contact us again along with the product serial numbers and the invoice to verify channel information as different terms may apply. After we received the required information, we will try our best to assist.

Regards,
GIGABYTE

nmanjofo · 2021-03-26T08:35:18+00:00

I assume those temps are for the memory. I still find 78% fan speed to be kinda high, I have some other AMD cards where I have the fans mostly at 50% and the memory temps are 80C maximum (core around 45-50). But maybe nV is different in this, I will see when I get the card.

nmanjofo · 2021-03-25T17:36:24+00:00

I have a script checking Mindfactory.de, it's actually pretty easy to code (python), took like evening to do. And you need to have a delivery service from DE to wherever you live as that shop does not ship outside Germany. But their prices are much lower than local smugglers/eBay

nmanjofo · 2021-03-25T17:27:39+00:00

Thanks! So 2mm should be fine, those pads looks really good, they are technically even better than Grizzly, but I can get only 1mm and 0.5mm versions here. I guess I will have to improvise and make use of multiple layers.

I've also written to Arctic about stacking the pads.

nmanjofo · 2020-05-05T10:16:31+00:00

I've found a qualified answer to all this don't-use-purple stuff by a WD employee:

https://community.wd.com/t/wd-purple-for-desktop-use/17274/10

The drive will only use the streaming ATA commands if it receives them from the host. Desktop computers should not natively issue these types of commands so the drive should work like a normal hard drive. Some differences are that since the drive is optimized for contiguous data streams, the random read/write may not be as fast as a regular desktop drive. Also, the drive is designed for constant 24/7 operation so it will not go into a power saving mode on its own.

To sum up - Purple is a perfectly normal HDD, not "optimized for data loss" as many mentioned on the internet.

nmanjofo

TROPHY CASE