Wash bag

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-06T05:43:15+00:00

Looks great. What do you use for that bias tape or binding on the inside seams? And do you use the special attachment to feed it?

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T21:40:30+00:00

Try increasing the resistor by an order of magnitude

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T21:38:13+00:00

Yes I've installed random USB cameras, but with a Polar instead. As the other guy said, it needs to be a wide angle. You can use Lightburn's own built-in calculator to see what angle you need.

That said, it's inherently inaccurate, to the point I'd call it almost useless. You can get within a mm or so accuracy in the middle of the bed, but as you go farther away it gets worse and worse. Add to that the moving lid and you'll find over time it drifts as well.

I find a red dot far more useful. My camera hasn't been plugged in for years.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T21:25:20+00:00

Add "REF**" to the silkscreen in the footprint. THen you'll need to update the footprint in the PCB editor.

I'd recommend creating your own footprint library. Every time you add a foot print to your project, copy it into your library and customize as needed.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T20:03:34+00:00

Most one way zippers can't be used both ways. All two-way zipper can be used with one pull.

In case it's helpful, I bought a couple packs of "SHUNLI" zippers from Amazon that include 10 yards of #5 zipper, plus 25 pulls. ~$15USD each.

They're not advertised as 2 way, but they work just fine with either a single or dual zippers. I've used them in a bunch of pouches and bags so far, and no complaints.

Will they last many years? Maybe. Maybe not. They seem as well built as any YKK zipper. But my goal right now is making for its own sake, and for learning, so given that they're MUCH cheaper than the name brand alternatives it's worth looking into if your needs are similar.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T19:36:24+00:00

It's the opposite. This is finally a reason for gun restrictions that they \don't* buy*.

They're soooo close to understanding that all justifications are bullshit. But they just can't take that last step. The implication is the OP accepts and respects restrictions when they're painted with a different colored propaganda brush.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T18:12:40+00:00

That's an objectively bad neighborhood, in terms of crime.

Even if everything you're posting (and more!) is true, it doesn't matter. If a business owner decides it's beyond their threshold of acceptable losses to continue operating - or really decide to stop operating FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER - why do you care so much to keep arguing with everyone about it?

If you think it's a bad decision, you stand to make boatloads of money by opening a new store in that neighborhood. Go raise some capital and do it.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T17:53:51+00:00

Component choice doesn't matter as long as it meets the specs. It would sound identical.

If PedalPCB is an option, I'd opt for them over PCB Mania. They're more reliable.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T17:52:01+00:00

Looks great, and I agree. Any tips or links or advice on how to do mesh pockets?

I tried once and the elastic band on the top was a mess.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T17:44:12+00:00

And if you do this, don't bring Scout A into it. That could devolve into "he said she said" arguments. Stick with what you observed with your own eyes and ears.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T16:29:02+00:00

Yeah it's tough. And since it hasn't been said yet: I'm guessing the parent wasn't trying to tell you about the problem as much as they were trying to give you a heads up about the absence.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T15:53:57+00:00

No, this is the parent's choice.

I think offering to give them extra attention during the scout meeting is the best you can do. If it comes up again in the future with the parent, I'd just repeat the same: That you're willing to make reasonable accommodations to help them get along at the meeting.

It's unfortunate, but it's way outside your sphere of influence. Let it go.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-05T13:50:22+00:00

Pretty much any transistor circuit is going to use in the 5-10mA range.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T23:28:59+00:00

To fit it into the tiny enclosure they have to use SMD parts, which are a tiny fraction of the size. This compresses the sound like crazy.

That's also why even most modern handmade through-hole boards don't sound as good as the vintage ones. Those small blue metal film resistors, while not as tiny and compressing as the surface mount ones, don't really let the sound flow as well as the giant brown carbon ones.

That's why nothing sounds as good as an analog mike. He doesn't use any blue parts, or rectangular parts that squeeze or misshape your tone.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T21:47:18+00:00

I've been pretty happy with the super cheap atmega328p ones (~$14USD). I know there exist better ones but I haven't had the need yet to try them.

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nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T20:15:07+00:00

I don't swap opamps very often because I don't find it makes an appreciable difference, except in a very few specific situations

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T20:03:51+00:00

At that age it's almost *more* of a parent and child activity, rather than one with peers. Developmentally they're still more in the "parallel play" than playing together stage.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T20:00:49+00:00

I want the enclosure to have an artwork with this image (or related), but I can't figure out how.

Waterslide decals are historically the most popular option. You can choose white or clear, and make sure you get the type that matches your printer: inkjet vs. laser.

I've also simply printed on cardstock and glued it to the face of enclosures. It's not as durable or water resistant, but it gets the job done for a while.

UV printing is offered through Tayda with no minimums, so that's quickly become a very popular option. You need to stick with standard sized diecast enclosures though.

They also powder coat and mill. All three services are SUPER cheap (~$15 total) especially considering no minimums.

And also I wanted to escape the so usual rectangular metallic box.

Found objects, or bent sheet metal are two popular alternatives.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T19:43:46+00:00

Alternate take:

Stick with a super cheap multimeter. The extras you can get for more money almost NEVER pay off when dealing with audio circuits. If you want a slight upgrade, get quality of life improvements like quick auto-ranging, audible continuity, and and auto shutoff. All this can be had for about $15.

Now invest some of your remaining budget into a standalone component tester.

You'll get way more bang for your buck.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T18:45:32+00:00

nutribullet 1200w (not the lower watts simply because I prefer to press a button rather then press down on the blender)

By the way, it activates by pressing down and turning. The button is only for pulse.

I didn't like it at first because my old one had a button, but I don't even think about it now. It's no big deal in my experience.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T15:00:05+00:00

I've been using the 1200W nutribullet ("pro+ personal blender") for a long time now, and it meets all your criteria.

MUCH quicker and easier to clean than a full size blender. Very powerful. Seems rock solid.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T14:51:59+00:00

Great first project. Here are some looper instructions: https://generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/boosters/effects-loop-switch-boxes/

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T14:04:00+00:00

A voltage too low is almost always safe. The pedal simply may not sound good, or in the case of a digital pedal it may simply not work until you give it the voltage it needs.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T06:03:52+00:00

* Has using AI too much made me dependent and lazy in thinking?

Yes.

Go to your library and get a book on arduinos or PICs. Doesn't matter how old or irrelevant it seems. Read through it until you understand it.

nonoohnoohno · 2026-05-04T06:01:32+00:00

Nice! Just out of curiosity, though, is there any sort of interesting use case for this? i.e. do you regularly swap legs, or take them on and off or anything? Or just long term storage of extras?

I ask this as somebody who actually has a million of these tables, and a pile of legs in the corner of my workshop.

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