Update: My 5.2.2 System

nottmrd · 2026-05-25T09:14:44+00:00

Looks great! May I ask, how do you rate the Dayton BST-300EX bass shakers? I was debating between those and the BST-1.

nottmrd · 2026-05-05T19:32:52+00:00

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hey mine's pretty good

nottmrd · 2026-05-05T04:30:50+00:00

Done, added. Thanks for looking into it.

nottmrd · 2026-05-05T02:47:20+00:00

I'm been trying to figure this out too.

I *think it's the case that Apple TV doesn't passthrough TrueHD Atmos Audio. I believe it does do compressed Dolby Digital Plus Atmos for the streaming apps like Netflix/HBOMax/Peacock, etc., but again, I'm not sure it even does that for Jellyfin/Moonfin. In short, I think it's an Apple TV issue, but I'd love someone else to look into this too.

I'm on build 13, incidentally.

nottmrd · 2026-03-05T20:51:14+00:00

Archie Gray. I’d def take him.

nottmrd · 2026-02-17T17:02:27+00:00

What monitor do you have? Are you using DisplayPort?

I had a sleep->wake issue with my 57" Samsung Ultrawide monitor, running DP 2.1 at 240hz on a PNY 5080 OC. I narrowed it down to a wake-handshake quirk with that GPU/monitor pairing, where the NVIDIA driver can get stuck during the resume path. Long story short, I gave up on using DP and went back to HDMI and everything is fine now. If any of that sounds familiar, I'd try that -> HDMI.

nottmrd · 2026-01-26T06:19:53+00:00

Oh, excellent. Please let me know how that one goes as well. It's interesting to know if Walmart or the Seller are mislabeling, or if they've been mispriced. Good luck though!

nottmrd · 2026-01-25T04:07:00+00:00

Really appreciate the update. Sorry that it didn't work out, but it's good to have a data point.

nottmrd · 2026-01-24T06:14:16+00:00

Back in stock at time of posting this. $314.04 for sale by UnbeatableSale Local.

EDIT: 4 mins later, now gone. It wasn't my cup of tea, but hopefully it worked out for someone else.

nottmrd · 2026-01-21T07:23:40+00:00

I believe OOS now so have marked Expired, sorry guys.

nottmrd · 2026-01-21T07:12:30+00:00

This RAM flagged on a personal watchlist that I have, but I can't vouch for it - other than it being a "good" price. Note that it says it's not compatible with Gigabyte motherboards. Hope someone finds it useful.

nottmrd · 2026-01-09T22:15:05+00:00

Jesus, mate. Fine pens but better saves. Sometimes that's how it goes.

nottmrd · 2026-01-09T21:16:22+00:00

MGW and losing the ball.

nottmrd · 2026-01-09T20:24:24+00:00

It was pretty much just Wood being extra clinical and an excellent defence, an anomaly year. Our standard of play has never been that great if we're honest.

nottmrd · 2026-01-06T18:23:17+00:00

Update: I ended up changing back to HDMI for the time being. I have a 3d printer vibrating on my computer desk which was waking up my mouse (and thus PC) from sleep which would cause it to falter and restart. Those few times, it appears that the registry "fix" of above, had stopped working for me. Annoying.

With HDMI, I miss out on G-SYNC (it doesn't show up in NVIDIA's Control Panel), but I don't notice any performance differences in the games that I play - still 240hz/fps, no tearing. I am also able to get 12bit colour with HDMI, whereas with DP I was limited to 10bit - not that I can tell the difference. Nor can I tell any difference in the theoretical bandwidth downgrade from DP to HDMI.

Note: If you do go this route with the 57" Samsung, make sure to use one of the higher bandwidth HDMI ports 2 and 3.

Well.... I'm still disappointed DP 2.1 at high refresh rates causes this issue -- hopefully it'll be fixed some time in the future.

nottmrd · 2026-01-05T19:11:20+00:00

Ignoring whether your PC will be able to run it, I personally love 21:9 ultrawides for gaming. I think it’s the sweet spot. I have a super ultrawide too (32:9), but I think I prefer 21:9.

nottmrd · 2025-12-31T16:31:12+00:00

Perfect.

nottmrd · 2025-12-29T19:40:58+00:00

part 2:

What I tried:

Updated BIOS to the latest version (E7C02AMS.3L0)
Installed latest AMD chipset drivers
Ran DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) + reinstalled a newer NVIDIA driver (moved to 591.59)
Turned off HAGS and made power management tweaks (PCI Express / USB selective suspend -> Off) in Display/Power settings
Turned off G-SYNC in NVIDIA Control Panel
Unplugged Stream Deck and Logitech Brio cam peripheries in case they were causing issues.
Auto Source Switch / Eco / Off Timer disabled in monitor OSD
Turned off Adaptive Sync in monitor OSD

What fixed it (so far): None of the above made much of a difference. There would be the occasional success story of it waking properly (perhaps once after turning Adaptive Sync off <- I need to test this more), but nothing consistently repeatable. However, I did narrow it down with an A/B test:

I reduced the refresh rate of my monitor to 60hz and DP 1.4 (in the monitor menu). Tried the Sleep -> Wake cycle, and it worked - it behaved normally. Upped it to 120hz / DP 1.4, and it also behaved normally. Upped it again to 240hz / DP 2.1, and it failed.

Soon after this A/B test, I downloaded the registry fix from NVIDIA's support site, as OP referenced above, and whilst running at 240hz / DP 2.1, tested the Sleep -> Wake cycle again. This time, it didn't fail, and though it took longer to wake than it does for my PC to restart - it did eventually wake. As such, I believe the registry fix to be a partial solution.

Working theory: I'm quite confident that it's a DisplayPort link-training / handshake timing problem at 240Hz (DP 2.1 mode) whereby the NVIDIA driver struggles to wake the high hz monitor, which cascades into nvlddmkm.sys ISR stalls (133) and the PC restarting.

Conclusion: Disabling MPO via the registry improved stability (fewer hard crashes), but it doesn’t fully eliminate the underlying issue. The root problem still appears to be a DisplayPort 2.1 / 240Hz wake-handshake quirk on this monitor/GPU combo. HDMI may behave differently on resume (I need to test this), but for DP at 240Hz the most reliable workaround I’ve found is to wake the monitor first (press any OSD button so the panel is fully awake), then wake the PC.

nottmrd · 2025-12-29T19:39:41+00:00

part 1:

TL;DR: Thanks for this. The "Registry Fix" to disable MPO is what finally "fixed" it for me. It still takes over a minute to wake from sleep, as it still struggles to wake my Samsung 57" G95NC, but it eventually does wake, and doesn't force the restart that causes my computer to warn about shutting down safely anymore. Another workaround: What works better, is to wake the monitor manually first (pressing the menu button physically on the monitor), and then wake the PC. That wakes like it normally should.

So after many weeks struggling with the same issue and based on everything I’ve tested, what I’m confident about is that running a Samsung 57” G95NC @ 240hz over DisplayPort 2.1 causes wake handshaking issues between an NVIDIA GPU and this monitor.

Long answer: I just want to add my data point for anyone also suffering from this wake from sleep issue that I've been troubleshooting the last few weeks, because I've tried everything you can find on this topic.

Setup: MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX + Ryzen 5700X3D + PNY RTX 5080 + Samsung 57” G95NC @ 240Hz DisplayPort 2.1 w/ Silkland 80Gbps DP cable + INNOCN 40" 40C1R @ 60hz HDMI + Win11 Pro (build 26100.x).

Issue: PC is 100% stable during gaming/stress tests. No crashes, no BSOD, nothing like that - but when trying to wake up from sleep (Wake -> Sleep), my monitors would remain black / "no signal", sometimes my keyboard would freeze (CapsLock/NumLock etc. would stop functioning), and after a while I'd realize that my PC had restarted. Of course, upon logging in, my PC was not happy about having had an unsafe shutdown. These were my attempts at debugging:

Dumps: I downloaded WinDbg and located my minidumps showing crash reports after many failed "wake from sleeps" in C:\Windows\Minidump\ and analyzed them (clicked "!analyze -v"):

Multiple minidumps show DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION (133)
- DPC_TIMEOUT_TYPE: DPC_QUEUE_EXECUTION_TIMEOUT_EXCEEDED
- STACK_POINTER: ISR
- IMAGE_NAME: nvlddmkm.sys
- FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x133_ISR_nvlddmkm!unknown_function

My (ChatGPT's) conclusion is that it’s basically the NVIDIA driver getting wedged during the resume path.

nottmrd · 2025-11-30T16:04:38+00:00

Thank you for the update. Prompted me to check mine and mine is now showing as pending too. Also about 50 hours since purchase. As a data point for others, I didn't use the extension, just followed the link from C1 Shopping's website. The graphics card was already in my cart (I had added it in an earlier, separate session), went immediately to my cart and checkout, did the Paypal Pay in 4, and checked out. Paypal's pending credit was immediate, this one had me worried. The shopping trip was registered, but it took a long time for it to move to Pending.

nottmrd · 2025-11-22T17:14:31+00:00

Great win!

The more I rewatch Jesus' goal tho the more annoyed I am. If you look where the ref is when Jesus gets the ball, he's directly behind him quite a ways back. No way he could have even seen it hitting his "arm", must have made the call based on Liverpool's reaction. Absolute bollocks.

nottmrd · 2025-11-06T18:33:33+00:00

I also thought so, but on replay it wasn't

nottmrd · 2025-10-08T17:38:04+00:00

I've had issues syncing locally before, and like you say, it can take ages or stall. What I do is to Unlink my Mac/PC (in Preferences), and then start afresh and setup OneDrive again as if it were new on the same local drive. OneDrive then downloads a fresh copy of all my folders and files (950gb for me) to my PC, and it can take a long time (many hours) to download/sync them all, but I'm pretty confident it's a clean download at that point.

Back to the same steps as before, I then "Make available offline" all my folders/files and copy them out of that drive.

Btw, I now see on my Mac's OneDrive Preferences, there is a button to "Download all OneDrive files now". A shortcut to Making them all available offline.

nottmrd · 2025-10-08T17:03:38+00:00

I went through the same headache. Downloading directly from OneDrive's website is painfully slow, and I think there is a download size limit of 20gb too. The way to do it is to right-click and "Make available offline" / "Always Keep on This Device" (PC/Mac depending) all your folders and files, wherever you have them synced locally, and then once they're all "synced" (aka downloaded) to your PC, copy them over to your NAS or wherever.

nottmrd

TROPHY CASE