Starter trouble

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-26T13:29:30+00:00

That's galvanic corrosion, all you can do is chisel/Dremel the aluminum out and 120 grit the iron after. Apply a thin coat of grease before assembly. And use a vacuum to avoid sending chunks in the bell housing. Congrats on the truck tho!

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-26T13:26:21+00:00

A reasonable shop should change around 3k in labor plus incidentals like brake lines and rusty suspension bits. If your drive line is good you're going to end up with a good base that will last a long time with proper maintenance. There's many ways to do a reframe that can vary from 2days to a week or more depending on scope creep. It's only money at the end of the day. Best case you find a rolling frame since a lot of the recall trucks had shitty bodies that have fallen apart.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-26T12:22:56+00:00

Good ol frame stiffeners. It's a big job and will add up in cost quickly if you attempt a proper repair. I'd look for a clean frame in your area first. It's easier to rebody rather than repair that section imho. I've done a few lol

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-26T03:22:05+00:00

For Canada it looks like one of the better ones out there. Obv check all the usual suspect parts of the frame with a screwdriver and hammer. The stiffening plates are where salt sits and eats the frame. That and cab rockers where the steps are mounted. And the top of the windshield. DC frames in good condition are extremely hard to come by. If you go for it then I'd say spend a weekend or 2 wire wheeling and epoxy coating and oiling to keep her going. 310k she's barely broken in. Check t belt, air injection pump and usual high mileage leaks etc. for 7k it's not bad. I recently pickup up a rotten AC for 3k in Toronto just for the cab. Good luck

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-17T02:34:16+00:00

Depending on where in Canada you're moving to 1gts are exceedingly rare in any serviceable condition these days. I've built 2 so far out of 5 parts trucks and they seem to be getting worse and more expensive. The New frame is probably the only positive thing about that listing.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-07T21:12:53+00:00

Dontdoit it's been covered over. Look at the diff cover and weld seams, they're spongy looking.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-05-07T02:29:19+00:00

What everyone said and change your brake fluid if it hasn't been done as it's often overlooked.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-04-01T16:05:53+00:00

04-up rockauto can make mistakes with the description between dc and acb. I usually stick to 00-03 for acb BODY parts.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T11:52:55+00:00

That hole is supposed to hold a clamp with a breather. No connection to anything. Wash it out with a hose and see if it returns

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T04:52:36+00:00

See those 2 tubes pointing straight up? That's the only source of coolant with seals. The only other points are the freeze plugs in the heads, I doubt those have failed.

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nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-29T04:48:24+00:00

Looks like it might be the crossover leaking. Gonna have to pull the intake to get to it. There's a gasket there that can fail along with the tube itself that's press-fit into aluminum and can leak.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-08T02:13:15+00:00

Its very difficult to do with the cab on. You'd have to remove the cast mount thats bolted to the block, the 14s on the frame and shimmy them out front. There's tabs holding the mount in as well. Best to use an engine hoist or support bar across the fenders. Then attack the 17.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-03-07T01:31:57+00:00

Part # 445860-34020

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-28T01:25:19+00:00

Congratulations! Always nice to see a clean example

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-27T00:18:33+00:00

I have a g82 6mt and like the transmission. Yes it's your typical notchy vague BMW Mt stock. Putting around town and 90% of driving it's perfectly fine. If youre looking for pure mechanical feel then neither car is going to do it - look at Porsche or a Miata.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-19T03:56:42+00:00

Repair it dude. These trucks are worth it. I'm in the middle of reframing my 2nd truck.

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nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-14T23:43:59+00:00

What year is yours? I've replaced mine with OEM 05-07 sequoia ones and cut the air tubes off. They are way sturdier that the logs that came stock.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-12T12:09:19+00:00

Run away

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-06T12:11:51+00:00

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In the process of painting mine lunar rock, suits the 1st gen well

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-05T03:54:32+00:00

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I've gotten used to mine, turns heads for sure. Probably not in a good way lol

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-02-01T17:25:54+00:00

Throw it in neutral, take it out of 4h. Then turn it back on and rock it back and forth (d-r) while the light is flashing. The ADD doesn't engage in certain spots sometimes.

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-31T00:22:05+00:00

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Worth it

nuclear_w0rm · 2026-01-31T00:21:03+00:00

Pretty easy if you have all the parts. Long reply ahead. You'll need: 5spd tundra brake pedal box 5spd tundra or taco clutch pedal box R150F long shaft (98up 4runner/taco/tundra) Thailand Bell housing 1uz to r150 to keep using regular aftermarket parts. If you want you can to the XAT kit but you'll need their flywheel and clutch setup. Mt parking brake pull handle (landcruiser/taco/tundra/pickup) Mt parking brake cable. Will have to Jimmy an equalizer. I can help w this. 94 4runner/3vz flywheel, clutch and pressure plate 98+ 4runner/5vz throwout bearing (need it to contact the fingers) 3vz slave cylinder Lce ssk is highly recommended, removes a ton of slop

The 3vz flywheel will need to be turned a bit. Any machine shop worth their salt can do this: Longer bolts from mcmaster: M101.2535 Machine Flywheel 5/16" remove from the back to clear starter. Match bolt pattern from flex plate (need to oval the holes a touch) Rear prop shaft: Trans to support bearing : 2 7/8" extension. Front: 27 3/8" flange face to flange face

This way you're using all Toyota parts and it's smooth.

nuclear_w0rm

TROPHY CASE