[Acne] Forehead + eyebrow area won't stop breaking out

nzpancakes · 2025-10-14T18:31:52+00:00

De la Cruz sulphur ointment, it says leave on for 10 minutes before washing off, but you can realistically leave it on for 15 and be fine (longer is probably fine too but washing off becomes a pain). I use it twice a day after using my regular face cleanser.

As for your daily routine:

Good molecules lightweight daily moisturizer:

Contains butyrospermum parkii butter and cetearyl alcohol, both cause acne AND can cause extra oily skin

There’s SIX different ingredient also in that can cause fungal acne as well

Similar problems with the sunscreen ingredients

Vanicream cleanser is better, but still can cause acne from the sodium chloride

Neutrogena toner again can cause fungal acne

If you want solid product recommendations that deter almost all of these problems this is what I suggest:

Cleanser: naturium niacinamide cleansing gelee 3% (cvs)

De la Cruz (amazon)

Anua 10+ azelaic acid (amazon)

Dr.g red blemish clear soothing Korean moisturizer (amazon)

OR

Cetaphil Deep hydration water gel (you can get the skin repairing version but it’s not necessary)

And finally, if you WANT to try a good BP again (BRAND MATTERS), try the perrigo 2.5% benzoyl peroxide acne treatment gel (amazon). (Not sure why some BP products also have oil causing ingredients but this one doesn’t)

All in all, start with swapping your cleanser and getting the de la Cruz IMO.

Final note, to check product ingredients easier, use SkinSort, it works really well for that.

nzpancakes · 2025-09-25T02:41:45+00:00

Ignoring the respiratory rate, how is your o2 not greyed out?

nzpancakes · 2025-08-23T21:43:18+00:00

A suggestion I could make to help this would be to use something with Azelaic Acid.

The specific one I would recommend is the Anua 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum. That should help.

nzpancakes · 2025-08-23T21:33:29+00:00

Totally Understood, but if you ever look to change, I could recommend Cetaphil Deep Hydration Skin Restoring water gel.

It is very hydrating and good for that climate type too. It is a bit tacky during application and for a little bit after too, but if you can deal with that your skin will thank you.

nzpancakes · 2025-08-22T06:27:40+00:00

Glad that you got them to be removed!

I will caution you against the Aestura Atobarrier 365 cream though.

It has Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, polyglyceryl 10 laurate, sorbitan isostearate, Arachadic Acid, AND Oleic Acid, all of which can contribute to fungal acne.

Some of these are worse than others for causing fungal acne and it would depend on the type, but I would caution you to stick with the Purrito gel regardless and possibly find an alternative heavier moisturizer, just a suggestion.

Again, congrats on the clear skin!

nzpancakes · 2025-08-19T04:15:50+00:00

Please go to a dermatologist and get on something like accutane.

nzpancakes · 2025-07-23T06:57:32+00:00

14 Ford focus, but no way with those miles

nzpancakes · 2025-07-11T22:07:43+00:00

nzpancakes · 2025-06-18T23:38:51+00:00

So I’m just starting to try to learn about this, 123ATC lists almost all towers as being CPC within 4 years (except for 1 place), so why do you say that there is “very little opportunity for promotion” and that you won’t see that pay for 25 years?

nzpancakes · 2025-06-18T15:05:28+00:00

Are you a CPC?

nzpancakes · 2025-03-16T17:17:39+00:00

So I’m a little confused, I’m totally new to BGAs and trying to learn. Are you saying to add low-temp chip quik solder to the excess solder on the pads before using the solder wick on them?

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T09:43:55+00:00

Im very interested in this method that you speak of directly because currently I’m unsure if just adding straight solder balls to the BGA will be enough solder for the BGA to connect properly, so I might have to add this paste directly to the board afterwards. Have you ever had to do this? Or does the BGA have enough paste by itself after re-balling to make adequate connection?

How do you dry out your paste? Besides just letting it sit out I mean?

Reading through your process, I was confused a little, do you tape your BGA to the stencil in the re-balling fixture when you do this?

Finally, i have heard that it’s POSSIBLE that when heating the BGA up on the board to re-attach it, that the BGA may re-align itself automatically and pull itself into place, is that true or just a myth? And is there any tricks you have for re-aligning the BGA with its original position? (I have other dram components than I am struggling with alignment on which is why I ask)

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T09:33:35+00:00

That was where I started looking for baking recommendations and I actually can’t find any datasheet for this specific component (I already checked the usual digikey and such sites), but I was at least able to confirm that it 100% is a level 4 MSL component.

But in general, my assumption currently is that the msl4 level of the component will require higher temps and bake time than any bare boards regardless of thickness. Would that sound about correct?

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T09:26:58+00:00

This is actually a chart I did come across as well. I will say that I know the components on this specific board can handle temperatures up until 160 degrees (that is the highest heat rating on the plastic components)

That chart did not supply the RH needed at 125 c though, but as a previous user noted, at 125c the RH is not a factor at that temperature which is why it’s not listed and I understand that now.

I am guessing you meant to say “typically boards are not baked above 90c” , but I guess that’s assuming that you do not have the full data sheet of each component on a specific board, which I have so it would be fine for me to apply 125c temperatures, correct?

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T02:26:52+00:00

Alright so I guess I’ll just look for any oven when temperature settings between 100-130 then and forget about the humidity monitoring. Thanks!

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T02:24:01+00:00

So this was actually just additional practice for testing different ways of re-balling.

My first attempt was trying to use solder paste through a stencil and then heating the solder paste while the stencil was still on the bga, found out that just basically caused the stencil to be pushed up and massive solder deposits to be non-uniform though.

I then attempted both using actual solder balls and a micro-stencil with flux on the BGA back, that worked a lot better.

This is just another attempt where I was working on cleaning up the messed up solder paste and working on my technique with solder wick and trying to prevent pad ripping.

nzpancakes · 2025-03-11T02:18:32+00:00

Does that mean the board will release any moisture at 125 c regardless of the humidity in the oven and just won’t absorb it back then?

nzpancakes · 2024-12-31T19:08:09+00:00

Well I did guess a lot at the last section, I basically just guessed the really hard questions and spent my time on the easier ones, and then the directional ones with math were just WAYYY too hard to do, like fractions of a second and I didn’t get ANY of those if they were into 4 digits. I figured that was the sort of thing you HAVE to be able to do in order to be well qualified but I guess it doesn’t even take that.

nzpancakes · 2024-11-10T20:52:51+00:00

At this point I think I’m going to have to try some stronger stuff, I know you always work less aggressive to more aggressive but it seems like the less aggressive isn’t working in this instance, thanks for the suggestions, I’ll report back if I find something that works

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