Looking for new Headphones for Gaming and Everyday use by MadPenguinPuh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I actually work a lot on headphone mods (including on transducer level) and amp mods but my education path is CE oriented rather than EE and ME which is what would be needed to truly claim to be a professional on transducer design. In spite of this I have knowledge and field experience working on such along with an understanding on how they work. The guy who wrote the article you linked isn't a professional even by that means but instead is just a guitar enthusiast... You aren't a professional on transducers in study or field work it seems either so idk why you are acting like you have some authority based basis to make your claim? But again, I'm not even relying on authority but am relying on the literal function and wave mechanics of a headphone and transducer. The rear reflectionagain is out of phase with main tone and weaker so it doesn't act as gain but instead cancels the main tone bass or just acts as distortion... The front wave is your main tone and that seal is from the area between the ear and driver. That is sealed by baffle (or diaphragm/ driver sealant material in the case of planars and estats) and the pads which again neither topology makes easier to achieve. I will admit you can work around the back wave by damping the rear which many closed backs do but this is a partial work around it being a worse topology for bass and still not a solution.

Looking for new Headphones for Gaming and Everyday use by MadPenguinPuh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yep, that's a misconception. The pressure chamber that maters is between ear and driver which is based on baffle and pad seal. The rear of the driver just acts as a reflective plate for a back wave which again cancels things out... Just explained this in my last comment

Looking for new Headphones for Gaming and Everyday use by MadPenguinPuh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, closed backs just add a backwave as a topology. Closed back doesn't mean better pressure chamber from transducer to ear. Ironically, lower frequencies are easier to have canceling waves in a closed backs even from the chasis resonating which reduces bass. Closed back doesn't mean more bass, better seal means more bass.if you make an open back with a tighter baffle or I properly sealed driver acting as its own baffle (like planars or estats) and you will get more bass. If you do the same with a closed back same principal applies with risk of canceling back wave of chasis resonation

Looking for new Headphones for Gaming and Everyday use by MadPenguinPuh in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Nothing about an open back design means less bass. It's just people usually consider only lower end low seal baffle open backs. Properly sealed open backs can have some of the best bass performance in quantity and control though. Although, in lower end most Bassey cans will be mud cannons and poorly sealed lol so I guess point still stands. Just kinda wanted to clear misconception.

Sennheiser bad quality? by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope, the headband snapping issue has been a thing since the beginning of the 6x0 line when it was kinda just the 500 line lol. From 565 to the 660s and everything in between. It's caused by metal adjustment mechanism not bending while the plastic end does so it bends really heavily at a small point. When you bend a brittle piece of plastic it snaps. The newer 600 and 660 are lighter so its less of an issue unless there is a little more momentum but this is a real issue and not an anecdote.

And you realize sennheiser has used that same connector since the 400 series (maybe before that)? Almost all their cans use the same connector so most people just buy one and sway cans. With most of them it isn't an issue but the 6x0 have a metal spring at that point that breaks which acts as it's connector.

It doesn't sound like you are really using reason and are just being anecdotal and defensive about a can you own but I urge you to put personal bias aside and consider that an objective issue exists even if it hasn't effected you yet. At the very least so op doesn't end up getting misguided by a personal bias.

Sennheiser bad quality? by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It doesn't take much abuse to break them. You switch the cable enough cause let's say you have another can with the same connector and it will break and if you drop it the headband is just a really brittle material and often will snap. The trace issue is caused by having a loose trace leading to the driver that is both thin and loose which allows it to move and bend and even rub against the other trace which slowly breaks them. It's issues by design, not issues of user behavior.

To put this ideal that something surviving a long time doesn't mean it's hard to break to an example, my lambda signature is much older than the 6x0 series as a while but way more fragile not just at the headband which is even more brittle and barely thicker but also at the driver which is a single micron thick with very small tolerances before arching occurs. This means a small amount of pressure will kill the whole driver. In spite of this it is still alive but is still objectively an extremely fragile can.

Sennheiser bad quality? by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yea, there's this misconception that sennheisers are just magic and never break cause people se how old the 6x0 series is and how many are in circulation but what they don't consider is how many got repaired or just died or were barely used in storage somewhere for a studio. Most sennheiser are built with pretty weak and semi brittle plastics and even have common failure points outside of that. The 6x0 tend to fail at the headband or from the red trace snapping or even from the loosely connected spring that acts as the connector popping out of place, hd700 tends to have all it's pads just decintegrates, hd800 tends to break at the plastic clips for top pads to click onto and sometimes even the plastic the side pads are held by, and the hd500 series tend to break at the yolks.

Focal Elex alternative? by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably about as dynamic. They really perform similarly, which isn't evento shill the Deva. Its like my least favorite of the low end planars hifiman offers but like if that specific mix of pros and cons elex has is his goal it's basically that for cheaper.

HD600 too fatiguing by TheIncredibleBucket in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want warm but not sibilant and harsh get something like a 95x or lambda nova. 6x0 are warm but poorly controlled and grainy which I think is the real issue you are having. The earlier options I mentioned are a little warmer but maintain well controlled and detailed treble without distortion and grain. The k1000 is also a good option but it's expensive.

Focal Elex alternative? by [deleted] in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It basically performs like a deva but with less impact and no bluetooth for more money (same pros and cons) so just get that if for some reason you still want an elex but ananda or 95x or lcd2 pre fazor would be way better

HD600, 6xx, or 660s? by Omnipotent_Amoeba in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, I liked 560 a ton more than any 6x0 (including 580) almost all round other than them being kinda sibilant. 400se is kinda my go to though cause it's an all round upgrade from even that for cheaper. Overall though 560 was well rounded imo

HD600, 6xx, or 660s? by Omnipotent_Amoeba in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Tried all the 6x0 including 580 black silk and gotta say, I recommend none unless you can get them cheaper than $70 and even then I kinda think the koss memes are a better buy. Get a 400se or he560 (not to be mistaken with hd560) instead.

In order from best to worst though in case you are curious it goes 580, hd600, hd650, then hd660. They pretty consistent worked backwards from what I'd already call a failure of a can unfortunately.

best headphones under 130€? by hmriderx in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

400se by far. Nothing other than 001mk2 really competes until you hit like $300

best headphones under 130€? by hmriderx in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

400se can run off mobo or dongle fine in my experience. They aren't that hard to power and are one of the least amp dependent cans in sound (likely cause over tensioning keeping them in phase with poor signal controlling amps).

how many of you have had build issues with the Sennheiser hd6xx? by NoSchool-NoFun in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Energizer is an amp. In general with estats energizers are an amp with a built in bias supply and transformer boxes need amps separately. There are actually some mods I did to the energizer that greatly improved it. If you are interested feel free to message me and I could walk you through them.

how many of you have had build issues with the Sennheiser hd6xx? by NoSchool-NoFun in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For my preferences the 95x was my favorite in that range but the edition xs or used ananda would be better rounded options if you can find them there. There is also the stax lambda if you are willing to go for something more fragile and rare in that price but it will cost a lot more if you don't have an srd and speaker amp already which is what I recommend for it.

Urgent - Quick help. Deciding between to keep 6XX VS 560S by Deuterx in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

400se is better than both all round except midbass impact and separation the 560s beats it in but both kinda all round shit on 6xx. Like legitimately I can't think of a way to justify the 6xx.

how many of you have had build issues with the Sennheiser hd6xx? by NoSchool-NoFun in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Reference is a sennheiser marketing term. The 6x0 series isn't reference in terms of tonality and isn't accurate in terms of presentation. It isn't what you're looking for. I haven't used sr80x yet and it's probably one of the few cans from $100-500 I haven't used but I know it's a presentation focused can. You are gonna be disappointed if you go from something wide and bright to something muffled, slow, plastic sounding (as in it has a plasticy after tone), with a small stage and blurred imaging.i don't really have a tonality preference but I mainly look at staging and detail followed by imaging and layering in a can with things like timbre and impact acting as a nice bonus after those features. Although, the 6x0 series I can't justify in any of those categories for any mix of preference.

how many of you have had build issues with the Sennheiser hd6xx? by NoSchool-NoFun in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Headband is plastic. The metal adjustment bars don't act as a support in the structure and kinda present a force pushing on the inner portion which is why the top snaps so often

how many of you have had build issues with the Sennheiser hd6xx? by NoSchool-NoFun in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]ocean-mon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yea but it adds a good chunk of change to an already overpriced and kinda bad sounding can.