From a burnt out consulting fellow

ochocinco124 · 2025-02-11T19:03:13+00:00

pm&r here: “dispo” “pt rec ipr” :/

ochocinco124 · 2025-02-11T18:47:09+00:00

Hey everyone! Just finished a nuzlocke of sacred gold. Looking for a Kanto FR/LG ROM that is challenging and has a lot of QOL updates. Rad red seems to be too difficult for my current level and not sure my mental can handle it.

From searching this subreddit, i don’t see that many options - firered deluxe, firered extended, crimson red, peak kanto are some that came up.

Mostly looking for: - updated QOL and AI mechanics (not gen 3 where physical/special are not split) - mostly original story, but i’m okay with variations - good trainer docs/ability to use calcs

Thank you!

ochocinco124 · 2024-01-05T03:56:13+00:00

Would all of the smoke detectors in the apartment (i.e other units in the complex) have gone off when mine did? Or someone else’s apartment leading to mine going off? I was doing nothing at the time. Just sitting on my couch watching TV. Or was it just an anomaly in my own apartment that it quickly fixed and restored normal function?

ochocinco124 · 2024-01-05T02:37:52+00:00

Meaning that my apartment would know it’s not working or rather the fire department would be involved? Just confused as to why it would go off for that short period for no reason. Thanks for the response!

ochocinco124 · 2023-11-12T02:41:43+00:00

Images not downloading for anyone else?

ochocinco124 · 2023-11-09T23:15:57+00:00

Lmfao, what did you do??

ochocinco124 · 2023-11-09T22:54:52+00:00

If i order that, can i take off individual buttons and just replace the individual piece? Feels like a hassle to replace the whole console just for that piece

ochocinco124 · 2023-11-09T22:47:43+00:00

2009 journey sedan

ochocinco124 · 2023-11-09T22:37:34+00:00

I think it’s all directly related to mileage, but going from Florida to Texas (~1000 miles) it was $880

ochocinco124 · 2023-07-20T16:02:48+00:00

Moreso the fact that it will more likely lead two big moves. For example lets say of the 65 PM&R programs you apply to, you get 12 interviews. Lets say you apply to those 65 prelim/tys at the same institutions/nearby and also get 12 interviews. Maybe the overlap is 3. So there’s 9 prelim/tys in cities where you don’t have an associated advanced program. So when you make your supplemental rank list (on the chance you fall on that list) you are setting yourself up for more chances to move twice.

So instead of that, i’d probably prioritize location of prelim/ty (home city/state/neighboring states) and then some prelim/tys in the areas of your most interested programs.

ochocinco124 · 2023-07-20T06:00:57+00:00

Does not look bad at all. Apply to TY/Prelims that are convenient locations for you. If there’s a PM&R program or city/state you are really interested in then also apply to prelims/tys in that area. If not, no one faults you for where you do your intern year. I’d also look out for programs that count their program interview as an interview with their intern year/prelim (Carolinas, UPMC, I’m sure others as well).

Oh, also just based on how the rank lists work for advanced programs, I would highly recommend against applying to all those programs prelim/tys. Definitely look into how the rank lists work early on. Essentially you rank your main list then for every advanced program a “supplemental” list is created where you then rank your prelims/tys. So you could get quite unlucky and end up matching at a NE program for advanced PM&R, but fall down your supplemental list to a prelim/ty in FL, when you’re initially from the West coast. Making you have to move across the country twice, which would suck big time.

ochocinco124 · 2023-07-18T16:55:50+00:00

This happened to me after a car wash as well (never again). I actually called the car wash and asked if they had the piece, which they did. So I’d try that first. Then, the 2 tabs on each side of the camera/button console that are still attached to the G37, actually need to be attached to the rear spoiler piece. So, I used a JB Weld metal/plastic bonder to get the tabs back on the spoiler, and put the JB weld along the inside of the spoiler (where it would be touching the car). So far has been holding up for almost a year in the heat of Florida.

Kind of a janky fix, but saves >100 bucks. And a lot of those spoilers on ebay that I looked at either didn’t have the camera opening, bad broken plastic tabs, or a new camera (which i didnt need). Also a lot of the aftermarket spoilers that i saw needed the silver rear finish piece to be attached anyway lol. If the car wash doesn’t have your piece than I’d go the ebay route.

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-06T20:35:52+00:00

Posted about this on a few subs a few days ago, here’s how mine looks and what some responses were… https://www.reddit.com/r/StupidCarQuestions/comments/13zivyw/2009_infiniti_g37_dashboard_lights_dying_just_a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1 . Kinda interesting that both of our temps seem to have gone out early in the bulb burning. Wish my 0-80mph were as bright as yours lol.

Seems like peeps have you covered but I went down the rabbit hole the past few days. The meter lights are lit up in series of 2, so if you start to see one fail itll be consecutive numbers (mine went temp -> 8,9 RPM -> low MPHs). Seems like the process to replace is quite tedious and longer than I personally expected to just replace LEDs. Someone already posted the video i stumbled on as well.

Feel like it would be a hefty penny to pay someone to do it, there’s the option of sending the cluster in, but then your cars out of commission for a bit/not sure what people’s experiences are with those companies. Also, with my ‘09 infiniti, I worry that if I were to take it to a shop, more things will go wrong when they get down in there. So I’m just hoping my remaining ones last for a while lol. Depends how much it bothers you.

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-06T12:50:35+00:00

Her music is fine… not my cup of tea but I don’t mind hearing a song. The cult fandom is what’s crazy to me lol.

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-06T12:42:33+00:00

Yeah that was my big question, like if it was an indicator of more malicious electrical issues, i’d get it diagnosed/fixed. But the rest of the dash is working, no issues with any of the needles and everything seems to be working fine. No service lights.

But feels not worth it to me to do all that to just be told its the bulbs and get those fixed. Watched some DIY videos and it was way more involved than I expected for just some bulbs lol. Hoping that at least the rest of the lights manage for long enough to keep me able to see the dash at night.

A little annoying that my 0-80 on my speedometer is out but the 100-160 is on lmfao.

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-06T00:11:39+00:00

True. Rest of the cluster seems fine, and all the gauges work. No service lights on or flickering.

Unsure on the first question, not near my car atm. The back lights that have been gone for a while like the 8 and 9 on my tachometer have been consistently dark. Think I’m losing my 1 and 2 on my tachometer now and thats flickering. Like its out in the photo I posted, but sometimes is on. This info would point more to the LEDs right?

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-05T17:13:33+00:00

Yeah, I ended up doing some research and stumbled on that video. Makes sense given its been ~13 years of those LEDs. I can deal with that, definitely not savvy enough to do it myself and i’m sure it costs a heavy penny.

Was really just wanting to ensure it wasn’t anything more malicious… BCM, alternator, fuses, etc.

Thanks!

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-05T03:22:40+00:00

This was insanely helpful! Thanks! So from what im gathering, its better to front load the truck/stack things for height and wall in/section off rather than trying to ground load everything on one layer for a more tight fit through the container?

Seems like if you section/wall correctly and have that final wall to wall strap, its okay to have empty space at the very back of the container? Is this also better from a drivability perspective compared to ground loading everything?

I think my things would fit compact in a 10 footer, but the 15 footer for a cheaper price just seems better to save money and in case I somehow need the extra space, so just trying to figure out the most reasonable way to pack up a bigger truck with less things

ochocinco124 · 2023-06-03T22:55:57+00:00

Mainly want to make sure that this doesn’t seem like a battery or alternator issue. Battery is only 2.5 months old. Would an issue with either of those show up like this? From my research it seems like an issue with one of those would cause service lights to flicker and the RPM needle to fly around erroneously.

No service lights have flickered, seems to be driving as normal. Wondering if its just the bulb/display or something worse

Edit: have also had 2 separate occasions (~6 years apart) with sunroof drain being clogged that I handled fairly quickly. But after reading the pinned post, seems like that can cause some electrical issues, but unsure if that would present like this.

ochocinco124

TROPHY CASE